Index
Aberdare mountains, 11
Abraham (Kenyan pastor), 12–14, 40
Adam (Bukoba bar-owner), 147–8
African Contemporary Record,49
African Lakes Company, 212, 214, 226
Africans: patronised by Europeans, 35–8;
AIDS (ukimwi; ‘slim disease’):
prevalence and incidence, 9, 12–13, 28, 34, 43, 55, 89–90, 101, 145, 149, 157, 173–4, 177, 185–6, 201, 206, 245;
control programmes, 42, 68, 184–5, 223;
belief in Western cure, 52, 90;
Western action on, 59;
and internal migration, 73, 89, 174;
interest in Western experience of, 76;
effects, 80;
testing and screening, 81, 89, 149–50, 194;
and ‘behaviour change’
(monogamy and celibacy), 86–8, 127, 130, 156, 186, 199, 203, 223;
and Irish attitudes, 87;
and moral dilemmas, 89;
believed introduced by US, 129, 143;
testing costs, 149;
Support Organisation, 150;
and personal responsibility, 152–3;
and sex as commodity, 161;
Church and religious attitudes to, 166, 186, 199;
proposed solution by polygamy, 181, 186;
AIDS & Health News,251
Albert (Ugandan driver), 67, 70
Alcock, Sir Rutherford, 191
Ali (of Kyenjojo), 109–10, 168, 266
Alice (Edward’s wife), 70
Amin, Idi, 49–50, 67, 71–2, 91, 120, 143, 146, 152
Amnesty International, 49
Angela (Ugandan), 69
Ankole (Uganda), 123, 126, 130, 133
Arabs: slave trade, 209–10, 212–14
Archer, Jeffrey, 84
Asians: in East Africa, 57–8, 85, 200
backpackers, 73–4, 78, 119, 217
Bagamoya (Tanzania), 165
Baganda people (Uganda), 94, 102
Bahaya people (Tanzania), 147, 160
Baines (District Commissioner, Kagera, 1910), 153
Bairu people (Uganda), 133
Banda, Dr Hastings Kamuzu: regime, 210, 218–21, 223, 227, 236;
unpopularity, 230;
birthday, 235;
hostility to Kaunda, 240
Basoga people (Uganda), 94
Basunju (Uganda), 96
Ben (of Chelinda Lodge), 233–4
Bernadette (Mumfi’s daughter), 156–7
Binaisa, Godfrey, 72
Binks, Herbert: African Rainbow, 20
Blake, Robert: A History of Rhodesia,261–2
Blantyre (Malawi), 215–16, 224
Bomet (Kenya), 19
Bongyereirwe, Mr (construction engineer), 129
Brigid, Sister, 246
British South Africa Company, 247
Bruce (Californian motorcyclist), 163–4, 176
Bugala Island (Uganda), 67, 74–9, 82
Bukoba (Tanzania), 144–55, 157, 160, 167, 185
Bunyoro (kingdom, Uganda), 100
Burton, Sir Richard, 61
Bushenyi (Uganda), 122, 124–5, 132–4
Busia (Uganda), 47
Busoga (Uganda), 51
Cameroon, 11
Carlsberg (brewers), 219
Carol (of Rukararwe), 127
Catherine, Sister, 246
Chama Cha Mapinduzi (political party), 167, 172
Chelinda Lodge (Malawi), 232–5
Chewa people (Malawi), 228
Chibeza (bank adviser, Zambia), 242–4
Chihana, Chakufwa, 216–17, 222
Chilembwe Rising (Nyasaland, 1915), 216
Chipata (formerly Fort Jameson, Zambia), 247, 249
Christian Aid (charity), 125
Christian Centre of Tanzania (Dodoma), 167
Chungwe (Zambia), 249
Church Missionary Society, 44, 153
Chwa, Sir Daudi, Kabaka of Baganda, 91
smuggling, 147;
Bukoba exports, 160
colonists: attitude to Africans, 35–8
Concern (Irish NGO), 140–1, 171–2, 175
