TRAVELING
TRAVELING |
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Spain has a number of international airports operated by AENA (the Spanish Airports and Air Navigation). Apart from the major airports of Madrid (Barajas) and Barcelona (El Prat), there are smaller ones serving the tourist resorts along the Mediterranean coast, such as the Elche–Alicante airport (in the Costa Blanca), and the ones of the Balear and Canary Islands. The national airline, Iberia (and its subsidiaries Vueling and Air Nostrum), operates a network of internal flights. The puente aéreo (air bridge) that links Madrid and Barcelona is the most important internal route, although in recent years it is being overtaken by high-speed railways. Barajas handles over twenty-seven million passengers a year; El Prat more than thirty-seven million.
Spaniards drive quickly and aggressively, and have little patience. You need to be constantly alert, and use your mirrors and indicators all the time. You are expected to show confidence and know where you are going; people will sound their horns or signal if you hesitate for even a moment.
Buy a good map or a GPS and try to work out your route before leaving home. In some areas towns will have their names in the local language. This can be confusing in the Basque Country, for example, where San Sebastian becomes Donostia and Vitoria is Gasteiz.
Legal Requirements
To drive a car in Spain you must carry with you your passport, or some other form of ID, your current driver’s license, valid insurance papers, and the vehicle registration document. You should also have two red warning triangles, a reflective vest, a first aid kit, a fire extinguisher, and a set of spare bulbs. For emergencies, many Spaniards also carry a blanket and antifreeze in winter.
The use of seat belts by all vehicle passengers is compulsory The police are more vigilant than they used to be about violations of traffic laws, and on-the-spot fines are compulsory for non-residents. Other fines are calculated according to the severity of the offense and the opinion of the police officer.
Mind the speed radars. Until 2015 they used to be hidden to catch drivers by surprise, but now it is possible to check their exact location. Yet, there are many mobile police controls at key points and on special days.
The legal drunk driving limit is 0.05 percent (0.5 grams per litre of blood and 0.25 milligrams per litre of air), and Breathalyzer tests are frequent all over Spain. Make sure you are aware of speed restrictions—there are many speed traps.
It is illegal to use a cell phone while driving, although you can pull over to the side of the road for an emergency call or dial hands free. Motorists are required to use a hands-free kit, without earphone connections, fitted to the power supply of the car. Those who break the law face fines of up to 300 euros (around US $300).
The Roads
There are all types of roads, from fast modern highways to narrow, country roads. They are:
Autopistas, A or E (expressways). These are often toll roads. Speed limit, 75 mph (120 kmph).
Autovias (divided highways, or dual carriageways). These sometimes have only a central barrier, sometimes a wider safety zone. The speed limit is 62 mph (100 kmph).
Carreteras Nacionales, N or CN (main roads). Speed limit, 62 mph (100 kmph) where there is a hard shoulder and 56 mph (90 kmph) where there is none.
Carreteras Comarcales, C (country roads). Speed limit, 56 mph (90 kmph).
Carreteras Locales (by-roads). Speed limit, 56 mph (90 kmph).
The speed limit in towns is 31 mph (50 kmph).
Toll Roads
These are first-rate, and have service stations approximately every 25 miles (40 km). The tolls are expensive, and are usually calculated according to distance traveled. You pay as you leave the toll road, but sometimes you receive a ticket when you enter that is to be handed in when you leave, to calculate what you owe. As you approach the peaje (toll booth), you will be confronted with several lanes. The Telepago lane is for cars that are fitted with a special chip on the windshield. The Automatico lane is for paying by credit card or the exact change. The Manual has an attendant who collects your fee. The lanes to use will display a green arrow (don’t use one showing a red cross).
Parking
As a general rule, you may not park where the sidewalk is painted yellow, or, obviously, where a “no parking” sign is displayed. In major cities it is difficult to find free parking. There are parking spaces marked in blue, green, and orange where you can usually leave the car for up to two hours, and will have to purchase a ticket from a machine or an attendant. Where possible, look for underground parking with security. It can be worth paying more.
You will note, however, that the Spanish often pull in wherever they like, even stopping on crossings and pavements. Do not follow suit.
Penalties for parking infringements vary from town to town. If you park illegally, especially in a foreign car, you will almost certainly become a victim of the grúa, the local tow truck. Getting your car back is a hassle, and very expensive.
• Drive on the right. Give way to traffic from the right, especially at traffic circles.
• Do not turn left if there is a solid line along the middle of the road. This is a major cause of accidents on fast roads. There will be a special lane on the right, signed Cambio de sentido, which will take you on to a side road, and will then cross back over the main road.
• Traffic lights are not always located on the streets. They are sometimes suspended high in the air above the traffic, and can be hard to see in the sun. If you sit at a green light for more than a second, expect hooting from behind you.
• Watch out on pedestrian crossings—especially if you are the pedestrian—as they do not give you the right of way. Always be very careful before stepping out. Cars may not always slow down.
