Shrimp Recipes, A to Z

Shrimp à la King

THE MORE FAMILIAR CHICKEN à la King was most likely created in the 1860s by Chef George Greenwald for Mr. and Mrs. E. Clark King III, proprietors of the chic Brighton Beach Hotel in Brooklyn. The Kings wanted a dish to serve to the Fifth Avenue set who retreated to the country (or eastern Brooklyn) in August. This shrimp version maintains the creamy sauce and mixed vegetables, popularized in the 1950s at Gibson’s lunch counters. Although the dish is traditionally served in a puff pastry shell—something you can purchase ready-to-use in supermarket bakeries or unbaked in the freezer section—it’s equally good over rice or in a hollowed-out bread bowl. MAKES 6 SERVINGS

6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter; or 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick), if using precooked shrimp

1 1/2 pounds medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled and deveined, or precooked cocktail shrimp, thawed and peeled

1/2 pound white button mushrooms, cleaned and quartered

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour 3 cups milk, whole or low-fat, warmed

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

2 dashes Tabasco sauce

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

One 10-ounce package mixed frozen vegetables (such as peas and carrots), thawed

  1. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the raw shrimp, and cook, stirring often, until pink and firm, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and set aside. If you’re using precooked cocktail shrimp, skip to step 2.
  2. Add 1 tablespoon butter to the skillet and set it back over medium heat. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring often, until they give off their juices and the pan is almost dry, about 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms to the shrimp.
  3. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons butter to the skillet and set it back over medium heat. When the butter is melted, add the flour and whisk until well combined. Reduce the heat to low and continue to cook, whisking, for 2 minutes. Do not allow the flour to brown.
  4. Slowly whisk in the warmed milk and cook, whisking constantly, until the sauce is thick and smooth, about 1 minute. Whisk in the Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco sauce, salt, and pepper. Continue to cook, whisking constantly, until well combined, about 1 minute.
  5. Add the mixed vegetables, as well as the shrimp and mushrooms, to the skillet. Stir until they are well coated and heated through. Serve immediately.

BRANDIED SHRIMP À LA KING Reduce the milk to 2 1/2 cups. Add 1/2 cup brandy along with the milk. Be careful—the brandy may flame. If it does, cover the pan immediately to put out the fire.

DIJON SHRIMP À LA KING Add 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard with the Worcestershire sauce.

FLORENTINE SHRIMP À LA KING Substitute one 10-ounce package frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed of excess moisture, for the mixed vegetables.

SEAFOOD À LA KING Reduce the shrimp to 1/2 pound. Cook 1/2 pound sea scallops, cut in half, with the remaining shrimp. Add 1/2 pound lump crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage, with the cooked shrimp and scallops.

SOUTH OF THE BORDER SHRIMP À LA KING Omit the Worcestershire sauce. Increase the Tabasco sauce to 6 to 8 dashes, and add 2 teaspoons oregano, 1 teaspoon pure chile powder, and 1 teaspoon cumin with it.

SPANISH SHRIMP À LA KING Omit the Worcestershire and Tabasco sauces. Add1/4 teaspoon saffron threads with the milk. Replace the vegetables with one 10-ounce package frozen peas, thawed.

Shrimp Alfredo

IN 1927, DOUGLAS FAIRBANKS and Mary Pickford were on their honeymoon in Rome when a photographer caught them eating a pasta dish of noodles with cheese and butter at a modest trattoria, Alfredo’s. The U.S. press picked up the story, and Fettuccine Alfredo became an instant craze—with one difference. A savvy studio publicist didn’t want the stars seen eating such simple fare, so cream was added to the reported recipe. We’ve added shrimp to make this classic even more luxurious. MAKES 6 SERVINGS

1 pound dried fettuccine

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter

1 pound small shrimp (more than 55 per pound), peeled and deveined

1 cup heavy cream

3/4 cup coarsely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (about 3 ounces)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

  1. Bring 6 quarts salted water to boil in a large pot over high heat. Add the pasta and cook according to the package directions until al dente, usually 6 to 8 minutes.
  2. Meanwhile, in a saucepan large enough to cook the shrimp and eventually hold the pasta, melt the butter over medium heat.
  3. Add the shrimp and stir to coat them with butter. Add the cream and bring it to a simmer. Cook, stirring frequently, until the shrimp are pink and the cream is slightly thickened, about 3 minutes. Turn off the heat.
  4. Drain the pasta and add it to the pan with the shrimp. Turn the heat to medium and cook, stirring and tossing, until the sauce is bubbling and the pasta is well coated.
  5. Add the cheese and continue tossing until the cheese is melted and the sauce is smooth, about 1 minute. Add the salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

BLUE CHEESE SHRIMP ALFREDO Reduce the Parmigiano-Reggiano to 1/2 cup and add 1/4 cup crumbled blue cheese (such as Gorgonzola, about 2 ounces) with it.

FOUR-CHEESE SHRIMP ALFREDO Reduce the Parmigiano-Reggiano to 1/4 cup, and add 1/4 cup grated Asiago (about 2 ounces), 1/4 cup crumbled blue cheese (such as Gorgonzola, about 2 ounces), and 1/4 cup diced Fontina (about 2 ounces) with it.

ROCK SHRIMP ALFREDO Substitute 1 pound peeled and cleaned rock shrimp for the small shrimp.

SHRIMP ALFREDO BASILICA Add 1/4 cup shredded basil with the cooked pasta.

SHRIMP ALFREDO CARBONARA Add 1 cup crumbled cooked bacon (about 6 strips) with the cooked shrimp.

SHRIMP ALFREDO FLORENTINE Add one 10-ounce package frozen spinach, thawed and squeezed of excess moisture, with the cream.

SHRIMP ALFREDO ROMANA Add 1 cup fresh or thawed frozen peas with the cream.

SHRIMP ALFREDO WITH MUSHROOMS Sauté 2 cups sliced button mushrooms in 2 tablespoons unsalted butter in a medium skillet over medium heat until they release their juices, about 5 minutes. Drain and add them with the cooked shrimp.

SHRIMP ALFREDO WITH SUN-DRIED TOMATOES Drain and chop 1/2 cup sun-dried tomatoes packed in oil. Add them with the cheese.

Bacon-Wrapped Shrimp

THIS DISH WAS ONCE fashionable luncheon fare in Bath, England’s upper-crust watering hole. The shrimp bundles were fried in butter and served with dollops of mayonnaise and a healthy glass of sulfured water. You’ll probably want to forgo the curative water, but bacon-wrapped shrimp still make an elegant appetizer. For a healthier take on this classic, these delicacies are broiled, but do try the Buttery Bacon-Wrapped Shrimp variation for an old-fashioned delight. There’s also a list of suggested dipping sauces following the recipe. MAKES 8 TO 10 APPETIZER SERVINGS

20 strips bacon, cut into thirds

60 medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled and deveined

8 to 10 metal skewers, or 15 bamboo or wooden skewers, soaked in water for 20 minutes

  1. Preheat the broiler.
  2. Wrap 1 piece of bacon around a shrimp and thread it on a skewer, piercing the shrimp and the bacon in two places to hold it in place. Repeat with the remaining bacon and shrimp, placing 6 to 8 shrimp on each skewer.
  3. Place the skewers on the broiler tray or a lipped baking sheet. Place under the broiler and cook for 5 minutes, turning the skewers once or twice, until the bacon is browned and crisp and the shrimp are pink and firm, about 4 minutes. (You may need to cook the shrimp in batches.)
  4. Remove the shrimp from the skewers, and serve hot, with your favorite dipping sauce.

DIPPING SAUCE IDEAS

Barbecue Sauce (page 26) • Chili con queso • Duck sauce • Hoi sin sauce • Mayonnaise (the classic British dip; some even prefer the sweeter “salad cream”) • Oyster sauce, diluted by half with water • Plum sauce (available in many Asian markets) • Ranch dressing or Thousand Island dressing (buy a good-quality brand, such as one from the refrigerator section of your supermarket)

BUTTERY BACON-WRAPPED SHRIMP Instead of broiling the shrimp, melt 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter in a skillet large enough to hold several skewers. Use bamboo or wooden skewers only, since metal will be too long. Fry the bacon-wrapped shrimp in batches, turning once or twice until the bacon browns and the shrimp are pink and firm, about 4 minutes. This technique can also be used for any of the following variations.

CHEESY BACON-WRAPPED SHRIMP Before wrapping them in the bacon, roll the shrimp in 2 cups freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (about 8 ounces) until well coated.

CRACKED PEPPER BACON-WRAPPED SHRIMP Before wrapping them in the bacon, roll the shrimp in 1 cup cracked black peppercorns until well coated.

ROSEMARY BACON-WRAPPED SHRIMP Before wrapping them in the bacon, roll the shrimp in 1 cup chopped rosemary until well coated.

STUFFED BACON-WRAPPED SHRIMP Place any (or all) of the following ingredients on or around each shrimp before you roll them in bacon.

A thin slice of Cheddar (sharp, aged, or mild)

A slice of pickled or fresh jalapeño pepper

A sliced almond

A thin strip of seeded green or red bell pepper

A thin slice of peeled ginger

Shrimp Balls

YOU’LL NEED TO PLAN ahead for this dish, because the glutinous rice must soak at least 8 hours, or overnight. Glutinous rice, which absorbs twice its weight in water when soaked and cooked, produces the prized sticky coating for these savory appetizers. (Do not substitute long- or short-grain rice.) Serve these toothsome morsels as cocktail-party nibbles or as a side dish for an Asian-inspired menu. Glutinous rice is available in Asian markets and by mail-order (see the Source Guide, page 239). MAKES 12 PIECES

1 1/3 cups glutinous rice

1/2 pound small shrimp (more than 55 per pound), peeled and deveined

4 shiitake mushrooms, stems removed and discarded, caps cleaned and finely chopped

1 large egg white

1 teaspoon minced ginger

1 scallion, white part only, minced

1 tablespoon soy sauce

Vegetable oil for the steamer

  1. Place the rice in a large bowl and cover with water by at least 3 inches. Set aside to soak for at least 8 hours, or overnight.
  2. Line a baking sheet with three layers of paper towels. Drain the rice and spread it evenly on the towels, which will absorb any excess water.
  3. Combine the shrimp, mushrooms, egg white, ginger, scallion, and soy sauce in a food processor and pulse 4 or 5 times, scraping down the bowl as necessary. Then process the mixture until a smooth paste is formed, about 1 minute. Transfer to a bowl.
  4. Shape tablespoonfuls of the paste into balls and roll them in the rice, covering them completely.
  5. Lightly oil the bottom of a bamboo steamer tray. Place the balls 1 inch apart in the steamer tray. Use as many steamer trays as necessary, stacking them on top of one another, to hold all the shrimp balls.
  6. Choose a pot that will allow the steamer to rest snugly on its upper rim so no steam will escape. Fill the pot with an inch or so of water and bring it to a simmer. Cover the top of the bamboo steamer, place it over the pot, and steam for 15 minutes. Alternatively, you can use a standard metal vegetable steamer basket. Oil the basket and fill it with as many shrimp balls as will fit in one layer without touching. Place the basket in a pot with 1/2 inch of simmering water, cover, and steam for 15 minutes. Repeat the process until all the shrimp balls are steamed.

ALMOND SHRIMP BALLS Form each shrimp ball around a blanched whole almond.

CASHEW SHRIMP BALLS Form each shrimp ball around a salted roasted cashew.

DOUBLE SHRIMP BALLS Add 1 tablespoon dried shrimp to the food processor with the shrimp.

FIERY SHRIMP BALLS Add 1 teaspoon chili oil, or more to taste, to the food processor with the shrimp. When forming the balls, stick a hot red pepper (such as a Thai hot pepper or a dried red Asian pepper) into each ball for a handle.

FIVE-SPICE SHRIMP BALLS Add 1 teaspoon five-spice powder to the food processor with the shrimp.

GARLIC SHRIMP BALLS Omit the ginger; add 2 garlic cloves, peeled, to the food processor with the shrimp.

GINGERY SHRIMP BALLS Double (or even triple) the amount of ginger.

NUTTY SHRIMP BALLS Add 1 cup drained canned water chestnuts to the food processor with the shrimp.

SESAME SHRIMP BALLS Add 2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil and 1 teaspoon hoi sin sauce to the food processor with the shrimp.

THAI SHRIMP BALLS Add 1/2 cup tightly packed basil leaves and 2 teaspoons fish sauce to the food processor with the shrimp.

Barbecued Shrimp

SHRIMP ON THE BARBY. Long before it was a slogan for Australian tourism, it was a staple in Texas. Large shrimp work best because the meat-to-sauce ratio is significantly higher, but you can use medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound). Thread the smaller shrimp on metal or soaked bamboo skewers so that turning and handling them are easier. The sweet-and-hot barbecue sauce can be made up to 1 week in advance—it’s also perfect for ribs, chicken, or burgers. MAKES 6 TO 8 APPETIZER SERVINGS OR 4 MAIN-COURSE SERVINGS

FOR THE BARBECUE SAUCE

1 1/2 cups ketchup

1 large onion, very finely chopped

1/2 cup fresh lemon juice

1/4 cup cider vinegar

1/4 cup dark rum (such as Myers’s)

1/4 cup packed light brown sugar

1/4 cup unsulfured molasses

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1 tablespoon dry mustard

3 dashes Tabasco sauce, or more to taste

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

1/4 teaspoon liquid smoke (optional)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 pounds large shrimp (12 to 15 per pound), peeled, leaving the final segment of the tail shell intact, and deveined

  1. To prepare the barbecue sauce, combine the ketchup, onion, lemon juice, vinegar, rum, brown sugar, molasses, Worcestershire, mustard, Tabasco sauce, cloves, and the liquid smoke, if desired, in a large saucepan over medium heat. Stir until the sugar is completely dissolved and the mixture comes to a simmer.
  2. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes, or until the sauce is thickened and the onion is soft. Season with salt and pepper. Allow the sauce to cool before using. (The sauce can be made up to 1 week ahead and kept tightly covered in the refrigerator. Bring it back to room temperature before using.)
  3. To prepare the shrimp, light the coals in the barbecue at least 20 minutes before you’re ready to cook the shrimp. Or if you’re using a gas grill or the broiler, preheat it 5 minutes before you’re ready to cook.
  4. Transfer half the barbecue sauce to a small bowl for serving with the shrimp; set aside.
  5. When the coals are glowing red with a thin covering of ash, place the rack on the barbecue. One or two at a time, hold the shrimp by the tail and dip them into the remaining sauce, then lay the shrimp on the barbecue rack directly over the coals. Cook for 2 minutes, then turn with metal tongs or a spatula, and cook until the shrimp are firm and the sauce is starting to brown, about 2 more minutes. Or, if you’re using the broiler, lay the dipped shrimp on a baking sheet and place them 4 inches from the flame. Cook for 2 minutes per side, or until they are firm and the sauce is starting to brown.
  6. Serve the shrimp with the reserved barbecue sauce on the side.

BARBECUED SHRIMP-AND-VEGETABLE KEBABS Thread the plain shrimp onto metal or soaked bamboo or wooden skewers, placing a 2-inch vegetable chunk in between each shrimp. Depending on the size of the shrimp, the quantity of shrimp and vegetables on each skewer will vary. Use as many skewers as necessary. Brush the entire kebabs with the sauce before cooking. Vegetable suggestions: thick zucchini slices, eggplant cubes, bell pepper (green, yellow, or red) chunks, sweet red onion quarters, or whole mushrooms.

CHINESE BARBECUED SHRIMP Substitute hoi sin sauce for the ketchup and add 1 teaspoon five-spice powder to sauce.

FIERY BARBECUED SHRIMP Increase the vinegar to 1/3 cup and add 1/4 cup finely chopped pickled jalapeño peppers to the sauce.

HONEY BARBECUED SHRIMP Omit the brown sugar and molasses and add 1/2 cup honey to the sauce.

ISLAND COCONUT BARBECUED SHRIMP Substitute 1/2 cup lime juice for the lemon juice. Sprinkle the shrimp generously with shredded coconut after dipping them in the sauce. Sprinkle on additional coconut, if desired, after cooking.

PINEAPPLE BARBECUED SHRIMP Add 1/2 cup canned crushed pineapple, drained, to the sauce.

Beer Batter Shrimp

THIS RESTAURANT FAVORITE IS perfect for a Sunday afternoon ball game or a Friday night bridge party. Other recipes often call for flat beer, but this one calls for fresh beer full of bubbles to lighten the batter. Wheat beers work particularly well. Even some flavored beers, like cardamom-orange-scented Heffeweisse, can add an interesting taste. But avoid fruity or berry-laced brews. MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

8 cups peanut oil or vegetable oil

1 cup all-purpose flour

2 1/2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 large egg, lightly beaten

1 cup beer, at room temperature (but not flat)

2 pounds medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled and deveined

  1. Pour the oil into a large saucepan at least 4 inches deep and 10 inches in diameter; the oil should be at least 1 1/2 inches deep but reach no more than halfway up the sides of the pan. Alternatively, fill an electric deep fryer with oil according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If you’re using a pan, clip a deep-frying thermometer to the inside and place the pan over medium heat. Heat the oil to 375°F. Adjust the heat to maintain that temperature while you prepare the shrimp. If you’re using an electric deep fryer, set the temperature control to 375°F.
  2. Combine the flour, 1 teaspoon of the salt, the baking powder, and pepper in a large mixing bowl. Whisk until well combined. Add the egg and beer and whisk until the batter is completely smooth.
  3. Dip 1 shrimp into the batter until it is completely coated. Let any excess batter drip off, then gently slide the shrimp into the hot oil. Repeat with the remaining shrimp, dipping and frying only as many at a time as will fit in the pan in one layer without crowding. Fry the shrimp until lightly golden, 1 to 2 minutes, turning occasionally with metal tongs. Remove the shrimp from the oil and drain them on paper towels.
  4. While they’re hot, sprinkle the shrimp with the remaining 1 1/2 teaspoons salt. Serve immediately with the dipping sauce of your choice.

EASY DIPPING SAUCE SUGGESTIONS

Most of these can be purchased; the others are easy to make.

Balsamic vinegar • Barbecue Sauce (page 26) • Blue Cheese Dip (page 50) • Bottled pasta sauce • Szechwan Cold Garlic Sauce (page 194) • Duck sauce • Honey mustard • Hot mustard • Italian dressing • Ketchup • Lemon Sauce (page 106) • Malt vinegar • Mango chutney Peanut Sauce (page 166) • Ranch dressing • Salsa • Sesame Dipping Sauce (page 203) • Tartar Sauce (page 51) • Thousand Island dressing

Bell Pepper Shrimp

SHRIMP WITH BELL PEPPERS is a Chinese-American classic. With its piquant sauce, this simple stir-fry makes a satisfying midweek meal, a quick weekend lunch, or a wonderful addition to an Asian buffet. Remember this trick for a perfect stir-fry: heat the pan before you add the oil. Serve this dish with generous bowls of white or brown rice. MAKES 4 SERVINGS

2 tablespoons sherry

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon oyster sauce

1 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup canned or homemade chicken stock

1 tablespoon peanut oil

1 scallion, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon minced ginger

1 garlic clove, minced

2 green bell peppers, cored, seeded, and cut into 1-inch pieces

1 pound small shrimp (more than 55 per pound), peeled and deveined, or precooked cocktail shrimp, thawed and peeled

2 teaspoons cornstarch, dissolved in 2 teaspoons water

Toasted sesame oil to taste

  1. Combine the sherry, soy sauce, oyster sauce, sugar, pepper, and chicken stock in a small bowl; set aside.
  2. Place a large wok or skillet over high heat. When the pan is very hot, add the oil. Swirl to coat the pan, then quickly add the scallion, ginger, and garlic. Cook, stirring constantly, for 10 seconds. Add the peppers and cook, stirring constantly, for 30 seconds.
  3. Add the raw shrimp if using, and cook, stirring and tossing with two wooden spoons or long-handled heatproof spatulas, until the shrimp are firm and pink, about 3 minutes. If you’re using precooked cocktail shrimp, omit this step.
  4. Add the sherry mixture to the wok. Bring the sauce to a boil, stirring occasionally. If you’re using precooked shrimp, add them now and stir to heat.
  5. Add the cornstarch mixture and stir constantly until the sauce is thickened, about 30 seconds. Take the pan off the heat at once, and serve immediately.

BELL PEPPER SHRIMP WITH ALMONDS Add 1/2 cup slivered almonds with the raw shrimp.

BELL PEPPER SHRIMP WITH BEAN THREAD NOODLES Soak two 2-ounce packages of bean thread noodles in boiling water for 15 minutes. Drain thoroughly. Use them as a bed for the stir-fry, rather than rice.