Daily Nation (Kenya), 21
Daily News (Tanzania), 176, 187
Dalkin, Shayne and Gary, 260–1
Damian (Kenyan), 44
Dedan (Chisenga boy), 230
diamonds, 162
Dodoma (Tanzania), 163, 166–8, 195
Donovan, Vincent J.: Christianity Rediscovered,36
Edward (Ugandan coffee grower), 69–70
Edward, Lake (formerly Lake Idi Amin), 120
Ekwendeni (Malawi), 237
Eliot, Sir Charles, 26
Elizabeth II, Queen, 187
Ella (Matthew’s wife), 18
Engstrom, Ted, 141
Entebbe (Uganda), 64–6, 70, 73, 83;
Virus Research Institute, 252
Etima, Mr (of Bugala), 75
European Community (EC): activities in Uganda, 66–8, 70
Eva (of Fort Portal), 111
feminists, feminism, 122–4, 128, 251;
see also women
Fischer, Gustav, 10
Fitzhenry, Sister D.A., 166
Flytche-Hogg, Capt. P.J., 166
Fort Portal (Uganda), 110–11, 114–17, 119
Forum for the Restoration of Democracy (FORD), 4, 18
Fotheringham, Monteith, 212–14
Fourah Bay Institution (Sierra Leone), 6
Fox, Wilson, 262
Francis (of Chelinda Lodge), 234
Frank (Hoima guest-house owner), 101
Gallmann, Kuki: I Dreamed of Africa,38
Ganda people (Uganda), 49
General Service Unit (GSU), Kenya, 4, 30, 32, 34
George, Lake, 120
Geraldine (Irishwoman, Kampala), 84, 90, 94, 99
Germany: colonies, 63;
war in East Africa (1914–1918), 204, 208
Gin (Kenya), 12
Gladstone, William Ewart, 10
Great East Road (Malawi), 240
groundnuts scheme (Tanzania), 168–9
Hancock, Graham: Lords of Poverty, 141
Hannington, Bishop James, 51
healers (traditional; ‘medicine men’), 130–2
Helen (Bushenyi duka-owner), 122–4, 127–30, 132
Hell’s Gate National Park (Kenya), 9
Hindus: in Kampala, 85;
see also Asians Hoima (Uganda), 100–4, 120
Hornby, Miss (missionary), 186–7
Hugo, Piet, 37
Hutu people (Rwanda), 136
Huxley, Elspeth, 36–8, 160–1, 168–9, 186
Igawa (Tanzania), 196
Ilmasai clan (Kenya), 10
Iloikop clan (Kenya), 10
Imperial British East Africa Company, 114
Interim Committee for a Democratic Alliance in Malawi (ICDAM), 126
International Commission of Jurists, 49
International Monetary Fund (IMF), 174–5, 206
see also Roche, Bishop John
Iringa (Tanzania), 180–5, 188, 191–2
Isaah (Luo), 41
Jackson, Robert and Carl Rosberg: Personal Rule in Black Africa,220
James (café owner, Jinja), 55
Jane (Lyantonde lodging house owner), 135–7
Jill (of Bushenyi), 122–4, 126, 128–33, 136, 164
John Paul II, Pope, 157
Johnston, Erika: The Other Side of Kilimanjaro,36–7
Joseph (of Sotik), 24–5, 27, 34
Jossy (Ugandan agricultural officer), 130, 134–5
Kabalagala (Kampala suburb), 95
Kabale (Uganda), 136
Kabarega, King of Bunyoro, 100
Kagera (Tanzania), 145, 149, 152–3, 156, 184
Kajanebalola, Lake, 138
Kampala (Uganda), 64, 83–90, 93, 95–6, 168;
Kara Counselling and Training Trust, 251
Karonga (Malawi), 203, 212–14, 217–19, 221–2, 225–6
Karugire, Professor S.R., 91
Kasita, River (Malawi), 237
Kasungu (Malawi), 213;
National Park, 249
Katete (Zambia), 249
Kaunda, Kenneth: hostility to Banda, 240;
