THE DETAILS OF THE MADELEINE THAT MARCEL PROUST WAXED POETIC ABOUT DON’T EXIST, which means we’re left to reverse-engineer the recipe that inspired such an “exquisite pleasure.” Here’s what we do know: We know Proust was a dunker. We know his madeleine was dry enough to crumble in his mouth. We know its flavor paired well with floral-tasting linden tea. Based on these clues, I’m willing to bet the recipe was similar to the classic French or vanilla madeleines you’ll find here. And though these delicious (yet plain-ish) madeleines may have wowed Proust, plenty of other ingredients can enhance this iconic vanilla sponge cakelet, from cream cheese and poppy seeds to eggnog and Kahlúa.
I USED TO THINK THERE WAS NOTHING LIKE A FLAKY CROISSANT TO MAKE ME LONG TO LIVE IN FRANCE. Then I made these madeleines. The buttery, lemony flavor, combined with the gorgeous seashell shape—ridged on one side, smooth on the other—inspires daydreams of moving to one of Paris’s arrondissements. And here’s the best part: Although on this side of the pond a legitimate-tasting croissant is tough to find (let alone to bake!), these classic French madeleines are a cinch to make and taste divine. Serve them plain or dust them with confectioners’ sugar to jazz them up juste un petit peu.
YIELD: 24 MADELEINES
8 tbsp (1 stick) unsalted butter, plus 4 tbsp for pans (optional)
1 cup all-purpose flour
½ tsp baking powder
3 large eggs
⅔ cup granulated sugar
1 tsp vanilla bean paste or vanilla extract
1½ tsp freshly grated lemon zest
1. Place a rack in the center of the oven and preheat oven to 350°F. Coat two 12-shell pans with baking spray, or melt an additional 4 tablespoons butter and brush in each mold.
2. In a small bowl, whisk together flour and baking powder.
3. Place butter in another bowl and microwave on low power for 1 minute, or until melted. Allow to cool to room temperature.
4. Place eggs and sugar in a 2-quart glass bowl or measuring cup and beat with a hand or stand mixer on medium-high speed until mixture is light and fluffy, about 3 to 5 minutes.
5. Add vanilla and zest and continue beating for another minute or so. Fold in the flour mixture until just blended, then drizzle the cooled butter over the batter and incorporate completely.
6. Using a 1½-inch-diameter scoop or a teaspoon, fill shell molds with batter until almost full. Gently press batter to distribute it evenly.
7. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until madeleines puff up and are golden brown.
8. Remove pans from oven and let cool on a wire rack for 2 to 3 minutes, then invert and tap madeleines onto the rack. You may also use a small offset spatula to remove each one individually. Let cool completely if planning to store and/or freeze. Otherwise, serving madeleines warm from the oven is best!
MADELEINE MUST-HAVE:
MIXER
To get a fine-grained texture, use either a stand mixer or handheld mixer, which will create more air bubbles in the batter than whisking by hand. The aeration will result in a madeleine that resembles a pound cake when baked.
THERE IS NOTHING LIKE PURE VANILLA TO ADD SOME “OOMPH” TO BAKED GOODS. But because using vanilla bean pods can be expensive and time-consuming, I use vanilla bean paste. It packs a powerful flavor punch and can be substituted teaspoon for teaspoon for vanilla.
YIELD: 24 MADELEINES
12 tbsp (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, plus 4 tbsp for pans (optional)
1 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs, room temperature
2 tsp vanilla bean paste (or vanilla extract)
1 cup all-purpose flour
½ cup confectioners’ sugar (for finishing)
1. Place a rack in the center of the oven and preheat oven to 350°F. Coat two 12-shell pans with baking spray, or melt an additional 4 tablespoons butter and brush a little in each mold. Set pans aside.
2. Place butter and sugar in a 2-quart microwavable glass bowl or measuring cup. Microwave on low power for 1 to 2 minutes and then stir with a whisk until smooth. If butter is not melted, microwave for 15-second intervals, stirring after each, until mixture is smooth.
3. Let mixture cool for about 3 to 4 minutes and then add eggs, one at a time, whisking well after each addition until completely blended. Then add vanilla and flour and whisk until thoroughly blended.
4. Using a 1½-inch-diameter scoop or a teaspoon, fill shell molds with batter until almost full. Gently press batter to distribute it evenly.
5. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until madeleines puff up and gently spring back when pressed lightly.
