serves 6
Artichokes are an ancient food in Greece, and today a few places around the country are renowned for their cultivation. Tinos, an island in the Cyclades that has seen a mini food renaissance in the last few years, is one of them. This recipe is inspired by a similar dish that was born in local tavernas on the island.
6 tablespoons (¾ stick / 85 g) unsalted butter, plus 1 tablespoon for the baking dish
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
3 cups (720 ml) warm milk
½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
16 large fresh or thawed frozen artichoke hearts
¼ cup (60 ml) extra-virgin Greek olive oil
2 large red onions, very finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
1½ pounds (680 g) country bread, crusts removed, cut into ½-inch-thick (1.5 cm) slices
1½ cups (150 g) grated graviera or other mild, yellow sheep’s-milk cheese
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
In a medium saucepan, melt 3 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat until bubbling. Add the flour and whisk for about 5 minutes, until the mixture turns lightly golden. Pour in the milk and whisk continuously over medium heat until the mixture thickens. Season with the nutmeg and salt and pepper to taste. Remove the béchamel from the heat, cover with a cloth to keep warm, and set aside.
Bring a medium pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Add the artichoke hearts and blanch for 3 to 4 minutes, until soft. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. When cool enough to handle, coarsely chop the artichokes.
In a heavy medium skillet, heat the remaining 3 tablespoons butter with the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until wilted and lightly colored, about 12 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook all together, stirring, for about 1 minute.
Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Butter a 9 x 13-inch (23 x 32 cm) baking dish.
Place as many slices of bread as will fit in one layer in the buttered baking dish. Spoon half the onions evenly over the bread. Sprinkle with 3 tablespoons of the cheese, a little thyme, and salt and pepper. Spread half the artichokes on top and sprinkle with half the remaining cheese. Gently press the remaining bread slices over the artichokes in one layer. Spread the remaining onions, cheese, thyme, and artichokes, in the same order, over the top, finishing with a layer of artichokes and cheese. Pour the béchamel over everything, spreading it evenly. Bake until the béchamel is set and golden, about 40 minutes. Remove from the oven, let cool slightly, and serve.
Most Greek recipes call for just the artichoke heart. Greeks generally don’t eat the leaves.
Squeeze the juice of 1 lemon into a bowl filled with 3 cups (720 ml) water; reserve the squeezed lemon rinds. Snap off the tough leaves around the base and up through the middle of the artichoke. Trim off any remaining tough leaves. Place the artichoke on its side and, using a sharp serrated knife, cut through the artichoke right where the leaves indent slightly and the base and inner “heart” begin. Use a teaspoon to scrape out the purple, fuzzy choke. Rub the artichoke with a reserved lemon rind and place it in the acidulated water.
To blanch, of needed: Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Fill a large bowl with ice and water. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the artichokes to the boiling water and blanch for 1 minute. Remove and drop immediately into the ice water to stop the cooking.
