Shrubs, as discussed in this chapter, are woody perennial plants that, when selected well, make the landscape. Shrubs are used to provide background, points of interest, accents for important places, framing for a particular view, foreground, and generally to develop a picture that says, “Here is where I live.” There is a bewildering array of shrubs, and they range from flowering deciduous types to evergreens, in many shapes and colors, and in many mature sizes. Some types of shrubs have so many excellent members and relatives that they deserve a chapter of their own, so we’ve done that for rhododendrons and azaleas, as well as roses. Some shrubs grow to such size that they become trees, and though the distinction between a tall shrub and a small tree is one of semantics, the differences are still important.
Generally, a shrub could be defined as a woody plant that may have multiple trunks and will not grow more than twenty feet high. A tree will generally have a single trunk and might attain great height. The varied sizes and shapes of the plants included in the shrub category give the gardener and landscaper a wealth of resources upon which to draw when making his or her environment more livable. You will find some small trees in this chapter in appropriate lists, as you will find some shrubs listed with the trees.
“Select your plants based on what they will do. Knowing which role the plant is to play is like knowing which piece of furniture you need for your living room. Information as to the size, shape, fabric, colors, and textures determines the final choice. The goal is a good, unified composition. Plants grow, so learn about the ‘ten-year size,’ their soil and exposure preferences, and their hardiness, so your choices will satisfy rather than frustrate. Plants are beguiling! If you haven’t described what you need before you shop, you’re likely to come home with the ‘and where should I put this?’ plant.”—Myrna Dowsett, Landscape Designer, Portland, Oregon
The list here is short, for most shade-preferring plants rely on their many leaves to pick up any stray rays of light, and few seem to want to sacrifice any green color for variegation. However, here are some that will fit most shade situations. Use them to lighten a dark, shady area (also check the “Attractive or Unusual Foliage” list in the chapter on rhododendrons and the “For Shady Sites” list in the chapter on herbaceous perennials).
Marlberry (Ardisia japonica) |
C, LV |
Variegated aucuba (Aucuba japonica vars.) |
C, LV, LM |
Japanese aralia (Fatsia japonica) |
C, LV, LM |
Drooping leucothoe (Leucothoe fontanesiana ‘Rainbow’) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Fringe flower (Loropetalum chinense ‘Rubrum’) |
C, LV |
Dwarf ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius ‘Darts Gold’) |
All PNW |
Variegated weigela (Weigela florida ‘Variegata’) |
All PNW |
A rock garden provides a planting situation that combines plants and stones in a manner that gives the viewer appreciation of both. Plants must be selected carefully to fit the scale of the garden, enhance the colors and shapes of rocks and other groundcovers, and provide interest, both in growth manner and in flower or fruit. Many of the dwarf shrubs can be used in a rockery, depending on the exposure to sun, shade, and other factors that influence their growth. Here are a few to start you thinking in terms of using plants with rocks, to make your landscape interesting and inviting. Some of these may need annual pruning to keep them in bounds for a small-scale rockery setting.
Bog rosemary (Andromeda polifolia vars.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Irwins dwarf barberry (Berberis stenophylla ‘Irwinii’) |
All PNW |
Rosemary barberry (Berberis stenophylla ‘Nana compacta’) |
All PNW |
Crimson pygmy barberry (Berberis thunbergii ‘Crimson Pygmy’) |
All PNW |
Dwarf birch (Betula nana) |
All PNW |
Pyrenees cotoneaster (Cotoneaster congestus) |
All PNW |
Garland daphne (Daphne cneorum vars.) |
C, LV, LM |
Heathers (Erica spp.) |
C, LV, LM |
Dwarf forsythia (Forsythia virdissima ‘Bronxensis’) |
All PNW |
Salal (Gaultheria shallon) |
C, LV, LM |
Japanese holly (Ilex crenata vars.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Blue Chip juniper (Juniperus horizontalis ‘Blue Chip’) |
All PNW |
Blue Star juniper (Juniperus squamata ‘Blue Star’) |
All PNW |
Compact Oregon grape (Mahonia aquifolium ‘compacta’) |
All PNW |
Dwarf nandina (Nandina domestica vars.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Dwarf Japanese pieris (Pieris japonica yakusimana) |
All PNW |
Mugo pine (Pinus mugo mugo) |
All PNW |
Dwarf white pine (Pinus strobus ‘Nana’) |
All PNW |
Impeditum rhododendron (Rhododendron impeditum) |
All PNW |
Alpine spirea (Spiraea japonica ‘Alpina’) |
All PNW |
Germander (Teucrium chamaedrys) |
All PNW |
Dwarf European cranberry bush (Viburnum opulus ‘Nanum’) |
All PNW |
What would a rock garden be without conifers, especially dwarf types that hold their form, shape, and color for such a long time without overgrowing the special garden? Here are some of the newer and more colorful additions that could be made to your landscape via the rock garden.