6. Remove pans from the oven and let cool on a wire rack for 2 to 3 minutes, then invert and tap madeleines onto the rack. You may also use a small offset spatula to remove each one individually. Let cool completely.
7. Once cool, dust the fluted sides with confectioners’ sugar.
CREAM CHEESE ADDS A SUBTLE RICHNESS TO CLASSIC MADELEINES. To play around with the flavor even more, substitute orange or lime zest (or a combination of the two) for the lemon zest called for here. I often serve my cream cheese madeleines with fresh raspberries or pots of strawberry preserves as a nod to the fantastic cream cheese and jelly combo.
YIELD: 24 MADELEINES
12 tbsp (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature, plus 4 tbsp for pans (optional)
1 cup granulated sugar
4 oz cream cheese (not whipped), cut into small pieces, room temperature
2 large eggs, room temperature
1 tsp freshly grated lemon zest
2 tsp fresh lemon juice
½ tsp vanilla extract
1 cup all-purpose flour
1. Place a rack in the center of the oven and preheat oven to 325°F. Coat two 12-shell pans with baking spray, or melt an additional 4 tablespoons butter and brush a little in each mold.
2. Place butter and sugar in a 2-quart microwavable glass bowl or measuring cup. Microwave on low power for 1 to 2 minutes and then stir mixture with a whisk until smooth (about 3 to 4 minutes). If butter is not melted, continue to microwave for 15-second intervals, stirring after each, until mixture is smooth.
3. Add cream cheese and whisk for another 3 to 4 minutes, until mixture is smooth. A handheld mixer or old-fashioned egg beater helps speed up the mixing.
4. Add eggs, one at a time, whisking well after each addition until completely blended. Then add zest, lemon juice, and vanilla and whisk until thoroughly blended. Stir flour into batter until just incorporated.
5. Using a 1½-inch-diameter scoop or a teaspoon, fill shell molds with batter until almost full. No need to press the batter; it’ll spread on its own in the oven.
6. Bake for 11 to 13 minutes, until madeleines puff up and edges are lightly browned.
7. Remove pans from oven and let cool on a wire rack for 2 to 3 minutes, then invert and tap madeleines onto the rack. You may also use a small offset spatula to remove each one individually. Serve warm or let cool completely if storing or freezing.
MADELEINE MUST-HAVE:
Chefs and bakers alike will tell you that the Microplane zester is a kitchen necessity. That’s because it’s so versatile. Whether you want to sprinkle Parmesan cheese over a salad, top a foamy cappuccino with grated dark chocolate, or add flavorful citrus zest to a recipe, all you need is this handheld grater. I love using mine for decorating the plates I use when serving madeleines. A dusting of dark chocolate or orange zest is an easy way to dress up a platter.
THE COMBINATION OF FRESH CITRUSY LEMON AND CRUNCHY POPPY SEEDS TASTES GREAT IN A POUND CAKE, so it’s no surprise that this familiar flavor profile is just as appealing in madeleine form. Plus, the smaller size offers a much better chance at portion control!
YIELD: 24 MADELEINES
12 tablespoons (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature, plus 4 tbsp for pans (optional)
1 cup all-purpose flour
1½ tsp baking powder
1 cup granulated sugar
3 large eggs, room temperature
1 tbsp freshly grated lemon zest, from a medium lemon
1 tbsp fresh lemon juice
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 tbsp poppy seeds
GLAZE
1½ cups confectioners’ sugar, sifted
2 tbsp fresh lemon juice
1. Place a rack in the center of the oven and preheat oven to 350°F. Coat two 12-shell pans with baking spray, or melt an additional 4 tablespoons butter and brush a little in each mold.
2. In a small bowl, whisk together flour and baking powder.
3. Place butter and sugar in a 2-quart microwavable glass bowl or measuring cup. Microwave on low power for 1 to 2 minutes and then stir mixture with a whisk until smooth. If butter is not melted, microwave for 15-second intervals, stirring after each, until mixture is smooth.
4. Let mixture cool for 3 to 4 minutes and then add eggs, one at a time, whisking well after each addition until completely blended. Add zest, lemon juice, and vanilla and whisk until thoroughly blended.
5. Add flour mixture and poppy seeds to batter and stir until flour is incorporated and batter is smooth.
6. Using a 1½-inch-diameter scoop or a teaspoon, fill shell molds with batter until almost full. Gently press batter to distribute it evenly.
7. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until madeleines puff up and spring back when lightly pressed.
