This is such a lovely, fresh and soothing emulsion, that I am happy to keep a jug of it, for a solo-supper or between-meal refuelling, in the fridge at any time in summer. And while I quite see the sense in using new sugar-sweet peas while they’re about, most peas lounge about in shops quite long enough for their pearly sweetness to turn to starch, in which case you can use frozen peas without feeling you’re utterly devoid of the seasonal virtues. If you are, however, using fresh peas, drop the pods into the water at the steeping stage, and then boil it all up again for ten minutes, just to extract every last bit of flavour. It’ll mean you have to strain the liquid before adding it to the peas themselves, which isn’t exactly hard work, but, on top of the podding itself (though children seem to do this gladly, especially if watching TV at the same time) is still another procedure, should such factors hold any weight with you, as they often do with me.
Again, although I’ve stipulated vegetable stock, I mean nothing more troublesome than adding a tablespoon or so of Benedicta’s Touch of Taste vegetable bouillon concentrate or Marigold vegetable stock powder to water.
1.25 litres vegetable stock
stalks from a bunch fresh mint with the leaves saved
1 tablespoon dried mint
500g frozen petits pois (or 1.5 kilos of fresh peas, podded, pods reserved)
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 spring onions, finely chopped
salt and pepper
1 x 284ml carton sour cream
Pour the stock into a large jug or pan and add the fresh mint stalks and the dried mint and leave to steep for 20 minutes to half an hour. If you’re using fresh peas, pour the stock directly into a pan along with the mints and pods and boil for about 10–15 minutes and then strain into a jug.
Pour the oil into a large saucepan and warm over medium heat. Add the chopped spring onions and turn in the warm oil for a few minutes until slightly softened, but certainly not caught in any way and then tumble in the peas. If you’re using frozen ones, there is no need to defrost them first.
Cook these, stirring with a wooden spatula all the while, over a low to medium heat until the peas have softened a little. Fish out the mint stalks from the stock and pour into the pan, or use the strained pod stock. It’s impossible, really, to say exactly how long it will take for the peas to be sufficiently soft, but think around 20 minutes. Leave to cool, and then blitz, in batches, in a blender or processor. Season to taste. If you’re making this at all in advance, it’s best to keep the pea purée creamless in the fridge until serving, at which time you should ideally blend it again with the sour cream.
Pour into cups or bowls and sprinkle with the chopped, reserved mint leaves.
Serves 6–8, depending on whether you’re using cups or bowls.