FISH AND SEAFOOD

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Turquoise waters, colourful fishing boats, an abundance of sunshine and romantic sunsets over glittering seas … all images that spring to mind when thinking of the Mediterranean.

In the sea, there is an abundance of fish and seafood. With such a long coastline, it’s only natural that they play an important role in the Mediterranean diet. Here in South Africa, we have a wide variety of seafood and fish of our own, though we have to be discerning when selecting the fish we eat as some local fish stocks are coming under pressure. To ensure that you’re choosing ethically, consult the latest SASSI list at website: wwfsassi.co.za

Fish and seafood are rich in minerals and nutrients. They are high in protein, low in saturated fat and a rich source of vitamin D and selenium.

The recipes I’ve selected vary from famous dishes such as paella from Spain to my own individual dishes, such as marinated calamari salad served with the ingredients you’d find in a Caprese salad. They all have a unique Mediterranean charm and evoke the distinctive laid-back lifestyle that seduces us all.

There is a surprising similarity between the seafood and fish that are available in South African waters and along the Mediterranean coast. Shared favourites include prawns, calamari, tuna and hake. But it’s also easy to make substitutions. Sea bass, eaten throughout the Mediterranean, is a firm white fish that can be substituted with yellowtail or kabeljou, while kingklip is a handy substitute for red snapper and grouper.

These fish and seafood dishes are all easy to prepare, with the focus on simplicity and fresh ingredients. I realise, however, that fresh seafood isn’t always available. The best way to thaw fish is to leave it in a sealed bag in the fridge to thaw gradually, allowing it to retain texture and flavour. But if you’re really pressed for time, place it in a sealed bag, in a pot of cold water for at least 30 minutes.

AMALFI TOMATO TUNA

LEMONS AND FISH ARE PERFECT PARTNERS AND ITALY’S AMALFI COAST IS WELL KNOWN FOR ITS FRAGRANT LEMON GROVES. THE COLOUR COMBINATIONS OF THIS DISH REMIND ME OF THE BRIGHT BEACH UMBRELLAS YOU SEE ALONG THIS MAJESTIC COASTLINE. THE HEALTH BENEFITS OF EATING TUNA ARE CONSIDERABLE AS IT’S RICH IN OMEGA-3 FATTY OIL, HIGH IN PROTEIN AND LIFTS THE BODY’S MAGNESIUM AND POTASSIUM LEVELS. SERVE THE TUNA WITH BABY POTATOES IN THEIR JACKETS.

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MARINADE

SAUCE

DRESSING FOR POTATOES

  1. For the marinade, place the capers, white wine, lemon juice and yoghurt in a blender and blitz until finely chopped.
  2. Season the tuna steaks liberally with pepper and a touch of salt, then place in a sealable bag.
  3. Pour the marinade into the bag and toss to ensure that the tuna steaks are well coated.
  4. Refrigerate for a minimum of 30 minutes.
  5. To prepare the sauce, gently sauté the sun-dried tomatoes, rosa tomatoes, balsamic vinegar, garlic, white wine and basil in a saucepan for about 5 minutes. If it starts to dry out, add the quarter cup of water. Set aside.
  6. Place the baby marrows in a pan with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and sauté until they start to brown.
  7. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside, but keep warm.
  8. Boil the potatoes until cooked but still firm.
  9. To make the dressing, mix together the yoghurt, mayonnaise and basil, then season with salt and pepper.
  10. Remove the tuna from the bag (discard the marinade) and sauté in a preheated pan until just done on the outside, but still quite rare on the inside. Remove and keep warm.
  11. To serve, arrange some of the baby marrows on each plate, place a tuna steak on top and spoon over some sauce. Add a few baby potatoes to each plate and pour some of the dressing over them, then sprinkle with chives. If you like, you could also serve lemon wedges on the side.

MARSEILLE SEAFOOD STEW

THE FRENCH MAKE A DELICIOUS FISH SOUP CALLED BOUILLABAISSE, WHICH ORIGINATED IN MARSEILLE. THE FISHERMEN WOULD MAKE A STEW FROM THE UNSOLD FISH AT THE END OF THE DAY, BUT THERE ARE MANY VERSIONS. EACH MARSEILLAIS FAMILY AND RESTAURANT ARE CONVINCED THAT THEIRS IS THE AUTHENTIC DISH. THIS RECIPE IS A VERY LOOSE ADAPTATION – MORE A STEW THAN A BROTH – BUT EQUALLY DELICIOUS.

