There has been a shift in the centre of tourism in recent years, away from the long-established resort areas of Sliema and St Julian’s, to the newer purpose-built resorts of Bugibba and Qawra in the north of the island. Nonetheless, this large holiday conurbation, which runs from Msida, just outside Valletta, to St George’s Bay, retains a great appeal for many visitors and is still the island’s most popular hotspot.
Religious architecture in Sliema.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
The shaping of Sliema
Sliema is not only Malta’s major holiday area, it is also the main residential area. This is where prestigious apartments sell to the upwardly mobile at what, by local standards, are exorbitant prices. It is also where Malta’s wealthy middle classes reside, where children can walk safely to and from friends’ houses in the evenings, and where there are many fashionable boutiques in which to shop. There may be a plethora of hotels, lively bars and crowded restaurants in the vicinity, but the core of the area remains residential.
Small craft in Spinola Bay.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
Sliema was originally planned as a small resort for the residents of Valletta to escape to. With its pleasant coastline indented with small coves and its beaches of smooth white rocks facing the clear blue sea, this was where they would come in summer to relax, swim and take the fresh air. Indeed, there used to be a little fishing community, some smallholdings and a military presence in Fort Tigne, which was built in 1761 by Grand Master Pinto.
Gradually, as the wealth and size of the population within the city of Valletta increased, so Sliema began to take shape. Families moved out of the city to take advantage of what was on offer; villas and refined houses were built, land was developed, and Sliema became an established and desirable place to live.
By the early 20th century, fine domestic architecture in cream limestone gave Sliema a subtle grace and elegance of its own. While Valletta remained the capital and business centre, those families who had not already decamped to the desirable residences of the Three Villages, now moved to new, attractive Sliema. A Sliema address implied a certain social status.
Sliema today
Although much remains the same, there have been significant changes, designed to accommodate the new wealthy Maltese, as well as the tourist or expat. Today’s generations have begun to settle in the villages outside Sliema. Seafront apartment prices in central Sliema are some of the highest on the islands and many of the younger Maltese generation cannot afford the newly built apartments.
But, for every person ready to move out, there are two or more people ready to move in: people for whom the status of being able to say they live in Sliema really counts. This attitude has led to people on the south of the islands referring to people who live in Sliema as tal pepe, “the snobs”.
Sliema is, as locals and returning visitors will confirm, not the place that it once was. In a matter of a few recent years, the wonderful seafront houses that created an elegant vista and made the promenade what it was have gone. In the creation of such an idealised vista, the land on which they stood became increasingly valuable and coveted. In their place now are towering, faceless blocks of flats and large hotels.
Sliema promenade.
iStock
Holiday Sliema
Of course, none of this will be evident to first-time visitors. The main focus of activity in this area is the Strand A [map] (Triq Marina), where a ferry connects to Valletta and boat cruises set off around Grand Harbour, and head further afield to the smaller islands of Comino and Gozo. The front buzzes with cafés serving snacks such as pastizzi or timpana, cream cakes, ice cream, cold drinks and cappuccinos. There are some good restaurants along here, too.
The tip of the Sliema peninsula is known as Tignè, home to the historic Tignè Fort. The area has recently undergone massive transformation into a thriving commercial centre and massive apartment complex. The development was not without controversy, though, as many locals believe it has changed the face of Sliema even more – especially when viewed from Valletta’s bastion walls. Apartments here are some of the most expensive on the island, not least because of their stunning, unobstructed views of the capital.
Tip
Lots of outdoor spaces offer free Wi-fi, including the garden beneath Tower Road.
Sliema viewed from above.
Malta Tourism Authority
Meanwhile, the three-storey shopping mall has decentralised Sliema, taking people away from the traditional shopping streets. The Point (www.thepointmalta.com) has attracted big-name international brands, including various high-street and designer labels, as well as a supermarket. Some Sliema store owners have argued that this is unfair competition, but it has proven quite popular – providing a cool, air-conditioned haven in the summer and a space to get away from the rain in winter. You will also find a variety of food outlets for when you have finished shopping, including familiar international franchises.
On the waterfront is the Fortina hotel (www.hotelfortina.com), which provides a classic view of Valletta, with the Carmelite Church rising like London’s St Paul’s Cathedral at the centre of a truly unforgettable cityscape.
Along Qui-Si-Sana waterfront (its name means the “healthy place”) there are beach concessions with pools, bars and changing facilities.
Qui-Si-Sana Gardens
Sliema has undergone a huge transformation in recent decades, turning it from a simple resort into a sprawling concrete jungle. So, making the whole area more attractive has been something of a priority and the local council has striven to create more outdoor spaces. The results include Qui-Si-Sana Gardens, which boast lush lawns, play areas and lovely fountains.
Along the seafront
Opposite the ferries, a road-bridge connects the Strand to Manoel Island B [map]. The Knights’ quarantine hospital used to be located here and Fort Manoel was built in 1730 to protect the harbour. During World War I, the Knights’ hospital was revived to care for the many wounded soldiers, earning Malta the nickname of “Nurse of the Mediterranean”.
Today, the island, home to the Royal Malta Yacht Club, has a somewhat forlorn air about it, but this is destined to change; like Tignè before it, it is undergoing a transformation into an up-market housing complex and extended yacht marina.
The road continues around Lazzaretto Creek to Ta’ Xbiex (pronounced “tash-b-yesh”), an exclusive residential quarter where many embassies are based, and on to Msida C [map]. This is the biggest marina in Malta, capable of holding over 1,000 vessels at a time. Situated on the quay is the Black Pearl, once a star in the film Popeye now a restaurant (www.blackpearlmalta.com).