BELL PEPPER SHRIMP WITH PEANUTS Add 1/2 cup unsalted roasted peanuts with the raw shrimp.

BELL PEPPER SHRIMP WITH SAUSAGE Add 1/2 pound sliced hot Italian sausage, cooked, with the raw shrimp.

CANTONESE BELL PEPPER SHRIMP Increase the garlic to 3 cloves and use 1/4 cup thinly sliced peeled ginger.

HOT PEPPER SHRIMP Replace 1 of the bell peppers with a sliced, seeded, and stemmed poblano chile.

RAINBOW BELL PEPPER SHRIMP Use any mixture of peppers: yellow, red, orange, and/or green.

SZECHWAN BELL PEPPER SHRIMP Add 1 to 2 teaspoons chili oil and 1/2 teaspoon sugar with the scallion. Add 1/2 pound ground pork with the peppers, and stir and toss for 2 minutes before adding the shrimp.

Shrimp Bengalese Stew

THIS RICH DISH IS a shrimpy take on the ginger-and-coconut-milk stew found in Calcutta’s open-air markets. Of course, devout Hindus would never eat shrimp, so to honor that tradition, we offer a vegetarian variation with tofu. Serve this stew on a bed of fragrant rice: jasmine, basmati, or Texmati. MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

3 tablespoons unsalted butter; or 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, if using precooked shrimp

1 1/2 pounds medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled and deveined, or precooked cocktail shrimp, thawed and peeled

1 small onion, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, minced

1 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 tablespoons minced ginger

1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg

1 tomato, coarsely chopped

3/4 cup fish stock or clam juice

1/2 cup ground almonds

1/2 cup coconut milk

Juice of 1/2 lime

  1. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add the raw shrimp, if using, and cook, stirring often, until pink and firm, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer the shrimp to a large bowl and set it aside. If you’re using precooked cocktail shrimp, skip to step 2.
  2. Place the pan back over medium heat and add 1 tablespoon butter. Add the onion and garlic; saute until softened, about 2 minutes.
  3. Add the salt, ginger, and nutmeg; cook, stirring constantly, for 30 seconds. Immediately add the tomatoes and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens slightly, about 2 minutes.
  4. Add the fish stock and bring to a simmer. Add the ground almonds and stir until they thicken the sauce, about 1 minute. Immediately add the coconut milk and cook, stirring gently, until the sauce comes back to a simmer. Add the cooked shrimp and cook until the sauce is bubbling and the shrimp are heated through.
  5. Remove the pan from the heat, add the lime juice, and stir well. Serve immediately.

CURRIED SHRIMP BENGALESE STEW Omit the ginger and nutmeg. Add 2 teaspoons curry powder with the salt.

SCALLOP AND SHRIMP BENGALESE STEW Add 1 pound scallops, sliced in half, with the raw shrimp.

SPICY SHRIMP BENGALESE STEW Add 1/2 cup tightly packed, shredded basil and 1 teaspoon chili oil, or more to taste, with the coconut milk.

VEGETABLE AND SHRIMP BENGALESE STEW Add 1 cup diced celery, 1/2 cup diced carrots, and 1/2 cup green beans cut into 2-inch segments, with the tomatoes.

VEGETARIAN BENGALESE STEW Omit the shrimp. Add 1 pound silken tofu, cut into 1/2-inch dice, and one 10-ounce package frozen mixed vegetables, thawed, with the coconut milk.

Shrimp Bisque

THIS BISQUE FOLLOWS THE traditional French preparation, rather than the modern New Orleans version. When first introduced in France in the 1750s, a bisque was a shellfish purée added to quail or pigeon soups as a flavor enhancer, much the way pesto is sometimes swirled into Mediterranean soups. In the nineteenth century, French aristocrats began to enjoy this thickener on its own, with cream added, to make it a full course. Serve this creamy, velvety soup with a loaf of crusty bread and a vinegary salad of tomatoes, celery, and toasted pecans. MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 pound small shrimp (more than 55 per pound), peeled and deveined, shells reserved

6 cups fish stock or 4 cups vegetable stock plus 2 cups clam juice

2 large shallots, minced

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons sweet paprika

1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg

1 cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons dry vermouth

1/4 cup minced chives

  1. Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a large saucepan or pot over medium heat. Add the reserved shells and cook, stirring constantly, until they turn pink, about 2 minutes.
  2. Add the stock, raise the heat to high, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover the pan, and simmer for 10 minutes.
  3. Meanwhile, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in another large saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the shallots and cook, stirring constantly, until softened, about 2 minutes.
  4. Add the flour to the shallots and whisk until it is completely incorporated into the melted butter. Cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Do not allow the mixture to brown.
  5. Strain the shrimp stock into the pan with the shallots and whisk until the soup thickens, about 2 minutes. Add the shrimp and cook until they are pink and firm, about 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat.
  6. Purée the soup, in batches if necessary, in a food processor or blender until completely smooth. Rinse out the pan, return the soup to it, and whisk in the paprika, nutmeg, and cream. Bring the soup back to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes, stirring often.
  7. Remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the vermouth and chives; serve immediately.

CURRIED SHRIMP BISQUE Omit the paprika and nutmeg. Add 2 teaspoons curry powder with the cream.

HERBED SHRIMP BISQUE Omit the paprika and nutmeg. Add 3 tablespoons chopped parsley, 2 teaspoons chopped tarragon, and 1/2 teaspoon minced thyme with the shallots. If desired, top each bowl of soup with 1 teaspoon (or more) flavored oil, such as basil oil or black pepper oil.

HOT HUNGARIAN SHRIMP BISQUE Omit the nutmeg. Substitute 1 to 2 teaspoons hot Hungarian paprika for the sweet paprika, and add 1 teaspoon dry mustard with the cream.

NEW ORLEANS SHRIMP BISQUE Add 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper with the cream, then add 1/2 cup diced celery and 1/2 cup diced green bell pepper; cook, stirring often, for 10 minutes.

SHRIMP BISQUE WITH CLAMS Add 12 medium clams (such as cherrystone or Pacific littleneck), scrubbed, with the cream. Cover and cook over low heat until the clams open, about 7 minutes.

SHRIMP BISQUE WITH MUSSELS Add 1 pound mussels, scrubbed and debearded, with the cream. Cover and cook over low heat until the mussels open, about 5 minutes.

SHRIMP VICHYSSOISE Cook 2 pounds new potatoes, peeled and cut into cubes, in the stock-and-shallot mixture until they are tender, then add and cook the shrimp. Omit the paprika and increase the vermouth to 1/2 cup. Chill the soup thoroughly, for at least 8 hours. Serve cold in small cups.

Black Bean Shrimp

A STAPLE IN SOUTHERN CHINA, these dried black beans are actually fermented soybeans (page 10). Their pungent, salty taste softens considerably when they are heated in a sauce. Peanut oil also gives this dish its distinctive taste (vegetable oil can be substituted if food allergies are an issue). As with any stir-fry, do all your preparation before you start cooking—the steps move very quickly. Serve this dish over steaming rice or bean thread noodles soaked in boiling water for 15 minutes, or until transparent. MAKES 4 SERVINGS

1 pound medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled and deveined

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

1 tablespoon sherry

3 tablespoons peanut oil

3 scallions, minced

1 tablespoon minced ginger

1 garlic clove, minced

1 red (or green) bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into 1-inch pieces

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup dried, salted, Chinese black beans, slightly crushed with the side of a chef’s knife or the bottom of a small pot

1/3 cup canned or homemade chicken stock

1 tablespoon oyster sauce

2 teaspoons cornstarch, dissolved in 1 tablespoon water

  1. Combine the shrimp, soy sauce, sesame oil, and sherry in a medium bowl. Toss until the shrimp are well coated. Set aside to marinate for 30 minutes.
  2. Heat 2 tablespoons of the peanut oil in a large wok or skillet (preferably nonstick) over high heat. When the oil is hot but not smoking, add the shrimp with their marinade and cook, stirring constantly, until pink and firm, about 3 minutes. Transfer the shrimp to a bowl or plate and set aside.
  3. Return the wok to high heat and add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Add the scallion, ginger, and garlic; cook, stirring constantly, for 20 seconds. Add the bell pepper and black pepper and cook, stirring and tossing constantly, for 2 minutes, or until the bell pepper begins to soften.
  4. Return the shrimp to the wok, along with the black beans, chicken stock, and oyster sauce. Stir and toss until the sauce is bubbling and the shrimp are heated through, 1 to 2 minutes.
  5. Pour the cornstarch mixture into the wok and stir until the sauce thickens, about 10 seconds. Serve hot.

MANGO BLACK BEAN SHRIMP Add 1 large mango, peeled, pitted, and coarsely chopped, with the bell pepper.

PINEAPPLE BLACK BEAN SHRIMP Add 1 cup canned pineapple chunks, drained, with the bell pepper.

SCALLOPS AND BLACK BEAN SHRIMP Reduce the shrimp to 1/2 pound and add 1/2 pound sea scallops, cut in half, to the marinade.

SPICY BLACK BEAN SHRIMP Increase the ginger to 2 tablespoons. Add 1 teaspoon chili sauce, or more, with the black beans.

SWEET BLACK BEAN SHRIMP Omit the oyster sauce, and add 1 tablespoon hoi sin sauce and 1 teaspoon sugar with the black beans.

SZECHWAN BLACK BEAN SHRIMP Add 1 banana, thickly sliced, with the bell pepper. Add 1 teaspoon chili sauce, or more, and 1/2 teaspoon sugar with the black beans.

Black Pepper Caramel Shrimp

THIS SWEET-AND-HOT SAUCE, a surprising combination of French technique and Southeast Asian sensibilities, has long been considered a harbinger of good luck (and an aphrodisiac) by many Vietnamese. Bowls of fluffy white or nutty brown rice will help cut the heat—but it’s best to avoid a rice with an intense aroma, like jasmine, since the point of the dish is the fragrant sauce. MAKES 4 SERVINGS

3 tablespoons peanut oil

1 pound medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled and deveined, or precooked cocktail shrimp, thawed and peeled

6 garlic cloves, minced

2 1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons fish sauce

1/4 cup canned or homemade, chicken stock

3 tablespoons Caramel Syrup (recipe follows)

  1. Set a large wok or skillet over medium-high heat and allow it to heat thoroughly, about 3 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons of the oil and swirl to coat the pan. Add the raw shrimp, if using, and cook, stirring constantly, until pink and firm, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the shrimp to a bowl and set aside.
  2. Add 1 tablespoon oil to the wok and set it back over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until it begins to brown, about 1 minute. Immediately add the pepper and cook for 10 seconds.
  3. Raise the heat to high, add the fish sauce and chicken stock, and bring to a boil. Add the caramel syrup and stir constantly until the syrup dissolves in the sauce, then return the sauce to a boil.
  4. Add the cooked shrimp. Toss and stir until the sauce is bubbling and the shrimp are heated through, about 1 minute. Serve immediately.

Caramel Syrup

SINCE THIS SYRUP WILL keep for months, you can make Black Pepper Caramel Shrimp whenever you want. The syrup is also delightful over ice cream—or mix it in a ratio of one to three with vanillaflavored vodka for a golden caramel martini. MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

1 cup sugar

2/3 cup boiling water

Place the sugar in a large heavy skillet over high heat and stir constantly until the sugar completely melts and turns amber; it should resemble maple syrup. Immediately remove the pan from the heat and add the water. Be careful: the syrup will boil wildly and splatter when you add the water, so stir in water with a long-handled wooden spoon to avoid burns. Some of the syrup may seize into a hard clump on the bottom of the pan. If this happens, place the pan back over low heat and stir until the caramel is dissolved and the syrup is smooth. Let cool completely. (The syrup can be kept covered at room temperature for up to 3 months.)

BANANA BLACK PEPPER CARAMEL SHRIMP Add 1 large banana, thinly sliced, with the fish sauce.

BLACK PEPPER CARAMEL ROCK SHRIMP Substitute 1 pound peeled and cleaned rock shrimp for the medium shrimp.

BLACK PEPPER CARAMEL SHRIMP AND BEEF Reduce the shrimp to 1/2 pound, and stir-fry 1/2 pound thinly sliced top round or sirloin with the shrimp.

CINNAMON BLACK PEPPER CARAMEL SHRIMP Add 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon with the black pepper.

MALAYSIAN-INSPIRED BLACK PEPPER CARAMEL SHRIMP Add 1 tablespoon tamarind syrup (see Source Guide, page 239) and 1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg with the fish sauce.

SPICY BLACK PEPPER CARAMEL SHRIMP Add 1 green or red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and sliced, with the garlic. Add 2 tablespoons minced ginger and 1/4 cup tightly packed chopped basil with the fish sauce.

Bon Bon Shrimp

NORMAN WEINSTEIN, A NEW YORK LEGEND, has led informative and opinionated tours of the Chinatowns in Manhattan and Queens for decades. Years ago, a staple of his Szechwan cooking class was Bon Bon Chicken, a zippy main course that fused East and West. This version is updated a bit—and includes shrimp, of course. Served at room temperature, it is a wonderful summer dinner, a simple luncheon entrée, or even a great midnight snack. MAKES 4 APPETIZER SERVINGS OR 2 MAIN-COURSE SERVINGS

Two 2-ounce packages dried bean thread noodles

1 pound large shrimp (about 12 to 15 per pound), peeled and deveined, or precooked cocktail shrimp, thawed and peeled

1/4 cup toasted sesame oil

3 tablespoons peanut butter

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons black vinegar

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon chili oil, or to taste

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or more to taste

2 large cucumbers, peeled, seeded, and thinly sliced

  1. Place the noodles in a large bowl and cover them with boiling water. Set aside to soften for at least 15 minutes.
  2. If using raw shrimp, bring 2 quarts salted water to a boil in a large pot over high heat. Fill a large bowl halfway with ice water and set it aside. Add the shrimp to the boiling water and cook until pink and firm, about 5 minutes. Remove the shrimp with a slotted spoon or a strainer; place them in the ice water to chill. Drain the shrimp and blot dry with paper towels. Set aside.
  3. Whisk the sesame oil, peanut butter, soy sauce, black vinegar, sugar, chili oil, and pepper in a medium bowl until completely smooth.
  4. Drain the noodles and rinse them with cold water. Squeeze them with your hands to remove as much excess water as possible. Place the noodles on a large serving platter. Mound the sliced cucumber on top of the noodles, and lay the shrimp on top. Drizzle the platter with the sauce and serve immediately.

BON BON SHRIMP AND CRAB Reduce the shrimp to 1/2 pound. Mound 1/2 pound lump crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage, with the shrimp.

BON BON SHRIMP AND SCALLOPS Reduce the shrimp to 1/2 pound. Mound1/2 pound sea scallops, cut in half and cooked with the shrimp.

COCONUT BON BON SHRIMP Whisk 1/4 cup unsweetened coconut milk with the sesame oil.

CRUNCHY BON BON SHRIMP Use crunchy peanut butter, and add 1/4 cup unsalted peanuts with the sesame oil.

SAVORY BON BON SHRIMP Substitute flavored oil, such as black pepper oil or basil oil, for the sesame oil.

Shrimp Bread Pudding

A RICH, SATISFYING CASSEROLE, shrimp bread pudding can stand on its own as a main course or be served on a buffet with a standing rib roast and steamed greens. It’s even good cold the next day. MAKES 10 TO 12 SERVINGS

4 cups Court Bouillon (recipe follows), or 2 cups fish stock, plus 2 cups vegetable stock

3 pounds small shrimp (over 55 per pound), peeled and deveined, or medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled, deveined, and cut in half

Three day-old 12-inch loaves French bread, cut into 1-inch slices

2 cups whole milk

2 large eggs

2 tablespoons paprika

1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

1 pound crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage

2 cups Gruyere, shredded (about1/2 pound)

  1. Bring the Court Bouillon to a simmer in a large saucepan over high heat. Add one-third of the shrimp and cook until pink, about 3 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon or a strainer and place in a large bowl. Bring the court bouillon back to a simmer and repeat with the remaining shrimp in two batches. Set the shrimp aside.
  2. Place the bread in a large bowl. Bring the court bouillon back to a boil and boil for 15 minutes, or until reduced by half. Remove the pan from the heat and add the milk. Pour over the bread and let soak for 1 hour.
  3. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Generously butter a 6-quart casserole or 9 × 13-inch baking pan.
  4. Crack the eggs into a medium bowl. Add the paprika and Tabasco sauce; beat lightly, just until the eggs are foamy.
  5. Add the beaten eggs to the bread mixture, along with the shrimp, melted butter, crabmeat, and half of the cheese. Mix until well blended.
  6. Spread the shrimp mixture into the prepared casserole and sprinkle the top with the remaining cheese. Bake for 30 minutes, or until hot, bubbly, and golden brown.

Court Bouillon

COURT BOUILLON can be stored for up to 5 days, tightly covered, in the refrigerator or frozen for up to 2 months. MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART

2 cups dry white wine

2 cups water

1 cup clam juice

3 small onions, peeled

3 bay leaves

3 sprigs dill

3 sprigs parsley

5 whole peppercorns

1 tablespoon salt

1 teaspoon chopped oregano

  1. Place all of the ingredients in a large pan. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 10 minutes.
  2. Strain the court bouillon through a fine sieve into a large bowl. Return it to the pan for the Shrimp Bread Pudding, or cool, cover, and refrigerate until ready to use.

CHEESY SHRIMP BREAD PUDDING Mix 2 cups grated firm sheep’s milk cheese (such as Manchego, about 1/2 pound) with the Gruyère before adding to the dish.

CHILEAN CHUPE Increase the Tabasco sauce to 2 teaspoons. Add 2 teaspoons chopped oregano with the crabmeat. Spread half the shrimp mixture in the prepared baking dish. Top with a layer of 4 thinly sliced hard-boiled eggs, and then with the remaining shrimp mixture.

GREEK-INSPIRED SHRIMP BREAD PUDDING Omit the Gruyère and replace it with 2 cups diced feta (about 1/2 pound). Add 3 tablespoons capers, drained, and the grated zest of 1 lemon with the crabmeat.

HEARTY SEAFOOD BREAD PUDDING Add 1 pound of raw fish fillets (such as turbot or red snapper), cubed, with the crabmeat. Increase the cheese to 3 cups.

LOBSTER AND SHRIMP BREAD PUDDING Replace the crabmeat with 1 pound cooked lobster, chopped.

Shrimp Brunswick Stew

NAMED AFTER BRUNSWICK COUNTY, Virginia, this dish got its start as an antebellum stew of squirrel and onions. Traditionally, the roux was light, never cooked to a deep brown as it is in a New Orleans étouffée, because the richness of a dark roux would have overpowered the gamy meat. As tastes have changed, the meat has too—usually to chicken—and many other vegetables, such as okra and lima beans, have been added to the pot. In the South, Brunswick stew is often served over mashed potatoes; you might want to forgo the starch and simply let the hearty dish stand on its own. Leftovers will be terrific the next day—or freeze them, in individual servings, for up to a month. MAKES 6 TO 8 LARGE SERVINGS

1/4 cup peanut oil

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1 large onion, finely chopped

2 celery stalks, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 teaspoons chopped thyme

1 teaspoon salt

2 cups canned or homemade chicken or vegetable broth

One 28-ounce can peeled tomatoes, chopped, with their juice

One 10-ounce package frozen sliced okra

One 10-ounce package frozen lima beans

2 pounds small shrimp (more than 55 per pound), peeled and deveined

1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce, or more to taste

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

  1. Heat the peanut oil in a large heavy pot or a Dutch oven over medium-low heat. Add the flour and whisk until completely incorporated. Continue to cook, stirring or whisking often, until the mixture is lightly browned, about 4 minutes.
  2. Add the onion, celery, and garlic and cook, stirring constantly, for 5 minutes, or until the vegetables soften and the flour mixture is golden. Stir in the thyme and salt; cook, stirring constantly, for 30 seconds.
  3. Whisk in the broth, then continue to whisk until the sauce is smooth and thickens. Add the tomatoes, okra, and lima beans and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low, cover the pot, and cook for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.
  4. Add the shrimp and stir until they are well incorporated, then cook, stirring once or twice, until firm and pink, about 3 minutes. Add the Tabasco sauce and pepper. Turn off the heat, cover the pot, and let the stew sit for 5 minutes before serving.

BUTTERY SHRIMP BRUNSWICK STEW Replace the peanut oil with 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter.

HEARTY SHRIMP BRUNSWICK STEW Reduce the shrimp to 1 pound. Add 1/2 pound Italian sausage, cut into 1-inch slices and browned, with the shrimp.

ROCK SHRIMP BRUNSWICK STEW Replace the regular shrimp with 2 pounds peeled and cleaned rock shrimp.

SHRIMP AND CHICKEN BRUNSWICK STEW Reduce the shrimp to 3/4 pound. Add 3/4 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1-inch cubes, with the tomatoes.

SHRIMP AND CLAM BRUNSWICK STEW Add 12 medium clams (such as cherrystone or Pacific littleneck), scrubbed, with the shrimp. Cover the stew and cook for 7 minutes, or until the clams open.

VEGETABLE SHRIMP BRUNSWICK STEW Substitute two 10-ounce packages of any frozen vegetable, either one type or any combination, such as baby carrots, corn, mixed vegetables, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, or English peas, for the okra and lima beans.

Shrimp Bruschetta

BRUSCHETTA, TOASTED BREAD REDOLENT of garlic and olive oil, is a Tuscan creation, a tasting vehicle for the new olive oil crop. (Olive oil should not be sampled alone, but in harmony with other ingredients.) Serve these little delights as quick appetizers, or with cocktails before dinner. Or take them on your next picnic. MAKES 16 PIECES

16 large shrimp (a little over a pound, at 12 to 15 shrimp per pound), peeled and deveined, or precooked cocktail shrimp, thawed and peeled

Twelve 3/4-inch-thick slices Italian or French bread

2 large tomatoes, seeded and finely chopped

1/4 cup finely chopped basil

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

5 garlic cloves, peeled

1/4 cup olive oil

  1. If using raw shrimp, bring 2 quarts salted water to a boil in a large pot over high heat. Fill a large bowl halfway with ice water and set it aside. Add the shrimp to the boiling water and cook until pink and firm, about 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon or a strainer, transfer the shrimp to the ice water and allow them to cool completely. Drain the shrimp and blot dry with paper towels. If you’re using precooked cocktail shrimp, omit this step and skip to step 2.
  2. Preheat the broiler.
  3. Place the bread on a cookie sheet and set it under the broiler just until the toasts turn light brown, about 1 minute. Turn the slices over to brown the other side, about 1 minute. Set aside to cool.
  4. Combine the tomatoes, basil, and vinegar in a food processor; pulse just until the tomatoes are finely chopped but not puréed. Add the salt and pepper and pulse once or twice more. Set aside.
  5. Rub one side of each slice of bread with the garlic (each slice should take one-quarter to one-third of a clove). Using a pastry brush, generously brush the bread with the olive oil. Top each slice with 1 tablespoon of the tomato mixture.
  6. Slice each shrimp lengthwise in half and place the halves cut side down on each slice of tomatocovered bread. Serve immediately.

ANCHOVY SHRIMP BRUSCHETTA Lay 1 anchovy fillet over the tomato mixture on each toast before topping with the shrimp.

CILANTRO SHRIMP BRUSCHETTA Replace the basil with chopped cilantro.

CURRIED SHRIMP BRUSCHETTA Omit the vinegar and substitute chopped cilantro for the basil. Add 1 tablespoon Indian curry paste to the food processor with the tomatoes.

GARLIC BREAD SHRIMP Omit the tomato-basil-vinegar mixture.

HUMMUS SHRIMP BRUSCHETTA Omit the tomato-basil-vinegar mixture. Spread 1 tablespoon purchased hummus on each garlic-rubbed toast before topping with the shrimp.

PESTO SHRIMP BRUSCHETTA Omit the tomatoes. Add 1/4 cup pine nuts and 2 tablespoons olive oil to the food processor with the basil and vinegar. Process until a paste is formed.

PIMIENTO SHRIMP BRUSCHETTA Omit the tomato-basil-vinegar mixture. Mix 2/3 cup finely chopped pimientos with 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar. Spread 2 teaspoons of the mixture on each slice of garlic-rubbed bread before topping with the shrimp.

SPICY SHRIMP BRUSCHETTA Omit the vinegar. Add 1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce, 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce, and 1 teaspoon bottled horseradish with the basil.

TANGY SHRIMP BRUSCHETTA Replace the vinegar with 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, and add 2 tablespoons drained capers to the food processor with the basil.

TAPENADE SHRIMP BRUSCHETTA Omit the tomato-basil-vinegar mixture. Spread each slice of garlic-rubbed bread with 1 tablespoon purchased olive tapenade before topping it with the shrimp.

Buffalo Shrimp

SINCE THE MID-1980S, Buffalo chicken wings have been a favorite in bars and restaurants across the United States and Canada. Hot and spicy, dipped into a tangy blue-cheese sauce—what could possibly be better? Nothing, except it’s not shrimp. The spicy coating works well with shrimp’s sweetness—a combination that practically screams for a cold beer or a glass of iced tea. Buffalo Shrimp are best served hot, right out of the pan. MAKES 4 APPETIZER SERVINGS

FOR THE BLUE CHEESE DIP

1 cup mayonnaise

1/2 cup sour cream (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

1/3 cup crumbled blue cheese (such as Danish Blue or Gorgonzola; about 2 ounces)

Juice of 1 lemon

2 teaspoons onion salt

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or more to taste

FOR THE SHRIMP

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted

1/4 cup hot sauce (such as Texas Pete or Tiger Sauce, not salsa)

8 cups peanut oil or vegetable oil

1 pound medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled, leaving the final segment of the tail shell intact, and deveined

2 cups all-purpose flour

  1. To prepare the blue cheese dip, combine the mayonnaise, sour cream, blue cheese, lemon juice, onion salt, garlic powder, and pepper in a small bowl and mix until well combined. (The dip can be prepared up to 24 hours in advance and kept covered in the refrigerator.)
  2. To prepare the shrimp, combine the melted butter and hot sauce in a large mixing bowl and set aside.
  3. Pour the oil into a large saucepan at least 4 inches deep and 10 inches in diameter; the oil should be 1 1/2 inches deep but reach no more than halfway up the sides of the pan. Alternatively, fill an electric deep fryer with oil according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If you’re using a pan, clip a deep-frying thermometer to the inside and place the pan over medium heat. Heat the oil to 375°F. Adjust the heat to maintain that temperature while you prepare the shrimp. If you’re using an electric deep fryer, set the temperature control to 375°F.
  4. Dredge the shrimp in the flour and shake off the excess. Fry the shrimp, about 10 at a time, for 1 minute, or until lightly browned. Remove the shrimp from the pan with a slotted spoon or strainer, and place on paper towels to drain.
  5. Toss the hot shrimp in the butter/hot sauce glaze, coating them completely. Serve warm with the blue cheese dipping sauce.

OTHER DIPPING SAUCES

Blue cheese sauce is the classic, but you can serve Buffalo Shrimp with any number of dipping sauces, including:

Barbecue Sauce (page 26) • Creamy Italian dressing • Ranch dressing • Thousand Island dressing • Sesame Dipping Sauce (page 203) • Szechwan Cold Garlic Sauce (page 194) • Tartar Sauce (page 51)

Butterfly Fried Shrimp

AN AMERICAN STANDARD. Butterfly refers to the technique that involves splitting the shrimp down the back and flattening the two halves so that they resemble the wings of a butterfly. Like most fried foods, the shrimp will taste best right out of the deep fryer. MAKES 4 SERVINGS

1 pound medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled, leaving the final segment of the tail shell intact, and deveined

8 cups vegetable oil

1 large egg

1/4 cup milk

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1/4 cup plain dry bread crumbs

Tartar Sauce (recipe follows)

  1. To butterfly the shrimp, begin at the neck end of each and make a long cut with a paring knife down the back curve of the shrimp, about two-thirds of the way through, stopping just before the final tail segment. (You do not want to cut the shrimp in half.) Gently open the slit with your fingers, remove any remaining parts of the vein, and flatten the shrimp by pressing it cut side down gently onto the work surface. Set aside.
  2. Pour the oil into a large saucepan at least 4 inches deep and 10 inches in diameter; the oil should be at least 1 1/2 inches deep but reach no more than halfway up the sides of the pan. Alternatively, fill an electric deep fryer with oil according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If you’re using a pan, clip a deep-frying thermometer to the inside and place the pan over medium heat. Heat the oil to 375°F. Adjust the heat to maintain that temperature while you prepare the shrimp. If you’re using an electric deep fryer, set the temperature control to 375°F.
  3. Crack the egg into a large mixing bowl. Whisk in the milk, 1/2 teaspoon of the salt, and the sugar. Continue to whisk until the mixture is frothy, then whisk in the bread crumbs.
  4. Dip a shrimp into the thin batter, then slip it into the hot oil. Repeat with the remaining shrimp, dipping and frying only as many shrimp at a time as will fit into the pan without crowding. Fry the shrimp until lightly golden, 1 to 2 minutes, turning occasionally with tongs. Remove each shrimp from the oil when it’s done and drain on paper towels.
  5. Sprinkle the shrimp with the remaining 1 teaspoon salt while they’re hot. Serve immediately, with Tartar Sauce on the side.

Tartar Sauce

1 cup mayonnaise (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley

1 tablespoon finely chopped chives

1 tablespoon finely chopped dill

1 tablespoon capers, minced

4 cornichons, minced (or 2 gherkins, minced)

Combine the mayonnaise, parsley, chives, dill, capers, and cornichons in a small bowl. Mix until well blended. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. (It will keep for up to 3 days, tightly covered in the refrigerator.)

CORNMEAL BUTTERFLY FRIED SHRIMP Replace the bread crumbs with 1/4 cup cornmeal.

INDIAN BUTTERFLY FRIED SHRIMP Add 2 teaspoons curry powder with the bread crumbs.

ITALIAN BUTTERFLY FRIED SHRIMP Add 1 teaspoon chopped oregano, 1 teaspoon chopped thyme, and 1 teaspoon chopped parsley with the bread crumbs.

JAPANESE BUTTERFLY FRIED SHRIMP Replace the plain bread crumbs with 1/4 cup Japanese-style bread crumbs (panko). After the shrimp are fried, dip them into a sauce made from 1/2 teaspoon wasabi paste and 1/4 cup soy sauce, whisked together until well blended.

MEXICAN BUTTERFLY FRIED SHRIMP Add 1 teaspoon cumin, 1 teaspoon oregano, and 2 teaspoons pure chile powder with the bread crumbs.

Shrimp Cakes

WITH A VARIETY OF FILLERS, penurious Chesapeake Bay housewives once stretched shards and threads of crabmeat (i.e., the parts their husbands couldn’t sell) into a full meal. But even crab scraps are hardly a bargain anymore. Made with shrimp, though, these luscious panfried patties can again be frugal delicacies. Serve them alongside a tossed green salad—or a bowl of strawberries macerated with a splash of balsamic vinegar. MAKES 8 CAKES

1/2 pound small shrimp (more than 55 per pound), peeled and deveined, or precooked cold-water (or baby) shrimp, thawed

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 celery stalks, minced

1 medium onion, minced

1/4 cup mayonnaise (regular or low-fat, but not fat-free)

4 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1/4 cup minced dill

4 dashes Tabasco sauce, or more to taste

2 1/4 cups plain dry bread crumbs

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

  1. If you’re using raw shrimp, bring 1 1/2 quarts salted water to a boil in a medium pot over high heat. Fill a medium bowl halfway with ice water and set it aside. Add the shrimp to the boiling water and cook until pink and firm, about 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon or a strainer, transfer the shrimp to the ice water and let cool completely. Drain the shrimp and blot dry on paper towels. If you’re using precooked shrimp, omit this step.
  2. Heat 2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in a large skillet set over medium heat. Add the celery and onion and cook, stirring often, until the onion is translucent and the celery softens, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a large mixing bowl.
  3. Add the mayonnaise, mustard, dill, Tabasco sauce, and 1/4 cup of the bread crumbs to the cooked vegetables and mix until well blended. Add the salt and pepper.
  4. Coarsely chop the shrimp and add to the mayonnaise mixture. Stir until well combined.
  5. Place the remaining 2 cups bread crumbs on a plate. Using one-eighth of the shrimp mixture (about 1/3 cup), form a shrimp cake or patty with your hands. Lay the cake on the bread crumbs and press lightly so that the bread crumbs adhere to the bottom, then turn the cake over and repeat the process on the other side. Gently roll the patty’s sides in the bread crumbs as well. The patty should be completely coated. Set the cake on a plate and repeat with the remaining shrimp mixture to make a total of 8 cakes.
  6. Pour 2 tablespoons of the remaining oil into a skillet (preferably nonstick) large enough to hold 4 cakes in one layer without crowding, and set over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add 4 cakes. If you have a very large skillet, you can cook all 8 shrimp cakes at once, using all of the oil. Fry the cakes until they are golden on the bottom, about 2 minutes. Flip them and cook for 2 more minutes, or until they are golden all over. Repeat with the remaining 2 tablespoons oil and 4 shrimp cakes.
  7. Serve the shrimp cakes hot, with Cocktail Sauce (page 62), Tartar Sauce (page 51), or purchased salsa on the side.

FLORIDA-STYLE SHRIMP CAKES Reduce the mustard to 2 teaspoons. Add the grated zest of 1 lemon and the juice of 1/2 lemon with the mayonnaise.

HERBED SHRIMP CAKES Omit the dill and Tabasco sauce. Toss 1 tablespoon minced parsley, 1 tablespoon minced thyme, and 1 tablespoon minced tarragon with the bread crumbs for coating the cakes.

LOUISIANA-STYLE SHRIMP CAKES Core, seed, and coarsely chop 1 green or red bell pepper. Sauté it with the celery and onion. Double the Tabasco sauce.

SOUTH-OF-THE-BORDER SHRIMP CAKES Omit the dill and Tabasco sauce. Seed and coarsely chop 1 jalapeño pepper. Add it with the mayonnaise, along with 1 teaspoon cumin and 1 teaspoon minced oregano.

TEXAS-STYLE SHRIMP CAKES Substitute coarsely ground saltine crackers for the bread crumbs. Add 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce with the mayonnaise.

Cashew Shrimp

A FAVORITE IN CHINESE-AMERICAN restaurants, this simple dish is a melting pot in and of itself. Cashews are indigenous to South America but are now cultivated mostly in eastern Africa. Celery made its first appearance in print in Homer’s Greek epic, The Odyssey. Ginger is indigenous to China, but is now cultivated mostly in Jamaica. And rice wine vinegar, a staple of Chinese cooking, probably originated in Thailand. Stir-fries are always cooked quickly, so have all your ingredients ready before you begin. Served over steaming white rice, this dish makes a quick lunch or a satisfying midweek dinner. Follow it up with fresh mango slices for dessert. MAKES 4 SERVINGS

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 pound medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled and deveined, or precooked cocktail shrimp, thawed and peeled

2 celery stalks, diced

2 tablespoons minced ginger

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar

1 cup unsalted cashews

  1. Heat a large wok or saucepan (preferably nonstick) over medium-high heat. The moment it begins to smoke, add the peanut oil and swirl it in the wok for 30 seconds.
  2. If using raw shrimp, add them and stir and toss constantly for 1 minute.
  3. Add the celery and cook, stirring and tossing constantly for 1 minute, or until hot but still crisp. Add the ginger, garlic, and red pepper flakes. Stir and toss for another 30 seconds.
  4. Add the soy sauce, vinegar, and the cocktail shrimp, if using. Raise the heat to high. When the sauce starts to boil, add the cashews. Stir and toss just until the nuts are well distributed and heated through. Serve immediately

BLACK BEAN CASHEW SHRIMP Reduce the soy sauce to 1 tablespoon. Add 1/4 cup dried salted Chinese black beans, slightly crushed, with the soy sauce.

CASHEW SHRIMP AND BAMBOO SHOOTS Add 1 cup canned bamboo shoots, drained, with the ginger.

CASHEW SHRIMP AND BEAN THREAD NOODLES Pour boiling water over two 2-ounce packages dried bean thread noodles. Soak for 15 minutes. Drain and add them with the soy sauce. (Do not serve over rice.)

CASHEW SHRIMP AND CARROTS Add 1 cup peeled and thinly sliced carrots with the celery.

CASHEW SHRIMP AND STRAW MUSHROOMS Add 1 cup canned straw mushrooms, drained, with the ginger.

HEARTY CASHEW SHRIMP Add 1 onion, thinly sliced into rings, with the celery. Add 1 tablespoon hoi sin sauce with the soy sauce.

MILD CASHEW SHRIMP Omit the red pepper flakes. Add 1/2 cup sliced scallions with the celery.

SWEET AND SALTY CASHEW SHRIMP Use salted cashews, and add 1 teaspoon sugar with the soy sauce.

SZECHWAN CASHEW SHRIMP Omit the red pepper flakes. Add 1 teaspoon chili oil, or more, and 1/2 teaspoon sugar with the ginger, and 1/2 cup sliced bananas with the vinegar.

Shrimp Chiffon Ring

REMEMBER THE OLD-FASHIONED CHURCH SOCIAL? The food right off your grandmother’s recipe cards? This is one of those dishes. It’s often made with crab, but it works even better with shrimp, partly because they contain plenty of natural gelatin and partly because the dish’s resulting color is so…well, pink. Shrimp Chiffon Ring makes a great dish for a book group or a work potluck. Serve it with crackers and Cocktail Sauce (page 62). MAKES 10 TO 12 SERVINGS

1 pound small shrimp (more than 55 per pound), peeled and deveined

1 envelope unflavored gelatin

3 tablespoons cold water

1 can condensed tomato soup

4 ounces cream cheese (regular or low-fat, but not fat-free), softened

1/2 cup mayonnaise (regular or low-fat, but not fat-free)

1 celery stalk, minced

2 shallots, minced Juice of 1/2 lemon

3 dashes Tabasco sauce, or more to taste

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Vegetable oil for the mold

1 pimiento, drained and cut into1/4-inch slices

  1. Bring 2 quarts of salted water to a boil in a large pot set over high heat. Fill a large bowl halfway with ice water and set it aside. Add the shrimp to the boiling water and cook until pink and firm, about 2 minutes. With a slotted spoon or a strainer, transfer the shrimp to the ice water and allow them to cool completely. Drain the shrimp and blot dry with paper towels.
  2. Place the gelatin in a large bowl and add the cold water. Set the gelatin aside to soften for 5 minutes.
  3. Set aside 6 cooked shrimp. Place the remaining shrimp in a food processor and process until very finely chopped but not puréed—the shrimp should resemble crabmeat. Set aside.
  4. Place the tomato soup in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Immediately pour the soup over the softened gelatin and stir until the gelatin dissolves completely.
  5. Add the cream cheese and mayonnaise to the bowl and beat with a whisk or a hand mixer until the mixture is smooth. Stir in the celery, shallots, lemon juice, Tabasco sauce, salt, pepper, and ground shrimp until well blended.
  6. Lightly oil a 1-quart ring mold (or any 1-quart mold, even a fish mold). Arrange the reserved shrimp and pimiento strips in the bottom of the mold in a decorative pattern (this will be the top of the ring after it’s unmolded). Without disturbing the pattern, carefully spoon the shrimp mixture into the mold, filling it as full as possible without overflowing (any extra shrimp mixture can be placed in a small oiled ramekin).
  7. Set the mold in the refrigerator for 6 to 8 hours, or until it is set.
  8. To unmold, dip the mold in a large bowl of hot water for 10 seconds. Dry the outside of the mold. Place a plate or platter larger than the mold over the top, turn them upside down together, and rap them gently on the counter to loosen the shrimp from the mold. (Repeat the dipping if necessary.) The shrimp ring should be unmolded as soon as it is set, but it can remain tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours before serving.

BASIL SHRIMP CHIFFON RING Add 1/2 cup finely shredded basil with the celery.

CURRIED SHRIMP CHIFFON RING Add 1 teaspoon curry powder with the celery.

GREEK SHRIMP CHIFFON RING Omit the celery. Add 1/2 cup finely crumbled feta (about 2 ounces), 1/4 cup finely chopped pitted olives, and 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest with the shallots.

ITALIAN SHRIMP CHIFFON RING Omit the celery. Add 1/4 cup finely chopped pitted olives and 2 teaspoons minced oregano with the shallots.

MEXICAN SHRIMP CHIFFON RING Omit the celery. Add 2 teaspoons ground cumin, 2 teaspoons pure chile powder, and 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon with the shallots.

SPANISH SHRIMP CHIFFON RING Add 3/4 cup frozen peas and 1/4 teaspoon saffron threads crumbled to the tomato soup before it boils.