• Flashing headlights can mean anything from “the police are ahead” (if coming toward you) to “get out of my way, you’re driving too slowly” (from behind) or “you forgot to switch on the lights”. Like the horn, they are overused.
• In keeping with their temperament, the Spanish often bend the rules a little. Don’t be surprised when turn signals are not used—people stop wherever they wish, and speed limits are ignored. Do not follow suit.
Mainline Trains
RENFE (Red Nacional de Ferrocarriles Españoles), the national network of Spanish railways, runs most of the nearly 9,500 miles (approx. 15,000 km) of railway in Spain with fares that are among the cheapest in Europe. However, many of the trains are slow and uncomfortable, and do not have air-conditioning.
For medium and long distance journeys, the Intercity (IC), Euromed, Alvia, or TALGO are good options. They are fast, comfortable, and efficient. However, when choosing TALGO, you might be unlucky and get an old-fashioned train that can be quite uncomfortable. These trains will always have a “cafetería” (a small cafe/bar) on board, although the quality is indifferent and prices are high.
AVE (Alta Velocidad España, “Spanish High Velocity”) covers medium and long distance routes connecting Madrid with Seville, Málaga, Barcelona, Valencia, Alicante, Huesca, and Gerona. You can now get from Madrid to Málaga in just over two hours instead of seven, depending on the number of stops.
The better the train, the more expensive the ticket. Check the various options available, as there are discounts for frequent travelers and students. There are information desks at all the big stations. You can also book seats with authorized travel agents, who will charge a small commission but will usually be more helpful and relaxed. Always book a seat on long journeys.
Narrow-Gauge Trains
There are other railway companies in Spain in charge of the narrow-gauge tracks that still serve parts of the country, especially in the north. Some of the trains are used only by tourists, while others are a normal way of local travel. One example is FEVE (Ferrocarril de Vía Estrecha, the narrow-gauge line) running from Alicante to Denia on the Costa Blanca. Built in 1914 to transport fresh produce to Alicante, the fifty-seven-mile (ninety-three-kilometer) route passes colorful fishermen’s houses, deep gorges, and the whitewashed village of Altea.
Other tourist options are available. Some steam trains have been restored and brought back into use. One is the Tren de la Fresa (Strawberry Train) running from Madrid to the palace at Aranjuez, so called because the line was used to take fresh strawberries to the capital. The tradition is carried on to this day, with fresh strawberries being handed out to passengers.
If you want to experience the ultimate train journey, take one of the country’s luxurious specials, built in the 1920s. The Transcantabrico follows the north coast of Spain from San Sebastian to Santiago de Compostela on an eight-day trip. The four coaches include a bar with disk jockey. At night the train parks in stations to allow passengers to get a good night’s sleep.
In the south the Al Andalus Express is a mobile hotel consisting of twelve coaches, which follows a route taking in all the Moorish sites of Andalusia. There are two luxury restaurants, a bar, a lounge, and a games car.
There are many other interesting tourist routes to take by train. See this page for more information.
Throughout Spain there are many good private companies with coaches that are well maintained and offer cheap travel. They often take a more direct route than the trains and some offer an “express” service, which does not mean that the bus is faster, but it will be more comfortable. Most towns will have a bus terminal (estación de autobús). You can buy tickets here, from a travel agent, or online, and sometimes directly from the bus driver. It is recommended, however, to book in advance, especially for weekends and holidays. Long journeys will usually have short refreshment stops, but be sure to get back to the bus punctually. They may not wait for latecomers.
Madrid, Barcelona, and Valencia have bus, metro, and local train networks servicing the cities. The metro is the fastest and most efficient way of moving around, however, in Valencia, the bus service runs efficiently, and as it is a relatively small city you only need a maximum of 45 minutes to cross the city.
Metro (Underground Train Systems)
Madrid has thirteen underground lines, identified by a number and color-coded on maps. The service operates from 6:00 a.m. to 1:30 a.m. Tickets can be bought at all stations, from machines or staffed ticket booths. For multiple journeys buy a Metrobus ticket, valid for ten trips on the Metro or buses.
The service in Barcelona is open from 5:00 a.m. to midnight on Sunday to Thursday and from 5:00 a.m. to 2:00 a.m. on Friday, Saturday, and on the eve of local holidays. Tickets are available for single or multiple journeys. Available tourist options include three-day and five-day tickets with unlimited journeys, or the airbus+bus+metro ticket that allows you to use the various types of transport for unlimited travel and includes a return ticket to the airport. Check the information desks for the various options available.
Buses
Buses run daily from 6:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m., and about every ten to fifteen minutes on most routes. Most bus stops have an electronic board displaying how long you have to wait for the buses to arrive.
There is also a night bus service after midnight called the Buho (owl) in Madrid and the Nitbus (nightbus) in Barcelona. Fewer buses run on Sundays and public holidays.
