Celery or Celeriac Soup Two Ways

Here are two simple and lovely soups. First, you make the basic soup with either celery or celeriac. And then you finish it in one of two ways. The Gorgonzola and lemon soup has a distinctive, delicate flavor and an elegant fragrance. The rosemary and cheddar version tastes heartier, but is an uncomplicated and comforting treat for anyone who loves potatoes and cheese.

Celeriac, also called celery root, is a gnarly, hairy, bulbous root that looks like it might be cultivated by Professor Sprout as a remedy for Hogwarts mischief. But once peeled and trimmed, it has a subtle flavor and perfume similar to celery, but also unique.

Different cheeses vary in saltiness, so taste the soup and adjust for salt at the end. If you purée in a blender, these soups will be velvety-smooth. If you use an immersion blender, the texture will be smooth with little bits to chew on.

Yields 8 cups

Serves 4 to 8

Time: 55 minutes

2 cups chopped onions

4 cups thinly sliced celery or peeled, diced celeriac (1½ pounds whole)

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon olive oil

4 cups water

3 cups peeled cubed white or yellow potatoes

ROSEMARY AND CHEDDAR

1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary leaves

4 ounces cream cheese

6 ounces extra-sharp cheddar cheese, shredded (about 1½ cups)

Freshly ground black pepper

GORGONZOLA AND LEMON

4 ounces cream cheese

6 ounces Gorgonzola or blue cheese, crumbled

Finely grated zest of 1 lemon (about 1 teaspoon)

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice (add more to taste to the finished soup)

Freshly ground black pepper

In a covered soup pot on medium heat, cook the onions, celery or celeriac, and salt in the olive oil for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. If you’re making the rosemary-cheddar variation, add the rosemary for the last 5 minutes. You want the onions to stay pale. Golden is good, but if the onions begin to brown, reduce the heat. When the onions have softened, add the water and potatoes, cover, and bring to a simmer. Cook for about 20 minutes, or until the potatoes and celery or celeriac are tender.

When the vegetables in the soup pot are tender, purée the soup until smooth. For a silky smooth soup, purée in batches in a regular blender; for a smooth-with-little-bits-of-vegetables soup, purée with an immersion blender. Add the ingredients of the version you’re making, and purée until smooth. Reheat until hot, but not boiling, stirring frequently. Season with black pepper and more salt to taste, and more lemon juice if you’d like the lemon version to be more lemony.

SERVING AND MENU IDEAS

Serve with a light salad such as Belgian Endive Citrus Salad with Gremolata, or Microgreens Salad with Sweet Carrot Dressing.