1 July

I love markets. Not the touristy belts-and-baubles kind, but genuine food markets such as the one we have in San Cisterno. People who shop at markets care about their food. They want to squeeze their plums, sniff their fish, prod their poultry and, most importantly, connect with the person selling it. A market stallholder will have very definite ideas about the best way of cooking their produce. These ideas are often wrong but nonetheless firmly held. And it’s not just the quality of what’s being sold. Even the courtesy and personal attention is something to be savoured. ‘Buongiorno, signora, come sta?’ I still tingle every time I hear this. The closest many of us get to a social exchange in the supermarket is ‘Any cash out?’ Give me markets any day.

The house behind us is occupied by Alphonse ‘Nonno’ Giancardi. Nonno is eighty-six but he continues to live at home, cooking and cleaning for himself. What’s more, he still has an eye for the ladies (a tendency currently being kept in check via regular medication). For weeks now we’ve been meaning to invite Alphonse over for lunch and today seemed like the perfect opportunity. The Pasquinis also joined us for a delightfully relaxing afternoon. Dining with Italian friends is quite an experience. They eat with such gusto, it’s a joy to behold. And meals are made to be lingered over. In some parts of Tuscany the traditional Sunday lunch quite often extends until well after dark on Tuesday. La dolce vita!

Despite his age, Nonno still chops his own wood, trims the grapevines and, on Sunday afternoons, even goes rabbit shooting. During this period we’ve been advised to either stay indoors or wear something bright and bullet-proof.