Abelmann, Nancy, 28n63
abjection, 341
Acapulco trade, 149–50
Achieving the Impossible Dream (Maki, Kitano, and Berthold), 145n28
Adams, Wanda, 34, 37, 39, 43, 45, 49n1
adobo, 150, 157–67, 170, 181, 183, 306
adoption, of Chinese children, 2–3
Adventures in Oriental Cooking (Nix), 203
Afghan: communities in the U.S., 249–50
cuisine, 251
immigrants, 250
Afghan Uzbek Americans, 254
African American(s): in Los Angeles, 84, 88
representations, 2
studies, 6
agrarian Protestant movement, 347
Aklat ng pagluluto (Ignacio), 182
Albers, Clem, 128
Alice B. Toklas Cook Book (Toklas), 354
Alice Waters and Chez Panisse (McNamee), 275
Alien Land Laws, 255, 281, 334
Alimentary Tracks (Parama), 384
Allen, Ted, 368
Allison, Anne, 34
Aloha Shoyu Company, 221–22
America Is in the Heart (Bulosan), 150, 166
American Federation of Labor (AFL), 63–65
American food system: Asian American contributions to, 275–85
size, 274–75. See also Asian American(s), farmers; Asian American(s), retailers
American Red Cross (ARC), 269–70
American School Food Service Association, 38
American Tatar Association, 250
Americanization, 164
of Japanese Americans, 126, 133
of Southeast Asian refugees, 3
through food, 32–36, 39–40, 51n13, 164, 177–81
Amsterdam World’s Fair, 215
Anderson, Benedict, 374. See also imagined communities
Angelenos, 14
anticolonial movements, 196
Appiah, Kwame, 372
Arcega, Michael, 327–28. See also SPAM/MAPS: Oceana; SPAM/MAPS: World
area studies, 6
Asian American(s): art, 309, 317, 322n42
artists, 309–11
contribution to American food system, 275–85
contribution to California cuisine, 275–78
cultural hybridity, 90
ethnic identity, 305
farmers, 280–85
identity politics, 311
meanings, 1, 7, 304–6, 311, 317–18, 318n3
movement, 304
racialization, 2–4, 6, 90, 188, 305–6, 356
subjectivity, 8
yellow peril, 126, 131–33, 133
Asian American studies, 3, 306
intersection with food studies, 3
transnational scope, 394
Asian fusion cuisine, 232, 241, 243
Asian Latino fusion cuisine, 8, 243
Asian/Pacific cuisine: American women as experts, 186–87, 200–201
early American fascination, 189–90
rise to popularity, 200–204
white women’s interest, 190–95
Asociación de loncheras, 78
assimilation: agents, 39
of Japanese Americans, 126, 132
Atomettes, 270
Austria World’s Fair, 215
authenticity, 4, 7–8, 213, 223–24, 289–91, 297–99, 313, 355, 378, 382
culinary, 289–90, 292–94, 297. See also inauthenticity
Azuma, Eiichiro, 257
bagoong, 101, 149, 150, 155, 160, 161, 162
Banham, Rayner, 15
Barbas, Samantha, 90
Bayonet Constitution, 342
Beilenson, Edna, 200–201. See also Simple Oriental Cookery
Bend It Like Beckham (film), 394, 400. See also Chadha, Gurinder
Bengali American, 393
Berges, Paul, 407n10. See also Mistress of Spices
Berkeley Bowl Market, 284
Biag ti agtrabajo (The Lives of Laborers), 348–49. See also Lagaso Goldberg, Trisha
bibimbap, 306
Big Five, 342–43. See also Kubo, Mat
Biological Diversity Act of India, 387
biopower, 376
Bittman, Mark, 281. See also Food Matters: A Guide to Conscious Eating
Black, Shameem, 373–74, 378–79, 388, 390n12. See also “gastropoetics”
Bodies in Motion (Mohanraj), 8–9, 393, 400–405
gastro-pornography, 402–3
Bollywood, 399
Bolshevik invasion, 247
Book of Salt, The (Truong), 8, 354–56
authenticity, 355
colonial mimicry, 365
diaspora, 362–63
queer community formation, 357, 360–62
queer desire, 355
queer diasporic Vietnamese subjectivity, 356–57
Bourdain, Anthony, 235, 294–97. See also No Reservations
Bourriaud, Nicolas, 344–45. See also “relational aesthetics”
box-lunch socials, 265
Brennan, Jennifer, 192–93, 202. See also The Original Thai Cookbook
Brennan, Timothy, 384–85
Brillat-Savarin, Jean Anthelme, 2
Bruni, Frank, 367
Bt brinjal, 379, 387. See also Monsanto
Buaken, Manuel, 162. See also I Have Lived with the American People
Buettner, Elizabeth, 397
Building Chickens out of Chicken Legs (Williams-Forson), 2
Bulosan, Carlos, 150. See also America Is in the Heart
Byrne, Ray, 89
cafeteria ladies, 6, 31–33, 38–42, 50n3
agents of assimilation, 39
entrepreneurs, 41
California cuisine, 8, 111, 114–15, 241, 275
Asian American influence, 275–78
emergence, 275–78
movement, 284
Cambodian American, 24
Cambodian Doughnut Dreams (film), 23
Cambodians in the U.S.: arrival in the United States, 13
entry into donut business, 13–14, 16
ethnic enclaves, 22
history as refugees, 14
identity, 22–24
Camp Pendleton, Oceanside, California, 13
cannery, 4, 148, 156, 160, 161
Capra, Frank, 133. See also Prelude to War
Cargill, 385–88
Cavendish, William Spencer, 329
Census of Agriculture, 282, 284, 287n30
