HOW TO PLAY, LAND, AND HANDLE FISH
In all my years of bass fishing, I’ve never caught a 10-pounder, but I think I had one hooked a few years ago on a reservoir near my home. The month was March and the weather was unseasonably warm. Largemouth responded to the sudden rise in water temperature by going on a feeding spree. It was pre-spawn and the big females were roaming the banks and gorging on crawfish before moving onto their beds.
I was casting shallow rocky areas with a crankbait. I’d caught several fish, including a couple of five-pounders. Then on one cast my lure simply stopped as if it had lodged between two rocks. I held pressure on my line just to be sure and suddenly I felt movement. I set back with my rod and that’s when the fight of my fishing life started. This bass was too big to jump. Instead, she boiled on the surface and pulled like a freight train. I couldn’t gain any line. I just held on and prayed that my drag would work until this fish eventually tired so I could reel her to the side of the boat.
This battle lasted a couple of minutes; it seemed like an hour! I finally got her coming my way. I was playing her very carefully, not exerting too much pressure to break my line or pull the hooks out. Once when she cruised by the boat I got a good look at her and she was a giant! Truly, she was 10 pounds if an ounce. Then she made one more headshake and the lure popped free! I watched her slowly swim away and my heart sank as she disappeared down into the water. I’ll never forget the excitement of that fight or the gloom I felt when she got away.
“Playing” and “fighting” fish mean the same thing: using the rod to tire them out so you can land them. Beginning anglers must learn to exert just enough pressure with their tackle to wear a hooked fish down without risking breaking their line.
One of the great thrills in fishing is hooking and playing a big fish, and one of the heartbreaks is losing it! All fishermen want to catch a big one. It’s an integral part of the sport. And all fishermen taste disappointment when a lunker comes off, even when they would have released it alive if they’d landed it. Still, it’s the uncertainty of this sport that makes it exciting. If you knew you’d land every fish you hooked, fishing wouldn’t be nearly as much fun.
This isn’t to say that you shouldn’t try to land every fish you hook. You should, and this is why you need to learn proper playing, landing, and handling methods. By using the right techniques, you’ll enjoy the “thrill of victory” more often. This chapter will explain these techniques. In the following pages you’ll learn how to play a fish to keep the odds in your favor, plus how to land fish from a boat or on shore and how to handle fish both for your safety and their well-being in case you want to turn them back alive.
THE FINE ART OF “PLAYING FISH”
“Playing” fish and “fighting” fish mean the same thing. These are terms for tiring a fish out and reeling it close enough to capture. Playing small fish is easy because they don’t have as much size or fight. However, playing a big fish can be a tough head-to-head battle. If you don’t know what you’re doing, you’ll lose more of these contests than you’ll win.
Using a landing net is a safe, effective way to land fish once they have been played down. The proper technique is to hold the net just beneath the water’s surface, guide the fish over the net headfirst, then lift with the net to trap the fish inside. Never stab or swipe with a net at a fish that’s swimming by the boat.
There are two general “concepts” for playing fish. One is to play them with the main purpose of having fun, of stretching the fight out and giving the fish maximum opportunity to get away. Anglers who like to do this frequently use light or ultralight tackle because it takes more finesse to land fish with light tackle.
Because this tackle isn’t made to horse in fish you don’t have as much control over the ones you hook. You can’t power them in, so you have to wear them down more. The longer a fight lasts, the greater the odds of the fish getting away. Using light tackle gives a fish more of a sporting chance. Many anglers use light tackle because they like the challenge of playing and landing big fish with whippy rods and thin line.
The second way to play fish is with the purpose of landing them as quickly and efficiently as possible. These anglers have a saying: “You can play with them after you get them in the boat.” They are more concerned with the end result—landing fish—than how they land them. Tournament anglers or those fishing for food are more likely to use these “power” methods, which typically involve heavier tackle and stronger line.
Each angler must decide which approach he prefers. Neither is more or less acceptable than the other. They are just different playing styles for different purposes and points of view.
POINTERS FOR PLAYING FISH
Following are pointers for playing large bass, walleyes, stripers, pike, catfish, muskies, and other big fish.
Rule number one is to keep the line tight at all times. This is no problem if the fish is pulling against you. But if it’s running toward you, reel in line fast enough to keep out slack. When a fish jumps it’s easier for it to throw a lure or hook if the line is slack. Therefore, when a fish goes airborne keep the line tight to control its headshakes. Also, many expert anglers try to prevent or control jumps by keeping the rod tip low or even poking it down in the water when a fish starts up. Sometimes this downward pressure will cause the fish to turn back down.
When fighting a fish, use the bend of the rod to tire it out. Except during jumps (when you’re pointing the rod down), hold the rod or pole high with maximum bend. Many pros hold their rod high with both hands tight to their chest, which is a very strong fighting position in case a fish tries to surge away. Sometimes you can also hold a rod sideways or over your head for more leverage.