Shrimp unowaer

THERE ARE AS MANY types of chowder as there are regions of North America. The basic Shrimp Chowder offered here follows a long-standing tradition of cream and potatoes, popular in 1920s Boston society circles as the luncheon dish of choice. Serve with slices of crusty bread and perhaps a glass of a tangy German Riesling. MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

3 large waxy potatoes (such as Yukon Gold; about 1 1/4 pounds)

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

3/4 pound medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled and deveined, shells reserved

1 1/2 cups water

1 cup fish stock or clam juice

1 cup milk (whole, 2%, or 1%, but not fat-free), or more as needed

6 strips bacon, finely chopped

1 large onion, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, minced

1/2 cup heavy cream

1/2 cup finely chopped parsley

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

  1. Peel the potatoes and cut them into 1/2-inch cubes. Place them in a bowl and cover them with water to prevent discoloring. Set aside.
  2. Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the shrimp shells and stir until they turn pink, about 1 minute. Add the water and fish stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes.
  3. Using a fine-mesh sieve, strain the liquid into a 1-quart measuring cup. Add enough milk to make 3 1/2 cups liquid.
  4. Rinse out the pot and return it to medium heat. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter, along with the bacon, onion, and garlic. Sauté, stirring often, until the onion softens and the bacon begins to brown, about 7 minutes.
  5. Drain the potatoes and add them to the pot. Cook for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Add the milk—fish stock mixture, raise the heat to high, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover the pot, and simmer for 20 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender. (The chowder can be made to this point up to 24 hours ahead of time. Keep covered in the refrigerator, then return to a simmer over medium heat before continuing.)
  6. Uncover the soup and add the cream and shrimp. Return to a simmer and cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes.
  7. Stir the parsley into the pot. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

CARROT SHRIMP CHOWDER Replace the potatoes with 5 large carrots, peeled and sliced into 1-inch pieces (there’s no need to cover the sliced carrots with water).

ITALIAN SHRIMP CHOWDER Omit the cream and add 1/2 cup dry vermouth with the shrimp. Add 2 tablespoons minced oregano with the parsley.

MANHATTAN SHRIMP CHOWDER Replace the milk with additional fish stock or clam juice. Omit the cream, and add one 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes, with their juice, with the potatoes.

NEW ORLEANS SHRIMP CHOWDER Add 1 green or red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and chopped, with the bacon. Omit the cream. Add 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or more to taste, with the shrimp.

ROCK SHRIMP CHOWDER Substitute 1 pound peeled and cleaned rock shrimp for the regular shrimp.

SHRIMP AND CLAM CHOWDER Add 12 small clams (such as pismo), scrubbed, with the shrimp. Cook for an additional 3 minutes, or until the clams open.

SHRIMP AND MUSSEL CHOWDER Add 1 pound mussels, scrubbed and debearded, with the shrimp. Cook for an additional 2 minutes, or until the mussels open.

SPICY SHRIMP CHOWDER Add 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes, or more to taste, with the bacon.

Shrimp Cioppino

IT MAY SOUND AS if it comes from Sicily or Naples, but cioppino has American origins. Italian immigrants in San Francisco made this hearty stew to remember their homeland from afar. It’s perfect for a cold winter evening or an elegant springtime dinner party. MAKES 8 SERVINGS

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 medium onions, finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, minced

2 teaspoons minced oregano

2 pounds medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled and deveined, shells reserved

2 cups dry vermouth

1/2 cup minced parsley

2 bay leaves

4 cups fish stock or 2 cups clam juice plus 2 cups vegetable stock

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

One 28-ounce can peeled tomatoes, drained and coarsely chopped

1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 1/2 pounds mixed fish fillets (such as red snapper, sea bass, scrod, and/or turbot), skinned, picked over for bones, and cut into 3-inch pieces (about 16 pieces)

1/4 cup packed shredded basil

  1. Heat the oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onions, garlic, and oregano and stir until the onions are soft and translucent, about 3 minutes. Turn the heat to high, add the reserved shrimp shells, and cook, stirring, until they turn pink, about 1 minute.
  2. Add the vermouth and bring to a boil. Boil uncovered until the liquid is reduced by half.
  3. Add the parsley, bay leaves, and stock. Bring back to a boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes.
  4. Using a fine-mesh sieve, strain the stock into a large clean saucepan. Season with salt and pepper. Add the tomatoes and red pepper flakes, place the pan over medium heat, and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low and simmer uncovered for 15 minutes.
  5. Add the fish and simmer for 3 minutes, or until the fish turns opaque. Add the shrimp and gently stir to make sure it is completely submerged in the stock. Cook until the shrimp are pink and firm, about 3 minutes.
  6. Discard the bay leaves. Gently stir in the basil; check for salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

CREAMY SHRIMP CIOPPINO Stir 1 cup heavy cream into the soup with the shrimp.

HEARTY SHRIMP CIOPPINO Add 1 cup peeled turnips cut into 1-inch cubes and 1 cup peeled carrots sliced into 1-inch rounds with the tomatoes.

LOBSTER AND SHRIMP CIOPPINO Omit the fish fillets. Add 1 pound cooked lobster meat, chopped, with the shrimp.

SHRIMP CIOPPINO PROVENÇAL Add 1/2 cup anise-flavored liqueur (such as pastis) with the shrimp.

SHRIMP CIOPPINO VELOUTÉ Before adding the fish, thicken the soup by whisking in a beurre manié, made by mashing 3 tablespoons softened salted butter into 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour until well combined. If desired, add 1 cup heavy cream with the shrimp.

Shrimp Cocktail

THE SPICY SHRIMP COCKTAIL is an American classic. Unfortunately, it’s been stripped of some of its cachet by those little glass vials sold in the refrigerator section of supermarkets. Nothing beats the real thing for elegance, modern or retro. There’s a debate about whether the shrimp should be boiled or broiled. We think broiling gives them a firmer texture—a better foil to the tomato sauce. MAKES 6 TO 8 APPETIZER SERVINGS OR 4 MAIN-COURSE SERVINGS

FOR THE SHRIMP

2 pounds medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), deveined but not peeled

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons olive oil

FOR THE COCKTAIL SAUCE

1 cup ketchup

2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

2 tablespoons bottled horseradish

Juice of 2 lemons

4 dashes Tabasco sauce, or more to taste

1/2 teaspoon salt

  1. To devein the shrimp without peeling them, gently hold a shrimp in one hand and pull the vein out of the neck with the other. If the vein doesn’t come out whole, use a paring knife to cut down1/4 inch through the shell along the back curve of the shrimp (that is, the side opposite the legs). Gently pry the shell and meat open and remove the vein under running water. Repeat with the remaining shrimp. Preheat the broiler.
  2. Combine the shrimp with the salt, pepper, and oil in a large bowl, tossing to coat. Arrange the shrimp in one layer on the broiler tray or a lipped baking sheet. Place under the broiler and broil for 1 1/2 minutes per side, or until the shells start to turn a pinkish brown and the shrimp are firm. Remove from the broiler and allow to cool.
  3. Shell the shrimp, leaving the tail segments intact. Cover and refrigerate until chilled.
  4. Meanwhile, to prepare the cocktail sauce, combine the ketchup, Worcestershire, horseradish, lemon juice, Tabasco sauce, and salt in a medium bowl and stir until well combined. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. (The sauce can be made up to 4 days in advance.)
  5. To serve, arrange the shrimp on a large platter, with a bowl of the cocktail sauce on the side for dipping or spooning. Or fill martini glasses or small bowls with the cocktail sauce and hang the shrimp over the edges.

BARBECUE SHRIMP COCKTAIL Replace the ketchup with barbecue sauce, purchased or homemade (page 26).

CHINESE SHRIMP COCKTAIL Replace the ketchup with hoi sin sauce. Omit the horseradish and add 1 tablespoon minced ginger to the sauce.

EASY SHRIMP COCKTAIL Substitute 2 pounds precooked cocktail shrimp, thawed, for the medium shrimp.

GAZPACHO SHRIMP COCKTAIL Replace the horseradish with 2 tablespoons diced onion, 2 tablespoons seeded and diced cucumber, and 3 tablespoons seeded and diced tomato.

MUSTARD SHRIMP COCKTAIL Replace the horseradish with 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard.

PICKLED SHRIMP COCKTAIL Replace the horseradish with 2 tablespoons pickle relish.

SWEET-AND-SOUR SHRIMP COCKTAIL Omit the horseradish. Add 1 tablespoon sweetened Chinese vinegar and 1 teaspoon oyster sauce to the sauce.

Coconut Shrimp

HANDS DOWN, THE MOST DECADENT dish in the book. The sweet coconut goes perfectly with the shrimp, creating a crispy yet succulent package that melts in your mouth. A cold glass of beer or iced tea only makes it better. Since these delights become soggy quickly, they don’t travel well—so serve them hot and crispy, right out of the fryer. MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

8 cups vegetable oil

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 large egg whites

2 cups shredded sweetened coconut

1 pound medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled and deveined

  1. Pour the oil into a large saucepan at least 4 inches deep and 10 inches in diameter; the oil should be at least 1 1/2 inches deep but reach no more than halfway up the sides of the pan. Alternatively, fill an electric deep fryer with oil according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If you’re using a pan, clip a deep-frying thermometer to the inside and place the pan over medium heat. Heat the oil to 375°F. Adjust the heat to maintain that temperature while you prepare the shrimp. If you’re using an electric deep fryer, set the temperature control to 375°F.
  2. Stir together the flour, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and cayenne pepper in a medium mixing bowl until well combined. Beat the egg whites with a fork or a small whisk in another medium bowl until frothy. Spread the coconut on a plate. Line up the bowls and plates on the counter as follows: dry ingredients, egg whites, and coconut.
  3. Dip a shrimp first into the dry ingredients, then into egg whites, and finally into the coconut, rolling in the coconut until completely coated. Use the palm of your hand to press the coconut on firmly. Lay the shrimp on a cookie sheet or a cutting board; repeat with the remaining shrimp.
  4. Gently slide only as many shrimp as will fit into the pan in one layer without crowding into the hot oil and fry until lightly golden, about 2 minutes, turning them occasionally with tongs. Remove the shrimp from the oil and drain them on paper towels. Repeat with the remaining shrimps. Sprinkle with salt to taste and serve immediately.

CURRIED COCONUT SHRIMP Omit the cayenne pepper. Add 1 teaspoon curry powder to the flour.

DOUBLE COCONUT SHRIMP Whisk 1/2 cup unsweetened coconut milk into the beaten egg whites.

ISLAND COCONUT SHRIMP Add 1 cup dried banana chips, pulverized in a food processor, to the coconut. Whisk 1/2 cup tamarind juice concentrate into the beaten egg whites.

MEXICAN COCONUT SHRIMP Add 1 teaspoon ground cumin and 1 teaspoon chopped oregano to the flour.

NUTTY COCONUT SHRIMP Add 1/2 cup chopped peanuts to the coconut.

PINEAPPLE COCONUT SHRIMP Whisk 1/2 cup pineapple juice concentrate into the beaten egg whites.

Shrimp Curry

DESPITE ITS NAME, this is American fare, part of a rich culinary heritage from all over the world. (For the traditional Indian dish, see Shrimp Vindaloo, page 230.) Shrimp Curry makes a satisfying, come-in-from-the-cold dish for a winter supper or a quick, easy summertime meal. It’s a rich, full-bodied stew best served over aromatic rice. Serve a crisp green salad dressed with a light vinaigrette alongside. MAKES 4 SERVINGS

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 large onion, finely chopped

1 celery stalk, minced

2 tablespoons curry powder

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 cups milk, warmed

1 tart apple (such as Granny Smith), peeled, cored, and coarsely chopped

1 pound small shrimp (more than 55 per pound), peeled and deveined, or precooked cold-water (or baby) shrimp, thawed

1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper or freshly ground black pepper

  1. Melt the butter in a large heavy skillet set over medium heat. Add the onion and celery and cook, stirring often, until the onion is soft and translucent, about 3 minutes.
  2. Reduce the heat to low and stir in the curry powder. Stir for 30 seconds, then whisk in the flour. Continue to whisk until the flour is completely incorporated, then cook and whisk for another 30 seconds, just until the flour loses its raw taste and stark-white color, not until it browns.
  3. Raise the heat to medium and slowly whisk in the warm milk. Whisk constantly until the mixture comes to a simmer and thickens, about 2 minutes.
  4. Add the apple and reduce the heat to low. Simmer until the apple is tender, stirring often, about 10 minutes.
  5. Add the shrimp and cook, stirring often, until pink and firm, about 3 minutes. Stir in the nutmeg, lemon juice, salt, and white pepper. Serve immediately.

COCONUT SHRIMP CURRY Substitute coconut milk for 1 cup of the milk.

DOUBLE SHRIMP CURRY Add 2 tablespoons dried shrimp with the apple.

ENGLISH SHRIMP CURRY Add 1 cup frozen peas with the apple.

GINGER SHRIMP CURRY Add 2 tablespoons minced ginger with the onion.

NEW ENGLAND SHRIMP CURRY Add 1/2 cup dried cranberries, 1/2 cup chopped walnuts, and 1 teaspoon maple syrup with the apple.

NUTTY SHRIMP CURRY Add 1/2 cup raisins and 1/2 cup slivered almonds with the apple.

PEAR SHRIMP CURRY Substitute 1 ripe pear, peeled, cored, and coarsely chopped, for the apple.

TROPICAL SHRIMP CURRY Add 1 cup sliced bananas with the apple.

Deviled Shrimp

DEVILING ACTUALLY GOT ITS start in the eighteenth century. Fiery cayenne pepper, newly brought back from India, was added to meats, mostly to preserve them. Ministers railed against this food trend, saying it caused all sorts of immoral behaviors. You needn’t worry about offending the neighbors with this dish. This blend of spices and shrimp is guaranteed to be a new favorite, for lunch or hors d’oeuvres. MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS

1 pound small shrimp (more than 55 per pound), peeled and deveined, or 1 pound precooked cold-water (or baby) shrimp, thawed

1 anchovy fillet

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon cider vinegar

1 teaspoon minced thyme

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

6 dashes Tabasco sauce, or more to taste

1/2 teaspoon salt, or more to taste

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

  1. If you’re using raw shrimp, bring 2 quarts salted water to a boil in a large pot over medium heat. Fill a large bowl halfway with ice water and set it aside. Add the shrimp to the boiling water and cook until pink and firm, about 2 minutes. Transfer the shrimp to the ice water with a strainer or a slotted spoon. Allow them to cool completely, then drain them and blot dry with paper towels. If you’re using precooked shrimp, omit this step.
  2. Combine the shrimp, anchovy, oil, mustard, vinegar, thyme, ginger, nutmeg, cloves, Tabasco sauce, and salt in a food processor. Pulse 2 or 3 times, until the shrimp are evenly chopped, scraping down the bowl as necessary. Process the mixture until smooth, about 1 minute longer. Check for salt and season with pepper. Serve immediately. (The deviled shrimp will keep for up to 2 days tightly covered in the refrigerator.)

SERVING SUGGESTIONS

Dissolved in tomato sauce for a rich pasta topping • Mounded in a sandwich with lettuce and tomato • Mounded in the hollows of hard-cooked egg whites • Spooned into celery stalks • Spooned into hollowed-out cherry tomatoes • Spread on garlic-rubbed bruschetta (see page 46) • Spread on saltines • Spread on table water crackers • Spread on Triscuits or other rough-grain crackers • Swirled into a can of condensed tomato soup with 1 cup milk for an easy lunch treat

BRITISH POTTED SHRIMP Omit the thyme, ginger, and Tabasco sauce. Spoon the shrimp mixture into small ramekins or bowls and smooth the tops. Top each with a layer of melted butter, poured on gently to form a thin coating. Refrigerate, covered, until the butter has hardened. Serve as a spread.

COUNTRY SHRIMP DIP Omit the ginger, and increase the oil to 1/4 cup. Coarsely chop the ingredients in the processor—do not purée.

DEVILED SHRIMP AND EGGS Scoop out the yolks of a dozen hard-cooked eggs, halved. Reserve 6 of the yolks for another purpose. Increase the mustard to 3 tablespoons. Process the remaining 6 egg yolks with the shrimp and other ingredients in the food processor. Spoon this mixture into the hard-cooked egg whites.

DEVILED SHRIMP MELT Spread 1/4 cup of the deviled shrimp onto each of 8 slices of bread. Cover each with 1 slice American or Swiss cheese. Place on a cookie sheet or a baking sheet and place under a preheated broiler until the cheese melts, about 20 seconds.

GREEK DEVILED SHRIMP Omit the nutmeg and cloves. Add 2 teaspoons minced oregano and 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest with the thyme.

HERBAL DEVILED SHRIMP Omit the ginger and cloves. Add 2 teaspoons minced parsley and 1 teaspoon minced basil with the thyme.

MOROCCAN DEVILED SHRIMP Omit the thyme and ginger. Add 1 teaspoon minced oregano and 1/2 teaspoon turmeric with the nutmeg.

Shrimp Diane

IN THE DAYS WHEN Bogart and Bacall were caught on camera dining at New York’s “21,” the dishes served at this formidable temple of chic became a nationwide craze—and Steak Diane led the way. Flambéed in a rich sauce of shallots, brandy, and cream, it set the tone for 1940s elegance. Shrimp Diane, a somewhat simplified version, good served over wide noodles or mashed root vegetables, or just with crusty bread. All you need is something to soak up the heavenly sauce. MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, or 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, if using precooked shirmp

1 1/2 pounds medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled and deveined, or precooked cocktail shrimp, thawed and peeled

2 shallots, minced

1/4 cup dry vermouth or sherry

1/2 cup brandy

3/4 cup fish stock or clam juice

1/4 cup heavy cream

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 1/2 tablespoons minced chives

  1. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the raw shrimp, if using, and cook, stirring often, until pink and firm, about 3 minutes. Transfer the shrimp to a bowl. Set aside.
  2. Return the skillet to medium heat and add 1 tablespoon butter. Add the shallots and cook until soft and aromatic, about 2 minutes. Add the vermouth and allow it to come to a boil. Reduce the liquid until it is a glaze and the pan is nearly dry.
  3. Remove the pan from the heat and quickly add the brandy, then return the skillet to medium heat—be careful, the brandy may ignite. If this happens, simply cover the pan for 1 minute to put out the flame. Add the stock and bring to a boil. Let the sauce boil, stirring often, until it is reduced to a thick glaze, about 10 minutes.
  4. Add the cream and mustard and stir constantly until well combined. Reduce the heat to low and add the Worcestershire sauce and the shrimp, stirring to coat them well. Cook, stirring constantly, until the sauce is bubbling, about 2 minutes.
  5. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately, sprinkling the dish or individual servings with chives.

ALCOHOL-FREE SHRIMP DIANE Omit the vermouth and brandy. Add 2 tablespoons water, 1 tablespoon cider vinegar, and 1/2 teaspoon sugar to the pan after the shallots have softened. Substitute beef broth for the fish stock, adding it after the vinegar has been reduced to a glaze.

ALMOND SHRIMP DIANE Finely grind 3 tablespoons blanched slivered almonds in a spice mill or a food processor. Add them with the cream, stirring constantly to prevent scorching.

HERBED SHRIMP DIANE Add 1 tablespoon minced thyme and 1 1/2 tablespoons minced parsley with the cream.

ORANGE SHRIMP DIANE Substitute Grand Marnier for the brandy.

SHRIMP AND CRAB DIANE Reduce the shrimp to 1 pound. Add 1/2 pound lump crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage, with the cream.

SHRIMP AND SCALLOPS DIANE Reduce the shrimp to 3/4 pound. Add 3/4 pound sea scallops, cut in half, with the raw shrimp in step 1. If using precooked shrimp, cut the scallops into quarters and add them with the shrimp, cooking for 3 minutes.

Shrimp Dip

DIP IS THE ULTIMATE party food, great with beer, retro cocktails, or iced tea. This shrimp dip is excellent on crackers, with cut-up vegetables like carrots or broccoli, or on its own on buttered toast points. In the winter, you may want to warm it up just slightly: place in a microwave-safe bowl and heat on high for 2 minutes, stirring once. MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS

1 pound small shrimp (more than 55 per pound), peeled and deveined, or precooked cold-water (or baby) shrimp, thawed

1 cup mayonnaise (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

2 tablespoons yellow mustard

2 tablespoons minced pimientos

2 teaspoons curry powder

Juice of 1/2 lemon

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

  1. If using raw shrimp, bring 2 quarts salted water to a boil in a large pot over medium heat. Fill a large bowl halfway with ice water and set it aside. Add the shrimp to the boiling water and cook until pink and firm, about 2 minutes. Transfer the shrimp to the ice water with a strainer or slotted spoon. Allow the shrimp to cool completely, then drain and blot them dry with paper towels. If using precooked shrimp, omit this step.
  2. Finely chop the cooked shrimp. Combine them with the mayonnaise, mustard, pimientos, curry powder, and lemon juice in a medium bowl. Stir until well blended. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately. (The dip can be made up to 24 hours in advance and kept tightly covered in the refrigerator.)