Central Asian: cuisine, 246, 254
community organizations, 249–50
food, 246–49
groups, 251
neighborhoods, 249–54
restaurants, 252, 254. See also Turkic; Uzbek
Central Asian Americans, 253
Chadha, Gurinder, 394, 407n9, 407n10. See also Bend It Like Beckham; It’s a Wonderful Afterlife; Mistress of Spices
Chan, Gaye, 345–48. See also DownWind Productions; Eating in Public
Chan, Sucheng, 23. See also Survivors: Cambodian Refugees in the United States
Chen, Ta, 67
Chiang, Cecilia, 276
child labor: in donut shops, 19
in ethnic businesses, 18–19
in school cafeterias, 42–43
Child Nutrition Archives, 32
Child, Julia, 110
children: as consumers, 35
as decision makers, 35
China, racialized discourse on, 2–3
Chinatown, 54, 59–60, 105, 162–65, 276–77, 295
as place of residence for other ethnic groups, 165
tourism, 60. See also “slum-mers”; “slumming”; “rubberneckers”
Chinese American: food, 90, 260
Chinese Consolidated Benevolent Association, 65–66
Chinese Exclusion Laws, 54, 57, 63, 256
strategies to circumvent, 57–58
depictions of, 54
mainstream popularity, 54
as a symbol of Americanization, 164
as the ultimate “ethnic”
American fast food, 5
Chinese Hand Laundry Alliance, 64–65
Chinese Latino restaurants, 232, 244n2
Chinese Restaurant Association, 65. See also Chinese Restaurant Workers and Merchants’ Association
Chinese Restaurant Workers and Merchants’ Association, 65
Chinese restaurants, 4, 189–90
Americanized restaurants, 62
in California, 164–66
in Hawai‘i, 101–2
labor conditions, 54–55, 61–63, 65–77
labor organizing, 63–65
regulation of, 65–66
as a space for ethnic groups, 165–66, 261
China Salvation Times (newspaper), 64
Chinese, racialized discourse on, 2–3
Chock, Eric, 217
chop suey, 4, 54, 60–61, 72n1, 90, 164–66, 167, 189, 260–61
an American staple, 61
symbol of cosmopolitanism, 261
Choy, Sam, 106, 109, 111, 113, 115–17, 120n39, 222
Christian Century (magazine), 138
Chun, Kaili, 332–33
citizen(s): flexible, 372
citizenship, 3, 24, 34–35, 38, 43–44
and property ownership, 171
psychic, 341
supranational, 389n8
City of Tokyo (ship), 216–17
civil rights: movement, 304
organization, 219
Civil War, American, 247
American military expansion, 188, 195
cultural exchange programs, 198
culture of containment, 196
policy of integration, 196, 200
promotion of tourism, 197–200
role of food, 187–89, 191, 195
role of white women, 187–89, 191, 196
U.S. cultural production, 188, 196. See also imperialism, U.S.
Cold War Orientalism (Klein), 196
colonial mimicry, 365
colonialism: European, 193–95
Japanese, 256
in Oceana, 327
Russian, 247
Spanish, 149, 178. See also colonialism American in the Philippines
colonialism, American, in the Philippines: advertising American goods, 180–81
American public school system, 152–53, 177–70
civilizing mission, 152–53
cooking lessons in schools, 178–79
creation of middle-class consumption practices, 179–80
dislocation of small landholders, 151
domestic science, 152–53
gendered education system, 152–53, 177, 179
promotion of Western cookbooks, 181–84
provincial poverty, 151–52
racialization of Filipinas/os, 153
racialization of Filipina/o food, 153, 178
shaping Filipina/o diet, 7, 147, 152–53, 171, 177–84, 189, 192, 336
comfort food, 38, 44, 241–43, 292
compulsory heterosexuality, 400
Congressional Committee on the Wartime Relocation and Interment of Civilians (CWRIC), 126
Conroy, Hilary, 216
“contrapuntal analysis,” 346
Cook, James, 214
Cook for You, Cook for Me, 344. See also Kubo, Mat
Cooking with Stella (film), 407n10. See also Mehta, Deepa
Coontz, Stephanie, 141
Copeland, Edwin Bingham, 179. See also Elements of Philippine Agriculture
Corn Blue Room, 350. See also Rickard, Jolene
corporations: lobbying, 386
personhood, 385
cosmopolitanism, 88, 373–74, 377–78, 388n2. See also multicultural, cosmopolitanism
Country of Origin (Lee) 32n20
Crimean genocide, 250
Crimean Tatars, 250
Critique of Postcolonial Reason (Spivak), 388n1
cuisines: Afghan, 251
Asian/Pacific 187, 189–91, 193, 195, 201
California, 8, 111, 114–15, 241, 275
fiesta, 149
Filipina/o, 149–51, 162–63, 177, 182–84, 298
Filipina/o American, 8, 148, 163, 166–71
fusion, 243
haute-meets-street, 79
Indonesian, 193
national, 36
school lunch, 32
street cuisine, 79
Uzbek, 248–49. See also Thai cuisine
culinary: citizenship, 6, 32, 43–45
pornography, 397
Culinary Arts in the Tropics (Quirino), 153
Culinary Fictions (Mannur), 379, 390n13
“cultural coalescence,” 258, 262, 266. See also Ruiz, Vicki
“cultural food colonialism,” 188–89, 192. See also Heldke, Lisa
cultural imperialism, 199
curry, 4, 41, 112, 190, 192, 203, 224, 306, 376
