When marketing for chops or steaks to grill, ask for cuts no less than 11/2 inches thick. I found that when meats are only an inch thick, they cook too quickly and do not have enough time to develop those characteristic grid marks that are traditionally associated with grilled foods. Everyone expects to see those grid marks, and that additional half-inch makes a big difference. Also, please use tongs to turn meat. Forks are great but when they pierce the meat it allows those delicious juices to run out—juices that are essential to keeping the meat moist and tender.
As you have probably guessed by now, summer is my favorite season. It is when Loaves and Fishes is in high gear, positively bustling with activity, when our substantial daily output borders on “the impossible made to look simple.” The number of recipes I have managed to accumulate over the years is mind-boggling. A major reason, besides its being the nature of my work, is that our Loaves and Fishes menu changes each and every week. Many of the newer recipes I credit to my most recent acquisition—a wonderful, multitasking, easy to maintain, cook-friendly outdoor grill.
Having been born on a working farm in Northern Germany, with many farmhands and a rather large family to feed, I can only imagine now how much my dear mother, would have adored an outdoor grill. Oh my, when I think of how her life would have changed. As it happened, every summer we would move our large kitchen table into the garden, cover it with an oilcloth, our feet shaping a well-worn path as we raced back and forth from kitchen to garden, carting large platters of Mother’s hot dishes, her homemade sausages and breads, fresh salads made from vegetables picked that morning, desserts—oh, the desserts and wheels of homemade aged cheese. The heat generated in the kitchen from my mother’s daily output became really intense at times and so all of us would more than welcome every chance to enjoy the cooling relief provided by the occasional ocean or bay breeze that would drift our way. In the evening, especially when we had guests, the oilcloth was replaced by a starched linen tablecloth and napkins and our dinners would immediately take on a more elegant tone. Faces were illuminated by candlelight, music from my mother’s tiny radio spilled outside from the kitchen and mingled with the hum of conversation—everyone contented, appreciative, chatting, laughing. There was an owl that always joined in, hooting from its roost inside one of the barns.
It was only about two, or maybe three years ago, when our daughter Sybille generously gifted us with a gorgeous outdoor grill. She and her husband own and operate a fabulous store in Bridgehampton where they sell top-quality cooking equipment and kitchen essentials. She knew exactly what would suit me best and, suddenly, there it was, waiting when I returned home from the store one evening. Honestly, I behaved like a child with a new toy. It wasn’t as if I hadn’t used one before, but those were catering grills, large and impersonal, necessary for cooking on a grand scale for parties of 100 or more. This grill was just the right size, and fit onto our patio perfectly. I became obsessed with this shiny new addition to our family and started to experiment and, ultimately, began to appreciate the finer points of grilling at home. Having a lid meant that I could roast whole chickens just as with my indoor oven. Grilling for a smaller crowd was a pure delight. The grill was placed near enough to the picnic table so I would be accessible, and most important—part of the dinner party. Slicing, dicing, shucking, many times I had my friends’ elbows edging closer, lending a hand; not that I needed help, but it was the company that the grill invited. Friends asked me to explain why one cut of meat was better than such and such, how long did I cook this or that, what is that condiment, what is in that sauce?
During the second season of enjoying our wonderful grill, I thought how wonderful it would be to grill some duck breasts for our company that evening. The guests arrived, the grill was heated, the duck breasts were plump, fatty, and seasoned. On the grill they went and within seconds, the duck fat ignited and we experienced a flare-up so enormous that Detlef had to summon the local fire department. Luckily they didn’t have to turn on the hoses, since the fire had died down by the time they arrived. I was embarrassed, yes, but more concerned that our wonderful grill wasn’t damaged.
When we opened the lid, there they were, eight pathetic charred and shriveled duck breasts. I put them aside, thinking they were unsalvageable, but Sybille, curious, cut into one; the meat under the charred crust looked absolutely fine. She scraped off some of the blackened skin, put a bite into her mouth and her eyes immediately widened in surprise. “This is absolutely . . . delicious!” she said. No, we didn’t eat them, but the whole experience turned out to be an eye-opening lesson.