8. Remove pans from oven and let cool on a wire rack for 2 to 3 minutes, then invert and tap madeleines onto the rack. You may also use a small offset spatula to remove each one individually. While the madeleines cool, make the lemon glaze.
GLAZE
1. Stir confectioners’ sugar and lemon juice together in a small bowl. While stirring, add water 1 teaspoon at a time until mixture is thin and smooth. Whisk to blend well.
2. With a pastry brush, coat each madeleine on the scalloped side with a thin layer of the glaze. Place on a sheet pan and allow glaze to set.
MELT-IN-YOUR-MOUTH RICH, BUTTERY SHORTBREAD COOKIES ARE KNOWN BY SEVERAL NAMES: Russian tea cakes, Mexican wedding cookies, Greek kourambiedes, or, in the United States, butterballs, which often appear at Christmastime. I have adapted this recipe from that of a dear friend’s Greek mother. It calls for hazelnuts, but feel free to substitute walnuts, pecans, almonds, or your favorite nuts. Also, you might want to dust off your stand mixer, which will produce a spongier, more cakelike madeleine. But the one-bowl mixing method works for this recipe too.
YIELD: 24 MADELEINES
16 tbsp (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature, plus 4 tbsp for pans (optional)
8 tbsp confectioners’ sugar, plus an additional 2 to 3 cups for coating and sprinkling
2 tsp vanilla bean paste or vanilla extract
21¼ cups all-purpose flour
¾ cup hazelnuts, toasted and finely chopped
1. Place a rack in the center of the oven and preheat oven to 350°F. Coat two 12-shell pans with baking spray, or melt an additional 4 tablespoons butter and brush a little in each mold.
2. Place butter and 8 tablespoons of the confectioners’ sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer. Beat with the mixer’s paddle attachment on medium for about 1 to 2 minutes, then medium high until batter is light and fluffy, about 4 to 5 minutes. Add vanilla and beat for another minute.
3. With mixer on low speed, add flour, scraping down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula as necessary. Add nuts, continuing to mix on low speed until incorporated.
4. Using a 1½-inch-diameter scoop or a teaspoon, fill shell molds with batter until almost full. Gently press batter to distribute it evenly.
5. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until madeleines puff up and edges are golden brown.
6. Remove pans from oven and let cool on a wire rack for 2 to 3 minutes, then invert and tap madeleines onto the rack. You may also use a small offset spatula to remove each one individually.
7. Sprinkle the remaining 2 to 3 cups confectioners’ sugar on a cookie sheet. Immediately place the warm madeleines on top and use your hands to cover them completely in sugar. The sugar should melt into the warm madeleines. Let cool completely.
8. When madeleines are cool, sift the remaining confectioners’ sugar over them for a pretty finish.
“If baking is any labor at all, it’s a labor of love. A love that gets passed from generation to generation.”
MY DAUGHTER, LANEY, HAS FILLED AN ENTIRE SHELF IN OUR PANTRY WITH TEAS: green, black, herbal, white, oolong, chai, and on and on. To reclaim a little shelf space, I decided to brew some and add the reduction to a basic batter. After much experimenting, I discovered that a chai tea latte mix made the best madeleine. These have a rich, mellow flavor and give off a wonderful aroma.
YIELD: 12 MADELEINES
6 tbsp unsalted butter, room temperature, plus 2 tbsp for pan (optional)
½ cup granulated sugar
1 large egg, room temperature
1 tbsp honey
4 tsp store-bought powdered chai tea latte mix (such as Trader Joe’s)
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1. Place a rack in the center of the oven and preheat oven to 325°F. Coat one 12-shell pan with baking spray, or brush with melted butter.
2. Place butter and sugar in a 2-quart microwavable glass bowl or measuring cup. Microwave on low power for 1 to 2 minutes and then stir mixture with a whisk until smooth. If butter is not melted, microwave at 15-second intervals, stirring after each, until mixture is smooth.
3. Let mixture cool for about 3 to 4 minutes, and then add egg and whisk until smooth.
4. Whisk in honey until thoroughly blended. Add the chai tea mix and flour and whisk until batter is smooth.
5. Using a 1½-inch-diameter scoop or a teaspoon, fill shell molds with batter until two-thirds full. Gently press batter to distribute it evenly.
6. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until madeleines are golden brown around the edges. These don’t puff up as much as other madeleines, so watch them carefully to avoid overbaking.
7. Remove pan from oven and let cool on a wire rack for 2 to 3 minutes, then invert and tap madeleines onto the rack. You may also use a small offset spatula to remove each one individually. Serve warm, or let cool completely before storing or freezing.