Dalby, Andrew, 4
Daughters of the American Revolution, 202
Day, Kristin, 81
Daza, Nora V, 183. See also Galing-Galing: The First Philippine Cookbook for Use in the United States
De Laurentiis, Giada, 223
De Veyra, Sofia Reyes, 182. See also Everyday Cookery for the Home
De Witt, John, Jr., 133
Dengel-Janic, Ellen, and Lars Eckstein, 395, 407n10
Detloff, Madelyn, 405
Di Leonardo, Micaela, 266
diaspora, 5, 289, 291, 324, 362–63
Asian American, 305
Central Asian, 253
queer, 394
Uzbek, 247. See also diasporic homecoming; queer, diasporic Vietnamese subjectivity
diasporic homecoming, 289, 291–94, 297–99
through food, 292
Dikon, Roger, 103–4, 106, 110, 120n39
Diner, Hasia, 148–49
disaffection, 403, 405. See also Manalansan, Martin
discourse analysis, 289
domesticity, 403–4
domestic science, 152–54, 156, 177, 179, 265. See also home economics
Donovan, Maria Kozslik, 193–95. See also Far Eastern Epicure, The
donut, history in Los Angeles, 15
donut shops, Cambodian-owned: apprenticeship arrangement, 16
business strategies, 19–22
as community spaces, 22
diversity of customers, 21–24, 28n58, 28n61
emergence, 16
labor source 18–19
preservation and promotion of Cambodian culture, 22–23
relationship with neighborhoods, 21–22
as sites of cultural negotiation, 15
as spaces of Americanization, 23–34
viability as a business enterprise, 16–19
DownWind Productions, 345–46. See also Chan, Gaye; Feeser, Andrea; Sharma, Nandita
Dr. Seuss, 133. See also Geisel, Theodore
Ducray, Amandine, 407n9
Dudden, Arthur Power, 217
Dusselier, Jane, 126
Eat, 344. See also Kaprow, Allan
eating dogs, controversy on, 2
Eating in Public, 345–48. See also Chan, Gaye
Edible Schoolyard Project, 34–35
Eisenhower, Dwight, 217
Elements of Philippine Agriculture (Copeland), 179
Ellman, Mark, 104, 109, 111, 120n39
encloso system, 157
English Standard Schools, 118n7
as de facto segregation, 118n7
Eshu Veve for Olaa Sugar Company, 337–39. See also Lagaso Goldberg, Trisha
ethnic businesses, labor source, 18
ethnic enclaves, 22. See also Chinatown; Little Manila; Little Phnom Penh; Little Tokyo; Manilatown; Valerio Gardens
Ethnic Solidarity for Economic Survival (Min), 278
ethnography, 8, 97n58, 232, 289, 305, 393
Everyday Cookery for the Home (De Veyra), 182
Executive Order 9066, 275. See also incarceration, of Japanese Americans
Exotic Appetites: Ruminations of a Food Adventurer (Heldke), 188–89, 297, 389n8
family, as a rhetorical device, 141. See also nuclear family
Far Eastern Epicure, The (Donovan), 193–94
Farewell to Manzanar (Houston and Houston), 138–41
fast food, “ethnic” American, 4
Feeser, Andrea, 345. See also DownWind Productions; Free Grindz
Ferguson, Amy, 105, 108, 110–11, 120n39. See also Southwestern Cuisine
Fernandez, Doreen, 149–50, 153
Filipina/o: culinary authenticity, 289
cuisine, 149–51, 162–63, 177, 182–84, 298
Filipina/o American(s), 3, 147, 188
cuisine, 148
foodways, 14
gender roles, 166–67
history, 148
restaurants, 162–63
during WWII, 170–71. See also Little Manila
Filipina/o American cuisine, 8, 148, 163, 166–71
women’s contribution in shaping, 166
Filipino Federation of America (FFA), 155–56
Fine, Gary, 34
flexible citizens, 372
Food and Foodways (journal), 3
“food documenting,” 90
Food Matters: A Guide to Conscious Eating (Bittman), 281
food politics, 8, 323, 334, 385
food pornography, 355
food studies: inter- and multidisciplinarity, 3, 5–6
intersection with Asian American studies, 3
intersection with sex and sexuality studies, 394
transnational and diasporic framework, 5
food system: literature on, 5
definition, 274. See also American food system
Asian fusion cuisine, 232, 234, 241–42
financial risks, 234
as a reflection of culture, 80–81
rise to mainstream popularity, 232, 235–36, 242–44
as a signifier of “urban-ness,” 81, 242
use of social media and the Internet, 79–80, 82, 234, 236–38, 242
working conditions, 233–34. See also loncheras; nueva trucks
Asian Americans, 89–90
Foodies: Democracy and Distinction in the Gourmet Foodscape (Johnston and Bau-mann), 297
foodways: definitions, 148, 188, 312
site of identity formation, 187, 204
forager, professional, 278
Foucault, Michel, 1
442nd Regimental Combat Team, 131, 142
Free Grindz, 347
Fruin, W. Mark, 214–16. See also Kikkoman: Company, Clan, and Community
Fujimoto, Bill, 276–78
Fujimoto, Natsuye, 255, 256, 263, 270
Fuller, Alice 179. See also Housekeeping
Fung, Catherine, 365
fusion cuisine, 8, 80, 91, 232, 239, 241, 243, 298, 306, 320n14, 355, 373
Gabaccia, Donna, 258
Gaches, Mrs. Samuel Francis, 183. See also Good Cooking and Health in the Tropics
