The term moonshine originated in Great Britain and was a reference to doing something illegal and uncouth at night. In ye olden days, jars were marked “XXX,” which meant the product was distilled three times and properly strong, and most likely contributed to the many nicknames attributed to moonshine over the years: White Lightning, Mountain Dew, Popskull, Happy Sally, Homebrew, Hooch, Snail Venom, and, naturally, ’Shine.

West Virginia

Not many people know a lot about West Virginia, but really, the state’s identity bridges connections to many neighboring states. How’s this for history: The Mountain State is the southernmost northern state; Mother’s Day was first recognized in West Virginia at a church in Grafton on May 10, 1908; in 1949, residents of Mole Hill changed their town’s name to Mountain (get it?); and the first state sales tax went into effect here in July 1921. History abounds!

The Golden Delicious apple was created in Clay County. The first brick street laid in the world went down on Summers Street in Charleston on October 23, 1870. West Virginia also holds the record for the most towns named after cities in other countries: Athens, Berlin, Cairo, Calcutta, Geneva, Shanghai, and so on. And due to the healthy number of Italian Americans working in the coal mines of Clarksburg back in the day, the pepperoni roll is a source of state pride after all these years.

As for traditions, whenever the song “Country Roads” comes on in a bar, every customer will belt the lyrics. Even if they claim to be sick of the song. It definitely seems to be the statewide “last call/send-off” song. Never fails.

—Tyler Davidson, bar director, General Lewis Inn (Lewisburg)

The West Virginia state motto is “Mountaineers are always free.” If only that were true for the famous pepperoni rolls, too, we would all probably be singing a little John Denver as a little “free” karaoke. Mr. Denver is responsible for the state’s famous song “Take Me Home, Country Roads,” a celebratory sing-along.

West Virginia is nearly 75 percent forest, so there are plenty of places to hide and cook up a nice little batch of moonshine, if you’re picking up what I’m putting down. People attend West Virginia University college football Saturday tailgates with their own legit ’shine, and provide small samples of their homemade hooch to anyone seeking a sip of otherworldly potables, some good, some god-awful, but all of it original and untaxed by our eagle-eyed US government. “On football Saturdays,” says Tin 202’s Josh Graham, “the entire city of Morgantown is out and in full force.” West Virginia locals take pride in having a little moonshine tucked away whenever someone is looking to toast an occasion, and the rule of thumb is: You know where to get it simply by playing it cool.

WEST VIRGINIA’S OLDEST BAR

NORTH END TAVERN

Parkersburg, 1899

More pub and brewery than cocktail haunt, the North End Tavern & Brewery has been making people happy long enough to be considered a destination spot for its famous burger, known as the “N.E.T.” burger, and its friendly, casual atmosphere. The brewery has been around since 1997, and its house classic is Roedy’s Red amber ale, named after the owner.

WEST VIRGINIA BEVERAGE

MOONSHINE

Moonshine is made from a combination of field corn, sugar, yeast, and soft creek water (bonus points if it’s from the foothills of one of the many mountains surrounding Summersville). Basically, it’s unaged whiskey. The strongest proof is “white lightnin’,” which typically registers as 170 proof and higher. Mountaineers make a wide variety of flavors, such as apple pie, coffee, peach, black cherry, blueberry, Cinnamon Toast Crunch, and many more, but no matter the flavor, it needs to be served in a Mason jar, a tradition that must remain unbroken, like the dribble on your chin after sipping.

WEST VIRGINIA COCKTAIL BAR

TIN 202

Morgantown

What is wrong with a cocktail menu featuring all Matthew McConaughey catchphrases from Dazed and Confused? This is a trick question. The answer is an emphatic nothing. Tin 202 is located on the aptly named Pleasant Street and serves Morgantown from the space of a former pharmacy and soda fountain, continuing the longstanding tradition of community-focused small business. It has been widely recognized for its charms, including being named Best Bar in West Virginia by Southern Living.

Every American bar needs a personable, hardworking, and knowledgeable bartender, and it helps if every bartender knows how to make a proper Old Fashioned, Manhattan, and Gin Martini. My personal favorite cocktail to make is a Vieux Carre.

