GOOSEBERRY AND ELDERFLOWER ICE CREAM

This is June in idealised gastro-form. Don’t make me go on: words just cloud the issue. But know only that one mouthful of this, with its combination of tart fruit, floral syrup and egg-rich cream, makes you feel as you’ve been transported to a purer, better age. Eat and weep.

500g gooseberries

125ml elderflower cordial

2 tablespoons water

300ml single cream

100g caster sugar

3 egg yolks

300ml double cream, whipped

Put the gooseberries, elderflower cordial and water into a pan and cook, stirring every now and again, till the fruit has burst into mushiness. Take off the heat and when it’s cooled down a little, purée either in a processor or blender, or just with a fork. Whatever: you don’t want a super-smooth mixture here; a bit of texture is a good thing.

Make a custard in the normal way: that’s to say heat the single cream, beat the sugar and yolks, add the one to the other and put back on the heat, stirring, until thickened. Pour into a bowl and let cool. When the custard’s completely cold, stir in the also-cold gooseberry and elderflower purée and then fold in the whipped cream. Freeze, observing all the usual strictures.

Serves 8.