Galing-Galing: The First Philippine Cookbook for Use in the United States (Daza), 183
Gannon, Beverly, 108, 111, 114, 115, 120n39
gastrocartographic key, 379
gastrocartography, 371, 374–80
Gastronomica (journal), 3
“gastropoetics,” 371, 378, 390n20. See also Black, Shameem
gastro-pornography, 402–3
Geisel, Theodore, 133. See also Dr. Seuss
Gelt, Jessica, 81
Genteel, 325. See also Yamamoto, Lynne
Gentlemen’s Agreement, 256
globalization, 380
Gold, Jonathan, 82
“Golden Age of Food Processing,” 275. See also Levenstein, Harvey
Gompers, Samuel, 63. See also Meat vs. Rice
Good Cooking and Health in the Tropics (Gaches), 183
Google Maps, 82
“Gourmet Ghetto,” 277
Grandfather’s Shed, 325. See also Yamamoto, Lynne
Great Depression, 61, 148, 155, 157–59, 171, 260, 262, 266
Great Māhele, 334
Halberstam, J. Jack, 297. See also Halberstam, Judith
Halberstam, Judith, 408n27. See also Halberstam, J. Jack
Hart-Cellar Act, 274. See also immigration, Reform Act of 1965
Hawai‘i: dependence on imported food, 102
history, 98–100, 217, 335, 343–44
influence of race and class on food practices, 100–101
interracial marriages, 350n3
local diet, 100–102
military presence in, 116, 119n15, 326–27, 331, 333
racialized education system, 99–100, 118n7
racialized politics, 100
racialized sports league, 100
as a transpacific zone of contact, 324
Hawai‘i regional cuisine (HRC), 6, 98, 106–17
contributions, 115–17
critique of racist and colonial food practices, 117
immigrant and indigenous Hawaiian influence on, 112–14
local food campaign, 103–8, 111–13, 115–17
rise to popularity, 109–11
target market, 114–15
Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine, Inc., 111
Hawai‘i Restaurant Association, 111
“Hawaiian epistemology,” 332
health food movement, 8
Heldke, Lisa, 188–89, 297, 389n8. See also “cultural food colonialism”; Exotic
Appetites Hell to Eternity (film), 141
Helping Out: Children’s Labor in Ethnic Businesses (Song), 18
Hemingway, Ernest, 218
Henderson, Janice Wald, 119–20
heteronormative structuration, 403
heteronormativity, 9, 393, 400, 402–03, 406
Hirabayashi, Gordon, 132. See also Hirabayashi v. United States
Hirabayashi v. United States, 132
Hirsch, Dafna, 43–44
Hiura, Arnold, 43
home economics, 39–40, 141, 152, 177, 202, 260
as a career path for women, 39–40
emergence, 39
movement, 39–40. See also domestic science
Homeward Bound (May), 202
homosociality, 393
Hotel Employee and Restaurant Employee Union (HERE), 63–65
Housekeeping: A Textbook for Girls in Public Intermediate Schools of the Philippines (Fuller), 179
Houston, James D., 138. See also Farewell to Manzanar
Houston, Jeanne Wakatsuki, 138–41, 143. See also Farewell to Manzanar
I Have Lived with the American People (Buaken), 162
Ichihashi, Yamato, 214, 218. See also Japanese in the United States
Ignacio, Rosendo, 182. See also Aklat ng pagluluto
imagined communities, 374. See also Anderson, Benedict
immigration: Act of 1924, 188, 256
Act of 1952, 188
discrimination in, 1
Reform Act of 1965, 183. See also Hart-Cellar Act
immigration, of Chinese, 54–59, 66, 324
to Hawai‘i, 334
immigrants in the military, 55, 68–70
internal migration in the U.S., 59
to New York, 55
practice of “interdependence,” 67, 69, 71
transpacific family network 55, 67–71. See also Chinese Exclusion Laws
immigration, of Filipinas/os to the U.S. before 1965: to Alaska, 148, 154, 156
as aliens, 155
as American nationals, 154–55
entrepreneurship, 162–64
experiences during the Depression, 155, 159–60, 171
family separation, 154
immigrant diet, 147–48, 154–55, 157–60
immigrants in cities, 162
immigrants in the U.S. military, 170–71
interracial marriage, 161
life in canneries, 160–62
life in farm labor camps, 156–60, 167–68
old-timers, 147
provincial ethnic identities, 148–49
push factors, 151–54
immigration, of Japanese, 256
to California 218–20, 256, 281–82
to Hawai‘i, 211, 213–17, 220, 325, 340
Imperatives to Reimagine the Planet (Spivak), 380
imperialism, U.S.: 7, 187–89, 191, 195, 196–97, 200–204, 358
in Asia and the Pacific, 187–188
cultural producers as agents, 188
informal empire, 197
tourism as an imperial practice, 198–200
white women’s role in, 177–78, 187–89. See also colonialism, American, in the Philippines
imperialist nostalgia, 192
inauthenticity, 289, 297, 313, 329, 382, 387. See also authenticity
incarceration camps, 7, 125, 143n2
assembly camps, 143n2
Gila River, 131
Heart Mountain, 129
management of, 128–30
as a site of Americanization, 129
incarceration of Japanese Americans, 35, 223, 268–69, 282
camp workers, 131–32
