A deeply flavored, rich, and woodsy stew is an ideal solace on a chilly evening, especially when served over soft and comforting polenta. This polenta is especially sunny with the addition of puréed winter squash, which gives it a subtle vegetable sweetness that works really well with the cheese, and also gives it a smooth, creamy texture.
When you make this stew with portobellos, it looks its best immediately after cooking, while it is still colorful. If you make it ahead and it sits, it will turn a bit dark and gothic … and there’s nothing wrong with that.
Serves 4
Time: 45 minutes
1 cup cornmeal*
1 teaspoon salt
2½ cups cold water
1½ cups puréed cooked winter squash (a 12-ounce package of frozen is fine)
½ cup grated Pecorino Romano or Parmesan cheese
2 cups diced onions
1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and diced (about 1¼ cups)
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1½ pounds mushrooms** (8 to 10 cups chopped)
1 teaspoon dried thyme
½ cup red wine or marsala
1 tablespoon soy sauce
2 cups baby kale
Salt and cracked black pepper
*You can use coarse or fine cornmeal for polenta, but the cooking time varies significantly depending on the grind (15 to 35 minutes).
**Choose a variety of mushrooms. Start with about ½ pound of portobellos for meatiness and bulk, and then choose a pound of mushrooms such as shiitake, morels, oyster mushrooms, or golden trumpets, or wild or exotic varieties. Or just use the more economical cremini or white button mushrooms, which also work fine in this stew.
Make the polenta: In a heavy-bottomed 2-quart saucepan, stir together the cornmeal, salt, and cold water. Bring to a boil on high heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. Reduce the heat to a simmer. If the polenta starts spitting, lower the heat or loosely cover the pan. Stir the polenta every few minutes to prevent sticking, and cook until it is soft and thick, pulls away from the sides of the pot when stirred, and tastes done. Depending on the grind and kind of your cornmeal, you might need to add a little more water, and the simmering time can range between 15 and 30 minutes. Add the puréed squash and stir to incorporate. Turn off the heat and stir in the cheese.
Make the stew: In a stew pot on medium heat, warm the oil and cook the onions and bell peppers for about 5 minutes. Gently wipe off any grit clinging to the mushrooms with a soft brush or a damp towel; avoid immersing or rinsing them in water. Chop portobellos into 1-inch pieces. Cut other mushrooms lengthwise into halves or quarters. Separate oyster mushrooms or other mushrooms that grow in clumps into smaller bunches. Add the tougher mushrooms, like portobellos, porcini, cremini, or shiitake to the onions and peppers in the stew pot and stir to coat with oil. After 4 to 5 minutes, add the more tender mushrooms and the thyme and cook for another 4 to 5 minutes. Add the red wine and soy sauce, stir in the baby kale, and cook for a couple of minutes more, until the kale has wilted. Season with salt and cracked black pepper to taste.
To serve, spoon polenta into individual wide, shallow bowls and top with stew.
Serve with Jason’s Fresh Fennel and Apple Slaw or a crisp lettuce salad with Shallot Vinaigrette or Sweet Carrot Dressing.