Preserved lemons, a common ingredient in North African dishes, make their salty, tangy, citrusy presence into many cuisines around the globe. Kip Wilcox first tasted this delicious condiment in a mouthwatering tagine served at Flor da Laranja, a small Moroccan bistro in Lisbon, where the lively and intrepid restaurateur, Rabea Esserghini, gave her a tour of her tiny kitchen. There, perched above the counter, was Rabea’s jar of homemade preserved lemons, which she added liberally to many of her signature dishes.
Preserved lemons can be found in the international section of well-stocked supermarkets and specialty stores, and they are quite pricey. However, they can be easily prepared at home, cured for 4 to 6 weeks, and kept in the refrigerator for 6 months or longer.
Use organic lemons with thin rinds for quicker curing.
Yields 1 quart
Prep time: 20 minutes
Special equipment: quart canning jar
2 teaspoons coriander seeds
2 teaspoons cumin seeds
2 teaspoons fennel seeds
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
4 to 6 organic lemons*
¼ cup kosher salt
3 bay leaves
1 to 2 cups fresh lemon juice (from 6 to 8 lemons)
*Thin-skinned lemons work best. According to the size, use the number needed to fill the canning jar.
Wash a quart canning jar and lid in very hot soapy water, rinse with boiling water, and set aside to drain.
In a small heavy skillet on medium heat, toast the coriander, cumin, fennel, and peppercorns for about a minute. While the spices cool, quarter the lemons, leaving the stems intact. Briefly grind the cooled spices in a spice grinder, just to crush (not to a powder) and then mix with the salt. Cover the lemons with the spice-salt mixture and press them into the jar so that some of the juice emerges. Slide the bay leaves into the jar alongside the lemons.
Pour lemon juice over the salted lemons until they are covered. The amount will vary according to the size and juiciness of the lemons. Cap and store in a dark, cool place.
Shake the jar several times a week for 4 to 6 weeks. The salt will extract juice from the lemons and soften the rinds. After 4 weeks, taste a snippet of lemon. Cured lemons should be soft and pliable throughout the rind: “cured.”
Refrigerate the preserved lemons and use within 6 months.
To use, remove the fruit from the rind and add chopped preserved lemon rind to spreads and dips ranging from hummus to simple cheese spreads. Add to grain dishes like tabouli or pilafs, as well as soups, stews, and sauces. In dishes that are cooked, Spiced Preserved Lemons have more “punch” when added just a few minutes before finishing, but will still add flavor if simmered for a while.