ANATOMY OF A S’MORE

As an enthusiastic camper and mother of two scouts, I’m frequently reminded that the classic s’more (graham crackers, toasted marshmallows, Hershey’s chocolate bar) has stood the test of time for a reason—it’s perfect. In fact, it might seem that meddling with the equation is unnecessary or just plain wrong, like remaking an Elvis hit. And yet, spectacular things can come from tweaking tradition (have you heard Lucinda Williams’s version of Gram Parsons’s “Return of the Grievous Angel”?). All you need is a sandwich base that stands in for the graham cracker, something gooey and creamy to meld the goodness together, and anything else you might crave. Here, a flurry of options: