MEAT

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Traditionally, meat was a luxury item in Mediterranean countries and only enjoyed on special occasions. Vegetation on grazing land is often sparse and many regions are mountainous, without the rich farmland necessary to support herds of dairy cattle. This explains the prevalence of pork, goat meat and lamb in the local diet. It’s often said Sardinia has more sheep than people!

In the past, meat was served in small amounts to add flavour and texture to a meal. But this doesn’t mean we should deny ourselves the comfort of stews, the smell of meat grilling on a braai, or the succulence of lamb roasted in the oven. Meat is an important source of protein and cooking it the Mediterranean way creates a lot of flavour while keeping the meat lean.

In winter, venison plays an important role along the Mediterranean. Signs along the roads in Provence warn you of boar hunting. Here in South Africa, our own version of venison is available in winter in the form of kudu and springbok. Ostrich is available year round and is a healthy alternative. Lamb, pork and mince are readily available, making it easy to follow these recipes.

The dishes in this chapter will take your taste buds on a culinary voyage across the Mediterranean, from outdoor restaurants serving traditional kleftiko to guests after a day on the sands of an unspoilt Greek island, through carpaccio paired with a glass of prosecco to patrons as they sit under a starlit Italian sky, to memorable, rich Marrakesh stews served to visitors as they watch swirling dervishes.

IZMIR KÖFTES

THIS DISH CONJURES UP ROMANTIC IMAGES OF TURKEY, A LAND WHERE MEATBALLS ARE MADE WITH EITHER MINCED LAMB OR A COMBINATION OF LAMB AND BEEF. THE END RESULT IS KNOWN AS ‘KÖFTE’ (ALSO SPELT ‘KOFTA’). KÖFTES COME IN MANY SHAPES AND SIZES AND ARE COOKED IN DIFFERENT WAYS. IN THIS RECIPE I’VE FOLLOWED THE IZMIR KÖFTES STYLE, A TOWN RENOWNED FOR ITS MEATBALLS, WHICH CALLS FOR THEM TO BE FRIED FIRST AND THEN COOKED IN A TOMATO SAUCE. THEY ARE TRADITIONALLY SERVED WITH CACIK, WHICH IS A CUCUMBER AND YOGHURT DIP. HERE, IT WORKS JUST AS WELL WITH PLAIN YOGHURT.

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Leek & baby marrow pilaf (left) and Ismir köftes (right)

KÖFTES

SAUCE

  1. Soak the bread in the water for about 5 minutes.
  2. Lightly beat the egg in a large bowl.
  3. Squeeze the water out of the bread then add the bread to the egg and season with salt and pepper.
  4. Add the meat, garlic and ground cumin and mix well. (I find it best to do this with my hands.)
  5. Roll a tablespoonful of the mixture into a fat sausage-shape. Using your finger, make an indentation along the length of the ‘sausage’. Fill the indentation with a cube of feta, then reshape the meat around the feta, covering it completely but retaining the slightly oblong shape of the köfte.
  6. Once all the meat has been shaped around the feta, lightly roll each köfte in a little flour.
  7. Heat some oil in a pan and fry the köftes until brown. You will probably have to do this in batches.
  8. Remove and drain them on absorbent kitchen paper.
  9. For the sauce, pour some oil into a saucepan and fry the cumin seeds gently for a few seconds to release the aroma.
  10. Stir in the tomatoes, olives, water and tomato purée.
  11. Add the köftes and leave to simmer for about 5 minutes, ensuring that they are well covered.
  12. Add a dollop of yoghurt onto the köftes just before serving.
  13. Serve with Leek & Baby Marrow Pilaf (see page 69).

THE MED MIX SALAD

THIS DISH REPRESENTS THE ESSENCE OF ALL THAT IS MEDITERRANEAN, ALL ON ONE PLATE. THE TEMPTING COMBINATION OF TOMATO AND BASIL ALONG WITH THE CRUNCHINESS OF THE CROUTONS CONTRASTS WITH THE PLUMPNESS OF THE OLIVES, IN AN ARRAY OF COLOURS. IN THIS CASE, TEMPTATION IS HEALTHY. TOMATOES ARE A GOOD SOURCE OF LYCOPENE, AN IMPORTANT PHYTOCHEMICAL THAT GIVES THEM THEIR RED COLOURING. BY ROASTING THE TOMATOES, EVEN MORE LYCOPENE IS RELEASED, ENHANCING THEIR ANTIOXIDANT PROPERTIES.

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MARINADE

DRESSING

  1. Cut the fillet into 4 smaller steaks.
  2. Combine the marinade ingredients, then marinate the steaks in it for about 10 minutes.
  3. Heat a griddle pan until hot and sear the steaks on all sides. Then turn down the heat and continue to grill for a further few minutes until the steaks are done to your liking.
  4. Remove and leave the steaks to rest, covered, for about 10 minutes.
  5. Slice the steaks into strips and return to the marinade for another 5 minutes.
  6. Preheat the oven to 180°C and roast the tomatoes on a baking tray until they start to blister. Leave to cool.
  7. Combine the olives, rocket and basil leaves and add the cooled tomatoes.
  8. Whisk together the dressing ingredients, pour over the salad and toss well.
  9. Transfer the salad to a serving platter, arrange the steak slices on top and scatter over the pine nuts and garlic croutons.

BACON & LEEK

FRITTATA IBRIDA

IS IT AN OMELETTE OR IS IT A FRITTATA? WELL ACTUALLY, IT’S A HYBRID (IBRIDA). THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN AN OMELETTE AND A FRITTATA IS SIMPLE. THE INGREDIENTS FOR AN OMELETTE ARE CAREFULLY PLACED INTO THE MIXED EGGS AS THEY COOK IN THE PAN. WITH A FRITTATA, THE INGREDIENTS AND THE EGGS ARE ALL MIXED TOGETHER AND THEN COOKED. HOWEVER, THIS ISN’T A TRADITIONAL FRITTATA BECAUSE IT’S BAKED AND NOT FRIED. THE FRIED VERSION TAKES A LITTLE PRACTICE TO MASTER, ESPECIALLY THE FLIPPING. THIS ONE IS MUCH EASIER AS IT’S BAKED IN THE OVEN, SO THERE’S NO RISK OF ACCIDENTALLY FLIPPING YOUR MEAL ONTO THE KITCHEN FLOOR!

  1. Preheat the oven to 200°C. Grease an ovenproof dish.
  2. Fry the bacon in a pan, until almost crispy.
  3. Add the onion and cook until softened. Set aside.
  4. In another clean pan gently sauté the leeks in a splash of olive oil for about 3 minutes to soften them.
  5. Add the spinach and dill and mix well.
  6. In a separate bowl, break the eggs and whisk them together.
  7. Stir in the yoghurt and tomato paste until well mixed. Season with salt and pepper.
  8. Crumble the feta into the egg mixture. Add all the other ingredients and mix well.
  9. Pour into the prepared ovenproof dish and bake for about 15 minutes.
  10. Switch on the grill and grill for approximately 5 minutes or until the top is golden.
  11. Serve hot or at room temperature with a dollop of yoghurt and leafy greens, if you like.

CARPACCIO ON GREENS

CARPACCIO IS THE STAR OF THE SHOW HERE, BALANCING SUPERBLY WITH SIMPLE GREENS THAT ARE PARTNERED WITH THE GRAINY PARMESAN, OR PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO AS IT’S LABELLED IN ITALY. IN THIS DISH I OPT FOR MIXED LEAVES FOR THEIR COLOUR AND VARIETY. TO ADD EXTRA DEPTH TO THE FLAVOUR, THE CARPACCIO IS MARINATED IN BALSAMIC VINEGAR, ALSO NATIVE TO ITALY. THE ADDITION OF BABY POTATOES MAKES THE MEAL MORE SUBSTANTIAL; PERFECT TO SERVE TO FRIENDS AS PART OF A SUMMER LUNCH AND DELICIOUS WITH AN ICE-COLD GLASS OF WHITE WINE.

MARINADE

  1. Mix together the marinade ingredients in a dish.
  2. Add the fillet slices, making sure the marinade covers them well.
  3. Refrigerate for about an hour, to allow the flavours to develop.
  4. Scatter the salad and spinach leaves on a serving platter.
  5. Slice the baby potatoes and arrange them over the leaves.
  6. Combine the olive oil, chilli and salt and pepper, then pour over the leaves and potatoes.
  7. Arrange the slices of fillet attractively on the platter and scatter over the Parmesan shavings.

KLEFTIKO

THIS IS GREEK CUISINE AT ITS BEST. WHO CAN RESIST THE AROMAS AND FLAVOURS OF ROASTED LAMB? KLEFTIKO LITERALLY MEANS ‘STOLEN LAMB’. THE NAME ORIGINATED DURING THE 19TH CENTURY WHEN ‘COMMONERS’ WERE BANNED FROM OWNING THEIR OWN ANIMALS, SO PEOPLE USED TO STEAL A LAMB AND COOK IT IN A HOME-MADE OVEN; REALLY JUST A HOLE IN THE GROUND, COVERED WITH A ROCK. NO SMELLS OR SMOKE COULD ESCAPE TO BETRAY THE THIEF AND THE LAMB COULD BE SAFELY LEFT TO COOK SLOWLY FOR SEVERAL HOURS.

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Greek-style lemon potatoes (left) and Kleftiko (right)

  1. Preheat the oven to 170°C.
  2. Cut 6—7 small incisions in the lamb in various places and push the garlic into them.
  3. Rub the olive oil over the surface of the lamb.
  4. Dust the entire surface of the lamb with the flour and season with salt and pepper.
  5. Place in a roasting pan and scatter the vegetables, rosemary and the lemon wedges around the pan.
  6. Pour the balsamic vinegar over the lamb and then add about 2 cups of the red wine.
  7. Cover and roast for about 2 hours, then turn the lamb and return to the oven for another 2 hours. Check once or twice to ensure that the meat isn’t dry. If necessary, add the remaining wine.
  8. Once cooked, remove and shred the meat. Liberally coat the shredded lamb with the cooking juices and serve.
  9. Best served with Greek-style Lemon Potatoes (see page 73) and Briam (see page 70).

MARRAKESH BEEF STEW

POMEGRANATES, COUSCOUS, CINNAMON AND CHICKPEAS ARE QUINTESSENTIALLY MOROCCAN. HERE, THIS COMBINATION OF INGREDIENTS CREATES A DELICIOUSLY FRAGRANT MEAL THAT EVOKES THE COLOURS AND AROMAS OF THE ANCIENT SOUK FOR WHICH MARRAKESH IS FAMOUS. TRADITIONALLY, THIS DISH IS COOKED IN A TAGINE, A CONICAL EARTHENWARE POT. THE DISTINCTIVE SHAPE OF THE TAGINE ALLOWS THE FOOD TO REMAIN MOIST DURING THE COOKING PROCESS WHILE CREATING CIRCULATION WITHIN THE POT, THEREBY INFUSING THE FOOD WITH THE ASSORTED SPICES AND RELEASING THEIR FLAVOURS.