on rural development, 243;
and female education, 246;
economic and political regime, 247–8
Kavirondo, Bay of (Lake Victoria), 39
Kazinga Canal (Uganda), 120
Kenya: repression and unrest in, 4–5, 21–4, 30–4;
wealth and poverty in, 12;
Aids Support Organisation, 150;
see also Nairobi
Kenya Africa National Union (KANU), 5, 32
Kijanebalola, Lake, 138
Kikuyu people (Kenya), 21, 27–8, 32, 39
Kilima Estate (Tanzania), 195
Kilosa (Tanzania), 172–3, 175–6
Kintinku (Tanzania), 165
Kipengere Range (Malawi), 208
Kipsigi people (Kenya), 20–1, 24, 34
Kiwanuka, Benedicto, 93
Kolimba, Dr (Tanzania), 148–50, 156, 184
Kombwe lagoon (Malawi), 213
Kongwa junction (Tanzania), 168–9
Kung, Hans, 6
Kyenjojo (Uganda), 104, 108–10, 120
Kyotera (Uganda), 139–41, 147, 161
Lakes see Edward, Lake; George, Lake; Kajanebalola, Lake; Mburu, Lake; Naivasha, Lake; Nyasa, Lake; Tanganyika, Lake; Victoria, Lake
land ownership (Kenya), 37
Langenn Steinkeller, Captain von, 204
Lilongwe (Malawi), 216–7, 224, 239
Lily (Assistant Director, Primary Health Care, Iringa), 184–5
Limbe (Malawi), 217
Limuru (Kenya), 8
Liomba, Dr George, 223
Livingstone, Dr David, 209–10, 212
Livingstone, Mary, 256
Livingstone Mountains (Malawi), 215
Lonhro (company), 215
Lovegod (of Chikangawa), 238
Lugard, Frederick John Dealtry, Baron, 50, 113, 214
Luhya people (Kenya), 22
Lundazi (Zambia), 240, 242–7, 249
Luo people (Kenya), 21, 24, 28, 30, 32, 34, 41
Lusaka (Zambia), 240, 242, 246, 248, 250, 253–4, 264
Lutundwi (Tanzania), 180
Luwero triangle (Uganda), 93, 95
Lyantonde (Uganda), 133, 135–7
Maathai, Professor Wangari, 33
McHenry, Dean E.: Tanzania, the Struggle for Rural Socialism, 179
Macmillan, Harold (later 1st Earl of Stockton), 262
Mafinga Mountains (Malawi-Zambia), 228, 230
Makumbako (Tanzania), 195, 203
Malawi (formerly Nyasaland): author aims for, 205, 210–11;
author enters, 211;
political and economic regime, 220–1;
foreign aid, 237
Malcolm (of Karonga), 215–18, 224
Malecela, John, 198
Margaret (waitress-prostitute), 194
Markham, Beryl, 38
Martha (Kampala teacher), 85–7
Mary (Chisenga hotel keeper), 229, 231
Masai people (Kenya), 10–11, 14–15, 18, 32, 37, 39, 165
Masai Mara Game Park (Kenya), 14–15, 41
Masaka (Uganda), 67–8, 73, 76, 139–40
Max (Mbeya hotel worker), 202–3
Mayinga, Mr (customs officer), 229, 231
Mbarare (Uganda), 130, 133, 139
Mbeya (Tanzania), 197, 199–201, 204
Mbeya escarpment and plateau, 196–7, 205, 232
Mbeya, Mount, 204
Mbithi, Philip, 33
Mbogo Pass (Tanzania), 203
Mburu, Lake, Game Reserve (Uganda), 134
Meinertzhagen, Richard, 25–6, 35;
Kenya Diary,37
Michael (Concern worker), 175
Michael (retired teacher), 78–9, 82
Miriam (of Rukararwe), 127, 131
missionaries: effect and influence, 92–3, 99;
in Kagera, 153
Misuku Hills (Malawi), 225
The Pursuit of Love,24
Mkondoa, River (Tanzania), 176
Mlowa (Tanzania), 204
Moi, Daniel arap, 5, 21–3, 33, 143
Mombasa, 160
