If you think of a meal in musical terms, starters would be the overture, a prelude to the evening’s style and ambiance. Starters can be exceptional, expensive, and exotic, passed around on silver trays, or can be as casual as a variety of dips arranged on a buffet or coffee table with bowls of crostini, raw vegetables, or toasted pita chips, to satisfy a variety of tastes. Starters sharpen the appetite for what lies ahead; therefore, it is important to plan the beginning of your gathering, plain or fancy, so as not to risk offering anything too filling, too rich, too much, too messy, or even too little. Balance is the key word here. What you’re working toward is to serve a main course without taxing anyone’s digestion or clouding the palate.
Presentation is another consideration since it helps to set the nature and spirit of the occasion. Almost all my outdoor meals are easy-going, relaxed, informal—so for those get-togethers, I browse through an enormous cache of wooden bowls and trays that Detlef and I have collected from various trips we’ve taken over the years. A particular favorite of mine happens to be a long grainy wooden board that shines up beautifully and looks marvelously inviting when it’s blanketed with bite-size morsels grouped around an array of delicious dips and pâtés.
For more formal outdoor dinners, I reach onto a long shelf that lines our kitchen wall, close to the beamed ceiling, and carefully take down some very special pieces that belonged to my mother; gorgeous porcelain platters, china sauce boats, and pitchers. It was her love of cooking and gift for baking and entertaining that inspired me in the first place, so it has always seemed appropriate to have her represented at our candlelit table encircled by friends, strains of music in the background, great food, conversation, and laughter—in other words—everything wonderful!
This is a refreshing accent to grilled pork or chicken and a great dip with tortilla chips.
1 avocado, peeled, pitted, and cut into 1/2-inch chunks
1 teaspoon fresh lime juice
3 tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and coarsely chopped
1/3 cup diced red onion
1 clove garlic, minced
1 small jalapeño pepper, seeded and minced
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 tablespoons olive oil
11/2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro
Place all the ingredients in a medium bowl. Toss gently until well combined. Serve immediately.
This salsa can be made a few hours ahead of time except for the avocados, which brown when left in the salsa. Add them when ready to serve.
Yields about 3 cups
Every time we make this dip it is consumed with amazing speed and gusto! At Loaves and Fishes we steam the clams in a little white wine and as soon as they open, we drain them, saving some liquid to use in the dip.
6 slices bacon
8 ounces cream cheese, softened
1/4 cup mayonnaise
1/4 cup sour cream
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
12 ounces chopped cooked clams, drained
2 tablespoons clam juice
1 tablespoon minced curly parsley
1/2 cup chopped fresh chives, plus 1 tablespoon for garnish
Cook the bacon in a preheated 375°F oven for 30 minutes until crisp, or in a skillet on the stovetop. Let the bacon drain on paper towels until cool. Crumble and set it aside.
In a food processor or blender purée the cream cheese, mayonnaise, sour cream, cayenne, and salt for 30 seconds. Scrape the mixture into a bowl. Add the clams, clam juice, parsley, chives, and bacon pieces. Stir to blend well.
Serve the dip, garnished with the extra chives and thin slices of crusty French bread.
Yields about 21/2 cups
To save time, buy chopped clams from your seafood store or specialty food shop; they will work just fine.
This dip can be made a day ahead, covered, refrigerated, and brought to room temperature before serving.
We center this rustic dip on a tray heaped with raw vegetables such as jicama, carrots, fennel, and peppers, cut into sturdy sticks. Or try this on toast or grilled bread.
6 small plum tomatoes, quartered
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, split lengthwise
6 ounces cream cheese
1/4 cup sour cream
11/4 teaspoons kosher salt
11/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons chopped fresh chives, for garnish
Preheat the oven to 425°F.
Place the tomatoes, olive oil, and garlic in a small roasting pan. Toss to coat and roast for 25 minutes. Cool.
Transfer to a food processor and pulse 5 or 6 times. Add the cream cheese, sour cream, salt, and pepper and process until smooth. Garnish with chives before serving.
Yields 21/2 cups
If you make this ahead of time, let it stand at room temperature for 1 hour before serving.
This dip can be made up to 2 days before, covered, and refrigerated, and again, brought to room temperature before serving.
This is a nice addition to any cocktail party, any season of the year. Mound the tartare in the center of a platter lined with mesclun greens and garnished with lime wedges and sprigs of dill. It is a beautiful presentation. On the side serve slices of whole-grain bread spread with honey mustard and let your guests help themselves.
11/2 pounds fresh salmon fillet, skin and bones removed
1/2 cup finely chopped red onion
1 clove garlic, minced
11/2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup capers, drained and coarsely chopped
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh dill
1/2 cup honey mustard
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
8 slices whole-grain bread
Chop the salmon into 1/4-inch chunks. Place the salmon pieces in a bowl with the onion, garlic, salt, pepper, capers, lime juice, olive oil, and dill and toss to combine it thoroughly. Cover and chill the tartare for at least 20 minutes or up to 24 hours.
For the honey mustard spread, combine the mustard, mayonnaise, salt, and pepper in a mixing bowl and stir well.
When ready to serve, spread 1 tablespoon of honey mustard spread onto each slice of bread. Divide the Salmon Tartare evenly among the slices, then cut each slice into bite-size pieces.
Serve immediately.
Yields 32 to 48 bite-size pieces
The Honey Mustard Spread can be made 2 days beforehand, covered, and refrigerated until you’re ready.
I don’t remember every meal I’ve ever eaten, but the pleasure of savoring my first frittata is still clear in my mind. It was in Siena, Italy, a long time ago: a soft, comforting egg dish with fresh basil and Romano cheese. You can substitute any cheese or herb you like. It takes only minutes to prepare and is a versatile dish—you can serve it hot for brunch, or when cut into small pieces and offered at room temperature, it becomes a delicious starter with drinks.
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1/2 cup dry bread crumbs
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cups chopped onions
9 large eggs
1 cup heavy cream
3/4 cup half-and-half
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 cup (7 ounces) crumbled feta cheese
1 cup finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Brush a 13 × 9-inch baking pan with the melted butter. Sprinkle the bread crumbs evenly over the bottom of the pan.
Sauté the olive oil and onions in a skillet, over medium heat, for about 10 minutes. Do not let it brown.
In a bowl, whisk together the eggs, cream, half-and-half, salt, and cayenne. Fold in the feta cheese, mint, and sautéed onions. Pour the mixture into the prepared pan. Sprinkle the Parmesan cheese over the top.
Bake 30 to 35 minutes, or until just set. Let cool slightly before cutting.
Yields 6 main-course servings, or 36 bite-size pieces, as a starter
This spicy combination works equally well as an hors d’oeuvre or as a first course.
2 teaspoons fresh lime juice
1 clove garlic, minced
1/4 cup fresh cilantro leaves
2 ripe avocados, peeled and pitted
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 jalapeño pepper, seeded and minced
1/2 cup chopped onion
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 bunch cilantro, for garnish
One 7-ounce bag tortilla chips
11/2 pounds cooked shrimp (about 30 shrimp)
Combine the lime juice, garlic, cilantro, avocado, salt, jalapeño, and onion in a food processor and process until completely smooth.
Whip the cream until soft peaks hold. Fold the avocado purée into the cream.
To serve as an hors d’oeuvre, line a serving plate with cilantro. Heap each chip with a teaspoon of mousse, then top each with a shrimp and place on the serving plate.
To serve as a first course, line 6 plates with cilantro leaves. Divide the chips, mousse, and shrimp among the plates and serve.
Yields 6 first-course servings, 12 hors d’oeuvres
This smooth green purée made with soy beans (also called edamame) is great with toasted pita bread or cut-up fresh vegetables: a perfect snack to take to the beach since it tastes best when warmed by the sun.
2 pounds fresh soy beans in pods (2 cups, shelled) or 2 cups frozen beans
1 clove garlic, minced
11/2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro or mint
Place the soy beans in a pot, cover with water, and cook for 12 minutes or until tender. Drain the beans.
Transfer the beans to a food processor. Add the garlic, salt, pepper, and lemon juice and purée for 30 seconds. With the motor running, slowly pour the olive oil through the feed tube in a thin stream. If the mixture seems too thick, add 1 tablespoon water. Add the cilantro and pulse 3 times. Serve at room temperature.
Yields 21/2 cups
If covered and refrigerated, the hummus will last up to 3 days.
Hot-smoked salmon is much like cooked salmon except for its subtle smoky taste. You may find it at most seafood markets where it’s sold in serving-size pieces with the bones removed and the skin left on.
1 pound hot-smoked salmon
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1/2 clove garlic, minced
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 slices sourdough country-style bread
8 ounces cream cheese, softened
1/3 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon grated fresh horseradish or 2 teaspoons prepared horseradish
3 tablespoons thinly sliced fresh chives
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Remove the skin and dark flesh from the salmon. Cut or flake the fish into 24 pieces. Sprinkle with the vinegar and set it aside.
Mix the garlic, oil, salt, and pepper together and brush over the bread slices. Toast the bread in the hot oven until crisp.
Whip the cream cheese, heavy cream, and horseradish with an electric mixer until the texture is thick. Add 2 tablespoons of the chives and mix only to blend.
Spread the cream cheese mixture evenly over the toasted bread. Cut each slice into 6 pieces. Mound salmon onto each piece and sprinkle with the remaining chives.
Yields 24 bite-size pieces, 6 to 8 servings
Eggs are the ultimate comfort food and appeal to me in all forms: boiled, fried, scrambled, as omelets, frittatas, or as the chief ingredient in the old reliable quiche. These stuffed eggs, in particular, are a real favorite with my family and my wonderful customers at Loaves and Fishes.
12 eggs
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper
1/2 teaspoon minced garlic
1/4 cup minced shallots
2 tablespoons minced curly parsley, plus extra for garnish
1/8 teaspoon hot pepper sauce
Place the eggs in a saucepan, cover with cold water, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 8 minutes.