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  1. Marinate the calamari in the milk, sliced garlic and half the lemon juice for at least 2 hours.
  2. Add the olive oil to a large saucepan and gently fry the onion, leeks, whole garlic, mixed herbs, paprika and chilli for a few minutes.
  3. Stir in the olives, beans and tomatoes, then simmer for about 5 minutes.
  4. Remove the calamari from the marinade and set aside.
  5. Pour the marinade into the olive-and-bean mixture, as well as the lemon zest and remaining lemon juice. Allow the sauce to simmer and thicken for 15–20 minutes.
  6. Add the shelled prawns, calamari and spinach. Simmer, without stirring, for about 5 minutes or until the calamari is just cooked. (Be careful not to overcook the calamari and prawns.)
  7. Season with salt and pepper.
  8. To serve, arrange the 4 large unshelled prawns on top and scatter over the parsley.
  9. Serve in bowls with brown rice to soak up the sauce and a simple green salad. Or for a more indulgent option, substitute the brown rice with a freshly sliced French baguette.

CHERMOULA FISH SALAD

CHERMOULA IS TRADITIONALLY A MOROCCAN AND TUNISIAN HERB AND SPICE MARINADE USED TO FLAVOUR FISH AND OTHER DISHES. IT’S PERFECT FOR ADDING DELICIOUS FLAVOUR TO KINGKLIP, THE WHITE, DEEP-SEA FISH FOUND IN THE SEAS AROUND SOUTH AFRICA. A SIMILAR FISH CAUGHT OFF MOROCCO AND ALONG THE MEDITERRANEAN COAST IS SEA BASS. IN THIS SALAD THE ORANGE SEGMENTS PROVIDE JUST THE RIGHT COMBINATION OF SWEET ’N SOUR TO CONTRAST DELIGHTFULLY WITH THE SIZZLING FLAVOUR OF THE FIRM-FLESHED FISH – CREATING A PERFECT BALANCE FOR THE PALATE.

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CHERMOULA PASTE

DRESSING

  1. Blend all the chermoula paste ingredients together.
  2. Coat the fish with the paste, then refrigerate for about 1 hour.
  3. Heat a little olive oil in griddle pan and fry the fish a few minutes on each side, until cooked. Season the fish with salt.
  4. Combine the oranges, mint, spring onions, rocket and salad greens, then arrange on a platter.
  5. Place the fish on top of the salad.
  6. Whisk the dressing ingredients together and pour over the salad and fish.
  7. Finally, scatter the almonds and pomegranate arils over all and serve immediately.

CYCLADIC TUNA CROQUETTES WITH BABY MARROWS

CROQUETTE IS FROM THE FRENCH WORD ‘CROQUER’, WHICH MEANS ‘TO CRUNCH’, A PERFECT DESCRIPTION OF THESE CRUNCHY BALLS OF FLAVOUR. THE CYCLADES ARE A GROUP OF GREEK ISLANDS THAT FORM A CIRCLE AROUND THE SACRED ISLAND OF DELOS. THE CROQUETTES CAN BE EATEN ON THEIR OWN (THE WAY THEY ARE SERVED ON THESE SCENIC ISLANDS) OR AS PART OF A SALAD (MY PREFERENCE) TO CREATE A MORE SUBSTANTIAL MEAL.

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CROQUETTES

DRESSING

  1. For the croquettes, combine the baby marrows, garlic (if using), onion and flour with the tuna.
  2. Season with a touch of salt and pepper.
  3. Add the feta, dill and egg and mix thoroughly.
  4. Using your hands, roll the mixture into small balls.
  5. Heat some olive oil in a pan and place the balls in the pan. Flatten them slightly with a spatula and cook for approximately 3 minutes on each side or until golden and cooked through.
  6. Set aside, but keep them warm.
  7. Toss the kidney beans, onion, tomatoes, yellow pepper and spinach leaves together and arrange on a platter.
  8. Mix together the dressing ingredients and pour generously over the salad or serve on the side.
  9. Finally, place the croquettes on top of the salad and serve with the lemon wedges on the side.

HAKE WITH FYSTIKIA CRUST

‘FYSTIKIA’ IS THE GREEK WORD FOR PISTACHIOS AND GREECE IS THE LARGEST EUROPEAN PRODUCER OF THESE NUTS. PISTACHIOS AREN’T JUST DELICIOUS, THEY’RE ALSO GOOD FOR YOU AS THEY ARE RICH IN POTASSIUM AND VITAMIN K. INTERESTINGLY, PISTACHIOS ARE ONE OF THE OLDEST NUTS KNOWN TO US AND ONE OF ONLY TWO NUTS MENTIONED IN THE BIBLE. THE QUEEN OF SHEBA LOVED THEM SO MUCH SHE IS SAID TO HAVE DEMANDED THAT THE ENTIRE REGION’S PISTACHIO HARVEST BE SET ASIDE FOR HER! THIS DISH GOES WELL WITH A RICE AND ROCKET ACCOMPANIMENT.