The next day I did a thorough check-through of my grilling paraphernalia. I’m suggesting you do the same. Search through your utensils and tools, update old ones, throw away any that almost work but really don’t. The fork with the loose handle you think might last one more season? Throw it away. Proper “to-the-elbow” gloves, those handy long-handled basting brushes, a thermometer for the grill and an instant-read for the meats; tongs, and, oh, yes, drip pans to avoid flare-ups. The cumulative lessons I have learned were gradual and gained through experience. Now it’s clear sailing.
There is nothing better than a well-cooked and beautifully presented grilled chicken, served with chutney, grilled corn, and perhaps a fresh spinach salad. It is my idea of an idyllic Sunday dinner. I suggest you make the Plum Chutney first since it takes longer to cook and needs time to cool to room temperature.
11/2 pounds fresh prune plums, pitted and sliced thin
1/2 cup peeled and minced fresh ginger
1/2 cup finely chopped onion
1/4 cup pitted prunes, chopped fine
2 cups apple cider vinegar
12/3 packed cups light brown sugar
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
11/2 teaspoons kosher salt
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup finely chopped onion
1 lemon, all pits removed but rind left on, finely chopped
1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon leaves
Two 3-pound chickens, rinsed and patted dry
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
3 tablespoons olive oil
Juice of 1 lemon (about 21/2 tablespoons)
To make the chutney, combine all the ingredients in a large heavy saucepan and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and stirring often, continue to cook the chutney, uncovered, for 1 to 11/2 hours, until it begins to thicken. Take care not to let it boil or burn. When thickened, spoon the chutney into a bowl or glass jars and allow it to cool to room temperature.
Preheat the grill to 400°F. Make sure your oven thermometer is inside the grill. For ideal results it is essential to maintain a constant temperature throughout the grilling time.
Mix together the garlic, onion, lemon, and tarragon in a small bowl. Split the mixture, stuff half of it into the cavity of each chicken. Tie the legs together with kitchen string to keep stuffing inside the bird.
To make the rub, whisk together the salt, cayenne, oil, and lemon juice in a small bowl and rub this mixture over the chickens, making sure to coat all sides well. Place the chickens, side by side, breast side down, in a grill pan.
Grill the chickens with the lid closed, at 400°F for 40 minutes. After the first 10 minutes, check the temperature. The roasting temperature must remain at 400°F throughout the entire roasting time. After 40 minutes, turn the chickens on their backs and grill 40 minutes longer. Test for doneness by inserting an instant-read thermometer into the thigh, not touching the bone. It should read 165°F. Transfer chickens to a platter and cut into serving-size pieces. Serve the plum chutney on the side.
Yields 4 to 6 servings
You can substitute fresh peaches or apricots for the plums. They make really nice chutneys, each with a distinct flavor. Covered and stored in the refrigerator, they will last up to 4 weeks and are tasty sides to serve with any poultry or pork dish. Also, they are delicious on sandwiches of ham, turkey, or chicken.
The Plum Chutney could be made the day before and chilled until ready to serve.
The Tarragon-Mustard Butter should be made the day before, wrapped and refrigerated, giving the flavors time to blend. Grilled summer squash and grilled bread will round out this meal beautifully.
16 tablespoons (8 ounces) unsalted butter, softened
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon hot pepper sauce
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
11/2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh tarragon
4 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves, about 2 pounds
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons dry white wine
1/4 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons honey
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon kosher salt
Fresh tarragon sprigs, for garnish
To make the tarragon-mustard butter, combine the butter, lemon juice, mustard, hot sauce, salt, and tarragon in a small bowl and stir until smooth.
Place a piece of plastic wrap on your work surface. Scrape the butter onto it and roll to shape into a short roll. Twist each end of plastic wrap to seal it. Refrigerate overnight, if possible.
Butterfly the chicken breasts by slitting each horizontally down the center, but not all the way through, so that each piece opens like a book. Place the chicken pieces in a shallow casserole. In a bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, wine, olive oil, honey, pepper flakes, and salt. Pour it over the chicken. Turn and rub the mixture into the chicken to coat. Let it stand at room temperature for 20 minutes. Meanwhile preheat the grill to very hot.
Lay the chicken on the hot grill. Cook covered for 5 minutes. Turn, cover and cook 4 to 5 minutes longer, or until just cooked through.