ESPECIALLY COMMON IN DESSERTS OF SOUTH AMERICAN COUNTRIES, Dulce de Leche has grown in popularity in the United States and is now increasingly available in grocery stores (check the international foods aisle). This sweet, thick sauce is made by heating sweetened condensed milk (the term literally translates as “candy of milk”), and its rich, decadent flavor and consistency are similar to caramel. In this recipe I use it in the batter, but you can also serve it on the side or sandwich ½ teaspoon between mini madeleines.
YIELD: 24 MADELEINES OR 72 (OR MORE) MINI MADELEINES
1 cup all-purpose flour
½ tsp baking powder
12 tbsp (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature, plus 4 tbsp for pans (optional)
¾ cup granulated sugar
⅓ cup canned dulce de leche, room temperature (plus an additional ⅓ cup if making madeleine sandwiches)
2 large eggs, room temperature
1 tsp fleur de sel (optional)
1. Place a rack in the center of the oven and preheat oven to 325°F. Coat two 12-shell pans or four mini madeleine pans with baking spray, or melt an additional 4 tablespoons butter and brush a little in each mold.
2. In a small bowl, whisk together flour and baking powder.
3. Place butter and sugar in a 2-quart microwavable glass bowl or measuring cup. Microwave on low power for 1 to 2 minutes and then stir with a whisk until smooth. If butter is not melted, microwave for 15-second intervals, stirring after each, until mixture is smooth.
4. Whisk in dulce de leche until mixture is smooth.
5. Let mixture cool for about 3 to 4 minutes and then add eggs, one at a time, whisking well after each addition until completely blended. Add flour mixture and blend well. The mixture will be thick.
6. Using a 1½-inch-diameter scoop or a teaspoon, fill shell molds with batter until almost full. Sprinkle a few grains of fleur de sel onto each, if using.
7. Bake for 11 to 13 minutes, until madeleines puff up and small cracks appear on the tops. If making mini madeleines, reduce baking time to 3 to 4 minutes.
8. Remove pans from oven and let cool on a wire rack for 1 to 2 minutes, then invert and tap madeleines onto the rack.
9. To make madeleine sandwiches: Cool the madeleines completely, about 20 minutes, so the filling doesn’t melt. Spread about a teaspoon of dulce de leche (half a teaspoon for a mini madeleine) onto the flat side of a madeleine, and then sandwich it with another.
“I think baking cookies is equal to Queen Victoria running an empire. There’s no difference in how seriously you take your job, how seriously you approach your whole life.”
ROSEWATER IS A LIGHT, DELICATE, FRAGRANT ESSENCE MADE BY SOAKING FRESH ROSES IN HEATED WATER. It’s been used since ancient times for medicinal purposes, in religious ceremonies, as perfumes, and even as a food ingredient. From Indian lassis to English scones, rosewater is still a culinary go-to ingredient. These madeleines are moist on the inside and crisp on the outside, and I like to put a drop or two of red food coloring into the batter to give them a soft pink color. Simpler still, you can sprinkle the batter with pink sugar crystals after scooping into the pans and before baking.
YIELD: 24 MADELEINES
12 tbsp (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature, plus 4 tbsp for pans (optional)
1 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs, room temperature
2 tsp rosewater
½ tsp vanilla extract
1 or 2 drops red food coloring and/or ⅓ cup pink sugar crystals (optional)
1 cup all-purpose flour
1. Place a rack in the center of the oven and preheat oven to 350°F. Coat two 12-shell pans with baking spray, or melt an additional 4 tablespoons butter and brush a little in each mold.
2. Place butter and sugar in a 2-quart microwavable glass bowl or measuring cup. Microwave on low power for 1 to 2 minutes and then stir mixture with a whisk until smooth. If butter is not melted, microwave for 15-second intervals, stirring after each, until mixture is smooth.
3. Let mixture cool for about 3 to 4 minutes and then add eggs, one at a time, whisking well after each addition until completely blended. Add rosewater and vanilla and whisk until thoroughly blended. If using food coloring, whisk a drop or two into mixture.
4. Add flour and whisk in gently until just incorporated.
5. Using a 1½-inch-diameter scoop or a teaspoon, fill shell molds with batter until almost full. If using pink sugar crystals, sprinkle a few onto each.