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HERB CRUST

  1. Preheat the oven to 180°C.
  2. Add the rice to a saucepan and pour in the water. Bring to the boil and allow to simmer for about 20 minutes or until cooked. Drain, rinse and set aside.
  3. For the herb crust, crush the pistachios in a blender.
  4. Add the bread, rosemary, thyme, salt and pepper and blend again.
  5. Coat the hake fillets with the honey and then cover the fish completely in the herb crust.
  6. Place the fish pieces onto a greased baking tray and bake for about 6 minutes or until done.
  7. In a pan, drizzle a touch of olive oil and fry the onion until translucent.
  8. Add the spinach, dill and cooked rice and stir through, allowing the spinach to wilt.
  9. Add the rocket leaves and mix together.
  10. Squeeze the lemon juice over, add the salt and pepper and mix.
  11. Finally, sprinkle the lemon zest over the rice mixture.
  12. Serve immediately with the fish.

CALAMARI CAPRESE SALAD

CALAMARI IS READILY AVAILABLE ALONG BOTH THE MEDITERRANEAN AND SOUTH AFRICAN COASTS. TO CREATE A LIGHT MEAL, I’VE ADDED IT TO A CAPRESE SALAD OR INSALATA CAPRESE, A SALAD THAT ORIGINATED ON THE ISLAND OF CAPRI IN THE CAMPANIA REGION OF SOUTHERN ITALY. THIS COLOURFUL, VISUALLY APPEALING MEAL IS HARD TO RESIST. THE COOL, FRESH FLAVOURS ARE PERFECT FOR SERVING AT AN AL FRESCO LUNCH DURING OUR LONG, HOT SUMMERS AND I LOVE ADDING FRESH CIABATTA BREAD TO MOP UP THE EXCESS SAUCE. DO NOTE THAT THE CALAMARI NEEDS TO BE COOKED THE DAY BEFORE.

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  1. In a frying pan, heat the 2 tablespoons of olive oil and fry the calamari rings, turning often, until just done (about 5 minutes). Be careful not to overcook, then leave to cool.
  2. Mix the lemon juice with the half a cup of olive oil, then stir in the cooled calamari.
  3. Refrigerate overnight.
  4. The following day, add the garlic and parsley to the calamari mixture, stir through and allow to marinate in the fridge for at least another 2 hours.
  5. To complete the rest of the dish, arrange the tomatoes and mozzarella on a platter, scatter over the basil leaves followed by the calamari rings, but reserve the marinade as a dressing.
  6. Slice the avocado and arrange on top.
  7. Finally, pour over the marinade dressing, season to taste and serve with fresh wholewheat rolls or ciabatta.

VALENCIA-STYLE PAELLA

VALENCIA WAS ESTABLISHED AS A COLONY BY THE ANCIENT ROMANS, WHO INTRODUCED THE CONCEPT OF IRRIGATION TO THE SETTLEMENT. CENTURIES LATER, WHEN THE MOORS WERE IN CONTROL OF SPAIN, THEY IMPROVED UPON THESE IRRIGATION SYSTEMS AND BEGAN THE CULTIVATION OF RICE AS FAR BACK AS THE 10TH CENTURY, THEREBY ESTABLISHING THE SPANISH TRADITION OF EATING RICE. THERE ARE AS MANY VERSIONS OF PAELLA AS THERE ARE INGREDIENTS. I’VE USED RISOTTO RICE, WHICH ISN’T TRADITIONAL BUT IS READILY AVAILABLE AND WORKS PERFECTLY BY ABSORBING ALL THE DELICIOUS FLAVOURS. SMOKED PAPRIKA, OR PIMENTO AS IT’S KNOWN IN SPAIN, ADDS A WONDERFUL SMOKINESS TO ANY DISH AND IS A STAPLE IN EVERY SPANISH KITCHEN.

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  1. Soak the saffron threads in the white wine for about 10 minutes.
  2. Heat a touch of olive oil in a cast-iron pan and fry the chorizo until crispy. Remove and set aside.
  3. To the same pan, add the prawns, chilli and juice of a quarter of a lemon, then fry until the prawns just turn pink. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside.
  4. Add the onion and garlic to the pan and cook until the onion has softened, but not browned.
  5. Add the chicken pieces and fry until browned.
  6. Return the chorizo to the pan, along with the rice. Mix well, toasting the rice for about 3 minutes.
  7. Add the saffron and wine, tomato paste, artichokes, paprika and chicken stock.
  8. Cover, bring rapidly to the boil and boil for about 10 minutes.
  9. When most of the liquid has been absorbed, return the prawns to the pan and add the peas.
  10. Cook for another few minutes then remove from the heat but keep covered and leave to rest for another 5 minutes.
  11. Squeeze the balance of the lemons over all.
  12. Arrange the intact cooked prawns on top, season to taste, garnish with the parsley and serve immediately with extra lemon wedges on the side.