To serve, place the hot grilled chicken on a platter. Cut tarragon-mustard butter into 1/3-inch slices and lay these over the chicken, allowing the butter to melt into a flavorful sauce.
Yields 4 servings
Substitute basil or cilantro for the tarragon in the butter and take this chicken dish into a whole new flavor direction.
A wonderful recipe that is full of possibilities as a main course. Sliced, it creates delicious sandwiches for picnics on the beach.
3 large chicken breasts, skinned, boned, halved, and butterflied
3 tablespoons peanut oil
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1/4 cup Dijon mustard
11/2 tablespoons honey
11/2 cups panko or dry bread crumbs
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese
13/4 cups cooked black beans or a 15-ounce can black beans, drained
1 ripe mango, peeled, pitted, and coarsely chopped
1 avocado, peeled, pitted, and coarsely chopped
1 cup finely chopped seedless cucumber, skin left on
1/2 cup finely chopped red onion
1/4 cup fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons hot pepper sauce
1 teaspoon kosher salt
11/2 teaspoons sugar
1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro
Preheat the grill to high. Brush a metal sheet pan with 1 tablespoon of the peanut oil and set it aside.
Combine the mayonnaise, mustard, and honey in a small bowl. Mix together the panko, salt, pepper, and Parmesan on a large sheet pan. Cover both sides of the chicken breasts, first with the mayonnaise mixture, then generously coat each breast with the panko mixture. Place the chicken on the oiled sheet pan and drizzle with the remaining peanut oil. Grill 20 minutes, turning once.
To make the salsa, combine all the ingredients in a bowl, stir well, and serve with the crispy chicken breasts.
Yields 4 to 6 servings
For oven users: preheat oven to 500°F and follow the same directions as for grilling.
Brining the chops makes them succulent and juicy. The chops need to brine for 45 minutes and the salsa ought to chill for an hour.
1/2 cup kosher salt
1/2 cup sugar
11/2 quarts cold water
Four 11/2-inch-thick lean pork chops
2 ripe peaches, pitted, and chopped
1 avocado, peeled, pitted, and chopped
1 ripe mango, peeled, pitted, and chopped
1/4 cup minced shallots
1/2 red bell pepper, chopped
1/2 jalapeño pepper, seeded and minced
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
1/3 cup coarsely chopped fresh mint leaves
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup coarsely ground black pepper
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
2 teaspoons kosher salt
Dissolve the salt and sugar in the cold water to make the brine. Place the chops in a shallow casserole. Pour the brine over the meat and set it aside at room temperature for 45 minutes.
To make the salsa: combine all the ingredients in a bowl, and toss gently so as not to break up the fruit. Chill 1 hour to allow the juices to blend.
Preheat the grill to medium-high. Remove the chops from the brine and dry with paper towels. Combine the olive oil, pepper, thyme, and salt. Rub the mixture into the chops, on both sides. Grill, cover closed, 10 minutes per side. An instant-read thermometer should read 150°F to 155°F for just cooked. Serve the pork chops hot, with the chilled fruit salsa on the side.
Yields 4 servings
This recipe can be doubled to serve 8.
Lean pork can be a bit dry. Curing meat in a salt water solution makes it juicy and tender. Where I grew up on a farm in the most northern region of Germany, we butchered our own pigs. If my memory serves me correctly, there was a huge square free-form concrete basin in our cellar, where fresh hams, shoulder and loin meats were cured in a solution of cold water, salt, sugar, and saltpeter (potassium nitrate). We turned the meat every other day for 3 weeks. After that the meat was wrapped up in large kitchen towels and sent to the local smokehouse.
As summer approaches the rhubarb in my garden seems to experience a sudden growth spurt, rising 14 to 16 inches high and begging to be eaten. This chilled sweet-and-sour sauce complements the grilled pork beautifully. Ideally, the rhubarb sauce should be made a day or two ahead to give the flavors a chance to blend. But it is still utterly delicious when chilled through, on the same day.