Monica (Concern worker), 175
Moocha (Malawi), 240
Moses (of Sotik), 24, 27–30, 35
Mountains of the Moon (Ruwenzori), 110, 114, 119
Mozambique, 229
Mponda, Chief (of Mangechi District, Malawi), 223
Msowera (Tanzania), 173
Mubende district (Uganda), 96
Mufindi Tea Estates (Tanzania), 195
Mugasha, Professor Apollo, 71
Muhimbili Medical Centre (Tanzania), 149
Mukajanga (Ugandan executioner), 92
Mulumba, Dr (Uganda), 56–7, 80
Mumfi (half-Gujarati), 155–7, 160
Munisi, Ndugu Godfrey, 181–2, 186
Museveni, Yoweri, 48, 57–8, 64, 71, 73, 75, 89, 117, 127
Mutembeya, Sister (Uganda), 79
Mutesa I, Kabaka of Buganda, 91–2, 97, 100
Mutesa, Edward II, Kabaka of Buganda, 91
Mutukula (Uganda), 141–4, 146, 158
Mwalimu see Nyerere, Julius
Mwanga, Kabaka of Buganda, 51, 91–2, 113
Mwanza (Tanzania), 155, 160, 162
Nabwera, Mr (Kenya official), 32
Nairobi: author’s arrival in, 1–3;
demos and riots in, 4–5, 31–3;
author leaves, 7;
conditions, 7;
Kenyatta Hospital, 12
Naivasha, Lake (Kenya), 10
Nathan (Ugandan army officer), 112–14, 117–8, 123
National AIDS Control Programmes (NACP): Tanzania, 185–6;
Malawi, 223
National Resistance Army (NRA), Uganda, 48, 64, 95
Newstead (bank adviser, Zambia), 242–3
New Vision (Ugandan newspaper), 95
Niblett, Mary and Jonny, 195
Nile, White: source, 54, 60–2;
dam, 63
Nkhata Bay (Malawi), 238
Nkonde, plain of (Malawi), 212
Nthalire (Malawi), 231
Nubi people (Uganda), 49
Nyasaland: as British protectorate, 209;
see also Malawi
Nyerere, Julius (‘Mwalimu’), 145, 158–9, 167, 174, 177–9, 187–90, 198–9, 221, 248
Nyika Plateau (Malawi), 228, 231, 233–4
Nyimba (Zambia), 249
Obote, Milton, 48–50, 72, 93, 117, 160
Odiyo, Murphy, 42
O’Grady, Maire and Seamus, 251
Okello, Lt. Gen. Bazilio Olara, 117, 120
Olololunga (Kenya), 16, 18, 20
Olonana (Masai leader), 10
Ormsby-Gore Commission, 1925, 94
Otieno, Willys, 32
Otto Beit Bridge (Zambezi), 254
overlanders, 217
Owen Falls, 63
Parkinson, Joy, 64–6, 83, 96, 145, 178
Patrick (Chisenga boy), 230
Paul VI, Pope, 92
Philip, Prince, Duke of Edinburgh, 187
Place Apart, A (Dervla Murphy), 112
Press Trust (and PTC; Malawi), 217–19
Price, Revd Canon Peter, 221
Queen Elizabeth II National Park (Uganda), 120
Rackham, Arthur, 141
Rafunsa (Zambia), 249
Reweyemamu, Mr (Senior Adviser, Ministry of Education, Dar-es-Salaam), 183, 188
Risa, Mumbi, 31
Roche, Bishop John, 213, 216, 228
Rosebery, Archibald Philip Primrose, 5th Earl of, 113–14
Ruaha Gorge (Tanzania), 180
Ruaha River (Tanzania), 191
Rubeho Mountains (Tanzania), 172, 176
Rudewa (Tanzania), 173
ruga-ruga (African mercenaries), 213–14
Rukararwe Rural Development Centre (Uganda), 124–31, 135
Rukuru, River (Malawi), 226
Ruwenzori see Mountains of the Moon
Sakamaliwa (Tanzania), 165
Salisbury, Robert Arthur Talbot Gascoyne-Cecil, 3rd Marquess of, 63, 94
Sarah (Ugandan sociologist), 97–100
Saul (Tanzanian cyclist), 171–3, 180
Schreiner, Olive, 38
