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condiments & sides

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green chutney

coriander & chili chutney

½ bunch mint, leaves picked

1 bunch cilantro (coriander), leaves picked and coarsely chopped

4 long green chilies, chopped

½ red onion

1 tablespoon lemon juice

2 teaspoons finely grated ginger

MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS

Process all of the ingredients with 1 teaspoon of salt and ½ teaspoon of ground black pepper in a food processor until smooth. Transfer to a small bowl and cover until ready to serve.

tamarind & ginger chutney

3 tablespoons gingili (unscented sesame oil) (see glossary)

6 dried red chilies

1 teaspoon black mustard seeds

2 tablespoons finely grated ginger

cup (2½ fl oz/80 ml) tamarind concentrate (see glossary)

1 cup (5½ oz/150 g) grated palm sugar (jaggery)

MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS

Heat the gingili in a small saucepan over medium–high heat, add the chilies and cook until blackened. Add the mustard seeds and allow them to crackle for 20 seconds.

Add the ginger, tamarind concentrate, and scant 1 cup (7 fl oz/200 ml) of water and bring to a boil. Add the palm sugar and cook for 20 minutes or until it is thick enough to coat a spoon. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. Store in an airtight jar in the fridge for up to two weeks.

 

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plum chutney

1 lb 2 oz (500 g) red plums, finely diced with stones removed

7 tablespoons (3½ fl oz/100 ml) white vinegar

½ cup (3½ oz/100 g) granulated sugar

1 cinnamon stick

2–3 green cardamom pods

2–3 black peppercorns

2 teaspoons ( oz/3–4 g) Kashmiri chili powder (see glossary)

pinch of finely chopped garlic

MAKES ABOUT 2½ CUPS

Combine all of the ingredients in a saucepan over low heat and cook for 15–20 minutes or until thickened, stirring occassionally. Remove from the heat, then transfer to the fridge to chill. Serve cold. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to a week.

burrani raita

2 cups (1 lb 2½ oz/520 g) plain, thick yogurt

12 garlic cloves

½ teaspoon red chili powder

3 tablespoons milk

ground cumin, to garnish

MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS

Beat the yogurt until smooth. Set aside.

Crush the garlic, then pass through a fine sieve to collect the juice. Discard the solids.

Add the garlic juice and chili powder to the yogurt, season with salt, and mix well. Add enough milk to achieve a thin consistency. Chill until ready to serve.

Garnish with a pinch of cumin and serve with biriyani.

 

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chettiyar chutney

6 onions, roughly chopped

10 roma (plum) tomatoes, peeled and roughly chopped

8–10 dried red chilies

2 cup (9¾ oz/275 g) tamarind concentrate (see glossary)

cup (2½ oz/75 g) chana dal, toasted (see glossary)

8 thin garlic slices

1 tablespoon gingili (unscented sesame oil) (see glossary)

1 teaspoon black mustard seeds

MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS

Place all of the ingredients except the gingili and mustard seeds in a food processor and process until finely chopped and smooth. Transfer to a bowl.

Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium–high heat, add the mustard seeds and allow them to crackle for 20 seconds. Remove from the heat and add to the onion mixture.

mint & yogurt sauce

1 bunch mint, leaves and stalks

1 bunch cilantro (coriander), leaves and stalks

2 small green chilies

2 garlic cloves

1 tablespoon finely grated ginger

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 teaspoon granulated sugar

10 black peppercorns

2 cups (1 lb 2 oz/500 g) plain, thick yogurt

juice of 1 lime

MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS

Roughly chop the herb leaves and stalks and place in a food processor. Add the remaining ingredients, except the lime juice and yogurt, and process to a smooth paste, adding minimal water as necessary.

Place the yogurt in a bowl and beat until smooth. Add the herb mixture and lime juice, and season with salt. Refrigerate until needed.

(pictured page 216)

 

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tamarind rice

2½ cups (1 lb 2 oz/500 g) long-grain white rice, rinsed

¾ cup (5¾ fl oz/180 ml) vegetable or sunflower oil

1 teaspoon black mustard seeds

5 dried red chilies

½ teaspoon fenugreek seeds

pinch of asafetida (see glossary)

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

½ cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) tamarind water (see glossary)

1 tablespoon chana dal (see glossary)

1 tablespoon raw peanuts

1 tablespoon coriander seeds, toasted and ground

1 tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted and ground

10 fried curry leaves

SERVES 4

Place the rice in a saucepan, cover with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water and bring to a boil over medium heat. Once it is three-quarters cooked, drain the rice, spread it over a tray, and allow it to dry completely and cool to room temperature.