2 pounds rhubarb (about 6 cups) cut into 1-inch pieces
1 cup sugar
1/4 cup honey
1/2 cup water
3 pounds pork tenderloin
1 tablespoon rubbed (ground) sage
2 teaspoons ground fennel
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1/3 cup olive oil
1 bunch watercress, rinsed and dried, stems removed
For the rhubarb sauce, place the rhubarb, sugar, honey, and water in a heavy saucepan and bring to a boil. Stir to blend, lower the heat, and simmer, covered, for 15 to 20 minutes until the rhubarb is tender. Transfer the rhubarb to a serving bowl and chill.
Trim the pork of all fat and sinew. Mash the sage, fennel, salt, pepper, mustard, and olive oil into a paste and rub the mixture over the tenderloin. Place the meat on a sheet pan and leave at room temperature for 30 minutes to marinate.
Grill the pork for about 20 minutes, turning on all sides to brown evenly. Test for doneness by inserting an instant-read thermometer into the thickest part; it should read 150° to 155°F. Remove from the heat and allow 5 minutes for the juices to settle. The meat will be tender and juicy.
Slice and serve on a bed of watercress with chilled rhubarb sauce on the side.
Yields 6 servings
My family and I were invited to a potluck picnic, sponsored by the local church where we had just moved. It was the first American barbecue we had ever attended, celebrating the Fourth of July, 1960. I made a large potato salad with chopped scallions, parsley, salt, and pepper, and dressed it with a light vinaigrette. It was placed on one of the long picnic tables where there sat an abundance of glorious foods—spareribs, baked beans, coleslaw, watermelon, homemade fruit pies. It was a dazzling display of food, most of which we had never seen or tasted before. When anyone tasted my potato salad they all remarked, “What? No mayonnaise?” It was a blissful day of tasting, testing, and exchanging recipes. I have cooked this dish ever since and our family relishes it still.
3 racks of baby back pork ribs
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup olive oil
2 cups finely chopped onion
4 cloves garlic, minced
4 cups canned crushed tomatoes with juices
11/2 cups cider vinegar
1 cup red wine
1/2 cup molasses
1/2 cup light brown sugar
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce
2 teaspoons red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon chili powder
Zest of 1 orange, in strips
1 bay leaf
12 tablespoons (6 ounces) melted unsalted butter or olive oil
1 clove garlic, minced
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place ribs in a large roasting pan and sprinkle with 2 teaspoons salt and 1 teaspoon black pepper. Add 4 cups of water to the pan. Cover tightly with foil and roast the ribs for 21/2 hours.
Remove foil. Cool 30 minutes or up to 3 hours.
For the barbecue sauce, place all the ingredients in a large heavy saucepan and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 30 minutes, stirring often to keep sauce from burning. Remove from heat. Discard the orange zest and bay leaf. Set it aside.
Preheat the grill to medium-high.
Arrange the ribs on the grill and heat until lightly charred. Brush generously with the sauce, making sure every part is covered. Grill until the sauce is lightly charred. Turn the ribs carefully and brush with more sauce. Grill until charred on both sides. Total grilling time should be anywhere from 10 to 14 minutes, depending on your grill.
Cut the racks between bones, each into four pieces. Arrange the ribs on a platter and serve with sauce on the side.
Combine the melted butter with the garlic.
Remove the husks from the corn and brush lightly with the melted butter. Grill, turning a few times, until brown in spots on all sides.
Yields 6 servings, including 2 quarts sauce
The ribs need little time on the grill. They have been precooked and must only heat, char, and absorb the sauce.
Freeze extra sauce and save for your next cookout.
I enthusiastically recommend this for those summer dinners when daylight lasts until well past nine, the red wine is special, the dessert is yet to come, and no one wants to leave. So simple to prepare and so beautiful to present, this special dish transforms summer dinners into exceptional occasions.
One 7-pound leg of lamb, boned, trimmed of all fat, and butterflied (about 4 pounds meat)
8 cloves garlic
1 cup honey
2/3 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary, leaves only
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
Place the lamb in a shallow casserole. Combine the garlic, honey, soy sauce, olive oil, lemon juice, rosemary, and pepper flakes in a food processor and process for 20 seconds. Pour the marinade over the lamb and let it sit at room temperature for 30 minutes, turning the lamb occasionally.
Preheat the grill to high.
Using paper towels, lightly pat the lamb dry. Reserve the marinade. Lower the heat a little and grill the lamb, 8 to 10 minutes per side. To check for doneness, insert an instant-read thermometer into the thickest part of the meat. It should read 130°F for medium rare. Transfer the lamb to a cutting board. Allow 5 minutes for the juices to settle.
