Special thanks to my mother, who actually said, “You’re going to do it on a motorcycle, aren’t you?” Also to Clara Jeffery, Ben Metcalf, and Lewis Lapham, to Dawn Davis and Marty Asher, to Richard Parks, and to Annie Dillard.
Regular thanks to Mr. Rojo and the pineapple people, to Isabel, Pascal, and Julie of Moquegua, Tito, and whoever it was that pulled me out of that ditch.
Much of this manuscript was written while on a Harper’s-McLaughlin teaching fellowship at the UC Berkeley Graduate School of Journalism; I am also indebted to the Eight Oaks Foundation for the support which made this project possible.