challenge to legality of military orders, 132, 144n20
communal living and dining, 127–36
depictions of incarcerees and their families; 131–34, 136–38
family separation, 125–36, 143, 144n20
food rationing, 128–29
incitement of patriotism, 131–32
juvenile delinquency and discontent, search 133–37
incarceree or internee rights, 130
nisei in military service, 131–33, 142
nuclear family as a unit of management, 130
propaganda of compassionate government, 133
redress and reparation campaign, 138–39, 145n28
resettlement, 130–32, 134, 136, 138, 268–27
sentimental depictions of family separation, 138–41. See also incarceration camps
mess halls, in incarceration camps
Indonesian cuisine, 193
industries, in Los Angeles: aerospace, 15, 26n16
tire, 15
Insect Immigrants, after Zimmerman, 325. See also Yamamoto, Lynne
internment, 143n2. See incarceration, of Japanese Americans
Islamic food laws, 246–47
Italian Americans, 266
It’s a Wonderful Afterlife (film), 407n10
Jaffrey, Madhur, 8, 225, 371–83, 385, 387
as a cosmopolitan Indian, 379
version of cosmopolitanism, 378. See also Madhur Jaffrey’s World Vegetarian
Japan: American military in, 187, 197
economic restructuring after World War II, 187
Japanese American Citizens League (JACL), 129, 134, 138, 219
Japanese American cuisine, 262–63, 266–67
hybridization of, 262–63
Japanese Americans: Americanization, 126, 133, 259–60
Americanness, 256, 258, 260, 270
domestic workers, 259
gender roles and dynamics, 258–60, 264–65, 267, 269
holidays and food, 266–68
nisei youth clubs, 257, 264, 270, 272n55
racial discrimination, 255–57
Japanese in the United States (Ichihashi), 214
Jen, Gish, 305
Johnson Nix, Janeth, 191–92, 196, 203. See also Adventures in Oriental Cooking
Johnston, Josee, and Shyon Baumann, 297. See also Foodies: Democracy and Distinction in the Gourmet Foodscape
Josselin, Jean-Marie, 103, 104, 105, 106, 109, 111, 114, 115, 120n39
Joy Luck Club, The (Tan), 355
Kalākaua (King), 342
kama‘aina, 346
Kamehameha (the Great), 217
Kamehameha III, 334
Kamehameha Schools, 99, 119n12
kanaka maoli, 346
Kane, Mac, 78, 95n37, 97n42. See also loncheras
Kaprow, Allan, 355. See also Eat
Kawamura, A. G., 282
Keller, Thomas, 110
Khush (film), 395
Kikkoman: American competitors of, 224–25
awards, 215
disavowal of ties with Japanese Americans, 222
history in the U.S., 7, 209–12, 214–15, 218–26
as an immigrant, 220
international expansion, 223–24
marketing strategy, 208–9, 213, 222–25
promotion as “natural” and “authentic,” 224–25
white consumer market, 222. See also soy sauce
Kikkoman Chronicles (Yates), 209, 211
Kikkoman: Company, Clan, and Community (Fruin), 214–15
Kikkoman Day, 209
Kikkoman Laboratory of Microbial Fermentation, 209
Kim, Jae, 231, 233–34, 237–40, 243
Kim, Jodi, 188
kimchi, 4, 41, 88, 201, 239, 248
King Kamehameha III, 334
Konishi, Alan, 339–41. See also Yellow Peril (Remember Pearl Harbor?); Yellow Peril (Am I White Yet?)
Korean Americans, 279
Korean greengrocers, 8, 278–79
Kubo, Mat, 341–44. See also Big Five; Off-TheGrid: ActionFunUrbanSurvivalism; Cook for You, Cook for Me
Kukahiko, Puni, 324, 333. See also Lovely Hula Hands; Makau Bound
Kuleana Act, 335
labor: laws on children, 42
movement, 64
labor unions, 63–65
racial exclusion, 63. See also American Federation of Labor (AFL); Hotel Employee and Restaurant Employee Union (HERE)
Ladies’ Home Journal, 182
Lagaso Goldberg, Trisha, 336–38, 348. See also Eshu Veve for Olaa Sugar Company
Biag ti agtrabajo (The Lives of Laborers)
Lahiri, Jhumpa, 305
Lakshmi, Padma, 366
Latin Americans, of Japanese descent, 130
laulau, 113
lechon, 159, 161, 170, 171, 181, 294, 296
Lee, Chang-rae, 305
Lee, Don, 8, 303–4, 307–18, 320n20. See also Wrack and Ruin
Lee, Fred, 280–81
Levenstein, Harvey, 261, 275, 282. See also Paradox of Plenty
Levine, Susan, 33. See also School Lunch Politics
liberal multiculturalists, 189
Lie, John, 28n63
Lili‘uokalani (Queen), 217, 343
Little Manila, 147, 162–63, 166, 168, 288. See also Manilatown
Little Phnom Penh, 22
Little Tokyo, 258
Lived Practice, 36
locavore, 108
loncheras, 78–79, 82, 86–88, 91, 92n6; 92–93n7, 95n37
as “authentic” street cuisine, 79
consumers of, 87
destinations, 87
hybrid type, 79
invisibility of, 91
scholarship on, 97n58
semi-permanent, 78
use of social media, 91. See also food trucks
Los Angeles Riots, 28n63. See also Abelmann, Nancy; Lie, John
Los Angeles Times Cookbook, 183
Lovely Hula Hands, 324. See also Kukahiko, Puni
Lowe, Lisa, 81
Lozada, Eriberto P., Jr, 35
lumpia, 113, 149, 168, 169, 170
Macao, 194–95
macru, in Islamic law, 246
Madhur Jaffrey’s World Vegetarian, 8, 255, 371–88