Dwarf Korean fir (Abies koreana ‘Silberkugel’) |
All PNW |
Pygmy deodor cedar (Cedrus deodora ‘Pygmea’) |
C, LV, LM |
Hage hinoki cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Hage’) |
All PNW |
Golden Sprite false cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Golden Sprite’) |
All PNW |
Tennis ball false cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa juniperoides ‘Gnome’) |
All PNW |
Tsukumo false cypress (Chamaecyparis pisifera ‘Tsukumo’) |
All PNW |
Dwarf Little Gem spruce (Picea abies ‘Little Gem’) |
All PNW |
Dwarf Serbian spruce (Picea omorika ‘Pimoko’) |
All PNW |
Mitch’s dwarf mugo (Pinus mugo ‘Mitch’s Mini’) |
All PNW |
Dwarf Japanese white pine (Pinus parviflora ‘Hago Rumo’) |
All PNW |
Gregg’s white pine (Pinus strobus ‘Gregg’) |
All PNW |
Dwarf Scots pine (Pinus sylvestris ‘Little Brolley’) |
All PNW |
Little Joe dwarf Canadian hemlock (Tsuga canadensis ‘Little Joe’) |
All PNW |
“Any time that you deal with conifers, you have a year-around situation. Conifers provide color, shape, and interest that varies through the seasons of the gardening year. Although the dwarf types listed above are noted for their compact and small size, know that they will enlarge as time passes. Know what your garden size will accept, and plant accordingly.”—Don Howse, Porterhowse Nursery, Sandy, Oregon
Shrubs that grow into tidy mounds are great for the low maintenance yard, if they are properly chosen for mature size and planted to fit their space. Some plants seem to grow with indeterminate abandon, on their way upward and outward, until they reach their mature size and shape. Others, like the ones listed below, are much more careful about their looks and most always present to the viewer a picture of good behavior. Add to this list, for it will be valuable to you later in your landscape management activity as you search for the precise plant for the select place.
Heather (Erica spp.) |
C, LV, LM |
Apache plume (Fallugia paradoxa) |
All PNW |
Woadwaxen (Genista spp.) |
All PNW |
Dwarf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Pia’) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Dwarf Kalmia (Kalmia latifolia ‘Elf’) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Lavender (Lavandula spp.) |
All PNW |
Mugo pine (Pinus mugo mugo) |
All PNW |
Dwarf white pine (Pinus strobus ‘Nana’) |
All PNW |
Coles Prostrate hemlock (Tsuga canadensis ‘Coles Prostrate’) |
All PNW |
Many of the soil types in the western part of the Pacific Northwest are of silt and clay and often overlay heavier textured clay soils. Thus, unless one chooses carefully, the plants placed with loving care may succumb to too much water and not enough oxygen during the normal nine-month wet winter. However, some plants have shallow enough roots, or may have other ways of obtaining oxygen during wet months and so will grow and thrive in those planting situations. A wet spot in the landscape will give you a chance to try some of these that we feel are good candidates for wet soils.