Drizzle cup (2½ fl oz/80 ml) of the oil over the rice.

Heat cup (2½ fl oz/80 ml) of the oil in a small saucepan over medium–high heat, add the mustard seeds and let them crackle for 20 seconds, then add the chilies, fenugreek, asafetida, and turmeric. Add the tamarind water, season with salt, and cook for 3 minutes or until thick like a gravy.

Heat the remaining oil in a small frying pan over medium heat, add the chana dal and peanuts, and cook until golden brown. Add to the rice.

Add the ground coriander seeds and sesame seeds, tamarind mixture, and curry leaves to the rice, mix well, and serve.

 

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lemon rice

2½ cups (1 lb 2 oz/500 g) long-grain white rice, rinsed

1 tablespoon vegetable or sunflower oil

1 teaspoon black mustard seeds

pinch of asafetida (see glossary)

1 teaspoon chana dal (see glossary)

1 teaspoon urad dal (black lentils/black gram) (see glossary)

2 dried red chilies, broken in half

2 small green chilies, chopped

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

juice of 3 lemons

1 tablespoon fried cashew nuts

1 tablespoon fried peanuts

10 fried curry leaves

SERVES 4

Place the rice in a saucepan, cover with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water, and bring to a boil over medium heat. Cook until al dente. Drain the water and place the rice in a large bowl.

Heat the oil in a small frying pan over medium–high heat, add the mustard seeds and allow them to crackle for 20 seconds, then add the asafetida, chana dal, urad dal, and dried and green chilies, and cook until the dal is golden brown. Add the turmeric, then remove from the heat and set aside to cool to room temperature.

Add the lemon juice to the spice mixture, then pour the mixture over the rice, season with salt, and mix well. Garnish with the fried nuts and curry leaves.

tip Make sure the mixture has cooled to room temperature before adding the lemon juice, otherwise it will taste bitter.

curd rice

2½ cups (1 lb 2 oz/500 g) long-grain white rice, rinsed

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

½ teaspoon black mustard seeds

1 dried red chili, broken in half

½ cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) milk

3 small green chilies, chopped

1¼-inch (3-cm) piece of ginger, chopped

10 curry leaves

5 cups (3 lb/1.3 kg) fresh curd or plain thick yogurt

SERVES 4

Place the rice in a saucepan, cover with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water, and bring to a boil over medium heat. Cook until al dente. Drain the water, place the rice in a large bowl, and allow to cool.

Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium–high heat, add the mustard seeds and allow them to crackle for 20 seconds, then add the dried and green chilies, ginger, and curry leaves, and cook until fragrant but not colored. Remove from the heat and add to the rice.

Add the curd, season with salt, and stir, then add the milk and mix thoroughly. This is best eaten with lime pickle.

 

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coconut rice

2½ cups (1 lb 2 oz/500 g) long-grain white rice, rinsed

2 tablespoons coconut oil

½ teaspoon black mustard seeds

pinch of asafetida (see glossary)

1 tablespoon chana dal (see glossary)

1 teaspoon urad dal (black lentils/black gram) (see glossary)

2 dried red chilies, broken in half

1 small green chili, halved lengthwise

1 coconut, flesh grated

10 curry leaves

1 tablespoon fried cashew nuts

SERVES 4

Place the rice in a saucepan, cover with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water, and bring to a boil over medium heat. Cook until al dente. Drain the water and place the rice in a large bowl.

Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium–high heat, add the mustard seeds and allow them to crackle for 20 seconds, then add the asafetida, chana dal, urad dal, and dried and green chilies, and cook until the dal turns golden brown.

Add the coconut and cook until fragrant but not colored. Remove from the heat, stir in the curry leaves, and season with salt.

Pour the spice mixture over the rice and mix well. Garnish with the fried cashew nuts.

rasam powder

8 dried red chilies

2 tablespoons coriander seeds

20 black peppercorns

1 tablespoon cumin seeds

2 tablespoons toor dal (yellow lentils) (see glossary)

1 tablespoon chana dal (see glossary)

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP

In a dry-frying pan over medium heat, lightly toast all the ingredients, shaking the pan occasionally so they don’t burn. Using a spice grinder or mortar and pestle, grind into a fine powder. Store in an airtight jar for up to six months.