HOW TO MAKE THE PERFECT PIECRUST

A good pie is all about the crust. Sure, lard and shortening produce a tender, flaky crust, but they can’t compete with the flavor of butter. The key to making a perfectly flaky butter crust is to keep all ingredients and working materials cold—the colder the fat when you put the pie into the oven, the greater the chance for flakiness.

⅔ cup warm water

2 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1 pound (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch cubes (bigger pieces will make your dough puffy)

4½ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling

Makes 2 piecrusts

1. In a small bowl of warm water, dissolve the sugar and salt. Place the butter in the bowl of an electric mixer. Measure out the flour into a separate large bowl. Place the bowl of flour, the butter in the electric mixer bowl, and the mixer paddle in the freezer. Place the sugar mixture in the refrigerator. Let everything cool for at least 30 minutes (do not leave the butter in the freezer for more than 30 minutes, as you don’t want it to freeze solid).

2. In the chilled bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, combine the cold butter and flour. With your fingertips (not the palms of your hand, as they are too warm), toss the butter in the flour until each cube is lightly coated. Squeeze the butter between your fingertips to create thin discs. Do not overwork—you want everything to stay cold.

3. Return the bowl to the electric mixture and with the chilled paddle beat the flour-butter mixture on low speed to just break up the butter, about 30 seconds. Add the sugar mixture all at once, and raise the speed to medium-low. Beat just until the dough comes together in big chunks, then immediately turn off the mixer.

4. Divide the chunks of dough in half, and very gently pat each chunk into a round 1-inch-thick disc (this will make it easier to roll out). Wrap each tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm, about 1 hour, before rolling, or place the wrapped dough in a sealed freezer bag and place in the freezer for up to 3 months.

5. When you are ready to use the pie dough, let it thaw for 24 hours in the refrigerator, if frozen. Place the dough on a lightly floured surface. Hit the dough several times with rolling pin to slightly soften. Start rolling out the dough, working from the center out, and stop rolling before you reach the edge (being careful that everything is the same thickness). Roll the dough until you reach ⅛-inch thickness.

6. Lightly grease the pie plate with nonstick spray before putting in the dough (this will make taking the slices out of the pan much easier later). Place the dough in a pie dish, and trim and crimp the edges of the dough. Wrap the pie pan in plastic and place it back in the freezer for another hour (this will help keep your crust from getting soggy from the filling).

Note: If a recipe calls for blind-baking the crust, preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Line the pie dough, already spread in the pie dish, with wax paper and fill the pan with pie weights. Bake the crust for 20 minutes, then remove it from the oven and take out the pie weights and the wax paper liner. Lower the oven temperature to 375 degrees. Return the pie to the oven to bake for an additional 15 minutes until the crust is golden. Remove the piecrust from the oven and let it cool completely before using.

MAKE IT AHEAD: You can refrigerate the dough discs for up to one day or freeze them for up to three months.