Brilliant red chokecherry (Aronia arbutifolia ‘Brilliantissima’) |
All PNW |
Spice bush (Calycanthus occidentalis) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Red osier dogwood (Cornus stolonifera) |
All PNW |
Flowering quince (Chaenomeles spp.) |
All PNW |
Bog laurel (Kalmia polifolia) |
C, LV, LM |
Sierra laurel (Leucothoe davisiae) |
All PNW |
Drooping leucothoe (Leucothoe fontanesiana) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Common privet (Ligustrum vulgare) |
All PNW |
Rose gold pussy willow (Salix gracilistyla) |
All PNW |
Dwarf purple osier willow (Salix purpurea ‘Gracilis’) |
All PNW |
Spirea (Spiraea spp.) |
All PNW |
If you are unsure about the drainage capability of the soils in your landscape, perform a simple percolation test and find out if plants that demand well-drained soils would survive. Dig a small hole a foot deep and fill it with water. If the water drains out within several hours, you are blessed with a soil with relatively good drainage. If the water remains in the hole for more than twenty-four hours you should select some of the plants listed above.
The Master Gardener class in Roseburg was asked to list their favorites and the list below is their contribution to this book. Roseburg is in the area that we have arbitrarily called Dry Valley (DV) in our zone information. Soils are variable, often heavy with some drainage problems. The weather is generally warmer than the Willamette Valley of Oregon and somewhat drier.
Viburnum opulus
Glossy abelia (Abelia grandiflora)
Red-twig dogwood (Cornus stolonifera)
Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus)
Japanese rose (Kerria japonica)
Azaleas (Rhododendron spp.)
Rhododendrons (Rhododendron spp.)
Spirea (Spiraea spp.)
Common snowball (Viburnum opulus ‘Roseum’)
“One of our favorite shrubs that highlights our garden in late July and early August is a beautiful white Rose of Sharon. It grows well in Douglas County and withstands the summer heat.”—Emogene Atherton. “Prior to World War II, Douglas County was noted for its prunes, melons, walnuts, and winter broccoli, but now most of the prune orchards have been pulled out, the dryers taken down, much of the agriculture land has been covered with homes and/or industry.”—Clint Atherton, Master Gardeners, Roseburg, Oregon
Plants that will attract wild things include those that can be used for nesting sites, that may provide food or shelter, that may provide any of the living needs of an animal, be it bird or four-legged critter. (Also check the naturescaping list in the chapter on trees.)
Currant
Japanese aucuba (Aucuba japonica vars.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Barberry (Berberis spp.) |
All PNW |
Butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii) |
All PNW |
Beautyberry (Callicarpa spp.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Santa Barbara ceanothus (Ceanothus impressus) |
C, LM |
Blue blossom ceanothus (Ceanothus thyrsiflorus) |
LV, LM, DV, HD |
Flowering quince (Chaenomeles spp.) |
All PNW |
Parney cotoneaster (Cotoneaster lacteus) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Rockspray cotoneaster (Cotoneaster microphyllus) |
C, LV, LM |
February daphne (Daphne mezereum) |
All PNW |
Winged euonymus (Euonymus alata) |
All PNW |
Salal (Gaultheria shallon) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Holly (Ilex spp.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Holly (Ilex aquifolium) |
C, LV, LM |
Box honeysuckle (Lonicera nitida) |
All PNW |
Oregon grape (Mahonia aquifolium) |
All PNW |
Pernettya (Pernettya mucronata) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Mock orange (Philadelphus lewisii) |
All PNW |
Firethorn (Pyracantha coccinea) |
All PNW |
Flowering currant (Ribes sanguineum) |
All PNW |
Skimmia (Skimmia japonica) |
C, LV, LM |
Lilac (Syringa spp.) |
All PNW |
Red huckleberry (Vaccinium parvifolium) |
C, LV, LM |
Viburnum (Viburnum selected species) |
Varies |
Remember that diversity is the key: diversity of plant species will attract a diversity of animal species. Think of diversity also when it comes to the spacing of your plantings; you will want some close together and some farther apart. Structural diversity, the layer height of the plantings, is also important, providing a myriad of food and cover possibilities with groundcovers, flowers, low and high shrubs and finally, trees.—Naturescaping, Oregon Department of Fish & Wildlife
Problem situations exist in any landscaping job and may require a special sort of plant to fit a special sort of site. Let’s say you have a north-facing slope, which means you have a lot of shade, and if it has no source of moisture you could also call it a dry-bank microclimate. Well, here are a few ideas that might help to fill that site—give them a try.