Pour the marinade into a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Slice the lamb and serve with warm marinade on the side.
Yields 6 to 8 servings
If you don’t have the means or time, ask your butcher to bone, trim, and butterfly the leg of lamb.
The marinade is sweet and savory and when the intense heat of the grill seals in the juices it also helps to create a flavorful crust.
8 loin lamb chops, 11/2 inches thick
3 cloves garlic
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1/2 cup balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons honey
1/3 cup fresh mint leaves, loosely packed
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
4 egg yolks
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
16 tablespoons (8 ounces) unsalted butter, melted
Fresh rosemary sprigs, for garnish
Place the lamb chops in a roasting pan. Crush the garlic, salt, and pepper together and place in a small bowl. Add the rosemary, mustard, vinegar, and honey and mash it all into a paste.
Spread paste over both sides of the chops. Set the chops aside for 30 minutes, to marinate at room temperature. Meanwhile, heat the grill to hot.
To make the mint hollandaise, blend the mint leaves and lemon juice at high speed for about 3 seconds. Add the egg yolks, pepper, and salt and blend for only a second. Then with the motor running, add the melted butter in a slow stream and blend for 2 seconds. Pour the Mint Hollandaise into a sauceboat and keep warm.
Grill the chops 8 to 10 minutes total for rare to medium-rare. Using tongs, so as not to pierce the flesh, turn once to brown on both sides. Transfer chops to a serving platter.
Place the roasting pan with leftover marinade on the grill, just to heat. Pour the hot marinade over the chops. Serve garnished with fresh rosemary sprigs and the mint hollandaise on the side.
Yields 4 servings
This recipe can be doubled.
This is one of those satisfying summer meals you dream of in the middle of winter. To round everything out, add a simple baked potato topped with sour cream and croutons for the salad or olive oil–brushed grilled bread.
2 cloves garlic, minced
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon hot pepper flakes
11/2 pounds boneless sirloin steak, 11/2 inches thick, cut into 11/2- to 2-inch cubes
12 cremini or white button mushrooms
2 red onions, cut into 11/2-inch chunks
2 small heads romaine lettuce, torn into bite-size pieces
1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1 clove garlic, minced
1 flat anchovy fillet, minced
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup olive oil
1 egg yolk
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons heavy cream
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Place the garlic, vinegar, oil, and pepper flakes in a medium bowl and whisk to blend. Add the beef cubes, mushrooms, and onion and set it aside at room temperature for 30 minutes to marinate. Preheat grill to high heat.
Skewer the meat and vegetables, alternating each, onto 12-inch-long metal skewers. Reserve the marinade. Place the kebabs on the grill for 12 to 14 minutes, depending on desired doneness, turning to brown kebabs on all sides.
Push meat and vegetables off the skewers onto four dinner plates.
Heat the marinade in a small pot on the grill and spoon it over the meat.
Place the romaine and Parmesan in a large bowl.
Combine the dressing ingredients in a jar with a tight-fitting lid and shake well to blend. Pour over the salad and toss well. Adjust seasoning, adding salt and pepper to taste. Distribute the salad next to the kebabs on each of the plates.
Yields 4 servings
This classic French-style steak dinner is delicious, easy to prepare, and absolutely perfect for a special gathering.
4 tablespoons (2 ounces) unsalted butter
2 shallots, finely chopped (about 1/3 cup)
1/4 cup green peppercorns, drained and crushed
1 cup Chicken Stock (page 28)
1/2 cup dry white wine
11/3 cups heavy cream
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/4 cup minced flat-leaf parsley
4 New York strip steaks, 11/2 inches thick (about 21/2 pounds)
3 tablespoons coarsely cracked pepper
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/4 cup olive oil
Preheat the grill to high.
Melt the butter in a medium saucepan. Add the shallots and peppercorns. Cook over medium heat for 5 minutes, until the shallots turn glossy. Add the chicken stock and wine and bring to a boil. Continue cooking until the liquid has been reduced by half. Add the heavy cream, and salt and pepper to taste. Cook 5 minutes over medium-high heat, until the sauce coats a spoon. Set it aside at room temperature.