Semliki Valley (Uganda), 111
Semugooma, Corporal Anthony, 95
Sese Islands (Uganda), 67, 72–3
sex: as commodity, 161;
see also AIDS sexually transmitted diseases (STDs), 101, 181;
see also AIDS
Shia Ithua-Asheri Mosque (Dodoma), 167
Shikuku, Dr (Kenya), 42
Simla (India), 111
Singida (Tanzania), 195
slavers see Arabs
Songwe, River, 211
Sotik (Kenya), 20, 21–7, 29–30;
Meinertzhagen in, 35
South Africa, 261
Southern Africa Economist,252
Southern Highlands (Tanzania), 159, 195
Speke, John Hanning, 50, 60–1, 90, 97, 146–7, 162, 165
Standard on Sunday (Kenya newspaper), 31, 33
State and Agriculture in Africa, The (ed. N. Bourenane & T. Mkandawire), 103–4
Stephen (of Rukararwe), 127–8, 132
Stevenson, James, 225
Stevenson Road (Malawi), 225–8, 231
Stewart, Sir Donald, 26
Stier, Herr (German administrator, 1914), 208
Structural Adjustment Programme (SAP), Tanzania, 149
Sylvester (of Karonga), 215–19, 223–4
Tabora (formerly Kazeh, Tanzania), 165
Tanzania: under German rule, 63;
invades Uganda, 67, 71, 76, 146;
agricultural policy, 103–4, 159, 174;
author enters, 141–2, 144–8, 150–1;
health care and problems, 149–50, 188;
characteristics of people, 158–9;
AIDS control programme, 184–6;
roads, 189;
author leaves, 212
Teilhard de Chardin, Pierre, 6
Teresa (wife of John the artist), 45
Teresa, Sister (of Lundazi), 246
Thomson, Joseph, 24, 38, 51, 191, 212, 225, 232, 256
Tobias (Kenyan), 18
Toro Babies’ Home, Fort Portal, 115–16
Toro Game Reserve (Uganda), 111
tuberculosis (TB), 149
political conditions, 48–50, 57–8, 71–2, 75;
tourism, 60;
Tanzania invades, 67, 71, 76, 146;
missionary influence and sectarianism, 92–3; 1886
post-Independence atrocities and lawlessness, 93, 95, 117;
rural demoralisation, 107;
education and schooling in, 107–8;
Ugandan People’s Congress, 93
Ujiji (Tanzania), 165
Victoria (lake ship), 155, 159
Victoria, Lake (Victoria Nyanza), 38–40, 43, 61, 79, 83, 145–6, 151, 162
Viphya Mountains and Plateau (Malawi), 237–8, 240;
Vorster, Balthazar Johannes, 220
Wagogo people (Tanzania), 168–9
Wankonde people (Malawi), 212–14
Ward, Julie, 6
water hyacinths, 83
Watutsi people (Rwanda), 136
Webb, Mr (British Resident, Karonga, 1914), 208
White Highlands (Kenya), 37, 159
Whitehead, David & Sons, Ltd., 215, 218
Will (Dutchman, Tanzania), 173–4
see also healers
women: stripping naked in demo, 4, 31–2;
status in Kenya, 40;
sexual harassment and suppression of, 189–90;
work by, 192;
status in Malawi, 230–1, 235–6;
education of in Zambia, 246;
ingrained beliefs and practices, 251;
see also feminists
World Health Organisation (WHO), 149, 170, 184–5, 253
World Vision (organisation), 141
Young Pioneers (Malawi), 218, 224
Zambezi, River, 254
Zambia (formerly Northern Rhodesia): author aims for, 224;
agricultural and rural development, 243, 248;
foreign debt, 245;
education in, 246;
development under British, 247–8;
international agencies and development in, 264