MARINATED SALMON WITH CAPERS AND GHERKINS

I first ate this sitting under a shade on a small, unpeopled Ibicencan beach bar a few summers ago, and just had to make it, or a version of it, myself once back. It’s not what one might automatically think of as Spanish food; the fish, the way it’s prepared, as well as the dill that’s sprinkled on top remind me far more of northern European cooking. Still, let’s be realistic; the influx of Germans over the years (while it hasn’t reached Mallorcan levels of teutonisation) must account for its inclusion on the menu in the first place.

But derivation is of academic interest only. This is wonderful: light and refreshing and very, very easy to put together. It does, however, need to be cooked, if that’s the word, at the last minute; any more than 10 minutes’ steeping and the lime juice denatures and bleaches the salmon too much. Though if the idea of uncooked salmon spooks you – though why? – you can turn the slices quickly in a hot, oilless frying pan first.

If you get the salmon from a fishmonger, ask for it to be sliced like smoked salmon; otherwise just buy escalopes. I have to say, though, that I love it unmarinaded: that’s to say, left fleshily raw and coral still; you don’t have to change anything about the way you prepare it, you just take it to the table the minute everything’s on the plate.

Dill is one of those herbs which you love or detest; feel free to substitute chives or coriander or, indeed, leave it herbless.

juice of 1 lime

1 x 15ml tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

Maldon salt

white pepper, only if you have it to hand

325g salmon, sliced very thin

6 baby gherkins

4 tablespoons capers

fresh dill for sprinkling over

Squeeze the lime juice into a jug and fork in the the oil, salt and pepper. Using a pair of scissors, cut the salmon pieces into rough raggedy strips and arrange them on a large plate or a couple of plates. Pour the lime juice mixture over, cut the baby gherkins into slender slices lengthways and toss them, along with the capers, on top.

Sprinkle with dill and take to the table. Some Northern impulse in me makes me want to prompt you to eat it with pumpernickel. But buttered brown bread is fine: or (as I, to be frank, most often eat it), go pure and carbohydrate-free and just put a green salad on the table alongside.

Serves 4.