ENSALADA DE MARISCOS (SEAFOOD SALAD)

SEAFOOD IS ABUNDANT ALONG THE COAST OF SPAIN AND WE ARE LUCKY ENOUGH TO BE BLESSED WITH GOOD STOCKS IN SOUTH AFRICA AS WELL. READY-MIXED SEAFOOD IS AVAILABLE IN MOST SUPERMARKETS AND CREATES A FRESH COMBINATION OF TASTES AND TEXTURES THAT IS VISUALLY ATTRACTIVE AND DELICIOUS TO EAT. THIS REFRESHING SUMMER SALAD IS JUST WHAT YOU NEED WHEN THE SUN IS BLAZING OUTSIDE.

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DRESSING

  1. Steam the seafood mix until just cooked.
  2. Remove from the heat, drizzle the lemon juice over the mix, stir to coat and leave to cool.
  3. Heat the olive oil in a non-stick pan and gently sauté the peppers, olives and smoked paprika until the peppers soften slightly. Set aside to cool.
  4. Stir the tomatoes into the cooled seafood mix, along with the peppers and olives.
  5. Add the parsley and dill and stir through.
  6. Whisk the dressing ingredients together and pour over the entire salad. Toss to coat well.
  7. Serve chilled with some bread to soak up the dressing.

BODRUM FISH SALAD

TURKEY IS FAMOUS FOR ITS SPICES AND A VISIT TO ISTANBUL’S SPICE BAZAAR WILL SHOW YOU WHY. ROWS OF FRESHLY GROUND SPICES LINE THE ALLEYWAYS AND AISLES OF THIS HISTORIC MARKET. BUT YOU DON’T HAVE TO GO TO ISTANBUL TO ENJOY THE FLAVOURS. SUMAC IS AVAILABLE IN OUR STORES; IT’S A VERSATILE SPICE WITH A TANGY, LEMONY FLAVOUR, PERFECT FOR FISH. IN THIS RECIPE, SUMAC ADDS COLOUR AND SPICINESS, MINT THE FRESHNESS AND FETA A SILKY FINISH. BODRUM WAS ORIGINALLY A LITTLE TURKISH FISHING VILLAGE WHERE THE LOCALS CHOSE THEIR FISH, STRAIGHT OFF THE FISHING BOATS.

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  1. Sauté the brinjal slices in a little oil, until cooked. Set aside on absorbent kitchen towel.
  2. Cut the fish into large chunks and season liberally with the sumac.
  3. Heat a pan with a little oil and fry the fish, turning occasionally, until cooked. Set aside, but keep warm and season with salt and pepper.
  4. Mix together the lentils, celery, spring onions, feta, mint, parsley and Peppadews.
  5. Blend together the lemon juice, mustard, salt and pepper, and a quarter cup of olive oil. Pour over the lentil mixture and stir to ensure that the ingredients are well coated.
  6. Separate the lettuce leaves and arrange individual leaves on each plate. Spoon in the lentil mixture.
  7. Place the brinjal slices next to the lettuce leaves and arrange a portion of fish on top.
  8. Garnish with the parsley. Serve with wedges of lemon, if you like.

SALMON WITH VEGETABLES PROVENÇAL

THIS DELECTABLE BLEND OF TEXTURES, COLOURS AND FLAVOURS IS REMINISCENT OF THE VIBRANT FOOD MARKETS OF PROVENCE, WHICH BORDERS THE MEDITERRANEAN ALONG THE SOUTHEASTERN COAST OF FRANCE.

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LEMON SAUCE

  1. Preheat the oven to 190°C.
  2. Coat the carrots in 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, transfer into an ovenproof dish and roast for about 5 minutes.
  3. Add the radishes, green beans, red pepper, onion and garlic to the carrots, along with another 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Mix well to ensure that all the vegetables are coated with the oil and garlic.
  4. Add the juiced lemons (for extra flavour, but remove before serving). Roast for 10 minutes, then add the tomatoes and roast for another 10 minutes.
  5. Season the salmon fillets with salt and pepper.
  6. Heat a non-stick pan until hot, add the fillets and cook for about 3 minutes per side, or until the salmon is cooked but still pink in the middle. Set aside and keep warm.
  7. For the sauce, pour the lemon juice into a saucepan, add the egg yolks and whisk. Add the water and continue whisking over a low heat until the mixture starts to thicken, but remove from heat if the eggs begin to ‘scramble’.
  8. Add the dill and season with salt.
  9. Add the yoghurt and whisk well. Remove from the heat once the sauce is heated through and thickened.
  10. Cook the baby potatoes in boiling water until done.
  11. To serve, arrange the mixed vegetables on each plate, place a salmon fillet on top and the potatoes to the side. Serve the lemon sauce on the side, garnish as desired and serve immediately.