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  1. Dip the beef chunks in the flour and then fry them in a splash of olive oil in a heated casserole dish until browned.
  2. Add the remaining oil and fry the onion together with the meat.
  3. Pour in 11/2 cups of the chicken stock.
  4. Add the chopped tomatoes, tomato paste, cumin, cinnamon, salt, pepper, dried mint and cayenne pepper and stir.
  5. Cover the casserole dish and leave to simmer for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. If necessary, add the water.
  6. Add the carrots, green pepper and brinjal and stir.
  7. Cover and leave to simmer for another 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.
  8. After 15 minutes, add the orange juice and chickpeas and stir.
  9. Just before the meat has finished cooking, bring the remaining stock to the boil in a saucepan until reduced by half, then add the couscous.
  10. Allow the couscous to absorb all the liquid, stirring occasionally. When ready, fluff up with a fork.
  11. To serve, spoon some couscous (not more than one-quarter of the plate) onto each plate, ladle over some of the meat and sauce with vegetables and finally add a dollop of yoghurt on top of the meat. Scatter a few pomegranate arils on top, along with the parsley.

VENISON SALAD

INSPIRED BY THE RICH FLAVOURS AND BRIGHT COLOURS OF MEDITERRANEAN COOKING, THIS SALAD COMBINES THE HEARTINESS OF THE OSTRICH WITH PAWPAW, ITS SWEET PARTNER. THE SURPRISE IS THE SALTY FETA, WHICH SUPERBLY COMPLEMENTS BOTH MEAT AND LENTILS. LENTILS ARE CONSIDERED LUCKY IN SPAIN AT THE START OF THE NEW YEAR. ACCORDING TO SPANISH TRADITION, EACH ROUND LENTIL REPRESENTS A COIN, SO EATING LENTILS SUPPOSEDLY BRINGS YOU WEALTH IN THE YEAR AHEAD. VENISON IS PART OF THE CUISINE OF MANY MEDITERRANEAN COUNTRIES. HERE, I’VE TAKEN OUR EASILY AVAILABLE, HEALTHY VERSION – OSTRICH – AND PUT IT TO WORK IN THIS DELECTABLE MAIN COURSE SALAD.

DRESSING

  1. Smear the ostrich steaks with the mustard.
  2. Heat a griddle pan until hot, add the steaks and drizzle 1 tablespoon of balsamic vinegar onto each steak.
  3. Turn the steaks over after about 4 minutes. Cook for about 3 minutes on the other side until cooked to your preference, ideally medium-rare. If the steaks start to stick to the pan, pour in the white wine to loosen them.
  4. Leave the steaks to rest, covered, for 5–10 minutes before slicing thinly.
  5. Combine the avocados, three-quarters of the pawpaw, the feta and lentils.
  6. Add the spinach, dill and sliced ostrich. Combine gently so as not to break the avocado and pawpaw.
  7. For the dressing, blend together the last quarter of the pawpaw, the oil, vinegar and basil. Add the water if the dressing is too thick. Season with salt and pepper.
  8. Pour the dressing over the salad and toss gently.

STEAK CIPOLLA

OSTRICH STEAK IS READILY AVAILABLE IN SOUTH AFRICA SO I’VE USED IT INSTEAD OF THE MORE TRADITIONAL WILD BOAR OR ELK THAT YOU’D FIND IN THE MEDITERRANEAN COUNTRYSIDE. IT’S EXTREMELY HIGH IN PROTEIN, EASY TO DIGEST, AND LOW IN CALORIES AND CHOLESTEROL – PERFECT FOR A HEALTHY MEAL. THE CARAMELISED ONION (CIPOLLA) PROVIDES THE SWEETNESS – IDEAL TO SERVE WITH VENISON. IF YOU WANT TO AVOID SUGAR, USE A SUGAR SUBSTITUTE.