Season the steaks with the cracked pepper and salt. Brush the meat on both sides with the olive oil. Grill the steaks 4 to 5 minutes per side, turning to brown evenly. Transfer to four warmed dinner plates.
Reheat the sauce on the grill. Add the minced parsley. Nap the steaks with sauce and serve. Any remaining sauce can be passed around at serving time.
Yields 4 servings
The sauce can be made up to 2 hours ahead. This recipe can be doubled.
Grilling a whole beef filet is much easier than it seems and never fails to impress the guests. The beef marinates two hours before grilling, at which time the sauce can be prepared. The rest is as easy as one-two-three.
1 whole 61/2- to 7-pound beef tenderloin (about 31/2 pounds after trimming)
1 tablespoon sweet paprika
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground fennel
2 cloves garlic and 1 tablespoon kosher salt, mashed into a paste
1/3 cup olive oil
4 large cloves garlic
1/2 fresh jalapeño pepper, seeded and minced
3 tablespoons sherry vinegar
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon sugar
3/4 cup chopped curly parsley, packed
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1/2 cup chopped fresh mint leaves, packed
1 cup olive oil
Fresh herb sprigs, for garnish
Two hours before grilling, place the beef tenderloin on a large sheet pan. Mix together the paprika, cayenne, pepper, coriander, fennel, garlic paste, and oil and rub the mixture over and into the beef tenderloin. Set it aside at room temperature to marinate.
To make the herb sauce, place the garlic and jalapeño in a food processor fitted with a metal blade and process for 30 seconds. Add the vinegar, salt, sugar, parsley, cilantro, mint, and oil and process until smooth. Pour the sauce into a bowl and set aside.
Preheat grill to high. Place the tenderloin on the hot grill. The meat should cook for 18 to 20 minutes in total; turn once. Insert an instant-read thermometer into the thickest part of the beef. It should read 120° to 125°F. If not, grill 3 to 4 minutes longer.
Transfer the meat to a cutting board, tent with foil and let it rest for 10 minutes, allowing time for the juices to settle.
Carve into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Garnish the platter with fresh herbs and serve tenderloin with herb sauce on the side.
Yields 6 to 8 servings
If using the oven, preheat it to 500°F. Roast the tenderloin for 22 minutes, remove from oven, and tent it with foil for 10 minutes. Uncover, slice, and enjoy.
This cut of beef is shaped like a triangle and can be found in most butcher shops. It is well marbled with a texture much like flank steak, which means it soaks up marinade really well and is very tender.
1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon grated lime zest
1/4 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup brandy
4 cloves garlic, smashed with 1 tablespoon kosher salt
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1/2 cup chopped fresh oregano
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 pounds trimmed tri-tip steak, cut into 6 pieces
1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
1/2 cup minced red onion
1/4 cup minced mild chile peppers
1 teaspoon seeded and minced jalapeño pepper
4 cups teardrop or cherry tomatoes, halved
1 bunch fresh chives, chopped fine
1 small bunch fresh oregano, leaves only, chopped fine
1 teaspoon kosher salt
Combine the marinade ingredients in a food processor fitted with a metal blade and process until smooth. Place the steaks in a shallow casserole and pour the marinade over the meat. Let it rest at room temperature for 30 minutes or for up to 1 hour.
Preheat the grill or broiler to high.
Transfer the meat directly from the marinade onto the hot grill. Reduce the heat to medium. Discard the marinade.
Grill the steaks, turning once, 6 to 8 minutes in total for medium rare. If using a broiler, leave it on high and broil the meat 6 to 8 minutes, turning once. Transfer the meat to a cutting board.
Stir the sauce ingredients together in a bowl.
Slice the steaks on the diagonal. Arrange the slices on a platter and spoon some sauce over the steaks. Serve remaining sauce on the side.
Yields 6 servings
If your butcher does not have tri-tip steak, sirloin tip would do.
Tender young loin veal chops can be broiled as well as grilled. In summer I serve them with a mound of greens tossed with sliced fresh peaches, toasted pecans, and red onion rings, dressed lightly with balsamic vinaigrette.
