Once again, pearled spelt is very much the hero of this chapter. Wonderfully absorbent, it soaks up the juices of anything you pair it with, whether it is Lamb Shanks with Pearled Spelt (see page 128), Lemon & Almond Cod with Spelt & Asparagus (see page 143) or Speltotto (see page 136), a wonderful invention where the grain takes on the creamy consistency of risotto rice.
There are other Italian-inspired favourites too, such as Gnocchi with Walnut & Basil Pesto (see page 144), and Pork & Fennel Meatballs in Tomato Sauce with Spaghetti (see page 131). But there’s nothing to beat a good home-grown traditional English recipe, and what can come closer to Sharpham Park than Venison Wellington (see page 134)? I like to imagine the red deer grazing the forests and fields in the thirteenth century, brought to the table after an energetic day’s hunting. In this recipe you can use either a whole fillet or tenderloin of venison – either way it’s the healthiest of meats. Wrap it in a spelt pancake, roll it in puff pastry, and you have a feast fit for a king, or should I say an abbot?
The only time I was ever lampooned in Private Eye magazine (thank goodness!) was with a quote taken from our then current Mulberry Home brochure: ‘To the British, the dining room is far more than a mere accessory to the kitchen, it is a theatre of extravagance!’ I’d like to think that the British have got better and better at creating great food, not just great theatre. And spelt certainly deserves star billing.