cosmopolitanism, 373–78
gastro-cartography, 374–78
gastropoetics, 378
purported inclusivity of, 373
representation of Third World women’s labor, 381–83
South Asian origin, 379. See also Jaffrey, Madhur
Maeda, Daryl, 304
Mak, Stephen, 130
Makau Bound, 333. See also Kukahiko, Puni; Tubbs, Maika‘i
Manalansan, Martin, 403. See also disaffection
Manguera, Mark, 79
Manilatown, 162. See also Little
Manila Mannur, Anita, 304, 355–56, 379, 390n13. See also Culinary Fictions
Manzanar Fishing Club, from Barbed Wire to Barbed Hooks, The (film), 146n46
Manzanar riots, 126
Marshall, James, 219
Martinez, Raul, 78
masculinity: Asian, 368
queer, 368
white working-class, 63
Mavrothalassitis, George, 105, 109, 111, 112, 113, 115, 120n39
May, Elaine Tyler, 202. See also Homeward Bound
McDonald’s, 4, 163, 371, 372, 382
McKinley, William, 217
McNamee, Thomas, 276, 278. See also Alice Waters and Chez Panisse
Meat vs. Rice: American Manhood against Asiatic Coolieism (Gompers), 63
Mehta, Deepa, 407n10. See also Cooking with Stella
Melanctha (Stein), 363
“memory-maps,” 337. See also Lagaso Goldberg, Trisha
Merriman, Peter, 103, 105–8, 111, 114, 120n39
mess halls, in incarceration camps, 145n20, 268
as battlegrounds for Americanization, 7, 126
homogenized organization of, 127–29
regulations in, 130
as a site of family breakdown, 126–36, 140
Mexican-American War, 218
Mexican Americans, 149
Michener, James, 197. See also Voice of Asia, The
Migrant’s Table (Ray), 393
migration, chain, 55
Militia, 331, 334. See also Tallett, Keith
Min, Pyong Gap, 278. See also Ethnic Solidarity for Economic Survival
Mintz, Sidney, 4
Mistress of Spices (film), 407n10
mobile catering, 233
Mobile Taro Lo´i, 334–35. See also Tallett, Keith
model minority, 188
myth, 320n17
stereotype, 303
modernization, 188, 196–97, 200
ideology, 196
theory, 206n42
Mogi, Yuzaburo, 208, 213, 220, 224
Mohanraj, Mary Anne, 400, 405–6. See also Bodies in Motion
Monsanto Company, 379, 385–88, 391–392n42
attempt to patent Bt brinjal, 387
franken-crop, 387
Montoya, Carina Monica, 162
motherhood, ideology on, 34
movements: agrarian Protestant, 347
anticolonial, 196
Asian American, 304
California cuisine, 284
civil rights, 304
health food, 8
home economics, 39–40
labor, 64
organic food, 242
regional cuisine, 108
slow food, 242
Southwestern cuisine, 108
multicultural: cosmopolitanism, 3
triumphalism, 81
multiculturalism, 3
discourse on, 405
multinational corporations, 386–87
homogenizing impulse, 386
Mydans, Carl, 132–33
National Food Service Management Institute, 32
National Organic Standards Board, 282
National Organic Sustainable Agriculture Coalition, 282
National Restaurant Association, 64
National School Lunch Program, 33
natural food industry, 280
Nestle, Marion, 274
New Deal, 155
New York City Food Truck Association, 80
New York Restaurant Keepers Association, 64
Newland Resolution, 217
Nina’s Heavenly Delights (film), 8–9, 393, 395–401, 405, 407n10
culinary pornography, 397
heteronormativity, 396–97, 406
queer moments, 396–98. See also Parmar, Pratibha
Nisei Daughter (Sone), 127
No Reservations, 235, 289, 294–95, 297. See also Bourdain, Anthony
No-No Boy (Okada), 144n20
Nowruz, 253. See also Persian New Year
nuclear family: as a battleground for assimilation, 126
images of, 141
as a myth, 143
as a symbol of assimilation, 132
nueva trucks, 79, 81–82, 84–91, 94n30, 95n37, 97n57
deliberate policy of abandonment of, 84, 86
as destinations, 87–88
“geographical parameters” of, 82–85, 87, 96n46
“geographically conservative” types, 84
as symbols of diversity, 81
use of social media, 82, 86, 91. See also food trucks
Obama, Michelle, 34
obesity, childhood, 33
OffTheGrid: ActionFunUrbanSurvivalism, 343. See also Kubo, Mat
Okada, John, 144n20. See also No-No Boy
Omi, Michael, and Howard Winant, 1. See also race, critical studies
Ong, Aihwa, 22, 24, 372. See also flexible citizens
oral history, 32, 126, 134, 135, 192, 256
organic food movement, 242
“Oriental,” 204n1
American women as experts of, 186–87, 200–201
rise to popularity, 200–204
white women’s early interest, 190–95
Russian, 253
Original Thai Cookbook, The (Brennan), 192–93
Pacific Area Travel Association (PATA), 197–99
Pacific Citizen (newspaper), 129, 137
Pacific Interim Travel, 198. See also Pacific Area Travel Association
Padovani, Philippe, 105, 106, 120n39
pan-Turkism, 253–54
Paradox of Plenty (Levenstein), 275
Parmar, Pratibha, 395–98, 406, 407n9
radical politics of, 395–96. See also Sari Red; Khush; Warrior Marks
Pasteleria at reposteria (Trinidad), 182
Peace Corps volunteers (PCVs), 191