Six 11/2-inch-thick loin veal chops, trimmed of fat
1 tablespoon rosemary leaves, chopped fine
2 cloves garlic, mashed with 11/2 teaspoons kosher salt
2 tablespoons coarsely cracked black pepper
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
1/2 cup olive oil
Place the veal chops in a shallow casserole just big enough to hold all of them. Mix together the rosemary, garlic paste, and pepper and rub the mixture into both sides of the chops. In a small bowl, whisk together the lemon juice and olive oil. Pour over the chops, turning once to moisten meat all around. Leave at room temperature for 30 minutes.
Preheat the grill to high. Place the chops on the grill, and if they brown too fast, lower heat to medium-high. Grill the meat 10 to 12 minutes per side, or until just cooked.
Yields 6 servings
For a change, serve the chops with a lime wedge, a sauté of garden vegetables, and some crusty bread.
There is nothing better on a warm summer evening than a lobster dinner. Ask your fishmonger to cut live lobsters in half and pack them in lots of ice. Plan on grilling the lobsters within 3 hours after you get them home.
4 live lobsters, halved, 1 to 11/2 pounds each
8 tablespoons (4 ounces) unsalted butter, melted
1 clove garlic, mashed with 1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon hot chili oil
2 limes, quartered
For serving: Additional melted butter infused with more chili oil, to taste
Preheat the grill to medium-high.
Place the lobster halves, shell side down, on the hot grill.
In a small bowl, combine the butter, garlic paste, and chili oil. Brush the lobster meat with the mixture, cover the grill and cook for 12 to 14 minutes.
Place two lobster halves on each of four dinner plates. Garnish with lime wedges. Serve with additional melted butter in small bowls, one for each guest.
Yields 4 servings
Swordfish is popular both at my home and at Loaves and Fishes. I like it because it can stand up to bold seasonings like the ones below. Grilling brings out the flavor while adding a touch of smokiness. The sauce is my take on Spanish Romesco. It should be prepared about an hour before you’re ready to grill the swordfish steaks.
2 red bell peppers, quartered, seeds and inner ribs removed
2 beefsteak tomatoes, halved crosswise
1 large onion, cut into 1/2-inch-thick slices
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 cup sliced hazelnuts, toasted
1 large clove garlic, minced
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro
Six 11/4-inch-thick swordfish steaks (21/2 to 3 pounds)
1/4 cup olive oil
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/3 cup coarsely crushed black peppercorns
1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves, for garnish
2 limes cut into wedges, for garnish
To prepare the sauce, preheat the oven to 400°F. Place the peppers, tomatoes, and onions on a sheet pan. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons olive oil, sprinkle with salt, and roast 35 to 40 minutes, until the vegetables are tender. Cool slightly. Transfer to a food processor. Add the hazelnuts, garlic, lemon juice, pepper flakes, 3/4 cup olive oil, and cilantro and purée until smooth. Taste for seasoning.
Preheat the grill to high.
Trim the swordfish steaks of all skin and any dark spots. Arrange the steaks on a baking sheet pan and brush thoroughly with olive oil. Sprinkle with the salt. Divide the crushed pepper evenly among the steaks, pressing it hard into both sides to make sure it adheres. Grill 3 to 4 minutes per side.
Serve garnished with cilantro and, for color, a lime wedge per plate. Nap each steak with sauce. Serve remaining sauce on the side.
Yields 6 servings
The Tomato-Pepper Sauce makes a really fine pasta sauce. You can also make it with 1/2 cup of olive oil and serve it as a dip with grilled bread or raw vegetables.
If you cannot find sliced hazelnuts, you can substitute sliced almonds.
Tuna is at its best when it has been briefly seared on a very hot grill, keeping the center raw and juicy. Its rich flavor goes well with the tangy slaw and Wasabi Cream. Ask for “sushi-grade” tuna at your fish market; that should insure its freshness. Don’t be put off by the list of ingredients—believe me, preparation goes really fast! Prepare the slaw first since it needs a little time for the seasonings to blend.