Rosemary barberry (Berberis stenophylla) |
LV, LM, DV, HD |
Blue blossom ceanothus (Ceanothus thyrsiflorus) |
LV, LM, DV, HD |
Deutzia (Deutzia spp.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
St. Johnswort (Hypericum spp.) |
C, LV, LM |
Japanese holly (Ilex crenata) |
All PNW |
Yaupon holly (Ilex vomitoria) |
All PNW |
Salal (Gaultheria shallon) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Oregon grape (Mahonia aquifolium) |
All PNW |
Leatherleaf viburnum (Viburnum rhytidophyllum) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Laurustinus (Viburnum tinus) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Periwinkle (Vinca major, Vinca minor) |
C, LV, LM |
Plants that can survive in this sort of locale are those that prefer full open sunlight, are tolerant to heat and possible drought during the summer. In the juniper and cotoneaster groups are many species that will fit this situation; however we list the genus for your guidance.
Rockrose (Cistus cobariensis) |
LV, LM, DV, HD |
Parney cotoneaster (Cotoneaster parneyii) |
All PNW |
Juniper (Juniperus spp.) |
All PNW |
Photinia (Photinia fraserii) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Firethorn (Pyracantha coccinea) |
All PNW |
Rugosa rose (Rosa rugosa) |
LV, LM, DV, HD |
Yucca (Yucca filamentosa) |
LV, LM, DV, HD |
“Because of the relatively dry nature of the West in general, we gardeners will be less frustrated over the long run if we plant less thirsty plants. All plants need watering during dry spells until they are well established—from one to three years.”—Josephine County Master Gardeners, Grants Pass, Oregon
These are the old faithfuls. Our grandmothers’ gardens consisted of some of these plants that to this day remain reliable providing color, background, cuttings, accent, or flowers. Also check the list for shrubs valued for arrangements, for many of them would be included in yesterday’s garden. Many are resistant to various diseases (which is why a lot of them made it to this list).
“I was raised in Nebraska. Many of the landscapes in the Midwest have the same old-fashioned shrubs that were carried to the Pacific Northwest by our pioneers. Those that have remained are those that are tolerant of our growing conditions, or are resistant to diseases and insect attacks that are common to our area. Outside of pruning for control of their growth, most were easily cultured and became a part of the Pacific Northwest landscape environment.”—Master Gardener Marje Luce and her gardening cat, Igor, Ashland, Oregon
Plants that supply fragrance as well as beauty and interest bring another dimension to the garden. Fragrance may be strong, as in Daphne odora or Korean spice viburnum, or it may be fleeting as in Mollis azalea or Genista broom. Also, sensitivity to fragrance varies from one gardener to another as will likes and dislikes for plants that provide fragrance. Myrna Dowsett, landscape designer, says this about Somerset daphne: “put this under the bedroom window for fragrance!” And you will notice at least four viburnums on this list. Use this list to investigate the plants and see if they and their fragrances will fill a need in your garden.