AFRICAN SHRIMP DIP Omit the curry powder. Add 1 tablespoon turmeric, 4 dashes Tabasco sauce, or more to taste, and 1/2 cup salted peanuts to the chopped shrimp.

ASIAN SHRIMP DIP Omit the pimientos and curry powder. Add 2 tablespoons five-spice powder and 1/2 cup minced water chestnuts to the chopped shrimp.

DRUNKEN SHRIMP DIP Omit the lemon juice. Add 2 tablespoons brandy to the chopped shrimp.

FRENCH SHRIMP DIP Omit the mustard and curry powder. Add 2 tablespoons minced basil and 2 tablespoons minced thyme to the chopped shrimp.

GREEK SHRIMP DIP Omit the curry powder. Add 1/2 cup chopped pitted black olives (such as Kalamata), 2 tablespoons minced oregano, and 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest to the chopped shrimp.

JAPANESE SHRIMP DIP Omit the mustard, pimientos, and curry powder, and increase the mayonnaise to 1 1/4 cups. Add 2 teaspoons wasabi paste to the chopped shrimp.

Shrimp Dressing

IT’S A SOUTHERN TRADITION at Thanksgiving and Christmas to serve baked oyster dressing with the turkey. This shrimp version honors an old favorite made with saltines. (And it’s so much easier not to have to shuck all those oysters!) The casserole comes out of the oven bubbling and hot; but, unlike some dressings, it doesn’t really hold its shape when cut, because there’s no egg in it. The rich dressing’s buttery, sweet flavor works with any number of roasted meats, from beef to chicken, and, of course, turkey. MAKES 8 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS

6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, plus additional for the pan

60 saltine crackers

1 pound small shrimp (more than 55 per pound), peeled and deveined

1 1/2 teaspoons sweet paprika

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 1/2 cups milk (whole or 2%, but not 1 % or fat-free)

  1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Generously butter a 9- or 10-inch square baking dish or casserole.
  2. Crumble 20 of the crackers into the pan. Spread them evenly and top with half the shrimp. Dot the shrimp with 2 tablespoons butter and sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon paprika and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Create a second layer with 20 more crumbled crackers, the remaining shrimp, 2 more tablespoons butter, 1/2 teaspoon paprika, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Crumble the remaining 20 crackers over the top and dot with the remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Sprinkle the remaining 1/2 teaspoon paprika evenly over the top.
  3. Gently pour the milk over the layers in a thin, steady stream, moistening the entire top of the dish.
  4. Cover the dish with foil and bake for 40 minutes. Uncover and bake for 5 minutes longer to create a soft crust. Serve hot or at room temperature.

ASIAN SHRIMP DRESSING Substitute five-spice powder for the paprika.

FIERY SHRIMP DRESSING Add 1 1/2 teaspoons red pepper flakes, dividing them equally among the layers.

FRENCH SHRIMP DRESSING Combine 1 1/2 tablespoons chopped basil and 1 1/2 teaspoons minced thyme with the paprika, dividing the mixture evenly among the layers.

ITALIAN SHRIMP DRESSING Omit the paprika. Combine 1 1/2 tablespoons rosemary and 1 1/2 teaspoons oregano and divide the mixture equally among the layers.

TEXAS SHRIMP DRESSING Seed and thinly slice 2 jalapeño peppers. Divide them equally among the layers.

Shrimp Dumplings

TRADITIONALLY, CHINESE SHRIMP DUMPLINGS are made with pork fat. But you won’t miss this ingredient with our lighter version. Dumpling wrappers can be found in the produce section of most grocery stores. Best of all, these dumplings can absolutely be made ahead, frozen for up to 2 months, and taken out for a last-minute appetizer without even defrosting them before steaming. MAKES ABOUT 20 DUMPLINGS

Cornstarch for the cookie sheet

3 tablespoons rice wine vinegar

1/4 cup soy sauce

1/2 pound small shrimp (more than 55 per pound), peeled and deveined

2 tablespoons minced chives

8 canned water chestnuts, drained and minced

1 teaspoon minced ginger

1/2 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

18 to 25 dumpling or wonton wrappers

Vegetable oil for the steamer

  1. Lightly dust a cookie sheet or baking sheet with cornstarch.
  2. In a small bowl, whisk together the rice wine vinegar and 3 tablespoons soy sauce. Set aside.
  3. Place the shrimp in a food processor and pulse 2 or 3 times, until the shrimp are finely ground but not puréed. Transfer the shrimp to a medium mixing bowl.
  4. Add the chives, water chestnuts, ginger, the remaining 1 tablespoon soy sauce, and the sesame oil to the shrimp. Stir until well blended.
  5. Place 1 dumpling wrapper on the work surface. Put 1 heaping teaspoonful of the shrimp mixture in the middle of the wrapper. Dip your finger in water and moisten the edges of half of the wrapper. Fold the dry side of the wrapper over the filling until it reaches the moist edges, and press the edges together. Pick up the dumpling and use your fingers to pinch the edges closed—a tight seal is important so the filling will not leak while the dumpling cooks. Place the dumpling on the prepared cookie sheet and cover it with a clean dry kitchen towel. Repeat with the remaining wrappers and filling.
  6. Lightly oil the bottom sections of a bamboo steamer or the bottom of a metal vegetable steamer basket. Set the dumplings in the steamer basket(s) about 1 inch apart. If you’re using a bamboo steamer, choose a pot that is the same diameter as your bamboo steamer so that it fits snugly on top without allowing steam to escape. Fill the bottom of the steamer with 1 inch of water and bring it to a boil over high heat. Place the steamer basket on top of or in the pot; cover and steam the dumplings for 5 minutes, or until the dough is tender and the filling feels firm.
  7. Serve the dumplings hot, with the soy sauce mixture for dipping.

OTHER DIPPING SAUCES

A light vinaigrette made with 1/4 cup olive oil and 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar • Barbecue Sauce (page 26) • Peanut Sauce (page 166) • Tartar Sauce (page 51) • Sesame Dipping Sauce (page 203) • Szechwan Cold Garlic Sauce (page 194)

ALMOND SHRIMP DUMPLINGS Add 1/2 cup ground almonds to the shrimp filling. You’ll need about 30 dumpling wrappers.

BLACK BEAN SHRIMP DUMPLINGS Stir 3 tablespoons chopped dried salted Chinese black beans into the shrimp filling. You’ll need about 30 dumpling wrappers.

HERB SHRIMP DUMPLINGS Stir 1/4 cup minced parsley, 1/4 cup minced tarragon, and 2 tablespoons grated lemon zest into the shrimp filling until well combined. You’ll need about 35 dumpling wrappers.

MUSHROOM SHRIMP DUMPLINGS Stir 1/2 cup finely chopped shiitakes, into the shrimp filling until well combined. You’ll need about 35 dumpling wrappers.

SPICY SHRIMP DUMPLINGS Add 1 teaspoon chili oil, or more, to the food processor with the shrimp.

Shrimp Enchiladas

THE EASY RED SAUCE for these enchiladas is Texas through and through, and its sweet-hot flavor marries perfectly with the shrimp. Serve with purchased guacamole or refried beans. MAKES 4 SERVINGS

FOR THE SAUCE

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 large onion, coarsely chopped

3 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped

4 cups canned or homemade chicken stock

1 tablespoon minced oregano

1 teaspoon salt

12 dried mild red chiles (such as New Mexican), stems and seeds removed, torn into 2-inch pieces

FOR THE ENCHILADAS

1 tablespoon vegetable oil, plus more for the baking dish

2 medium onions, sliced into1/4-inch rings

1 garlic clove, finely chopped Eight 8-inch flour tortillas

2 pounds large shrimp (12 to 15 per pound), peeled and deveined

4 cups shredded Monterey Jack (about 1 pound)

  1. To prepare the sauce, heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic; cook, stirring often, until the onion is soft and translucent, about 3 minutes.
  2. Stir in the stock, oregano, salt, and chiles. Bring to a simmer, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 20 minutes. Adjust the heat so that the stock barely bubbles.
  3. Purée the hot mixture in a blender; you may have do this in batches. Set the sauce aside. (Prepare the sauce ahead of time and store it in the refrigerator, covered, for up to 3 days.)
  4. To prepare the enchiladas, preheat the oven to 350°F. Oil a 9 × 13-inch baking dish and set aside.
  5. Heat the vegetable oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and cook, stirring often until the onions are soft and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat.
  6. Place 1 tortilla on the work surface. Lay 3 shrimp neck to tail in the middle of the tortilla. Top with 1/3 cup of the shredded cheese and one-eighth of the onion and garlic mixture (about 2 tablespoons). Fold the bottom of the tortilla up over the filling, then roll up to create a sealed roll. Using both hands or a large spatula, carefully transfer the tortilla to the baking dish, placing it seam side down across one of the short ends.
  7. Continue making the enchiladas and placing them in the pan one next to the other. They should fit snugly in the pan. (The dish can be made to this point up to 12 hours in advance. Store the dish and the sauce, separate and covered, in the refrigerator. Allow both to come to room temperature before proceeding.)
  8. Pour the sauce over the top of the enchiladas and scatter the remaining 1 1/3 cups shredded cheese evenly over the sauce.
  9. Bake for 25 minutes, or until the cheese is melted and shrimp are cooked through. Let stand for 10 minutes, then serve.

GOAT CHEESE SHRIMP ENCHILADAS Substitute 3 cups soft goat cheese (about 10 ounces) for the Monterey Jack; reduce the amount of cheese in each enchilada to1/4 cup.

HOT SHRIMP ENCHILADAS Substitute 3 seeded and coarsely chopped ancho chiles for 3 of the red chiles.

SHRIMP AND BEAN ENCHILADAS Drain, rinse, and purée one 14-ounce can black beans in a food processor. Spoon about 2 tablespoons of the purée into each enchilada before rolling it.

SHRIMP AND CORN ENCHILADAS Sprinkle 2 tablespoons frozen corn, thawed (1 cup total), inside each enchilada before adding the filling.

TEXAS SHRIMP ENCHILADAS Sprinkle 1 teaspoon chopped pickled jalapeño pepper (about 2 peppers total) inside each enchilada before rolling.

Shrimp Étouffée

CAJUN CUISINE, typified by spicy dishes like this one, is part of the New Orleans heritage. Modern-day Cajuns are descended from the French Acadians forced off Nova Scotia by the British in 1758. The word étouffée comes from the French étouffer (“to smother”) and refers to the slow cooking of the meat in the sauce. Fiery Cajun cooking is often defined by a trio of vegetables—onion, celery, and bell pepper—cooked in a deep brown roux (a classic flour and fat mixture, cooked to just this side of burned). Serve Shrimp Étouffée over fluffy white rice, although there are Cajuns who insist on mashed potatoes, mashed turnips, or even braised turnip greens. MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

1/4 cup peanut oil

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1 large onion, coarsely chopped

2 celery stalks, coarsely chopped

1 green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and coarsely chopped

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 tablespoon minced thyme

2 teaspoons salt

2 cups fish stock or vegetable stock

1 1/2 pounds medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled and deveined

5 dashes Tabasco sauce, or more to taste

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

  1. Heat the peanut oil in a large heavy saucepan over medium heat until it is hot and rippling. Add the flour and whisk until it’s completely incorporated. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring or whisking often, until the mixture is golden brown, about 10 minutes.
  2. Add the onion, celery, bell pepper, and garlic and cook, stirring constantly, for 5 minutes, or until the vegetables soften and the flour mixture is deeply browned. Stir in the thyme and salt. Cook, stirring constantly, for 30 seconds more.
  3. Whisk in the stock and continue to whisk until the sauce is smooth and comes to a simmer. Reduce the heat to the merest flame to keep the mixture at a simmer, cover the pan, and simmer for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
  4. Add the shrimp and stir until they are well coated with sauce. Cook, stirring once or twice, until the shrimp are just beginning to turn pink, about 1 minute. Add the Tabasco sauce and black pepper. Turn off the heat, cover the pan, and let sit for 5 minutes before serving. The heat of the sauce will continue to cook the shrimp.

HEARTY SHRIMP ÉTOUFFÉE Add 1 cup diced turnips and 1 cup diced carrots with the other vegetables.

SHRIMP AND CRAB ÉTOUFFÉE Reduce the shrimp to 1 pound. Add 1/2 pound lump crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage, with the shrimp.

SHRIMP AND CRAWFISH ÉTOUFFÉE Reduce the shrimp to 3/4 pound. Add 3/4 pound purchased cooked crawfish meat with the shrimp.

SHRIMP AND RED BEAN ÉTOUFFÉE Add one 14-ounce can red beans, drained and rinsed, after whisking in the stock.

SHRIMP AND SCALLOPS ÉTOUFFÉE Reduce the shrimp to 1 pound. Add 1/2 pound large sea scallops, cut in half, with the shrimp. Let the pan sit covered for 10 minutes after you remove it from the heat.

Shrimp Fajitas

FAJITAS ARE THE QUINTESSENCE of Tex-Mex cuisine. The marinated meat is grilled or sautéed, then served with tortillas and a variety of sides. For steak or chicken fajitas, the meat is usually marinated overnight, but shrimp need only 10 minutes or so in the lime juice and chile blend. There are more ideas for combinations and flavorings following the recipe. MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

1 1/4 pounds medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled and deveined

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon pure chile powder

1/2 teaspoon chopped oregano

1/4 teaspoon garlic powder

Juice of 1 lime

8 to 12 flour or soft corn tortillas

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

6 scallions, cut into thirds

2 green bell peppers, cored, seeded, and sliced into 1/3-inch strips

ON THE SIDE

1/2 cup sour cream (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

1/4 cup finely chopped cilantro

1/4 cup minced red onion

  1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
  2. Combine the shrimp, salt, cumin, chile powder, oregano, garlic, and lime juice in a large bowl. Toss until the spices are evenly distributed and the shrimp are well coated. Set aside to marinate for 10 minutes.
  3. Wrap the tortillas tightly in a large piece of aluminum foil. Place the tortillas in the preheated oven.
  4. Heat the vegetable oil in a large heavy skillet or oil a stove-top grill over high heat. Add the scallions and peppers and cook, stirring occasionally, until they soften slightly, 2 minutes.
  5. Add the shrimp with their marinade and cook, stirring constantly, until they are pink and firm, about 3 minutes.
  6. Transfer the shrimp and vegetables to a serving platter and serve with the warmed tortillas, sour cream, cilantro, and red onion on the side.

BARBECUE SHRIMP FAJITAS Serve the fajitas with Barbecue Sauce (page 26) on the side.

CALIFORNIA SHRIMP FAJITAS Omit the sour cream, cilantro, and red onion, and serve 2 Hass avocados, peeled, pitted, and sliced, 1 cup crumbled soft goat cheese (about 4 ounces), and 1 cup yogurt as sides with the tortillas.

LOUISIANA SHRIMP FAJITAS Reduce the shrimp to 3/4 pound. Add 1/2 pound Spanish or Portuguese andouille sausage, sliced into 1/2-inch pieces, to the marinade. (Do not use Mexican andouille, which includes raw pork.)

OTHER SIDES

2 cups chopped tomatoes • 1 cup crumbled feta (about 4 ounces) • 1 jícama, peeled and sliced • 2 cups salsa • 4 cups shredded lettuce • 2 cups shredded Monterey Jack or Cheddar (about 8 ounces) • 6 fresh or pickled jalapeños, sliced

Shrimp Fra Diavolo

THE CULINARY DEBATE RAGES ON: Is Fra Diavolo an American dish or an Italian? One side claims the dish originated in the early 1900s among Italian immigrants in New York; this camp claims the heavy sauce is strictly an Italian-American invention, not representative of the way people eat in Italy. The other side argues that Fra Diavolo was once a specialty of the Amalfi Coast. In the end, it doesn’t really matter, for spicy pasta fra diavolo is on every Italian-American menu across the U.S. This recipe offers the simplest version, long a favorite in New York’s Little Italy; roasting the tomatoes concentrates their flavor, balancing the garlic and red pepper. Serve hot right out of the pan, accompanied by a crisp salad and sliced fruit for dessert. MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

2 pounds plum tomatoes (about 12), halved

1/4 cup olive oil

6 garlic cloves, minced

1 pound spaghetti, linguine, or fettuccine

1 1/2 teaspoons red pepper flakes

1 pound medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled and deveined, or precooked cocktail shrimp, thawed and peeled

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

  1. Preheat the oven to 450°F.
  2. Place the tomatoes cut side down in a roasting pan or a lipped baking sheet just large enough to hold them in one layer. Drizzle them evenly with the olive oil and sprinkle with the minced garlic.
  3. Bake the tomatoes for 1 hour, or until they are lightly browned and very soft. Remove the tomatoes from the oven and allow them to cool for 10 minutes.
  4. Transfer the tomatoes, garlic, and all the juices from the roasting pan to a food processor. Process until the tomatoes are puréed.
  5. Cook the pasta according to the package directions in a large pot of boiling water. Drain thoroughly.
  6. Meanwhile, place a large saucepan over medium heat and heat until it’s hot but not smoking. Add the red pepper flakes and stir them around for 10 seconds to release their flavor. Add the tomato purée and the raw shrimp, if using. Bring the sauce to a simmer and cook, stirring constantly, until the shrimp are pink and firm, about 3 minutes. Or, if using cocktail shrimp, add them when the sauce is simmering and cook until heated through, about 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper.
  7. Add the cooked pasta to the sauce and toss until well combined and heated through.

HERBED SHRIMP FRA DIAVOLO Add 3 tablespoons minced parsley and 2 tablespoons chopped rosemary with the shrimp.

SHRIMP AND CRAB FRA DIAVOLO Reduce the shrimp to 1/2 pound. Add 1/2 pound lump crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage, with the shrimp.

SHRIMP AND LOBSTER FRA DIAVOLO Reduce the shrimp to 1/2 pound. Add 1/2 pound cooked lobster meat, chopped, with the cooked pasta.

SHRIMP AND SCALLOP FRA DIAVOLO Reduce the shrimp to 1/2 pound. Add 1/2 pound large sea scallops, cut in half, with the shrimp. If using precooked shrimp, cut the scallops into quarters. Add them with the shrimp and simmer an additional 2 minutes.

SHRIMP FRA DIAVOLO À LA VODKA Add 3 tablespoons vodka with the shrimp. When the shrimp are cooked, stir 1 cup heavy cream into the sauce.

Shrimp Fried Rice

THERE ARE TWO TRICKS to perfect fried rice: the cooked rice must be cooled completely (so its moisture content is low and it doesn’t steam the dish) and the oil must be very hot (so that the rice doesn’t turn gummy). Standard white or brown rice works well, but fragrant rices such as jasmine, basmati, or Texmati are equally delicious. Never use instant rice, Arborio, or Thai sticky rice. MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

2 teaspoons plus 2 tablespoons peanut oil

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

3 scallions, thinly sliced 1 garlic clove, minced

1 teaspoon minced ginger

1 celery stalk, cut into 1/8-inch dice

1 carrot, cut into 1/8-inch dice

1/2 cup fresh or defrosted frozen peas

3/4 pound small shrimp (more than 55 per pound), peeled and deveined, or precooked cold-water (or baby) shrimp, thawed

3 cups cooked white rice, cooled thoroughly

1 tablespoon soy sauce

  1. Place a large wok or skillet (preferably nonstick) over medium heat until it is hot but not smoking. Add 2 teaspoons of the peanut oil and swirl it around to coat the wok. Add the eggs and scramble them very quickly. When the eggs are just set, transfer to a plate and set aside.
  2. Wipe out any bits of egg sticking to the wok, turn the heat up to high, and place the wok over the heat. Allow it to get very hot again. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons peanut oil, then add the scallions, garlic, and ginger. Stir and toss them for 20 seconds.
  3. Add the celery and carrot; cook, stirring and tossing, for another 30 seconds. Add the peas and the raw shrimp, if using, and toss and stir until the shrimp are pink and firm, about 2 minutes. Lower the heat to medium if the vegetables begin to burn.
  4. Raise the heat to high and add the rice and the precooked shrimp, if using. Stir and toss for 2 minutes, or until the rice is hot and the grains are separate and well distributed among the other ingredients.
  5. Toss the eggs back into the wok, along with the soy sauce, and cook, stirring and tossing, for 30 seconds more. Serve immediately or at room temperature.