Persian New Year, 253. See also Nowruz
Philippine Education Company, 182
Philippine Normal School, 179
Philippines: Acapulco trade, 150
Chinese traders, 149
dialects, 149
diet at the turn of the twentieth century, 149–50
elite food, 149–50
middle class consumption, 180
plebeian food, 150
precolonial diet, 149
as a U.S. colony, 149
PMSS China (ship), 218–20
“Polarities of Food Culture,” 36. See also Lived Practice; Wilks, Richard
Portuguese: immigrants, in Hawai‘i, 328, 336
traders in Japan, 255
Powhatan (ship), 219–20
Prelude to War (film), 133. See also Capra, Frank
Provisions, Post-War, 326. See also Yamamoto, Lynne
psychic citizenship, 341
Public Performance, 36
queer: of color in India and Britain, 395
diaspora, 394
diasporic Vietnamese subjectivity, 393, 395
female subjectivity, 394–95
masculinity, 368
queerness, 8, 398, 400, 402, 406
Quirino, Carlso, 183. See also Good Cooking and Health in the Tropics
quorma, 246
race: critical studies, 1
effects on social discourse, 1
popular understanding, 1–2
privilege, 89
topography of, in Los Angeles, 89
Racial Indigestion: Eating Bodies in the 19th Century (Tompkins), 2
racialization, 1
of Asians in the U.S., 3–4
of Asian Americans, 2–4, 6, 90, 188, 305, 356
through food, 1–2
through the body and sentiments, 3. See also Omi, Michael, and Howard Winant
racial melancholia, 341
Ray, Krishnendu, 393. See also Migrant’s Table
reality television. See also Top Chef
reformers, American, 7, 102, 177–78
refugee (s): policies on, 28n45
Southeast Asian, 3. See also Cambodians in the U.S.; Vietnamese
movement, 108. See also California cuisine; Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine (HRC); Southwestern cuisine
“relational aesthetics,” 344. See also Bourriaud, Nicolas
Relocation Center, 143n2. See also incarceration camps
resilience, concept of, 405
restrictive housing covenants, 255
rice, 30, 32, 36, 43, 60, 72n1, 147, 149, 150–52, 156–62, 164–71, 190, 201, 214, 246, 260, 266, 268, 288, 312, 318, 383; palau, 246
as part of rijsttafel, 193
production in the U.S., 154
representation of universality, 376–78
Rickard, Jolene, 350. See also Corn Blue Room
rijsttafel, 193–94
Robbins, Bruce, on models of cosmopolitanism, 388n2
Rohrback, Judge D. W., 155
Roy, Parama, 384. See also Alimentary Tracks
“rubberneckers,” 60. See also Chinatown, tourism
Ruiz, Vicki, 258. See also “cultural coalescence”
Russian: colonialism, 247
migration, 248, 251. See also Sovietization
Sakada Series, 336, 338. See also Lagaso Goldberg, Trisha
San Buenaventura, Steffi, 148
Sanchez, George, 149
Santa Anita Assembly Center, 128
Sari Red (film), 395
Schein, Louisa, 291
Schnell, John Henry, 218–19
School Food Services, 37–38, 50n4
campaigns on, 34
cuisine, 32
as an icon in Hawai‘i, 42–43
as a locus of assimilation, 32–36, 44
nostalgia of, 32, 34, 37, 44–45
as a site of culinary citizenship, 32, 45
subsidized programs, 34
School Lunch Politics (Levine), 33
Schwarzenegger, Arnold, 282
Service industry, 6, 55, 62, 67
Sex and the City (television show), 2
sexual division of labor, 166, 269–70
Sharma, Nandita, 345–47. See also DownWind Productions; Free Grindz
Shibusawa, Naoko, 188
Shin-Manguera, Caroline, 79
Shiozaki, Cory, 146n46. See also Manzanar Fishing Club
Shiva, Vandana, 386–87
Siamese Cookery (Wilson), 191
Silverstein, Eric, 234, 237, 240, 241
Simple Oriental Cookery (Beilenson), 200–201
Simpson, Caroline Chung, 132–33
sinigang, 159, 160, 162, 163, 171, 185n24
slow food movement, 242
“slummers,” 60. See also Chinatown, tourism
slumming, 189. See also Chinatown, tourism; “slummers”; “rubberneckers”
Smith, Neil, on space, 388n2. See also space
social media. See also food trucks; loncheros; nuevo trucks
Sone, Monica, 127. See also Nisei Daughter
Song, Miri, 18. See also Helping Out
South Asian: cooking, 8, 371–80
diasporic texts, 356
South by Southwest festival, 233, 237–38
Southwestern cuisine, 105, 108
movement, 108. See also Ferguson, Amy
Soviet Union, 196
Soviet-Afghan War, 251
soy sauce, 101, 102, 112, 149, 154, 157, 158
Chun King, 224
hydrolyzed or chemical, 213, 225
La Choy, 224, 225. See also Kikkoman
space, 374
Neil Smith’s formulation of, 388n2
representation of, 374
SPAM: in ethnic dishes, 326
international popularity, 326
link to American military, 326–27
musubi, 4
SPAM/MAPS: Oceana, 327. See also Arcega, Michael
SPAM/MAPS: World, 327–28. See also Arcega, Michael
Spanish-American War, 178, 217
Spivak, Gayatri, 380, 388n1. See also Imperatives to Reimagine the Planet
SS President Coolidge (ship), 58
Sta. Maria, Felice Prudente, 150