Bus stops have useful maps of the routes. Raise your arm to stop the bus. There is one standard fare for all journeys. The ticket can be bought once you are on the bus (many of the city buses only accept the correct change), or you can buy a Metrobus ticket, valid for ten trips by bus or metro. These can also be purchased from bus information stands, estancos (tobacconists), and newsstands.
Web Sites and Applications for Smartphones.
Some useful Web sites on the subject of transport appear on this page. Many Spanish cities offer applications for cell phones for all public transport with maps of bus routes and trainlines.
Taxis
There is no shortage of taxis in Spain, and they are quite affordable in comparison with other European countries. They are different colors in different cities (white in Madrid and Valencia; black and yellow in Barcelona), but all have a sign on the roof with a green light that comes on when the taxi is available. There are taxi stands, or you can just stop one in the street. In Barcelona there is also a private taxi company driven by and exclusively for women, easily recognized by the color of their cars: pink. They have meters, but an extra fees is added at night, on weekends, and if you have luggage. If you take a cab at an airport or train station, or this is your destination, there is an initial fixed fee of about 5 or 6 euros. If you are going on a long journey, ask and agree on the approximate price beforehand. As for tipping, people usually give 10 percent, or just round up the fare.
Tourism has brought a great deal of wealth to Spain, but it has also spoiled the Mediterranean coastline, where high-rise hotels and apartment complexes were thrown up without much thought for overall design in the 1960s and 1970s. There is no shortage of accommodation generally, either in these coastal resorts or inland. All large towns and cities have plenty of places to stay, ranging from luxurious hotels to cheap and cheerful hostales. Local tourist offices have lists of what is available. It is always worth making reservations in advance, especially if you are visiting a town during festival time.
Hotels
Hotels in Spain conform to European standards, and range from five stars down, according to the facilities offered. You can be sure you will enjoy the facilities and services promised. They are of all shapes and sizes, and some are traditional, others overtly modern.
One type of hotel peculiar to Spain is the Parador. These started as a group of historic buildings converted into hotels by the government in the 1920s, in part to preserve them, but also to encourage travel to less-visited parts of the country. Today, there are eighty-five such establishments spread throughout Spain. About a third of them are historic buildings, while others are tastefully designed new buildings constructed in styles authentic to their regions, often in picturesque villages or highly scenic locations. The older buildings have all been restored, and all have modern hotel facilities.
Hostales
These abound in all cities, and tourist offices will give you a list. They are cheaper than hotels and also have a “star” rating. They are often housed on two floors of an apartment complex, with a reception area, television room, dining room, and some bedrooms on one floor, and the remainder of the bedrooms on the floor above. Hostales are usually family-run, and the staff may speak only Spanish. Bedrooms will not always have their own bathrooms, and meals are not usually included. A simple breakfast may be available.
Albergues
These are youth hostels and other types of basic lodgings. They have dormitory-style rooms and a dining room and kitchen where you can cook for yourself. They are usually situated near major railway stations in the cities, or in some of the nature reserves scattered throughout Spain. They are cheap, basic, and populated mainly by young backpackers.
Apartamentos
These self-contained apartments can be rented in the coastal regions. They can be anything from rooms furnished with the basics to small villas with a garden area. Prices will depend on size, location, and the time of year. (Apartments for long-term residency are called pisos.)
Another form of accommodation that has become popular is renting a room that is shared with the owners and/or other guests. This is often a more affordable option. You will generally have access to common facilities such as the living room, kitchen and bathroom, and will be provided with towels, sheets and a few toiletries. Some “landlords” are very hospitable and offer tourist information, tips and even breakfast just like bed and breakfasts do. See this page for more information about this service.
Agroturismo
This is a new trend that is very popular in the rural areas. Large houses in the country rent out rooms in an attempt to open up rural areas to tourism, both for locals and foreigners. Agroturismo can also be found in tourist destinations traditionally destinations of sea and sun. Mallorca is a clear example of this diversification.
In Spain you will always need to visit a pharmacy to buy prescription drugs and even those that are available without a prescription Pharmacists can also usually deal with minor health problems, and even provide you with some medication that in other countries may require a prescription, such as antibiotics.
Spain has a very good public health system that works alongside an excellent private sector. Generally, hospitals are of a very high standard and nurses, doctors, and surgeons enjoy a high-level of respect nationally and internationally. This has positioned Spain as one of the favorite “health and medical destinations” for other Europeans. Some European patients come to Spain during their vacation to receive free or very affordable treatments and surgeries that in their home country would be much more expensive. This phenomenon and its accompanying financial loss is often a subject of national debate.
Private travel insurance for all visitors is highly recommended. Nationals of EU countries, however, are entitled to free medical treatment in Spain. The relevant forms must be obtained before leaving your country of origin. For example, form E111, for the British, is available from post office