BLACK BEAN SHRIMP FRIED RICE Add 2 tablespoons dried salted Chinese black beans, slightly crushed, with the peas.

DOUBLE SHRIMP FRIED RICE Add 2 tablespoons dried shrimp, soaked in water for 10 minutes and drained, with the peas.

MUSHROOM SHRIMP FRIED RICE Add 1 cup sliced button mushrooms with the celery.

SPICY SHRIMP FRIED RICE Add 1 tablespoon chili oil, or more to taste, with the peas.

SWEET-AND-SAVORY SHRIMP FRIED RICE Omit the soy sauce. Add 2 tablespoons hoi sin sauce and 1 tablespoon oyster sauce with the rice.

SZECHWAN SHRIMP FRIED RICE Add 2 tablespoons crushed Szechwan peppercorns with the celery.

THAI SHRIMP FRIED RICE Omit the carrots and soy sauce. Add 2 teaspoons fish sauce, 1/2 cup unsalted peanuts, and 1/4 cup chopped basil with the cooked eggs. Top the dish with 1/2 cup finely diced cucumber.

VEGETABLE SHRIMP FRIED RICE Add 1/2 cup finely minced canned water chestnuts and 1/2 cup thinly sliced canned bamboo shoots with the celery. Increase the soy sauce to 2 tablespoons.

Shrimp Frittata

UNLIKE A FRENCH OMELET, an Italian frittata is cooked at a low heat and left flat. The frittata first entered the American consciousness in 1952 when Ruth Casa-Emellos, writing for the New York Times, tried to re-create the dishes served on the fashionable Italian cruise line, the Saturnia. Shrimp Frittata makes a spectacular brunch dish, a nice addition to a casual buffet, or a quick summer supper, served with a glass of good Italian wine, such as a hearty Montepulciano. MAKES 2 SERVINGS

6 large eggs

3 tablespoons milk (whole or 2%, but not 1 % or fat-free)

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 scallions, thinly sliced

3/4 pound small shrimp (more than 55 per pound), peeled and deveined

1/2 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

  1. In a medium bowl, beat the eggs and milk with a small whisk or a fork until lightly frothy.
  2. Heat the oil in a 10- to 12-inch skillet (preferably nonstick) over medium heat. Add the scallions and cook, stirring constantly, just until they are soft, about 1 minute. Do not let them brown.
  3. Add the shrimp and salt; cook, stirring often, until the shrimp are pink and firm, about 2 minutes.
  4. Reduce the heat to low. Pour the eggs into the skillet and shake the pan lightly to distribute the shrimp and scallions evenly in the egg mixture. Cover the skillet and cook undisturbed until the eggs are set, about 8 minutes.
  5. Carefully run a long thin flexible spatula around the sides and under the frittata to release it from the pan, and slide it onto a serving platter. Cut the frittata in half or into wedges. Serve hot or at room temperature.

EXTRA-RICH SHRIMP FRITTATA Substitute heavy cream or half-and-half for the milk.

FIERY SHRIMP FRITTATA Whisk 4 dashes Tabasco sauce, or more to taste, with the eggs and milk.

HERBED SHRIMP FRITTATA Add 1 tablespoon minced thyme, 1 tablespoon minced parsley, and 2 teaspoons minced oregano with the shrimp.

INDIAN SHRIMP FRITTATA Add 1 tablespoon minced ginger and 2 teaspoons curry powder with the shrimp.

MUSHROOM SHRIMP FRITTATA Add 1 cup thinly sliced button or cremini mushrooms with the shrimp.

NEW ENGLAND SHRIMP FRITTATA Add 1 cup cubed boiled potatoes and 1/2 pound cooked lobster, chopped, with the shrimp.

PROVENÇAL SHRIMP FRITTATA Add 1/2 cup diced tomatoes, 1/4 cup chopped pitted black olives, and 1 tablespoon chopped rosemary with the shrimp.

ROCK SHRIMP FRITTATA Use 3/4 pound peeled and cleaned rock shrimp instead of the raw shrimp.

SPANISH SHRIMP FRITTATA Add 1/4 teaspoon saffron threads, crumbled, to the eggs and milk. Add 1 cup frozen peas, thawed, with the shrimp.

Shrimp Fritters

LET’S FACE IT: Fritters are just too good to pass up. Your doctor won’t advocate eating these shrimp-stuffed bundles of crispy, salty batter, deep-fried to a golden brown. In fact, throughout history, health-care officials have agreed: Roman doctors thought they caused cholera; medieval apothecaries, heresy. Defy all authorities once in a while and serve these crunchy wonders, the ultimate indulgence, hot, right out of the fryer. MAKES ABOUT 30 FRITTERS

1 1/2 pounds small shrimp (more than 55 per pound), peeled and deveined, or precooked cold-water (or baby) shrimp, thawed

8 cups vegetable oil

2 large eggs, well beaten

1 1/4 cups milk

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

2 teaspoons baking powder

2 cups all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

  1. If you’re using raw shrimp, bring 3 quarts salted water to a boil in a large pot set over high heat. Fill a large bowl halfway with ice water and set it aside. Add the shrimp to the boiling water and cook until pink and firm, about 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon or strainer, transfer the shrimp to the ice water and allow them to cool completely. Drain the shrimp and pat with paper towels. If using precooked shrimp, omit this step.
  2. Coarsely chop the cooked shrimp; set aside.
  3. Pour the oil into a large saucepan at least 4 inches deep and 10 inches in diameter; the oil should be at least 1 1/2 inches deep but reach no more than halfway up the sides of the pan. Alternatively, fill an electric deep fryer with oil according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If you’re using a pan, clip a deep-frying thermometer to the inside and place the pan over medium heat. Heat the oil to 375°F. Adjust the heat to maintain this temperature while you prepare the fritters. If you’re using an electric deep fryer, set the temperature control to 375°F.
  4. Combine the eggs, milk, and melted butter in a large bowl. Whisk until light and frothy. Add the baking powder, flour, 1 teaspoon of the salt, and the pepper; mix until the dry ingredients are well incorporated and the batter is smooth. Add the shrimp and mix until they are well incorporated into the batter.
  5. Drop heaping tablespoonfuls of the batter into the hot oil, adding only as many at a time as will fit in one layer without crowding the pan. Fry for 1 minute, or until golden brown on the bottom. Turn the fritters and fry for another minute, or until golden brown all over.
  6. Remove the fritters from the oil and drain them on paper towels. Serve the fritters hot, sprinkled with the remaining 1 teaspoon salt.

CAJUN SHRIMP FRITTERS Sauté 1 cup minced onion, 1/2 cup finely diced celery, and 1/2 cup finely chopped green bell pepper in 2 teaspoons vegetable oil over medium heat until softened, about 5 minutes. Cool completely. Increase the milk to 1 3/4 cups and add a third egg. Add the vegetable mixture to the batter with the flour, adding 4 dashes Tabasco sauce, or more to taste, as well.

CORNMEAL SHRIMP FRITTERS Substitute 1 cup yellow or white cornmeal for 1 cup of the flour.

OKRA AND SHRIMP FRITTERS Add 1 1/2 cups thinly sliced okra with the flour.

ROCK SHRIMP FRITTERS Substitute 1 1/2 pounds peeled and cleaned rock shrimp for the regular shrimp.

SHRIMP AND CRAB FRITTERS Reduce the shrimp to 3/4 pound. Add 3/4 pound crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage, to the batter.

SPICY SHRIMP FRITTERS Add 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes with the flour.

Garlic Sauce Shrimp

A HONG KONG SPECIALTY, Garlic Sauce Shrimp has become standard Chinese-American fare. Following tradition, this recipe makes just enough sauce to coat the shrimp without masking their taste. The garlic sauce is fiery, so beware. You can always cut down on the number of dried red chiles— but eat them at your own risk. Serve this dish over white or brown rice. It will also make great cold leftovers the next day, the sauce mellowing somewhat. MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

3 tablespoons peanut oil, or 1 tablespoon peanut oil, if using precooked shrimp

1 1/2 pounds medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled and deveined, or precooked cocktail shrimp, thawed and peeled

4 small dried red Asian chiles

2 tablespoons minced ginger

8 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 shallot, minced

5 scallions, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 1/2 tablespoons dry sherry 3 tablespoons soy sauce

2 teaspoons sugar

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons canned or homemade chicken stock

1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil

  1. Set a large wok or a skillet (preferably nonstick) over high heat. When the wok is hot but not smoking, add 2 tablespoons of the peanut oil. Swirl it around to coat the wok, then add the raw shrimp, if using. Cook, stirring and tossing constantly, until pink and firm, about 3 minutes. Remove the shrimp from the wok and set them aside.
  2. Lower the heat to medium and add 1 tablespoon peanut oil to the wok. Immediately add the dried chiles and stir them for 30 seconds. Add the ginger, garlic, shallot, and scallions. Cook, stirring constantly, for 30 seconds.
  3. Add the sherry, soy sauce, sugar, stock, and sesame oil and stir until the sauce is bubbling and slightly thickened, about 2 minutes.
  4. Add the shrimp to the wok and toss until well coated and heated through. Serve immediately.

DOUBLE SHRIMP IN GARLIC SAUCE Add 2 tablespoons dried shrimp, soaked in water for 10 minutes and drained, with the ginger.

GARLIC SAUCE SHRIMP AND ASPARAGUS Add 1 cup sliced asparagus with the ginger.

GARLIC SAUCE SHRIMP AND BROCCOLI Add 1 cup broccoli florets with the ginger.

GARLIC SAUCE SHRIMP AND CHINESE VEGETABLES Add 1/2 cup canned sliced water chestnuts, drained, and 1/2 cup canned sliced bamboo shoots, drained, with the ginger.

GARLIC SAUCE SHRIMP AND MUSHROOMS Add 1 cup canned straw mushrooms, drained, with the ginger.

GARLIC SAUCE SHRIMP AND NOODLES Pour boiling water over two 2-ounce packages dried bean thread noodles. Soak them for 15 minutes. Add the noodles to the wok with the cooked shrimp. (Do not serve this variation over rice.)

GARLIC SAUCE SHRIMP AND SNOW PEAS Add 1 cup snow peas with the cooked shrimp.

General Tsao’s Shrimp

IT IS SAID THAT this “hot-headed” dish was created for a Chinese general with impeccable culinary and military skills. But because his name slips from Tsao to Tang to Shek, the story is probably the stuff of legend. But so’s the dish—crispy shrimp in a sweet and hot sauce. This Szechwan dish will make a nice contribution to a potluck or buffet, or a satisfying dinner on a cold winter evening. Just be sure to have lots of fluffy white rice ready. MAKES 4 SERVINGS

FOR THE SAUCE

1 tablespoon peanut oil

8 dried red Asian chiles

6 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons minced ginger

1 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons sugar

3 tablespoons black vinegar

1 cup canned or homemade chicken stock

FOR THE SHRIMP

8 cups peanut oil

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

2/3 cup water

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

1 pound medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled and deveined

2 teaspoons cornstarch, dissolved in 1 teaspoon water

  1. To prepare the sauce, heat a large wok or skillet (preferably nonstick) over medium-high heat until it is hot but not smoking. Add the peanut oil and heat until hot, about 15 seconds. Add the chiles and cook, stirring and tossing constantly, for 10 seconds. Add the garlic and ginger; cook, stirring and tossing constantly, for 30 seconds.
  2. Add the salt, sugar, and vinegar. Cook, stirring constantly, for 20 seconds, or until the sugar dissolves. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside while you prepare the shrimp.
  3. To prepare the shrimp, pour the oil into a large saucepan at least 4 inches deep and 10 inches in diameter; the oil should be at least 1 1/2 inches deep but reach no more than halfway up the sides of the pan. Alternatively, fill a deep fryer with oil according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If you’re using a pan, clip a deep-frying thermometer to the inside and place the pan over medium heat. Heat the oil to 375°F. Adjust the heat to maintain that temperature while you prepare the shrimp. If you’re using an electric deep fryer, set the temperature control to 375°F.
  4. Combine the flour, cornstarch, baking powder, and salt in a large mixing bowl. Whisk gently until well combined. Add the water and sesame oil; whisk until the batter is completely smooth.
  5. Dip a shrimp into the batter until it is completely coated and let the excess batter drip off. Gently slide the coated shrimp into the hot oil. Repeat with the remaining shrimp, dipping and frying only as many shrimp at a time as will fit in the pan in one layer without crowding. Fry the shrimp until they are lightly golden, 1 to 2 minutes, turning once or twice with tongs. Remove the shrimp from the oil and drain them on paper towels.
  6. To finish the dish, place the sauce over high heat and bring it to a boil. Add the cornstarch mixture, stirring constantly until the sauce thickens, about 1 minute.
  7. Immediately remove the pan from the heat and add the shrimp. Toss until all the shrimp are well coated in the sauce. Serve with white or brown rice.

GENERAL TSAO’S SHRIMP AND BROCCOLI Reduce the shrimp to 3/4 pound. Dip 2 cups broccoli florets into the batter to coat and deep-fry after the shrimp. Add the broccoli to the sauce as well.

GENERAL TSAO’S SHRIMP AND CHICKEN Reduce the shrimp to 1/2 pound. Dip 1/2 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1-inch cubes, into the batter to coat, and deep-fry, cooking the chicken pieces for 3 to 4 minutes. Add them to the sauce as well.

GENERAL TSAO’S SHRIMP AND SCALLOPS Reduce the shrimp to 1/2 pound. Dip1/2 pound medium sea scallops into batter to coat and deep-fry with the shrimp. Add them to the sauce as well.

GENERAL TSAO’S SHRIMP AND TOFU Reduce the shrimp to 1/2 pound. Slice 1/2 pound firm tofu into 1-inch cubes. Stir the pieces into the heated sauce and simmer for 1 minute before adding the deep-fried shrimp.

Shrimp Gumbo

ONE OF LOUISIANA’S MOST famous dishes, gumbo is Creole rather than Cajun, a dish from the descendents of African slaves, Native Americans, and French traders. The word gumbo is derived from an African word for okra, the dish’s main vegetable and one of its three thickening agents, along with a dark roux (a browned fat and flour mixture) and filé powder (dried sassafras, available in gourmet markets, or from outlets in the Source Guide, page 239). The filé must be added off the flame, because it turns stringy when cooked. Shrimp Gumbo is a one-pot meal, perfect for a crowd—and can easily be doubled or tripled. Serve it over rice or noodles. One of the variations below allows you to fix the traditional Gumbo z’Herbes, a dish served on Good Friday for good luck. MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

FOR THE ROUX

3 tablespoons peanut oil

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

FOR THE GUMBO

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 large onion, coarsely chopped

3 celery stalks, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 cups chopped okra or one 12-ounce package frozen okra, thawed

2 teaspoons minced thyme

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 bay leaves

4 cups fish stock or 2 cups vegetable stock plus 2 cups clam juice

2 pounds medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled and deveined

2 teaspoons file powder

3 dashes Tabasco sauce, or more to taste

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

  1. To prepare the roux, heat a small saucepan or skillet over medium heat until it is hot but not smoking. Add the peanut oil and swirl it around the pan. Whisk the flour into the oil until it is completely incorporated. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, whisking constantly, until the mixture turns a deep brown and smells nutty but is not burnt, about 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside.
  2. To prepare the gumbo, heat a large heavy saucepan or Dutch oven over medium heat until it is hot but not smoking. Add the peanut oil and swirl it around the pan. Add the onion and celery and cook, stirring often, until the vegetables soften, about 3 minutes.
  3. Add the garlic, okra, thyme, cayenne, bay leaves, and stock. Bring to a boil and boil for 1 minute. Stir in the roux. Cook, stirring constantly, until the stock thickens, about 1 minute. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 5 minutes.
  4. Add the shrimp and stir until they are well coated. Cover and cook slowly until the shrimp are pink and firm, about 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, stir in the filé and Tabasco sauce, and season with salt and black pepper. Discard the bay leaves.
  5. Serve immediately, alone, over rice, or over noodles.

BAYOU SHRIMP GUMBO Do not peel the shrimp: cook them in their shells. Or, better yet, buy head-on shrimp, about 3 pounds, and cook them. Add 1 cup chopped cooked ham and one 12-ounce package frozen corn, thawed, with the shrimp.

ROCK SHRIMP GUMBO Substitute 2 pounds peeled and cleaned rock shrimp for the regular shrimp.

SHRIMP AND CRAB GUMBO Reduce the shrimp to 1 pound. Add 1 pound lump crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage, or 2 pounds stone crab claws, with the shrimp.

SHRIMP AND CRAWFISH GUMBO Reduce the shrimp to 1 pound. Add 2 pounds live crawfish with the shrimp, and cook for an additional 5 minutes. Chopped cooked crawfish meat can also be used; add it with the shrimp but do not increase the cooking time.

SHRIMP GUMBO Z’HERBES Increase the stock to 6 cups. Add 1/2 cup each of shredded greens to the pot with the shrimp, choosing a total of seven kinds: mustard greens, turnip greens, collard greens, fennel fronds, dandelion greens, watercress, broccoli rabe, romaine lettuce, escarole, and/or chicory.

TOMATO SHRIMP GUMBO Reduce the stock to 2 cups. Add one 28-ounce can tomatoes, chopped, with their juices, along with the stock.

Honey Grilled Shrimp

THIS IS SUMMER GRILL FARE AT ITS FINEST: sweet, salty, hot shrimp right off the barbecue. You’ll want to have plenty of cold beer or iced tea on hand. You can dip these shrimp in Barbecue Sauce (page 26) or Szechwan Cold Garlic Sauce (page 194), but they’re quite good on their own. Make sure you have enough, because everyone will want another round. MAKES 6 TO 8 APPETIZER SERVINGS OR 4 MAIN-COURSE SERVINGS

2/3 cup fresh lemon juice

2/3 cup soy sauce

2/3 cup dark honey (such as chestnut or pine) or clover honey

2 pounds large shrimp (12 to 15 per pound), peeled, leaving the final segment of the tail shell intact, and deveined

  1. Combine the lemon juice, soy sauce, and honey in a medium bowl. Whisk until well blended.
  2. Place the shrimp in a large bowl and pour the honey mixture over them. Toss until they are well coated. Cover and set aside in a cool place for 30 minutes to marinate.
  3. Meanwhile, light the coals in a barbecue at least 20 minutes before you’re ready to cook the shrimp. Or, if you’re using a gas grill or the broiler, preheat it 5 minutes before you’re ready to cook.
  4. When the coals are glowing red with a thin covering of ash, place the rack on the barbecue. One or two at a time, hold the shrimp by the tails and shake off any excess marinade, then lay the shrimp on the barbecue rack, directly over the coals. Cook for 2 minutes per side, or until the shrimp are firm and the sauce turns golden. Or, if you’re using a broiler, lay the shrimp on a baking sheet and place them 4 inches from the flame. Cook for 2 minutes, turn them with tongs, and cook for 2 more minutes, or until they are firm and the sauce turns golden.
  5. Serve the shrimp hot or at room temperature.

CHINESE HONEY GRILLED SHRIMP Use hoi sin sauce instead of soy sauce.

KEY WEST HONEY GRILLED SHRIMP Substitute Key lime juice, fresh or bottled, for the lemon juice.

SESAME HONEY GRILLED SHRIMP Add 2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil to the marinade.

SPICY HONEY GRILLED SHRIMP Add 4 dashes Tabasco sauce, or more to taste, to the marinade.

THAI HONEY GRILLED SHRIMP Use fish sauce instead of soy sauce, and add 1 teaspoon chili oil.

Iberian Stewed Shrimp

THIS IS A SIMPLIFIED take on a classic Spanish stew, flavored with hazelnuts and thickened with bread. Rich and satisfying, it’s a popular late-night dish in neighborhood restaurants around Madrid. Some of the variations even let you try regional versions of the dish. This stew thickens considerably as it sits, so you may need to thin it out with fish or vegetable stock if you’re making it early in the day or serving leftovers. MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

1/2 cup hazelnuts

3 slices day-old bread, crumbled

1/2 cup tightly packed parsley leaves

3 tablespoons olive oil, plus additional for garnishing

3 leeks, cut lengthwise in half, washed of any sand, and sliced into 1/4-inch half-moons

1 medium onion, coarsely chopped

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 to 2 teaspoons red pepper flakes

One 28-ounce can peeled tomatoes

1/4 teaspoon saffron threads

1 cup frozen peas

1/2 pound green beans, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 cup dry sherry or dry vermouth

1 1/2 cups water

1 1/2 pounds medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled and deveined, or precooked cocktail shrimp, thawed and peeled

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

  1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
  2. Place the hazelnuts in a small baking dish and bake for 10 minutes, or until they give off a light nutty aroma. Shake the pan once or twice to keep the nuts from burning. Remove them from the oven and let cool completely.
  3. Combine the nuts, bread, and parsley in a food processor and pulse 2 or 3 times, until the nuts are finely chopped and the mixture is well blended. Set it aside.
  4. Place the oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the leeks and onion; sauté, stirring often, until the leeks and onions are softened and fragrant, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes. Cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute.
  5. Add the tomatoes to the pot, along with their juice, and break them up with the back of a wooden spoon. Crumble the saffron threads into the pot, then add the peas, green beans, sherry, and water. Bring to a simmer. Cover the pot, reduce the heat to medium-low, and simmer for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.
  6. Add the shrimp and cook, stirring often, until pink and firm, about 3 minutes.
  7. Stir in the hazelnut mixture and cook, stirring often, until the stew thickens, about 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. As a garnish, you can drizzle to 1 teaspoon of olive oil over the stew in each dish as you serve it.