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CARAMELISED ONION

  1. First prepare the caramelised onion. Combine the balsamic vinegar, sugar and oil.
  2. Place the onion in a saucepan, pour over the vinegar mixture and cook over a low heat for about 20 minutes, until the onion pieces are soft.
  3. Smear the steaks with the mustard.
  4. Heat a griddle pan and then add the ostrich steaks.
  5. Drizzle some balsamic vinegar onto each steak.
  6. Grill the steaks for a few minutes, then turn them over. Pour in half the wine so that the steaks don’t catch on the base of the pan.
  7. Grill for another few minutes and then pour in the remaining wine to loosen the steaks.
  8. Remove the steaks from the pan but keep warm and leave to rest for 10 minutes before serving.
  9. Slice the ostrich steaks and top with the onion. Serve with Green Pepper Cups with Caprese salad (see page 71).

PORK LA COL

HAM OR PORK ON THE MENU IS A WAY OF LIFE IN SPAIN. IN TAPAS BARS AROUND THE COUNTRY, SPANIARDS DEBATE THE MERITS OF DIFFERENT BREEDS OF PIGS, WHAT THEY EAT AND THE BEST WAY OF CURING THE MEAT. APPLES PARTNER PERFECTLY WITH PORK AND HERE THEY CONTRIBUTE TO AN UNUSUAL, WARM AND DECONSTRUCTED COLESLAW. THE ADDITION OF CABBAGE (LA COL) AND CARROTS ASSISTS DIGESTION, WHILE THE COOKING PROCESS HELPS TO PRESERVE THE BETA-CAROTENE CONTENT OF THE CARROTS.

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DRESSING

  1. Preheat the oven to 190°C.
  2. Season the pork with salt and pepper, then scatter over the sage.
  3. Place the pork in a roasting dish, add the onion, water and vegetable stock, cover and roast for 2 hours.
  4. Reduce the heat to 150°C and roast for another 3 hours. Remove the pork and leave to rest for at least 10 minutes.
  5. Pull the pork apart until it is shredded.
  6. Add the cider to the cooking liquid, along with the pork. Cover and return to the oven for another 30 minutes.
  7. Preheat a griddle pan, add the oil and grill the carrots on both sides, until griddle lines appear, then set aside.
  8. Slice the baby cabbage into quarters, but keep the base of each quarter intact.
  9. Add the cabbage to the pan and grill until it starts to char. Carefully turn over and char on all sides.
  10. Add the lemon quarters and cook until charred.
  11. Sliced the apple into rounds and add to the pan.
  12. Add additional oil if necessary and grill for another few minutes. Remove the vegetables and keep warm.
  13. Combine the dressing ingredients until well mixed.
  14. Arrange the spinach leaves as a base on a serving platter, add the grilled vegetables and pour over the dressing. Season with salt if necessary.
  15. Serve alongside the pork.

LYCABETTUS LAMB CHOPS

THESE ARE LIP-SMACKINGLY DELICIOUS. LAMB CHOPS ARE NORMALLY ASSOCIATED WITH A BRAAI, BUT THIS DISH CREATES THE CRISPINESS OF BRAAIED CHOPS WITHOUT THE HASSLE AND MESS OF AN ACTUAL BRAAI. THE STICKY-SWEETNESS OF THE LAMB, COMPLEMENTED BY THE COLOURFUL PEPPERS AND CREAMY POTATOES, IS A DELIGHT FOR THE TASTE BUDS. THE DISH ALSO PROVIDES EXTRA VITAMIN C, COURTESY OF THE PEPPERS, WHILE THE POTATOES PEP UP POTASSIUM LEVELS. MOUNT LYCABETTUS IS THE LARGE HILL OVERLOOKING ATHENS WHERE SHEEP USED TO FORAGE FREELY IN EARLIER TIMES.

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  1. Preheat the oven to 180°C.
  2. Liberally season both sides of the chops with pepper.
  3. Arrange the chops and potatoes in a baking dish.
  4. Mix together the vinegar, Worcester sauce, olive oil and honey. Pour over the chops, ensuring that they’re well coated.
  5. Bake in the oven. After 30 minutes, turn the chops over and add the red and yellow peppers. Bake for another 30–45 minutes or until the fat on the chops is crispy.
  6. Best served with Mangetout Salad (see page 33).