You must adjust your playing technique to the type tackle you’re using. Obviously, if you’re using light tackle, you can’t exert as much pressure on fish as you can with heavier tackle. On the other hand, if you’re fishing around thick cover (brush, weeds, standing timber, boat docks, etc.), you might have to apply maximum pressure on a fish to keep it from burrowing in and tangling your line. You should consider using heavier tackle and line when fishing around thick cover. This will allow you to apply more pressure to turn a fish away from the cover.
Many anglers prefer the challenge of fighting a fish using light tackle combined with thin line and a very flexible rod.
HANDLING FISH
If fish are to be released alive, they must be handled carefully so they can be returned to the water in good shape. (A thorough look at catch-and-release—when it’s okay to keep fish, and when they should be released alive—follows in the next chapter.)
If you intend to release a fish alive, special care must start when you’re playing it. Land the fish as soon as possible, without completely tiring it out. Total exhaustion cuts down on its chances for survival.
After landing the fish, handle it as little as possible, and put it back in the water quickly. Handling removes protective slime from the fish’s body, which increases chances for bacterial growth and eventual death. Keeping a fish out of the water too long also causes oxygen shortage, which can put the fish into shock. It’s okay to admire it briefly or snap a photo, but then place it gently back in the water in a swimming position and let it go. (Don’t flop the fish back into the water carelessly.) If the fish rolls belly up instead of swimming off, retrieve the fish and hold it right side up in the water to see if it will revive. If it swims off under its own power, it’ll probably survive. If it doesn’t swim away after a minute or two, keep the fish to eat. It’s probably been injured in the fight and will die, so keep and use the fish rather than waste it.
With really big fish, a pump-and-reel technique works well. Lift slowly and steadily with the rod to raise the fish. Then reel in line as you lower your rod back down. Do this over and over—lifting, then taking slack. Repeating this process keeps constant pressure on a fish and tires it quickly. When pumping and reeling, always keep the line tight. In this situation, slack in the line usually translates into a fish that gets away.
Probably the biggest mistake anglers make in playing fish is getting in too big a hurry. They try to reel it in too fast. If you “overplay” a fish, you risk pulling the hook out or breaking your line. Instead, unless a fish is headed into thick cover, keep steady pressure and be patient. Let the fish tire out before you attempt to land it. Simply hold onto the fish while it’s fighting, and then start reeling as it plays out.
HOW TO SET AND USE DRAG
“Drag” is an elemental concept in playing fish, and it’s one that all rod-and-reel anglers must learn to use. Basically, drag is a slip-clutch mechanism built into a reel that allows line to slip out when a pre-set amount of pressure is exerted on the line. It is a safeguard against pulling so hard against a fighting fish that you break your line. Drag settings are adjustable, and drag should be set at some point below the break strength of the line you’re using. Then, when a fish applies this amount of pull, the drag will slip and give line rather than allowing pressure to build to the breaking point.
Let’s apply this to a practical fishing situation. Say you’re using 8-pound-test line. You might set your drag to slip when six pounds of pressure is applied to the line. Then, if you hook a big fish and it makes a strong run, the drag will give before the line snaps. As the fish tires and stops pulling drag, you can reel in line and land the fish.
When a fish is pulling out drag, don’t continue turning the reel handle, since this causes line twist in the reel. Instead, hold the reel handle steady until the fish stops running or until it turns back toward you. Then begin reeling again to keep tension on the line as you play the fish.
TWO METHODS FOR SETTING DRAG
Setting the proper amount of drag can be a complicated process. Several factors go into knowing how much drag is just right. Strength of the line, weight and strength of the fish, how much line is out, and the amount of line on the reel spool all affect how much drag is needed. Also, conditions that determine the optimum drag setting can change rapidly when fighting a fish toward you.
Obviously, you won’t know these variables before you start fishing, so drag must be pre-set according to the “best guess” method. Many fishing experts set drag to give at half the rated break strength of the line. For instance, for 6-pound-test line, set the drag to slip at about three pounds of pressure. This might be slightly on the light side, but it provides a good margin for error.
The first method for setting drag is more precise than the second, but it takes more effort. Tie one end of a small fish-weighing scale to an unmovable object such as a tree or post. Then tie your fishing line to the other end. Disengage the reel spool or trip the bail and back away approximately 20 yards. Then re-engage the spool or bail. Hold the rod at a 90-degree angle to the scale (just as if you’re fighting a fish), and reel the line tight. Then start pulling the line with the rod while adjusting the drag setting. Have a friend watch the scale and tell you when you’re pulling out the desired amount of pressure. Adjust the drag so it slips at this weight. Then it’s properly set.
Bass don’t have teeth, so they can be held and lifted by the lower jaw. Insert your thumb in a bass’ mouth, clamp the lower jaw between your thumb and forefinger, and lift the fish from the water.
Anglers handling catfish should be careful of these fish’s sharp dorsal spine. A moment of carelessness can lead to a painful puncture wound in the hand.