—Josh Graham, Tin 202 (Morgantown)

WEST VIRGINIA SPIRIT

SMOOTH AMBLER

Maxwelton

Opened in Greenbrier County in 2009, Smooth Ambler bills itself as “Appalachian Whiskey” and specializes in quality whiskey aged in well-selected barrels. One of the signature spirits is Contradiction, a blended bourbon with four different grains and combined with young wheated bourbon and mature rye bourbon, which is a highly unusual pairing. But my favorite might be Old Scout, a seven-year bourbon with a higher rye profile, lovely cinnamon and gingerbread notes on the nose, with a round, caramel-rich, pleasant peanut-y finish. Smooth—and definitely capable of making one amble after a few sips.

BAR SNACK

Moonshiners doctored their automobile engines to get a little faster during the days of Prohibition, which led to friendly (and unfriendly) little competitions with other moonshiners and Johnny Law, and that behavior eventually led to the creation of the National Association for Stock Car Auto Racing, or NASCAR.

WEST VIRGINIA BUCKET LIST BAR

GREENBRIER RESORT

White Sulphur Springs

Visiting the Greenbrier is very much taking a turn-back-the-clock experience. Operating since 1778, Greenbrier offers multiple professional golf courses, a casino, designer boutiques, countless banquette rooms, and a spa, and that’s just in the lobby! But seriously, the unique cocktail history of the Greenbrier actually points to the Mint Julep having been created in the famous Old White Tavern, which would later become the Greenbrier, in the early 1800s. The resort was a summer travel destination for southern gentry, and the lobby bar was the place to see and be seen—and have a very refreshing drink, as it were.

This is going to sound very “West Virginian,” but at my annual family reunion, after all the kids go to sleep in their tents, all the adults will stand in a big circle and pass around jars of moonshine. Just talking and catching up with everyone. It is a family tradition I always look forward to.

—Tyler Davidson, bar director, General Lewis Inn (Lewisburg)

THE INDUSTRY STANDARD

Josh Graham, Tin 202, Morgantown

Josh Graham entered the Industry Standard in a cocktail competition through the Beehive Bitters Co. on Instagram and won with this lively libation. It is featured on Tin 202’s menu as well. “Easy to make, simple ingredients, and super tasty,” Josh says. Feel free to give this a little dash of Beehive’s spiced orange bitters and see where that improvisational dance move takes you.

1½ ounces Pikesville rye

¾ ounce Aperol

½ ounce honey syrup (recipe follows)

½ ounce fresh lemon juice Garnish: fresh rosemary sprig

Shake the ingredients with ice until chilled; fine strain into a chilled coupe glass. Express the rosemary sprig by slapping it over your hand a few times to release more of its scent and then use it to garnish the drink.

Honey Syrup

Makes 1 cup

½ cup honey

½ cup water

Combine the ingredients in a nonreactive container and store in the refrigerator for up to 10 days.

In Morgantown, there is the best dive bar around. Gene’s is the oldest bar in the city and it is my Cheers. Everyone knows most everybody else and it is a very welcoming place with cheap beer and amazing hot dogs. There is also a separate pool room downstairs if you want to get away from the noise and just shoot a few games.

—Josh Graham, Tin 202 (Morgantown)

CHIMNEY SWEEP

Tyler Davidson, General Lewis Inn, Lewisburg

The General Lewis Inn is a historic space on a hilltop just outside of the village of Lewisburg. Tyler, the head bartender, creates impressive drinks by using homemade tinctures, bitters, and infusions. The house Mint Juleps are made with the mint growing in the back of the hotel and incorporate local honey from hives kept nearby, and the bar itself was repurposed from the original front desk. One taste of a frosty Julep in the summer, and of this smoky, warming concoction in the winter, and you’ll want to stay at the General Lewis Inn year-round.

1 ounce Casamigos mezcal

¾ ounce Courvoisier Cognac

½ ounce Aperol

½ ounce sweet vermouth (Tyler’s is homemade, but you can use your favorite)

1 teaspoon maraschino liqueur

2 dashes grapefruit bitters (again, homemade, but you can use a commercial version)

Garnishes: smoking cedar stick (3 to 4 inches) and orange peel

Fernet-Branca amaro atomizer (optional; you can add 1 or 2 drops on top of the drink if an atomizer is unavailable)

Stir the mezcal, Cognac, Aperol, vermouth, maraschino liqueur, and bitters with ice until chilled; strain into a chilled coupe glass. Light the cedar stick on fire just before serving and then blow out the flame so it smokes. Serve on the side of the cocktail, on a fire-resistant surface, and garnish the drink with the orange peel. Atomize (or add 1 or 2 drops) Fernet-Branca over the cocktail.