Stannard, David, 100–101
statist ideology, 34
Stegner, Wallace, 390n10
Stein, Gertrude, 363. See also Three Lives; Melanctha
Strehl, Gary, 105, 106, 110, 120n39
suburbanization, 187–88
“supermarket culture,” 381
supranational citizenship, 389n8
Surveying the Interior: Literary Cartographers and the Sense of Place (Van Noy), 390n10
Survivors: Cambodian Refugees in the United States (Chan), 22–23
sustainability, in food practices, 8, 343
taco truck(s): Korean, 7
wars, 92–93n7
tacos, 78, 80, 235, 239, 242, 263
banh mih, 234
Korean, 4, 81, 88, 90, 96n51, 232, 233, 238, 241
Taishan County, China, 56
Takei, George, 125. See also To the Stars
Tallett, Keith, 328–31, 334–35. See also Tattoo Williams; Militia; Mobile Taro Lo´i
Tan, Amy, 355. See also Joy Luck Club, The
Tattoo Williams, 329–31. See also Tallett, Keith
Tentative Guide for Health Education in Elementary Schools, A, 178
teriyaki, 30, 41, 88, 112, 142, 208
Thai cuisine, 190–193, 199, 202
early interest in, 190–193
popularization in the U.S., 200–204
Thailand, rise of tourism industry, 198–99
Three Lives (Stein), 363
Tiravanija, Rirkrit, 344
To the Stars (Takei), 125
Tompkins, Kyla Wazana, 2. See also Racial Indigestion: Eating Bodies in the 19th Century
Top Chef (television show), 8, 357, 365–66
Top Chef Cookbook, The, 366
tourism: in Asia Pacific, 197
Chinatown, 60
Hawai‘i, 199
infrastructure development, 197
in Thailand, 198–99
Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT), 198
Tran, Diep, 89
transnational, 5
Trask, Haunani Kay, 118n4, 122n97
Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, 218
Trinidad, Crispulo, 182. See also Pasteleria at reposteria
Truman, Harry S, 196
Truong, Monique, 8, 305, 354–65. See also Book of Salt, The
Tsai, Ming, 110
Tubbs, Maika‘i, 333. See also Makau Bound
Tuffery, Michel, 327
Tule Lake, 134–36
rebels, 134–35
Turkic: food, 245
immigrants, 249–51
languages, 245–49
migration to the U.S., 250–52
organizations, 249–50
Turkish restaurants, 251–52
Turkistan American Association, 250
Twitter, 79, 82, 87, 91, 234, 237–38, 242
Ty, Eleanor, 322n43
Tydings-McDuffie Act, 172n4
Uighur, 248
migration to Uzbekistan, 248
of northwestern China, 254
restaurants, 251–52
United Nation’s Codex Alimentarius Commission, 213
urban utopianism, 81
U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA), 33, 36, 275, 282–83
U.S. Department of Commerce, 198
U.S. Department of State, 196
diaspora, 247
diet, 246–48
immigrants, 249–51
neighborhoods in the U.S., 249–50
new wave of U.S. migration, 251
Uzbekistan, during Sovietization, 247–48, 253
Valerio Gardens, 22
Van Noy, Rick, 390n10. See also Surveying the Interior
Van Sant, John E., 219
Vietnam War, 283
Vietnamese: community in Austin, Texas, 241
diasporic queer subjectivity, 354, 356
queer community, 361
refugees, 13
Voice of Asia, The (Michener), 197
Waikīkī: A History of Forgetting & Remembering, 345
Wakamatsu Tea and Silk Farm Colony, 219–20
Walker, Alice, 395. See also Warrior Marks
War Relocation Authority (WRA), 126–31, 133–34, 138, 143, 143n2
War Relocation Authority Centers, 128
Warhol, Andy, 276
Warrior Marks (Walker), 95
Wartime Civilian Control Agency, 143n2
Waters, Alice, 34–35, 105, 111, 113, 275–78. See also California cuisine; Edible Schoolyard Project
Wei, William, 304
White House Garden, 34
Wilks, Richard, 36. See also “Polarities of Food Culture”
Williams-Forson, Psyche, 2. See also Building Chickens out of Chicken Legs
Wilson, Marie, 191–92, 196. See also Siamese Cookery
Wong, Alan, 103, 106, 109, 110–17, 120n39
Wong, Sau-Ling Cynthia, 305, 355
World War II, 7–8, 15, 35, 68, 126, 132, 170, 326
Worldling, 388n1. See also Critique of Postcolonial Reason; Spivak, Gayatri
Wrack and Ruin (Lee), 8, 303–4, 307–18, 321n25
Asian American identity, 311–13, 317
as an Asian American novel, 309
identity politics, 311
questions of authenticity, 313
subversion of stereotypes, 308–09. See also Lee, Don
Wu, Ellen, 134
Wu, Frank, 304
Yamaguchi, Kristi, 222
Yamaguchi, Roy, 103, 104, 106, 107, 109–11, 113–16, 120n39
Yamamoto, Lynne, 325
Yang, Alice, 309
Yasuda, Glenn, 284
Yates, Ronald E., 209, 211–12, 215, 218–20. See also Kikkoman Chronicles
yellow peril, 126, 131–33, 188. See also Asian American(s)
Yellow Peril (Am I White Yet?), 339, 341. See also Konishi, Alan
Yellow Peril (Remember Pearl Harbor?), 339–41. See also Konishi, Alan
Yellow: Stories (Lee), 307–08
Yoo, David, 257
Yoon, Byeong-Seon, 391n37, 391n38
Yoon, Sang, 89
Young Men’s Christian Association (YMCA), 264
Young Women’s Christian Association (YWCA), 257, 259–60
Zia, Helen, 304
Zoot-suiters, 134