BARCELONA STEWED SHRIMP Omit the saffron. Add 1/4 cup Pernod or pastis with the tomatoes.

BILBAO STEWED SHRIMP Use walnuts instead of the hazelnuts. Add 1/2 cup raisins with the shrimp.

CATALAN STEWED SHRIMP Omit the saffron. Add 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon and 1/2 teaspoon ground allspice with the peas.

FLAVORED IBERIAN STEWED SHRIMP Use a flavored oil, such as basil, sun-dried tomato, or black pepper oil, for garnishing the dish.

IBERIAN STEWED SHRIMP WITH CLAMS AND MUSSELS Add 10 medium clams (such as cherrystone or Pacific littleneck), scrubbed, and 1 pound mussels, scrubbed and debearded, with the shrimp. Cover the pot and cook for an additional 5 minutes, or until the clams and mussels open.

MADEIRA STEWED SHRIMP Use 1/2 cup pine nuts instead of the hazelnuts. Substitute dry Madeira for the sherry.

SEVILLE STEWED SHRIMP Omit the green beans. Add 1 1/2 cups potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes, with the peas.

Kung Pao Shrimp

THE SAUCE FOR THIS fiery farrago from China’s Szechwan province is made from chiles, peanuts, and ginger. Although the dish is usually prepared with chicken, shrimp gives the stir-fry a delicate sweetness that counterbalances its spiciness. Don’t eat the red chiles, just let them flavor the dish. Serve with bowls of fluffy white rice. MAKES 4 SERVINGS

1/4 cup dry sherry

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon hoi sin sauce

2 teaspoons rice wine vinegar

3 tablespoons peanut oil 1 pound medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled and deveined

16 dried red Asian chiles

1 tablespoon minced ginger

3 garlic cloves, minced

1/4 teaspoon Szechwan peppercorns, crushed

2 scallions, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into 1/4-inch strips

1 cup unsalted peanuts

2 teaspoons cornstarch, dissolved in 1 tablespoon water

2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

  1. In a small bowl, whisk together the sherry, soy sauce, hoi sin sauce, and vinegar. Set aside.
  2. Set a large wok or skillet over medium-high heat until it is hot but not smoking. Add the oil and swirl it around the wok. Add the shrimp and stir and toss until pink and firm, about 3 minutes.
  3. Add the chiles, ginger, garlic, Szechwan peppercorns, scallions, green pepper, and peanuts. Stir and toss for 1 minute. Turn the heat to high and add the sherry mixture. Cook, stirring constantly, until the sauce comes to a boil. Add the cornstarch mixture and stir and toss until the mixture thickens, almost instantly. Remove the pan from the heat.
  4. Sprinkle the dish with the sesame oil. Serve hot.

KUNG PAO SHRIMP AND BROCCOLI Omit the green pepper. Add 1 cup broccoli florets with the chiles.

KUNG PAO SHRIMP AND CHICKEN Reduce the shrimp to 1/2 pound. Stir-fry 1/2 pound chicken tenders or 1/2 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1-inch cubes, with the shrimp.

KUNG PAO SHRIMP AND MUSHROOMS Add one 15-ounce can straw mushrooms, drained, with the chiles.

KUNG PAO SHRIMP AND SNOW PEAS Omit the green bell pepper. Add 1 cup snow peas with the sherry mixture.

MILD KUNG PAO SHRIMP Omit the chiles.

TRADITIONAL KUNG PAO SHRIMP Increase the Szechwan peppercorns to 1 teaspoon. Add 1 cup sliced bananas and 1/4 cup shredded basil with the chiles.

Shrimp Lasagne

LONG BEFORE GARFIELD BEGGED for lasagne, this casserole of tomatoes, flat noodles, and cheese was an American favorite. And long before that, lasagne was a Roman favorite: the poet Horace eulogized his lasagne of leeks and noodles (no tomatoes, of course, because the Americas hadn’t been colonized). Shrimp Lasagne makes a great dinner party or buffet dish. But if you’re not having company, leftovers freeze well, cut into squares for individual meals. It can keep for up to 2 months and can be reheated, covered, in a 350°F oven for 30 minutes, or until hot. MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

FOR THE TOMATO SAUCE

1/4 cup olive oil

1 large onion, finely chopped

2 celery stalks, finely chopped

1 carrot, finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons minced parsley

1 tablespoon minced oregano

1 teaspoon minced thyme

1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1/2 cup dry vermouth

1 bay leaf

One 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

FOR THE CHEESE MIXTURE

One 15-ounce container ricotta (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

2 cups mozzarella, shredded (about 8 ounces)

1 large egg

1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 pound dried lasagne noodles

1 1/2 pounds small shrimp (more than 55 per pound), peeled and deveined

3/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (about 3 ounces)

  1. To prepare the tomato sauce, heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, celery, and carrot; sauté, stirring often, until they soften and are fragrant, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds.
  2. Add the parsley, oregano, thyme, and red pepper flakes. Stir for 10 seconds, then add the vermouth. Bring to a boil and cook until the liquid is reduced by half, about 2 minutes.
  3. Add the bay leaf and tomatoes, with their juices, and stir until well combined. Bring the sauce to a simmer, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for 10 minutes, stirring once or twice. Uncover the pan and cook for another 15 minutes or so, stirring often. The sauce should have the consistency of a fairly thick spaghetti sauce.
  4. Season with salt and pepper, remove the pan from the heat, and allow the sauce to cool. Remove and discard the bay leaf.
  5. To prepare the cheese mixture, combine the ricotta, mozzarella, egg, nutmeg, salt, and pepper in a large mixing bowl. Stir until well blended. Set aside.
  6. To cook the noodles, bring 6 quarts salted water to a boil in a large pot. Add the oil, then add the noodles one at a time. Cook, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking, until the noodles are tender and pliable but not soft, 6 to 8 minutes.
  7. Drain the noodles in a colander and rinse them with cold water to prevent sticking. Set aside.
  8. To assemble the lasagne, preheat the oven to 375°F. Lightly oil a 9 × 13-inch baking dish.
  9. Spread one-quarter (about 1 cup) of the tomato sauce over the bottom of the baking dish. Place a single layer of noodles over the sauce, using one-third of them and overlapping the edges slightly. (If they have stuck together in the colander, rinse them with cold water to release them from each other.) Spread half the cheese sauce (about 1 1/2 cups) in an even layer over the noodles. Evenly space half the shrimp in a single layer on top of the cheese mixture. Top the shrimp with another quarter of the tomato sauce. Repeat the layering: noodles, cheese, shrimp, and tomato sauce.
  10. Top with the remaining noodles, overlapping them by at least 1/2 inch and sealing the dish. Spread the remaining tomato sauce evenly over the top, reaching all the way to the edges and corners. Sprinkle evenly with the Parmigiano-Reggiano.
  11. Bake for 50 minutes, or until the lasagne is bubbling and the Parmigiano-Reggiano is golden brown. If the cheese begins to brown too fast, cover the pan loosely with aluminum foil. Remove the pan from the oven and let the lasagne cool for at least 15 minutes before serving.

Lemon Shrimp

THIS IS A SWEET, sour, and salty Chinese dish, perfect as a foil to hotter fare such as Kung Pao Shrimp (page 102) or General Tsao’s Shrimp (page 94), or delicious on its own. The shrimp are deep-fried, then coated with a thick lemon sauce. Serve with white or brown rice. MAKES 4 SERVINGS

FOR THE LEMON SAUCE

Grated zest of 1 lemon

2/3 cup fresh lemon juice, strained

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

1/4 cup canned or homemade chicken stock

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon cornstarch, dissolved in 1 tablespoon water

FOR THE SHRIMP

8 cups peanut oil

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

2/3 cup water

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

1 pound medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled and deveined

  1. To prepare the Lemon Sauce, combine the lemon zest, lemon juice, sugar, stock, and soy sauce in a medium saucepan. Stir over medium heat, until the sugar is completely dissolved and the sauce comes to a boil, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover the pan, and set it aside.
  2. To prepare the shrimp, pour the oil into a large saucepan at least 4 inches deep and 10 inches in diameter; the oil should be at least 1 1/2 inches deep but reach no more than halfway up the sides of the pan. Alternatively, fill an electric deep fryer with oil according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If you are using a pan, clip a deep-frying thermometer to the inside and place the pan over medium heat. Heat the oil to 375°F. Adjust the heat to maintain that temperature while you prepare the shrimp. If you’re using an electric deep fryer, set the temperature control to 375°F.
  3. Combine the flour, cornstarch, baking powder, and salt in a large mixing bowl. Whisk gently until well combined. Add the water and sesame oil and whisk until the batter is completely smooth.
  4. Dip a shrimp into the batter until it is completely coated, and let any excess batter drip off. Gently slide the shrimp into the hot oil. Repeat with the remaining shrimp, dipping and frying only as many shrimp at a time as will fit in the pan in one layer without crowding. Fry the shrimp until lightly golden, 1 to 2 minutes, turning occasionally with tongs. Remove the shrimp from the oil, and drain on paper towels.
  5. To finish the dish, place the lemon sauce over medium-high heat and bring it back to a boil. Add the cornstarch mixture, stirring constantly until the sauce thickens, about 30 seconds.
  6. Place the shrimp on a large platter and pour the sauce over the top. Serve immediately.

HERBED LEMON SHRIMP Add 1 tablespoon chopped parsley and 2 teaspoons chopped tarragon with the lemon juice.

LEMON SHRIMP AND MUSHROOMS Reduce the shrimp to 1/2 pound. Dip 1/2 pound whole button mushrooms, cleaned, in the batter and fry them as you do the shrimp.

LEMON SHRIMP AND SCALLOPS Reduce the shrimp to 1/2 pound. Dip 1/2 pound sea scallops in the batter and fry them as you do the shrimp.

SAVORY LEMON SHRIMP Add 1 tablespoon hoi sin sauce and 1 teaspoon oyster sauce with the lemon juice.

SPICY LEMON SHRIMP Add 8 dried red Asian chiles with the lemon juice.

SZECHWAN LEMON SHRIMP Add 6 dried red Asian chiles and 2 tablespoons Szechwan peppercorns with the lemon juice.

Shrimp Lo Mein

A FAVORITE IN SHANGHAI, Lo Mein is a savory stir-fried dish with round thin noodles, sometimes called Shanghai noodles. You can find them in the Asian section of some supermarkets, in Chinese markets, and through outlets listed in the Source Guide, page 239. In a pinch, substitute spaghetti or Japanese udon noodles. Serve lo mein hot or at room temperature. MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

8 ounces dried Shanghai noodles or spaghetti

1 cup canned or homemade chicken stock

1/4 cup soy sauce

3 tablespoons black vinegar or Worcestershire sauce

2 tablespoons dry sherry

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

1 tablespoon sugar

2 teaspoons cornstarch

3 tablespoons peanut oil, or 1 tablespoon peanut oil if using precooked shrimp

3/4 pound small shrimp (more than 55 per pound), peeled and deveined, or precooked cold-water (or baby) shrimp, thawed

2 tablespoons minced ginger

2 garlic cloves, minced

6 scallions, cut into 1-inch pieces

One 8-ounce can sliced water chestnuts, drained

One 15-ounce can straw mushrooms, drained

  1. Bring 2 quarts salted water to a boil in a large pot over high heat. Add the noodles and cook according to the package instructions, usually 5 to 7 minutes. Drain the noodles in a colander and rinse them with cold water to prevent sticking. Set aside.
  2. Combine the chicken stock, soy sauce, vinegar, sherry, sesame oil, sugar, and cornstarch in a medium bowl, stirring until the cornstarch is completely dissolved. Set aside.
  3. Heat a large wok or skillet (preferably nonstick) over high heat until hot but not smoking. Add 2 tablespoons of the peanut oil and swirl it around to coat the wok. Add the raw shrimp, if using, and stir and toss them until pink and firm, about 2 minutes. Remove from the wok and set them aside.
  4. Add 1 tablespoon peanut oil to the wok and place it back over high heat. Add the ginger, garlic, and scallions and toss and stir for 20 seconds. Add the water chestnuts and mushrooms and toss and stir for another 10 seconds. Add the noodles and toss until all is well incorporated.
  5. Stir the chicken stock mixture to reincorporate the cornstarch, and pour it into the wok. Stir until the mixture comes to a boil and thickens, about 30 seconds. Add the shrimp. Toss and stir until all the ingredients are well coated with the bubbling sauce.
  6. Serve hot or at room temperature.

SESAME SHRIMP LO MEIN Add 1/4 cup white sesame seeds with the ginger. Add 2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil with the cooked shrimp.

SHRIMP LO MEIN WITH BLACK BEANS Reduce the soy sauce to 3 tablespoons. Add 1/4 cup dried salted Chinese black beans, slightly crushed with the side of a chef’s knife or the bottom of a pot, with the cooked shrimp.

SPICY SHRIMP LO MEIN Add 1 teaspoon chili oil, or more to taste, with the cooked shrimp.

Shrimp Maki

IN NORTH AMERICA, sushi comes as a piece of fish either on seasoned rice (nigiri in Japanese— see Shrimp Sushi, page 190) or in a roll (hosomaki, thin rolls, and futomaki, thick rolls). To make maki, or rolls, you’ll need a sushi mat (see page 17), sushi rice, nori, and a large wide shallow dish for cooling the rice. Once you get the hang of it, invite your family and friends to roll their own shrimp maki, with individual sushi mats. MAKES 30 PIECES

FOR THE MAKI

1 pound medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled and deveined, or precooked cocktail shrimp, thawed and peeled

1/2 cup water

3/4 cup rice wine vinegar

5 cups just-cooked short-grain sushi rice (about 2 1/2 cups raw rice, cooked according to the package directions), still hot

1 1/2 teaspoons sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

5 nori sheets

ON THE SIDE

1/4 cup wasabi paste

1/2 cup soy sauce

1/2 cup pickled sliced ginger

Thirty 6-inch bamboo skewers (if starting with raw shrimp)

  1. To prepare the shrimp, if you’re using raw shrimp, thread 1 shrimp onto each skewer, starting at the thick end of the shrimp, pushing the skewer through the shrimp the long way until it comes out of the tail. (This will keep the shrimp from curling up while it cooks.) If you’re using precooked shrimp, omit this step and skip to step 4.
  2. Bring 3 quarts salted water to a boil in large saucepan set over high heat. Fill a large bowl halfway with ice water and set it aside. Add as many shrimp skewers to the saucepan as will fit at a time while allowing the shrimp to be submerged. Cook until the shrimp are pink and firm, about 2 minutes. Using tongs, transfer the shrimp to the ice water. Allow all to cool.
  3. Drain the shrimp and remove from the skewers. Set aside.
  4. To prepare the maki, combine the water and 1/2 cup of the vinegar in a small bowl. Set aside.
  5. In a small bowl or jar, mix together the remaining 1/4 cup vinegar, the sugar, and salt, stirring or shaking the jar until the sugar and salt are completely dissolved. Set it aside.
  6. Spread the hot rice in a wide shallow pan (such as an 11 × 17-inch lipped baking sheet or a 12- to 15-inch shallow round casserole).
  7. Sprinkle the sugared vinegar evenly over the rice. Using a rubber spatula, gently toss the rice, flattening it out after each toss. This will evenly distribute the flavored vinegar while cooling the rice. Be sure to reach the corners and include all the rice in your tossing and spreading. If possible, use your other hand to fan the rice with a magazine or hand-held fan at the same time. The rice should be tossed and spread until it is just cool to the touch and slightly sticky.
  8. Place a bamboo rolling mat on your work surface with one of the short ends nearest you. Lay a nori sheet on the rolling mat, facing in the same direction. Moisten your fingers in the prepared water and vinegar mixture, and use your fingers to spread 1 cup of the rice evenly over the nori. Use your index finger to spread about 1 1/2 teaspoons of the wasabi paste evenly across the center of the rice, from right to left. Place 6 cooked shrimp in a row, covering the line of wasabi. Switch the direction of each shrimp so that the thinner tails overlap the thicker ends, and overlap them as necessary to keep all 6 shrimp on the rice.
  9. Place your fingers on the shrimp to hold them down as you start to roll up the maki roll, and use your thumbs to lift the edge of the bamboo mat closest to you. Gently but firmly fold the entire roll over, sealing it. Gently squeeze the mat to create a compact cylinder. Remove the maki from the mat and set aside. Repeat with the remaining nori sheets, rice, and shrimp.
  10. Using a wet knife, slice each maki into 6 pieces. Serve immediately, with wasabi paste, the soy sauce, and pickled ginger on the side. (You can also make a soy sauce paste by mixing 5 parts soy sauce to 1 part wasabi paste, or more to taste.)

Taking care not to make the maki too big, place other ingredients alongside the shrimp before you roll the maki.

Bean sprouts • Minced ginger • Paper-thin carrot slices (use a vegetable peeler) • Paper-thin cucumber slices • Picked jalapeño rings • Radish sprouts • Thinly sliced peeled Hass avocado • Thinly sliced preserved daikon radish

Shrimp Mole

MOLE (FROM A NAHUATL WORD MEANING “JUMBLED”) is a stewed sauce of chiles, a favorite of the Aztecs, still served as an accompaniment to grilled or roasted meats. This mole recipe uses chocolate, probably not the most authentic version of the dish, but now surely the most famous. Chocolate gives the sauce a sweetened bitterness that’s impossible to match. Mole takes quite a long time to prepare, but this recipe makes about 6 cups more than you need, so you can freeze the extra in small containers to use as a sauce, thinned out with chicken stock, for grilled steaks, chicken, or fish—or for more Shrimp Mole at a later date. There really are no variations here, but plenty of different suggestions for serving. MAKES 4 SERVINGS

1 1/2 cups Mole (recipe follows)

1/4 cup canned or homemade chicken stock, plus additional for thinning the mole if desired

1 1/2 pounds large shrimp (12 to 15 per pound), peeled and deveined

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 teaspoons pure chile powder

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon minced oregano

1/2 teaspoon salt

Tortillas and chopped lettuce as garnish

  1. Combine the mole and chicken stock in a small saucepan, place it over low heat, and stir until the mole is smooth and the mixture comes to a slow simmer. The mole should be the consistency of a thick spaghetti sauce. If it is too thick, thin it out with more stock, 1 tablespoon at a time, until the desired consistency is reached. Remove the pan from the heat and cover it to keep warm while you prepare the shrimp.
  2. Preheat the broiler.
  3. In a large bowl, combine the shrimp, oil, chile powder, cumin, oregano, and salt. Toss until the spices are evenly distributed and the shrimp are well coated.
  4. Place the shrimp in a single layer on the broiler pan or a lipped cookie sheet. Broil for 2 minutes, then turn the shrimp with tongs or a spatula and broil for 2 more minutes, or until pink and firm.
  5. Divide the shrimp among four plates, and spoon about 1/3 cup mole over the shrimp on each plate. Serve immediately with tortillas and chopped lettuce as a garnish.