6. Bake for 11 to 13 minutes, until madeleines puff up and spring back when lightly pressed.
7. Remove pans from oven and let cool on a wire rack for 2 to 3 minutes, then invert and tap madeleines onto rack. You may also use a small offset spatula to remove each one individually.
“Cookies are made of butter and love.”
THE PIÑA COLADA IS PUERTO RICO’S OFFICIAL COCKTAIL, and the combination of pineapple, rum, lime, and coconut flavors instantly conjures tropical beaches. These madeleines do the same. For extra crunch and tropical flavor, sprinkle toasted macadamia nuts onto each before baking.
YIELD: 24 MADELEINES
¾ cup all-purpose flour
¾ tsp baking powder
⅛ tsp salt
8 tbsp (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature, plus 4 tbsp for pans (optional)
¾ cup light brown sugar, packed
⅓ cup canned crushed pineapple with juice
1 large egg, room temperature
1 tbsp dark rum
1½ cups sweetened coconut, toasted, divided
½ cup white chocolate chips
¾ cup macadamia nuts (optional)
1. Place a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Coat two 12-shell pans with baking spray, or melt 4 tablespoons butter and brush into each mold.
2. In a small bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, and salt.
3. Place butter and brown sugar in a 2-quart microwavable glass bowl or measuring cup. Microwave on low power for 1 to 2 minutes and stir with a whisk until smooth. If butter is not melted, microwave for 15-second intervals, stirring after each, until smooth. Cool to room temperature.
4. Whisk in pineapple. Add egg, rum, and 1 cup of the coconut, whisking well to combine.
5. Add flour mixture to the batter, blending well to incorporate. Stir in the white chocolate chips.
6. Using a 1½-inch-diameter scoop or a teaspoon, fill shell molds with batter until almost full. Gently press batter to distribute it evenly. Sprinkle each one with the remaining ½ cup coconut and the macadamia nuts, if using.
7. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until madeleines puff up and edges are golden brown.
8. Remove pans from oven and let cool for 1 to 2 minutes, then invert and tap madeleines onto a rack. Or use a small offset spatula to remove each one individually.
EGGNOG IS A CREAMY, VANILLA-Y DRINK ASSOCIATED WITH CHRISTMAS THATS OFTEN SPIKED WITH BOURBON AND GARNISHED WITH FRESHLY GROUND NUTMEG. These eggnog-infused madeleines are a perfect dessert any time of year, but they’re a favorite in my house around the holidays, imparting a festive flavor with or without spirits.
YIELD: 16 MADELEINES
¾ cup all-purpose flour
½ tsp baking powder
⅛ tsp salt
1 to 1½ tsp freshly grated nutmeg (or 2 tsp ground nutmeg), or to taste, plus more for sprinkling
6 tbsp (¾ stick) unsalted butter, room temperature, plus 4 tbsp for pans (optional)
½ cup granulated sugar
⅓ cup eggnog (Optional: Reduce the eggnog by 1 tbsp and add 1 tbsp bourbon or rum.)
2 eggs
1 tsp vanilla bean paste or vanilla extract
1. Place a rack in the center of the oven and preheat oven to 350°F. Coat two 12-shell pans with baking spray, or melt an additional 4 tablespoons butter and brush a little in each mold.
2. In a small bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, salt, and nutmeg.
3. Place butter and sugar in a 2-quart microwavable glass bowl or measuring cup. Microwave on low power for 1 to 2 minutes and then stir mixture with a whisk until smooth. If butter is not melted, microwave for 15-second intervals, stirring after each, until mixture is smooth.
4. Let mixture cool for about 3 to 4 minutes and then add eggs, one at a time, whisking well after each addition until completely blended. Stir in vanilla bean paste and blend well. Stir in the eggnog and blend well. Add flour mixture, whisking well to blend completely.
5. Using a 1½-inch-diameter scoop or a teaspoon, fill shell molds with batter until almost full. Grate a small amount of nutmeg over each.
6. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until madeleines puff up and edges are golden brown.
7. Remove pans from oven and let cool on a wire rack for 1 to 2 minutes, then invert and tap madeleines onto the rack. You may also use a small offset spatula to remove each one individually.
MADELEINE MUST-HAVE:
FRESHLY GRATED NUTMEG
You can use ground nutmeg, but if you want this mild, sweet, and slightly bitter spice to really pop, buy whole nutmeg and grate it as needed with a fine zester or grater. There’s no exact formula for substituting fresh nutmeg for ground, but keep in mind that a little goes much further when you grate the spice yourself.