Marsamxett Harbour, near Valletta.
Viewing Malta
Along The Front
From the Strand, Triq It-Torri D [map] (Tower Road) cuts a congested swathe through to the other side of the Sliema peninsula. At the top of the hill it meets Bisazza Street. Together, these are Sliema’s two major shopping streets.
As part of Sliema’s transformation, Bisazza Street was pedestrianised a few years ago to encourage people to explore the area by foot, admiring fountains, artwork, plants and energy-efficient lighting. The monument to three of Malta’s best-loved actors – Gemma Portelli, Charles Clews and Victor Apap – who sit on three chairs facing one another, creates a photo opportunity for visitors, encouraging them to sit in the fourth chair while their friends snap away. Sadly, vandals have targeted the monument several times, smashing the head of the late Charles Clews statue and damaging the statue of Victor Apap. In spite of this, the monument has stood its ground, and has become something of a central attraction on this busy street.
Tip
St Julian’s isn’t known for its sandy beaches, but St George’s Bay is a good option if you like the feel of sand between your toes. The facilities are good, though it does get very crowded. Just beyond it is the Bay Street Mall, another shopping centre with lots of great restaurants.
Along The Front – as locals refer to this stretch of Tower Road – there are more hotels, restaurants and (public) rocky beaches, where both Sliema locals and tourists can enjoy a swim. In the evening it becomes a busy promenade. Generations of Maltese have enjoyed the traditional passeggiata here, walking, talking and socialising. This is where friends meet to catch up and where boy meets girl. All along The Front, there are ice-cream sellers, soft-drinks kiosks and market stalls selling jewellery and other trinkets (do bear in mind, though, that these are probably not made in Malta).
Many watersports are on offer in the area.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
Balluta Bay
The road continues along the seafront to Balluta Bay E [map], passing some very well-tended gardens. Pop down to them if you have time; they make for a wonderful space for children to play and live-music events are often held in the summer months.
The coastline here is a stretch of smooth, flat rocks, which make excellent sunbathing platforms. The sea is clear and the shore alive with crabs and other marine life. Children will have great fun with the snorkels. Balluta Bay is also home to one of the island’s best water-polo teams, Neptunes (www.neptuneswpsc.com), whose club and poolside lido are on The Front.
St Julian’s
Balluta Bay runs almost seamlessly into St Julian’s, and at Spinola Bay F [map] (Ix-Xatt Ta’ Spinola) the road reaches its busiest junction. This was once a simple corner where fishermen would land their catches in the evening – some still do – but now it is where most people head for a night out.
This is certainly one of Malta’s most picturesque corners and features a clutch of fine waterside restaurants which enjoy a romantic setting.
Look out for the infamous Love statue, too, which was designed by renowned Maltese architect Richard England. It may spell “love” inside-out (the idea being that the sun’s rays will shine through at certain points of the day, and magically make the word appear on the pavement) but it didn’t exactly make locals fall head over heels when it was first installed. Thankfully it has now grown to become a respected landmark in its own right.
On The Front, the San Giuliano and the Caffè Raffael (www.stjuliansrestaurants.com) occupy the former boathouses of the Spinola Palace. The palace, built in 1688, is still standing, set in lovely grounds on the hill directly above.
Paceville
At this point you are entering the heart of the package-holiday and nightlife part of St Julian’s, with bars and restaurants coming thick and fast. This area comes alive only at night, when the epicentre of the action is the quarter known as Paceville G [map]. During the summer, impatient traffic jams build at 2 or 3am, while a surging mass of bodies packs the streets, overflowing from the high-decibel bars and clubs that are the lifeblood of this tawdry area.
Uncomfortably close to Paceville, but tucked quietly away, are five-star hotels such as the Corinthia St George's Bay (www.corinthia.com) and the Westin Dragonara (www.westinmalta.com), with their beach clubs (open to day visitors) and the Dragonara casino (www.dragonaracasino.com). Within walking distance is the Portomaso complex, with its high-rise tower, 10 restaurants, yacht marina and Hilton hotel (www3.hilton.com).
Portomaso has also become a local hotspot and residents flock here to enjoy the good-quality food, lovely setting and tranquil haven away from Paceville’s busiest streets. The project won the Best Marina Development Category of the 2005 International Property Awards, which thrust it into the spotlight and helped to sell many of the 420 upmarket apartments.
Diamonds In The Rough
There isn’t much of architectural importance in the Sliema/St Julian’s area, but there are some gems to look out for. For instance, the Balluta Buildings, just up from Balluta Bay, are a gorgeous example of the Art Nouveau style. The block may look a little run down, but it is reminiscent of some local architects’ brief infatuation with that architectural era, and it lives on in their memory. Meanwhile, if the high-rises are stifling you, take a wander through Sliema’s backstreets, where you will get a far more authentic feel for the town. Here, typical town houses still stand proudly, a local variant of Georgian-style architecture. Keep your eyes peeled for their traditional wooden balconies, which are often painted in beautiful, bright colours.
Restaurants on the seafront at Balluta Bay.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
Next door, the Portomaso Business Tower has also attracted a lot of attention – especially as, at 23 storeys high, it was the very first skyscraper to appear on the island’s skyline. Now, though, it is home to many top local and international firms, as well as a luxurious casino and ultra-chic bar on the top floor.