Winter Honeysuckle
Glossy abelia (Abelia grandiflora) |
C, LV, DV |
Fountain butterfly bush (Buddleia alternifolia) |
All PNW |
Summer lilac (Buddleia davidii) |
All PNW |
Carolina allspice (Calycanthus floridus) |
All PNW |
Spice bush (Calycanthus occidentalis) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Bush anemone (Carpenteria californica) |
C |
Wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) |
C, LV |
Mexican orange (Choisya ternata) |
C, LV, LM |
Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Winter hazel (Corylopsis spp.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Daphne (Daphne spp.) |
Varies |
Somerset daphne (Daphne burkwoodii) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Spurge laurel (Daphne laureola) |
C, LV, LM |
Ebbinge’s silverberry (Elaeagnus ebbingei) |
C, LV |
Fothergilla (Fothergilla major) |
C, LV |
Broom (Genista pilosa, G. spachiana) |
C, LV, LM |
Witch hazel (Hamamelis intermedia, H. mollis) |
C, LV, LM |
Pink jasmine (Jasminum polyanthum) |
C |
Lavender (Lavandula spp.) |
C, LV, LM |
Privet honeysuckle (Lonicera pileata) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Winter honeysuckle (Lonicera fragrantissima) |
All PNW |
Chilean myrtle (Luma apiculata) |
C |
Star magnolia (Magnolia stellata) |
All PNW |
Orange jessamine (Murraya exotica) |
C |
Osmanthus (Osmanthus spp.) |
C, LV, LM |
Sweet mock orange (Philadelphus coronarius ‘Aureus’) |
All PNW |
Mock orange (Philadelphus virginalis ‘Minnesota Snowflake’) |
All PNW |
Pittosporum (Pittosporum tobira) |
C, LV, LM |
Flowering currant (Ribes odoratum) |
All PNW |
Sarcococca (Sarcococca spp.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Lilac (Syringa spp.) |
All PNW |
Viburnum (Viburnum bodnantense) |
C, LV, LM |
Korean spice viburnum (Viburnum carlesii) |
All PNW |
Fragrant snowball (Viburnum carlcephalum) |
All PNW |
Fragrant viburnum (Viburnum farreri) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
It’s not highly likely, but some shrubs can seed themselves copiously enough to overrun an area, and that is the reason for this list. Some plants, particularly some of the borderline sorts, that might not be top choices in the first place, can become problems. Here are a few.
Flowering quince (Chaenomeles vars.) |
All PNW |
Sweet fern (Comptonia asplenifolia) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Scotch broom (Cytisus scoparius) |
C, LV, LM |
English holly (Ilex aquifolium) |
C, LV, LM |
Privet honeysuckle (Lonicera pileata) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Oregon grape (Mahonia aquifolium) |
All PNW |
Pernettya (Pernettya mucronata) |
C, LV, LM |
Japanese knotweed (Polygonum spp.) |
All PNW |
Staghorn sumac (Rhus typhina) |
All PNW |
Red flowering currant (Ribes sanguineum) |
C, LV, LM |
Box blueberry (Vaccinium ovatum) |
C |
There invariably is a place in the landscape that is just too narrow for a “normal-sized” shrub to fit, but where you would dearly love to see some sort of plant accentuate the landscape. Alongside a wall or between a driveway and a sidewalk are givens, but these sorts of places can also include an inside corner where walls meet, or a place in the landscape where you need to tell people that something happens there. Anyway, here are a few slender-shaped plants that might just fill the bill.
Graham Blandy boxwood (Buxus sempervirens ‘Graham Blandy’) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Sekkan-sugi Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria japonica ‘Sekkan-sugi’) |
C, LV, LM |
Redvein enkianthus (Enkianthus spp.) |
C, LV, LM |
Hetzi columnar juniper (Juniperus chinensis ‘Hetzi Columnaris’) |
All PNW |
Spearmint juniper (J. chinensis ‘Spearmint’) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Irish juniper (J. chinensis ‘Stricta’) |
All PNW |
Wintergreen juniper (J. chinensis ‘Wintergreen’) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Blue haven juniper (Juniperus scopulorum ‘Blue Haven’) |
All PNW |
Skyrocket red cedar (Juniperus virginiana ‘Skyrocket’) |
All PNW |
Oregon grape (Mahonia aquifolium) |
All PNW |
Leatherleaf mahonia (Mahonia bealei) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Dwarf Alberta spruce (Picea glauca ‘Conica’) |
All PNW |
Colorado spruce (Picea pungens ‘Iseli fastigiate’) |
All PNW |
Indian hawthorn (Raphiolepis indica) |
C, LV, LM |
Irish yew (Taxus baccata ‘Fastigiata’) |
C, LV, LM |
Gold Irish yew (Taxus baccata ‘Fastigiata Aurea’) |
C, LV, LM |
DeGroot’s Spire Am. arborvitae (Thuja accidentalis ‘DeGroot’s Spire’) |
All PNW |
Pyramidal arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis ‘Pyramidalis’) |
All PNW |
Emerald green arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis ‘Smaragd’) |
All PNW |
All plants need sunlight to grow and to bloom. However, there are some that either prefer less than full sunlight or will tolerate some shade and may look even better when grown in shaded locations. The plants listed below will do well in the summer shade of big-leaf maples or scattered in the dense shade of Douglas firs. Don’t forget to water them a little extra in those locations, as the trees that are giving the shade will also take most of the water and minerals.