The other method for setting drag, the one used by most fishermen, is the “feels-right” method. You simply run the line through the rod guides. Then hold the rod handle with one hand and pull the line off the reel with the other. Adjust the drag setting to slip before the line snaps. This feels-right method of setting drag isn’t nearly as accurate as using the scale, but it’s much faster.
Also, remember that you can readjust drag setting whenever you wish while actually fighting a fish. Baitcasting and spincast reels have star- or dial-drag adjustments next to the reel handle that can be tightened or loosened as desired. Spinning reels have knobs either on the front of the spool or behind the gearbox that can be turned to tighten or loosen drag as desired.
Many anglers enjoy reliving their fishing memories through taxidermy mounts. Possibly the best option for this is to have your taxidermist do a replica mount. When you boat a trophy fish, quickly measure its length (nose to tail) and girth (around the body behind the gills and behind the dorsal fin. Next, take a close-up photo of the fish and release it alive. A good taxidermist can take your measurements and photo and make an exact replica of the fish, and it will live to spawn—and perhaps thrill some other angler—another day.
Still, if you prefer to have the fish mounted, here’s how to handle it:
First, take a close-up photo to serve as a reference for painting. Next, wrap the fish in a wet towel or newspapers and place it in a shady, out-of-the-way spot. Don’t put the fish on a stringer or in a cooler where scales might be knocked off.
When you get home, lay the fish on a small plywood board. Wrap it in several layers of plastic wrap and seal it in a plastic garbage bag. Then deposit the fish in the freezer until it can be transported to the taxidermist. The board will protect the tail and fins from accidental breakage and the plastic wrapping will prevent freezer burn. With careful handling, your mount is more likely to return looking alive and natural, providing many pleasant memories in the years to come.
Drags have a tendency to stick when reels haven’t been used for a long time. When storing your reel, adjust the drag to a very loose setting. Then reset and test drag before each new fishing trip. When working properly, drag will yield line smoothly instead of in spurts. Overall, knowing how to use drag properly is a mark of an accomplished fisherman. Proper use of drag will allow you to catch many more fish in the course of your angling career.
HOW TO LAND FISH
Landing a fish is the end result of playing it. This is the actual capture, when you net, grab, or beach a fish. Landing is easy if you know what you’re doing. Regardless of where or how you’re fishing, make sure the fish is tired out before trying to land it. Too many anglers try to land fish while they are “green” (that is, they still have some fight left), and the fish escapes in a last-ditch lunge. So play a fish down to the point where it’s easier to handle. (An exception to this rule is when you intend to release the fish alive.)
If you’re fishing from the bank, and the bank slopes gently into the water, simply drag the fish onto land. If the bank is steep, or if you’re fishing from a boat, lift the fish out of the water with your rod or pole. To do this, however, you must be using line that has a higher pound-test rating than the weight of the fish. If you try to lift a 6-pound bass with four-pound test line, the line will break.
When beaching or lifting a fish, it helps to have the fish’s momentum going in the direction you’re trying to move it. If the fish is swimming you can steer it up on the bank or into shallow water where you can grab it. I once used this method to beach a 25-pound pike that I’d hooked on light spinning tackle and 8-pound-test line.
Nets are great for landing fish from the bank, from a boat, or when wading. The netting procedure is always the same. After the fish is played down and under control, lift its head out of the water with gentle rod pressure. Then lead the fish headfirst into a stationary net held just below the water’s surface. When the fish is in or over the net, lift up. Never chase or stab at a fish with a landing net and never attempt to net a fish tail-first. Both mistakes will cause you to lose many fish.
A third common way to land fish is by hand. In doing so, you must be extremely careful. Sharp fins, teeth, spines, and gill plates can inflict painful injuries. Also, if a fish isn’t played down, an ill-timed headshake can embed loose hooks in your hand.
There are two ways to land fish by hand. Species that don’t have teeth (bass, stripers, crappies, etc.) can be grabbed and lifted by the lower jaw. To do this, reel the fish up close and lift its head out of the water with rod pressure. Then stick your thumb in the fish’s mouth, clamp the lower jaw between your thumb and forefinger, and lift the fish from the water.
Species that do have teeth (pike, walleyes, muskie) should be grabbed across the back, pinching firmly on both gill plates. They may also be lifted by placing a hand under the belly. In either case, the fish must be played down fully before you attempt to land it.
Many anglers also land fish by inserting their fingers into the gills or by squeezing thumb and forefinger into the fish’s eye sockets. These methods work, but they are not recommended. Some species have very sharp gill plates that can inflict a nasty cut if the fish flops. Also, if a fish is to be released alive, its gills or eyes can be damaged by such rough treatment.
Ethics & Etiquette
Obey all boating laws.
These laws are designed to protect you and other boaters. Observe “no wake” zones and practice common courtesy by not running your boat too close to a stationary boat or to anglers fishing from the bank.