Grilled Chicken Quarters, Your Way

Choose either a simple mix of herbs, white wine, and lemon juice modeled after a classic French tarragon roast chicken, or a more exotic blend of yogurt, garlic, and warm spices based on a northern Indian tradition.

PREP: 15 minutes plus marinating

GRILL: 20 to 30 minutes

MAKES: 4 main-dish servings

Tandoori Marinade or Tarragon Marinade (right)

1 chicken (about 3½ pounds), cut into quarters, skin removed from all but wings

1. Prepare marinade of your choice as directed.

2. Pour marinade into large zip-tight plastic bag; add chicken, turning to coat. Seal bag, pressing out excess air. Place bag on plate; let stand 15 minutes at room temperature or refrigerate 1 hour (or up to 24 hours), turning bag over occasionally.

3. Prepare outdoor grill for covered direct grilling over medium heat.

4. Remove chicken from bag; discard marinade. Place chicken on hot grill rack. Cover grill and cook chicken, turning once and transferring pieces to platter as they are done, until juices run clear when thickest part of chicken is pierced with tip of knife, 20 to 30 minutes.

TANDOORI MARINADE: In blender at medium speed, puree until smooth 1 (8-ounce) container plain low-fat yogurt; 3 tablespoons coarsely chopped, peeled fresh ginger; 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice; 1 tablespoon ground coriander; 2 teaspoons ground cumin; 1 teaspoon salt; ¼ teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne); and 2 garlic cloves, cut up.

EACH SERVING TANDOORI CHICKEN: About 285 calories, 41g protein, 3g carbohydrate, 11g total fat (3g saturated), 123mg cholesterol, 430mg sodium

TARRAGON MARINADE: In bowl, stir 2 small shallots, minced (¼ cup); 1 cup dry white wine; 2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon; 1 teaspoon freshly grated lemon peel; ½ teaspoon salt; and ¼ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper.

EACH SERVING TARRAGON CHICKEN: About 150 calories, 27g protein, 1g carbohydrate, 3g total fat (1g saturated), 72mg cholesterol, 210mg sodium