February Daphne
Barberry (Berberis thunbergii ‘Aurea’) |
All PNW |
Carolina allspice (Calycanthus floridus) |
All PNW |
Camellia (Camellia spp.) |
C, LV, LM |
Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Cleyera (Cleyera japonica) |
C, LV, LM |
Winter hazel (Corylopsis spp.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
February daphne (Daphne mezereum) |
All PNW |
Spurge laurel (Daphne laureola) |
C, LV, LM |
Winter daphne (Daphne odora ‘Marginata’) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Redvein enkianthus (Enkianthus spp.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Dwarf fothergilla (Fothergilla gardenii) |
C, LV, LM |
Fuchsia (Fuchsia hybrida) |
C, LV, LM |
Bigleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Mountain laurel (Kalmia latifolia vars.) |
All PNW |
Japanese rose (Kerria japonica) |
All PNW |
Drooping leucothoe (Leucothoe fontanesiana) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Oregon grape (Mahonia aquifolium) |
All PNW |
Leatherleaf mahonia (Mahonia bealei) |
All PNW |
Burmese mahonia (Mahonia lomariifolia) |
C, LV, LM |
Osmanthus (Osmanthus spp.) |
C, LV, LM |
Lily-of-the-valley shrub (Pieris japonica vars.) |
All PNW |
Pittosporum (Pittosporum tobira) |
C, LV |
Sarcococca (Sarcococca spp.) |
C, LV, LM |
Red huckleberry (Vaccinium parvifolium) |
C, LV, LM |
Korean spice viburnum (Viburnum carlesii) |
All PNW |
Nannyberry (Viburnum lentago) |
All PNW |
This is a list you should carry forever in your gardening apron! Shade is a valued item in landscapes in the eastern part of the PNW region. In the western half of the region shade is a given, for once the trees are established, they proceed to do what they were designed to do—give shade. In both areas it is nice when we have other plants that will survive, and perhaps even thrive, in the shade. Here are some of the better types of shrubs that we think will fill the bill in the shade, so give them a try.
“Although it may be frustrating to see all the plants you can’t grow in the shade, there are many beautilul ones that can . . . and on a hot summer’s day there’s nothing like a cool shady garden! Be careful to notice the degree of shade in various parts of your garden (and the possibility of this changing as trees in the area grow).”—Ray and Peg Prag, Forest Farm, Williams, Oregon
Some of the newer hybrid woody ornamental shrubs appearing at retail garden centers have as one of their attributes foliage that is brightly colored when it first appears. Shades of red, pink, and gold are now seen in spring gardens where some of the following shrubs are being used. Let them help you brighten an otherwise less-than-exciting place in your landscape.
Prostrate white abelia (Abelia grandiflora ‘Prostrata’) |
C, LV, DV |
Japanese maple (Acer palmatum vars.) |
All PNW |
Dwarf box-leafed barberry (Berberis buxifolia ‘Nana’) |
All PNW |
Golden Japanese barberry (Berberis thunbergii ‘Aurea’) |
All PNW |
Beautyberry (Callicarpa bodinieri ‘Profusion’) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Scotch heather (Calluna vulgaris vars.) |
C, LV, LM |
Heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica vars.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Fraser’s red-tip photinia (Photinia fraseri) |
C, LV, LM |
Japanese photinia (Photinia glabra) |
C, LV, LM |
Forest Flame pieris (Pieris hybrid ‘Forest Flame’) |
All PNW |
Mountain Fire pieris (Pieris japonica ‘Mountain Fire’) |
All PNW |
Valley Rose pieris (Pieris japonica ‘Valley Rose’) |
All PNW |
Valley Valentine pieris (Pieris japonica ‘Valley Valentine’) |
All PNW |
Froebel spirea (Spiraea bumalda ‘Froebelii’) |
All PNW |
Goldflame spirea (Spiraea bumalda ‘Goldflame’) |
All PNW |
Goldmound spirea (Spiraea bumalda ‘Goldmound’) |
All PNW |
Limemound spirea (Spiraea bumalda ‘Limemound’) |
All PNW |
Particularly in the eastern part of the Pacific Northwest, gardeners must either plan to water regularly and frequently, or use plants that will withstand dry conditions. However, even in the wetter part of the Pacific Northwest, when the rain ceases in late spring, gardeners must plan for a dry summer growing season. With the climate in mind, you plan accordingly. You will often find that after the first couple of growing summers, the more mature a plant becomes, the better it is able to withstand drought conditions, at least for a moderate period of time. However, even if you live in a fairly damp area, your landscape or yard may have dry “islands.” It is for those places that this list was developed.
Strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Manzanita (Arctostaphylos spp. and vars.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Barberry (Berberis spp.) |
All PNW |
Butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii) |
All PNW |
Bush anemone (Carpenteria californica) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Concha wild lilac (Ceanothus ‘Concha’) |
C, LV, LM |
Frosty Blue wild lilac (Ceanothus ‘Frosty Blue’) |
C, LV, LM |
Flowering quince (Chaenomeles japonica) |
All PNW |
Rockrose (Cistus spp.) |
LM, DV |
Warminster broom (Cytisus praecox) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Silverberry (Elaeagnus pungens vars.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Golden silverberry (Elaeagnus pungens ‘Maculata’) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Broom (Genista spp.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) |
All PNW |
Juniper (Juniperus spp. and vars.) |
All PNW |
Heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica vars.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Photinia (Photinia spp.) |
C, LV, LM |
Cinquefoil (Potentilla fruticosa vars.) |
All PNW |
Firethorn (Pyracantha coccinea vars.) |
All PNW |
Fragrant sumac (Rhus aromatica) |
DV, HD |
Smooth sumac (Rhus glabra) |
All PNW |
Staghorn sumac (Rhus typhina) |
All PNW |
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Yucca (Yucca spp.) |
All PNW |
“Cistus thrives in light, well-drained soil, full sun, and is drought tolerant when established. The name “rockrose” comes from the highly visible one- to five-inch crepelike flowers with yellow/gold stamens that recur throughout the summer and into early autumn.”—Maurice Horn, partner-owner, Joy Creek Nursery, Scappoose, Oregon
Shrubs with large, attractive leaves or odd branching habits are an immediate attraction. They can work as accent plants, or to draw a person into the landscape. The same effect can be achieved by using shade trees with interesting bark or trunk character, so check that list in the shade tree chapter.
Shrubs with long-lasting flower color are like beacons in the landscape. The length of time that blooms remain on a plant will depend greatly on the local weather. In spring seasons that remain humid and cool for three or more months, many of the spring bloomers will hold their blossoms and continue to give their beauty to the landscape. Also, check the rhododendron chapter and the rose chapter for other bloomers that last for long periods. There are not very many that fit the general category (that will remain for a month or so in spite of the weather), but here are a few that will give you a start on your list.
Glossy abelia (Abelia grandiflora vars.) |
C, LV, DV |
Butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii vars.) |
All PNW |
Sasanqua camellia (Camellia sasanqua) |
C, LV, LM |
Japanese flowering quince (Chaenomeles japonica) |
All PNW |
Rockrose (Cistus spp.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Daphne (Daphne odora) |
C, LV, LM |
Hardy fuchsia (Fuchsia magellanica) |
C, LV, LM |
Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) |
All PNW |
Hydrangea (Hydrangea spp.) |
All PNW |
Showy jasmine (Jasminium floridum) |
C, LV, LM |
Mountain laurel (Kalmia latifolia) |
All PNW |
Japanese rose (Kerria japonica) |
All PNW |
Crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica vars.) |
C, LV, LM |
Lavender (Lavandula spp.) |
All PNW |
Sweet olive (Osmanthus fragrans) |
C, LV, LM |
Lily-of-the-valley shrub (Pieris spp.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Cinquefoil (Potentilla fruticosa vars.) |
All PNW |
Indian hawthorn (Raphiolepis indica) |
C, LV, LM |
Laurustinus (Viburnum tinus vars.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Weigela (Wiegela florida vars.) |
All PNW |
Landscapes designed with a formal scheme may require some very low-growing, neatly trimmed hedges. For this you must select the plants that will withstand the constant trimming and also those that grow slowly enough that trimming is not a chore. Some of the neatest low hedges can be found at the Japanese Garden in Portland, where one of the finest is a hedge of low-growing evergreen azaleas.