Mole

MAKES ABOUT 2 QUARTS

8 ancho chiles

8 mulato chiles

8 pasilla chiles

8 dried figs

5 medium plum tomatoes

6 medium tomatillos, husks removed and rinsed

1/4 cup white sesame seeds

1/3 cup unsalted, shelled raw pepitas (also called pumpkin seeds)

1/3 cup sliced almonds

2 teaspoons peanut oil

1 ripe plantain, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch rounds

6 garlic cloves

4 cups canned or homemade chicken stock

3 tablespoons vegetable shortening or lard

5 teaspoons ground cinnamon

2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

2 ounces semisweet chocolate, finely chopped

2 ounces unsweetened chocolate, finely chopped

2 teaspoons honey

  1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
  2. Split the anchos, mulatos, and pasillas open and remove the stems and seeds. Tear or break the chiles into large pieces and place them on a baking sheet in one layer. Bake them for 3 to 5 minutes, or until they give off a sweet, peppery aroma.
  3. Transfer the chile pieces to a large bowl and cover them with boiling water. You may need to place a small plate on top to ensure that the chiles stay fully submerged. Set aside.
  4. Place the figs in a small bowl and cover with boiling water. Set aside.
  5. Preheat the broiler.
  6. Place the plum tomatoes and tomatillos on the broiler pan or a baking sheet and place them under the broiler to char them, about 5 minutes. Turn them as necessary to ensure that they are blackened all over. Transfer to a large bowl and set aside.
  7. Place the sesame seeds in a medium skillet over medium heat and toast, stirring and tossing constantly, until they give off a slightly nutty aroma and begin to turn light brown, about 3 minutes. Add the sesame seeds to the tomatoes.
  8. Place the skillet back over medium heat and add the pepitas. Stir and toss until the seeds pop and begin to brown lightly, about 2 minutes. Add the pepitas to the tomatoes.
  9. Place the skillet back on the heat and add the almonds. Stir and toss until the almonds give off a nutty aroma and begin to brown lightly, about 2 minutes. Transfer to the bowl of tomatoes.
  10. Heat the peanut oil in the same skillet over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the plantain slices in one layer and cook until they are lightly browned on the bottom, about 2 minutes. Turn the plantain slices over, add the garlic, and cook until the plantains are tender and lightly browned on the second side, about 2 minutes more. Transfer the plantains and garlic to the bowl of tomatoes.
  11. Drain the chiles and figs and add them to the bowl. Stir all the ingredients until they are well combined. Purée the ingredients in a food processor or blender, adding just enough stock so the mixture blends easily. You may need to purée the ingredients in batches, using only as much stock as necessary for each batch.
  12. Melt the shortening in a deep pot or a large Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the purée, along with any remaining stock, the cinnamon, salt, black pepper, allspice, and cloves. Stir until the stock and spices are incorporated and the mixture comes to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low. Add the chocolate and honey and cook, stirring constantly, for 15 minutes.
  13. The mole will be thick and slightly grainy from bits of nuts and sesame seed hulls that did not completely purée. If desired, strain the sauce through a sieve, rubbing and pushing it through with the back of a wooden spoon or heavy-duty rubber spatula. (The mole will keep for up to 2 weeks tightly covered in the refrigerator, or up to 6 months in the freezer. It’s best to freeze the mole in 1-cup containers, so that you don’t need to defrost more than you need. Before serving, thin the mole with additional stock until it is the consistency of a thick spaghetti sauce.)

SERVING SUGGESTIONS

Shrimp Mole is great eaten with or inside warmed flour or corn tortillas. You can accompany it with:

Black beans or refried beans • Purchased guacamole • Rice • Shredded Monterey Jack • Sliced Hass avocados • Sliced mango • Sliced pickled jalapeños • Sliced plums • Sliced red onions • Sliced tomatoes

Shrimp Mousse with Hollandaise

A HOT, CREAMY SHRIMP MOUSSE is an elegant addition to any buffet, especially when there’s hollandaise sauce on the side. Serve the mousse with toast points, crackers, or crusty bread. You can also make it ahead and serve it cold or at room temperature, with a green salad or steamed vegetables. MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

1 1/2 pounds small shrimp (more than 55 per pound), peeled and deveined

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper

1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg

2 cups heavy cream

Unsalted butter for the baking dish and foil

Easy Blender Hollandaise Sauce (recipe follows)

  1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a 9 × 5-inch loaf pan and set it aside. Butter a piece of aluminum foil long enough to cover the pan and set the foil aside.
  2. Combine the shrimp, salt, pepper, and nutmeg in the food processor and process until the shrimp are very finely chopped but not puréed, about 20 seconds. Scrape down the bowl.
  3. With the motor running, slowly pour the cream through the feed tube, processing until the shrimp has absorbed all the cream and the mixture is smooth.
  4. Spoon the shrimp mixture into the prepared pan. Pack it down tightly so that there are no air spaces. Cover the loaf pan with the foil, buttered side down.
  5. Place the loaf pan in a deep 9 × 13-inch baking pan and fill the baking pan with hot water to reach halfway up the sides of the loaf pan. Bake for 35 minutes, or until the mousse is pink and the edges have started to pull away from the sides of the loaf pan.
  6. Remove the loaf pan from the larger pan and drain off any liquid that has accumulated around the mousse. Unmold the mousse onto a serving platter. Serve hot, warm, or cold, with the hollandaise sauce on the side.

Easy Blender Hollandaise Sauce

3 large egg yolks, at room temperature

2 tablespoons boiling water

1/2 pound unsalted butter (2 sticks), melted

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon salt, or more to taste

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or more to taste

Place the egg yolks in a blender. Cover the blender, turn it on low, and pour the boiling water through the hole in the lid. With the blender still running, drizzle in the melted butter in a thin stream. Blend until the sauce is thickened and pale yellow. Add the mustard, lemon juice, salt, and pepper; blend until smooth. Check for seasoning, and add more salt and pepper, if desired. Serve immediately.

HERBED SHRIMP MOUSSE Add 1 tablespoon minced parsley and 2 teaspoons minced tarragon to the shrimp in the food processor.

SHRIMP TERRINE Pour half the shrimp mixture into the prepared loaf pan. Arrange a layer of vegetables such as asparagus, baby carrots, or thinly sliced zucchini over the mousse. Top with the remaining mousse. Bake as directed.

Shrimp Mussel and Clam Stew

THIS HEARTY STEW GETS its depth from beer. Use a premium-quality dark or light beer, preferably one with plenty of barley and hops. (Don’t use a fruit-flavored beer.) Since mussels and clams don’t keep well, make this stew the day you buy them. For storage tips for mussels and clams, see page 9. Have plenty of crunchy bread on hand to sop up every drop of the broth. MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/2-pound piece pancetta, diced, or Canadian bacon, diced

1 large onion, cut into 1/4-inch

rings

3 celery stalks, cut into 1-inch pieces

4 medium tomatoes, seeded and finely chopped

1/2 cup packed shredded basil

2 teaspoons minced thyme

1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

One 12-ounce bottle beer

2 cups fish stock or clam juice

1 pound large shrimp (12 to 15 per pound), peeled and deveined

1 pound mussels, scrubbed and debearded

12 medium clams (such as cherrystone or Pacific littleneck), scrubbed

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or more to taste

1/4 cup finely chopped parsley

  1. Heat the oil in a large soup pot over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook, stirring often, until lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Add the onion and celery and cook, stirring often, until the onion is softened and translucent, about 4 minutes.
  2. Add the tomatoes, basil, thyme, and red pepper flakes. Raise the heat to high and cook for 1 minute. Pour the beer and stock into the pot and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to medium and add the shrimp, mussels, and clams. Toss the shellfish gently until they and the vegetables are well combined. Cover and cook for 6 minutes, or until the shrimp are pink and firm and the clams and mussels have opened.
  3. Add the salt, pepper, and parsley. Serve immediately.

BELGIAN SHRIMP AND MUSSEL STEW Omit the basil and clams, and use 2 pounds mussels, scrubbed and debearded. Add 1 tablespoon caraway seeds with the tomatoes.

FRENCH SHRIMP, MUSSEL, AND CLAM STEW Omit the beer. Substitute 1 tablespoon minced tarragon for the basil, and add 2 cups red wine with the stock.

JAPANESE SHRIMP, MUSSEL, AND CLAM STEW Omit the basil and beer. Add 2 cups sake and 1 tablespoon minced ginger with the stock.

SHRIMP AND COCKLES STEW Omit the clams and mussels. Add 2 pounds New Zealand cockles, scrubbed, with the shrimp.

SPANISH SHRIMP, MUSSEL, AND CLAM STEW Omit the basil. Add 1/4 teaspoon crumbled saffron threads and 2 garlic cloves, minced, with the tomatoes. Add 1 cup fresh or frozen peas with the shellfish. Drizzle 1 teaspoon olive oil, or more to taste, over each serving of stew.

Shrimp Newburg

IN 1876, when the United States was reeling from the economic aftershocks of the Civil War, Delmonico’s, that Manhattan institution of the good life, wanted to make a dish that could take away the nation’s woes. Voilà, Lobster Newburg: an opulent seafood concoction in a rich cream sauce. Traditionally, Newburgs are served over buttered toast points. You might want to try this one over wide egg noodles, alongside white rice, or in hollowed-out bread bowls. MAKES 4 SERVINGS

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, or 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, if using precooked shrimp

1 pound medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled and deveined, or precooked cocktail shrimp, thawed and peeled

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 cups half-and-half

2 large egg yolks

3 tablespoons dry sherry

1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg

1 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

  1. If using raw shrimp, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the shrimp and cook, stirring often, until pink and firm, about 3 minutes. Cover the skillet to keep the shrimp warm and set it aside while you prepare the sauce. If using precooked shrimp, omit this step.
  2. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a large heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add the flour and whisk until it is completely incorporated. Continue to cook and whisk for 2 minutes, instantly lowering the heat to low if the mixture starts to brown, or simply removing the pan from the heat.
  3. Reduce the heat to low and slowly whisk in the half-and-half. Cook, whisking constantly, until the sauce is thickened and smooth, about 3 minutes. Reduce the heat so that the sauce barely bubbles.
  4. Place the egg yolks in a medium bowl and beat them lightly with a fork or a small whisk. Slowly beat 2 tablespoons of the hot cream sauce into the eggs. (This will raise the temperature of the egg yolks without scrambling them.) Whisking constantly, add the warmed egg yolks back into the pan of sauce, making sure the sauce does not come back to a boil. Quickly whisk in the sherry, nutmeg, salt, and pepper.
  5. Add the shrimp to the sauce and heat, without boiling, until they are warmed through. Serve immediately.

PORTUGUESE SHRIMP NEWBURG Substitute dry Madeira for the sherry, and add 3 dashes Tabasco sauce, or more to taste, with it.

SHRIMP AND CRAB NEWBURG Reduce the shrimp to 1/2 pound. Add 1/2 pound lump crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage, with the sherry.

SHRIMP AND LOBSTER NEWBURG Reduce the shrimp to 1/2 pound. Stir 1/2 pound cooked lobster, chopped, into the sauce when you add the cooked shrimp.

SHRIMP AND OYSTER NEWBURG Add 1/2 cup shucked oysters (about 6) after you add the egg yolk mixture to the sauce.

SHRIMP AND PEA NEWBURG Add one 10-ounce package frozen peas, thawed, after you add the egg yolk mixture to the sauce.

SHRIMP AND SCALLOP NEWBURG Reduce the shrimp to 1/2 pound. Cook 1/2 pound sea scallops, cut in half, with the raw shrimp.

Shrimp Noodle Soup

IN TOKYO’S NOODLE SHOPS, businessmen and construction workers sit side by side, slurping thick noodles out of bowls of savory steaming broth. This recipe simplifies the soup, making it an easy lunch or dinner for you and yours, but the variations allow you to experiment with more exotic tastes, deeper flavors, more extraordinary textures. MAKES 6 SERVINGS

2 teaspoons vegetable oil

1 garlic clove, minced

1 tablespoon minced ginger

12 shiitake mushrooms, stems removed and discarded, caps cleaned and thinly sliced

1 cup snow peas

1 small Napa cabbage, shredded

1/4 cup dry sake

1 tablespoon soy sauce

6 cups fish stock or 4 cups vegetable stock plus 2 cups clam juice

1 pound small shrimp (more than 55 per pound), peeled and deveined, or precooked cold-water (or baby) shrimp, thawed

1/2 pound udon noodles or flat egg noodles, cooked according to the package directions, drained and rinsed

2 scallions, cut into 1-inch pieces

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

  1. Heat the oil in a large soup pot over medium heat. Add the garlic, ginger, and mushrooms; cook, stirring constantly, for 30 seconds. Add the snow peas and cabbage and toss them in the oil for 10 seconds.
  2. Add the sake and cook for 2 minutes, stirring often. The cabbage will wilt, giving off much of its liquid as the steam from the sake rises. Add the soy sauce and stock; bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover the pot, and cook for 10 minutes.
  3. Raise the heat to medium. Add the shrimp and cook until pink and firm, about 3 minutes. If using precooked shrimp, warm only 1 minute.
  4. Add the noodles and scallions and cook for 2 minutes, or until the soup returns to a simmer and the noodles are heated through. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

CHINESE SHRIMP NOODLE SOUP Omit the soy sauce. Add 1 tablespoon hoi sin sauce, 2 teaspoons black vinegar, and 1 teaspoon oyster sauce with the stock.

EGG DROP SHRIMP NOODLE SOUP Once the soup is cooked and simmering, slowly drizzle in 1 large beaten egg, stirring constantly until the egg cooks in ribbons.

HOT AND SAVORY SHRIMP NOODLE SOUP Omit the soy sauce. Add 2 teaspoons fish sauce and 1 teaspoon chili oil with the stock.

HOT-AND-SOUR SHRIMP NOODLE SOUP Add 2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar and 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes with the soy sauce.

SHRIMP AND FISH NOODLE SOUP Reduce the shrimp to 1/2 pound. Add 1/2 pound fish fillets, cut into 1-inch cubes and picked over for bones, with the shrimp.

SHRIMP AND SCALLOP NOODLE SOUP Reduce the shrimp to 1/2 pound. Add 1/2 pound sea scallops, cut in half, with the shrimp.

WAKAME SHRIMP NOODLE SOUP Add 1/4 cup dried wakame (edible seaweed, available in Japanese markets and health food stores) with the soy sauce. Increase the stock to 8 cups.

Shrimp Pad Thai

PAD THAI IS A sweet, salty, and spicy mix of noodles, bean sprouts, scrambled eggs, and shrimp. It’s the most familiar Thai dish in North America. Milky white rice noodles (sometimes called rice stick noodles) are sold in Asian markets or in the Asian section of some supermarkets. Prepare the rest of the ingredients while the noodles are soaking because the dish comes together quickly. Serve Pad Thai hot, right out of the wok, with lime wedges and a bottle of chili oil on the side, so your friends and family can spice the dish to their tastes. MAKES 4 SERVINGS

7 ounces dried rice (or rice stick) noodles, about 1/4 inch thick

1/4 cup packed brown sugar

6 tablespoons fish sauce

1/4 cup hoi sin sauce

1/4 cup canned or homemade chicken stock

2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons peanut oil

2 large eggs, beaten until frothy

4 scallions, cut into 1-inch pieces

3 garlic cloves, minced

3/4 pound medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled and deveined

1 cup bean sprouts

1/4 cup unsalted peanuts

1/4 cup finely chopped cilantro

1/2 teaspoon chili oil

Juice of 1 lime

1. Soak the rice noodles in warm water for 10 minutes.

2. Bring 2 quarts salted water to a boil in a large pan set over high heat. Lift the noodles from the warm water and drop them into the boiling water. Cook for 2 minutes. Drain the noodles in a colander and rinse them under cold water to keep them from sticking. Set aside.

3. Combine the brown sugar, fish sauce, hoi sin sauce, and stock in a small bowl. Stir until the sugar is completely dissolved. Set aside.

4. Heat a large wok or skillet (preferably nonstick) over medium heat until it is hot but not smoking. Add 2 teaspoons of the peanut oil and swirl it around to coat the pan. Add the beaten eggs and cook, stirring occasionally, to scramble them just until they are set, about 1 minute. Transfer the eggs to a plate and set aside.

5. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil to the wok and raise the heat to high. When the oil is hot, add the scallions and garlic and cook, stirring constantly, for 15 seconds. Add the shrimp and stir and toss until pink and firm, about 3 minutes.

6. Lower the heat to medium-high and add the bean sprouts, noodles, scrambled eggs, and sauce mixture. Toss and stir for 10 seconds, then raise the heat to high. When the sauce comes to a boil, add the nuts, cilantro, and chili oil. Toss and stir until well combined.

7. Transfer the pad Thai to a serving bowl and sprinkle with lime juice. Serve immediately.

BANGKOK-STYLE SHRIMP PAD THAI Omit the brown sugar, and reduce the fish sauce to 1/4 cup. Add 2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar and 3 tablespoons tamarind paste (available in Indian and some Asian markets) to the fish sauce.

CARROT AND SHRIMP PAD THAI Omit the bean sprouts. Add 1 cup shredded carrots with the cooked noodles.

SHRIMP AND SCALLOP PAD THAI Reduce the shrimp to 1/2 pound. Add 1/2 pound sea scallops, cut in half, with the shrimp.

SHRIMP AND TOFU PAD THAI Reduce the shrimp to 1/2 pound. Add1/2 pound firm tofu, diced into 1-inch cubes, with the bean sprouts.

Shrimp Paella

THE WORD PAELLA ACTUALLY refers to the flat, wide two-handled pan you’ll need to create this saffron-scented Spanish delicacy of seafood, vegetables, and seasoned short-grained rice. Spanish Bajia rice is preferred (available in some Latin American and specialty markets), but you can substitute Arborio, which is widely available in supermarkets. Although some of the cooking is last minute, Shrimp Paella will make your next dinner party an elegant affair. MAKES ABOUT 6 SERVINGS

2 pounds large shrimp (12 to 15 per pound), peeled and deveined, shells reserved

6 cups fish stock or 3 cups vegetable stock plus 3 cups clam juice

1/4 teaspoon saffron threads

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium onion, minced

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 bay leaf

1 tablespoon minced thyme

1 tablespoon chopped rosemary

1 teaspoon sweet paprika

2 medium tomatoes, chopped

2 cups Spanish Bajia rice or Italian Arborio rice

1 teaspoon salt, or more to taste

1 cup fresh or thawed frozen peas

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. Combine the shrimp shells and stock in a large pot. Crumble in the saffron. Place the pot over high heat and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer for 15 minutes. Using a fine-mesh strainer, strain the stock into a large saucepan. Place the pan over medium heat and bring the stock back to simmer. Adjust the heat so the stock barely bubbles.

2. Preheat the oven to 400°F.

3. Place the oil in a 14- or 16-inch paella pan and heat over low heat for 1 minute. Add the onion, garlic, bay leaf, thyme, and rosemary. Cook, stirring often, until the onion is lightly browned and very soft, about 15 minutes.

4. Add the paprika and tomatoes, raise the heat to medium, and cook until the tomatoes give off their liquid and the juices are reduced to a thin glaze, about 5 minutes.

5. Add the rice and stir until it is well mixed with the tomatoes and onions. Add the hot stock and the salt and reduce the heat to low. Simmer the rice slowly—just one or two bubbles at a time—uncovered, stirring frequently, for 15 minutes. Should the pan become too dry, lower the heat and add water 1 tablespoon at a time until the rice is again moistened. (You do not want to make a soup.)

6. Stir the peas into the rice. Push the shrimp into the rice, distributing it evenly in one layer. Again, if the rice is dry or sticking to the pan, add 1 to 2 tablespoons water.

7. Place the pan in the oven and bake for 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and cover loosely with foil. Set aside for 10 minutes.

8. Discard the bay leaf and serve the paella hot or at room temperature.

SHRIMP AND CLAM PAELLA Before the paella goes in the oven, top it with 16 medium clams (such as cherrystone or Pacific littleneck), scrubbed. If the clams have not opened after 10 minutes, bake for an additional 5 minutes.

SHRIMP AND DUCK CONFIT PAELLA Pull the meat off 2 legs of duck confit; you should have about 2/3 cup meat. Shred it and push the meat into the rice mixture with the shrimp. Duck confit is available at many gourmet markets.

SHRIMP AND LOBSTER PAELLA Before the paella goes in the oven, lay 4 frozen lobster tails, thawed and split lengthwise in half, or 4 fresh tails, split lengthwise in half, over the dish. Increase the baking time to 15 minutes.

SHRIMP AND MUSSELS PAELLA Before the paella goes in the oven, top it with 2 pounds mussels, scrubbed and debearded. If the mussels have not opened after 10 minutes, bake for an additional 5 minutes. Discard any unopened mussels.

SHRIMP AND SAUSAGE PAELLA Reduce the shrimp to 11/4 pounds. Add 1 pound cooked spicy sausage (such as andouille, chorizo, or Italian pork sausage), cut into 1-inch pieces, with the shrimp.

SHRIMP AND VEGETABLE PAELLA Skip making the stock, and use 11/2 quarts Court Bouillon (page 43). Add 1 cup sliced carrots, 1 cup sliced parsnips, and 1 bell pepper, cored, seeded, and coarsely chopped, with the tomatoes.