1 pound green cabbage
1/2 head radicchio
1/2 pound sugar snap peas, trimmed
1 medium carrot, peeled
1 small red onion, peeled
1/3 cup finely chopped curly parsley
11/2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup safflower oil
3 tablespoons rice vinegar
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
11/2 teaspoons sugar
4 sushi-grade tuna steaks, 11/2-inches thick (about 2 pounds), at room temperature
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon coarsely ground black pepper
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon wasabi powder
1 tablespoon water
1/2 teaspoon rice vinegar
1 cup mayonnaise
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
Fresh cilantro, for garnish
With your food processor, shred the cabbage, radicchio, snap peas, carrot, and onion. Transfer to a large bowl. Sprinkle with the parsley, salt, and pepper. Combine the safflower oil, rice vinegar, sesame oil, and sugar in a jar with a tight-fitting lid and shake well to blend. Pour the dressing over the slaw and toss well to coat all. Set aside.
Preheat the grill to high. Rub the tuna steaks with the olive oil, coarse pepper, coriander, and salt. Grill 3 to 4 minutes per side until done to your taste. Set aside on a platter.
To make the wasabi cream, stir the wasabi powder and water in a bowl to make a paste. Add the rice vinegar, mayonnaise, and salt. Whisk to combine.
To serve, place a mound of slaw on each of four dinner plates. Add the tuna steaks, garnish with the cilantro, and serve with the wasabi cream on the side.
Yields 4 servings
We like serving this dish with a simple rice pilaf and a sauté of baby spinach.
1 cup fresh orange juice
1/2 cup fresh lime juice
2 tablespoons light brown sugar
2 cloves garlic, mashed with 11/2 tablespoons kosher salt
1/4 cup minced fresh cilantro
1 tablespoon seeded and minced jalapeño pepper
11/2 pounds large raw shrimp, peeled and deveined (21/2 pounds if bought in their shells)
18 sea scallops
9 slices bacon, cut in half crosswise
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup coarsely chopped seedless cucumber, skin left on
11/2 cups coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
1 cup sour cream
11/4 cups mayonnaise
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon hot pepper sauce
A dozen 12-inch wooden skewers, soaked in hot water for 15 minutes prior to grilling to prevent scorching
Stir the orange and lime juice, sugar, garlic paste, cilantro, and jalapeño together in a large bowl. Add the shrimp and scallops and toss to coat. Set aside for 15 minutes to marinate at room temperature. Meanwhile, heat the grill to medium.
Grill the bacon on a baking sheet for 10 minutes until it is limp and has released most of its fat. Drain on paper towels.
Drain the scallops and shrimp and reserve the marinade. Wrap a piece of bacon around each scallop. Thread the scallops onto six skewers. Thread the shrimp onto the remaining skewers. Grill 7 to 8 minutes without turning. Transfer the skewers to a serving platter.
Cook the marinade in a small saucepan until the liquid is reduced to about 1/2 cup. Drizzle over the seafood skewers.
To make the sauce, place the garlic, cucumber, and cilantro in a food processor fitted with a metal blade and process until fine. Add the sour cream, mayonnaise, salt, and hot sauce. Pulse just to combine.
Offer the sauce on the side.
Yields 6 servings
If you’re cooking indoors, cook the bacon in a preheated oven at 350°F for 10 to 15 minutes until the bacon is limp. Make sure not to crisp the bacon; it must remain limp so that it can be wrapped around the seafood. Broil the skewers 7 to 8 minutes.
We also use the Cilantro-Cucumber Sauce with poached chicken or as a dressing for green salads. Covered and refrigerated, it lasts for up to a week.
This recipe can be easily doubled.
21/2 pounds skinless salmon fillet, cut into 4 equal pieces
1 cup fresh orange juice
1/4 cup fresh lime juice
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
6 tablespoons (3 ounces) unsalted butter, melted
1 tablespoon snipped chives, for garnish
Place the salmon pieces in a shallow casserole. Stir the orange, lime, and lemon juices, salt, and cayenne together in a bowl and pour over salmon. Set aside for 15 minutes at room temperature to marinate.
Preheat the grill to medium-high. Take salmon from the marinade and pat dry with paper towels. Reserve the marinade. Brush each piece of salmon generously with melted butter and place on the heated grill for 2 minutes with the lid closed. Transfer to four dinner plates, and garnish with the chives.
Pour marinade into a saucepan, set it on the grill and bring to a boil. Pour the hot marinade into a sauceboat to serve along with the salmon.
Yields 4 servings