Drain and cool the eggs under cold running water. Peel the eggs and cut each in half through its equator. Place the yolks in a food processor. Cut a thin slice off the bottom of each egg white so it is able to stand upright and place the whites on a platter.
Add the mayonnaise, mustard, salt, and pepper to the yolks and purée until just smooth.
Combine the garlic, shallots, parsley, and hot pepper sauce in a small bowl. Divide the garlic-shallot mixture equally among the wells of each egg white.
Pipe or spoon the puréed yolk on top of the mixture, mounding each one a little. Garnish with a sprinkling of minced parsley.
Yields 24 stuffed egg halves
Try replacing the garlic-shallot filling with cold foie gras or chicken liver pâté.
Or fold into the yolk mixture:
• minced anchovies
• minced ham
• minced cornichons for a bit of zip
• 1/4 cup salmon roe
Use your taste and imagination to vary this humble stuffed egg.
A delightfully savory spread to go with drinks. Serve with whole-grain bread cut into bite-size pieces, cucumber slices, or thinly sliced French bread, and let everyone help themselves.
1 cup dry white wine
11/2 cups water
2 sprigs of fresh thyme
1 bay leaf
6 black peppercorns, crushed
8 ounces fresh salmon fillet
8 ounces smoked salmon, diced
4 tablespoons (2 ounces) unsalted butter, softened
Grated zest of 1 lime
11/2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
11/2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1/2 cup minced shallots
2 teaspoons capers, drained
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh dill
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon good brandy
Combine the wine, water, thyme, bay leaf, and peppercorns in a shallow saucepan and bring to a boil. Add the fresh salmon and simmer, covered, for 8 to 10 minutes until the fish is cooked. Drain the salmon and transfer it to a bowl. Set it aside until the fish has reached room temperature.
Flake the cooked salmon with a fork. Add the smoked salmon, butter, lime zest and juice, mustard, shallots, capers, dill, salt, pepper, cayenne, and brandy and stir together, blending well. Taste for seasoning.
Chill the spread 5 hours or overnight, remembering that it tastes best served at room temperature.
Yields 4 to 6 servings
This can be made a day ahead, covered, chilled and, for the best results, returned to room temperature before serving.
I have served this easy-to-make elegant dish as a first course, a light lunch, and as part of a festive breakfast. Make sure you buy the freshest, largest salmon eggs from your fish market or specialty food store.
3/4 cup coarse cornmeal
3/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
3/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
Kernels cut from 2 small ears of corn, about 3/4 cup
2 large eggs
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons buttermilk
1/2 cup chopped fresh chives
1/4 cup peanut oil
1/4 cup clarified butter
3/4 cup sour cream
3/4 cup mayonnaise
1 teaspoon hot pepper sauce
1/3 cup chopped fresh chives
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh dill
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
7 ounces salmon roe
Fresh dill sprigs, for garnish
Combine the cornmeal, flour, baking powder, salt, pepper flakes, and corn in a large bowl. Stir in the eggs, buttermilk, and chives. Set aside for 15 minutes to allow the ingredients to blend.
Combine 1 tablespoon each of the peanut oil and butter in a large heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Tilt the pan to make sure the bottom is coated evenly. When the oil is hot, drop in the corn mixture by tablespoons, 2 inches apart. Fry the fritters 3 to 4 minutes per side, until they turn dark golden brown. Transfer the first batch to a platter and repeat this process until all the batter has been used, adding more peanut oil and butter to the skillet as needed.
To make the salmon caviar dip, combine the sour cream, mayonnaise, hot sauce, chives, dill, salt, and salmon roe in a bowl and stir gently to blend.
Serve the fritters warm with a heaping bowl of salmon caviar dip nearby. Garnish with fresh dill sprigs.
Yields 32 fritters, and 21/4 cups dip, 6 to 8 servings
The Salmon Caviar Dip is a very popular Loaves and Fishes standard that, as a starter, goes well with fresh-cut vegetables.
You can adjust the amount of red pepper flakes, less spicy or even more so for those robust types.
This old-fashioned silky smooth pâté can be offered with buttered toast, crunchy French bread, or apple or pear slices. I usually set it on our picnic table and let our guests help themselves while we tend to the grill. Customers often ask how I get the mousse so smooth. The answer is b-u-t-t-e-r!
1 cup chopped onion
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound chicken livers, trimmed
3 tablespoons Cognac
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
24 tablespoons (12 ounces) unsalted butter, softened
Over medium heat, sauté the onions in the olive oil in a heavy skillet for about 5 minutes until the onions turn glossy. Add the chicken livers and sauté for another 10 minutes, until just cooked. Cool to room temperature.
Transfer the mixture to a food processor, add the Cognac, mustard, salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and process until smooth. Add the butter, 6 tablespoons (3 ounces) at a time, processing each time until the butter is absorbed.
Scrape the mousse into a pretty serving bowl and chill for 2 hours or more before serving.
Yields 6 to 10 servings, depending on appetites
You can make this ahead of time. Covered and refrigerated, the mousse can keep for up to 1 week.