Crimson pygmy barberry (Berberis thunbergii ‘Crimson Pygmy’)* |
All PNW |
Little leaf box (Buxus microphylla ‘Morris Midget’) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Dwarf Korean box (Buxus sinica var. insularis) |
All PNW |
Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta ‘Dwarf Burford’) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Dwarf Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta ‘Rotunda’) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Japanese holly (Ilex crenata ‘Helleri’) |
All PNW |
English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia ‘Hidcote’) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Oregon boxwood (Paxistima canbyi) |
All PNW |
Kurume azaleas (Rhododendron kurume ‘Hinodegiri’) |
C, LV, LM |
Roses (miniatures, see chapter on roses) |
|
Lavender cotton (Santolina chamaecyparissus) |
All PNW |
Germander (Teucrium chamaedrys) |
All PNW |
American arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis ‘Nana’) |
All PNW |
*deciduous |
|
Berberis darwinii
Winters are varied in the Pacific Northwest, being generally bright and sunny in the eastern part and generally dull and gray in the West. In either part of the region, the use of evergreens to supply year-round interest is a good plan. Some evergreens change color in winter, some change forms, and others are reliably “their own self” from season to season. As you pursue more information about these plants, look for those that will fit your own landscape the best.
The soils in the eastern portion of this region are generally neutral to alkaline in reaction. Some gardeners spend a lot of time and money adapting the microclimate of their soils to accept more acid-loving plants, such as rhododendrons and heather, but to live with nature it’s best to accept what it gives. Many plants will thrive in alkaline soils if other factors are acceptable—general climate, sun, and the ever-present wind. Here are some plants that we believe should be considered for their tolerance to alkaline soils.
Strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo) |
All PNW |
Common wormwood (Artemesia absinthium) |
All PNW |
Silver king artemesia (Artemesia ludoviciana albula) |
All PNW |
Butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii) |
All PNW |
Western redbud (Cercis occidentalis) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Curl-leaf mountain mahogany (Cercocarpus ledifolius) |
All PNW |
Rockrose (Cistus spp.) |
LM, DV |
Cranberry cotoneaster (Cotoneaster apiculatus) |
All PNW |
Rock daphne (Daphne cneorum) |
LM, DV, HD |
Silverberry (Elaeagnus commutata, E. pungens) |
All PNW |
Junipers (Juniperus spp.) |
All PNW |
Cinquefoil (Potentilla fruticosa) |
All PNW |
Flowering almond (Prunus triloba) |
All PNW |
Pyracantha (Pyracantha coccinea) |
All PNW |
Alpine currant (Ribes alpinum) |
DV, HD |
Golden currant (Ribes aureum) |
All PNW |
Black currant (Ribes nigrum ‘Consort’) |
LM, DV, HD |
Lilac (Syringa vulgaris vars.) |
All PNW |
Tamarix (Tamarix spp.) |
LM, DV, HD |
Chaste tree (Vitex agnus-castus) |
|
|
LM, DV, HD |
“The soil around your newly planted shrub should be kept evenly moist for its first two years in the ground. Trees and shrubs will not benefit from lawn watering. They need less frequent, but deeper watering. The minimum amount of water that plants need for survival is three to four heavy, deep irrigations per year. To thrive, they will need six to eight deep irrigations per year.”—Michael Bauer, Oregon State University Extension Agent, Central Oregon
Many of us look for groundcovers that could be substitutes for grass—and quickly find that there is not a substitute for grass. Seldom do you find a groundcover plant that can be walked upon, driven across, or that you can drive your tent stakes through. Groundcover plants as defined here are those that you would use to replace a lawn only from the standpoint that you no longer care to mow it! There are many plants that can fit the requirements of a groundcover, but let’s consider those that only grow to a foot or so tall and sprawl across territory more than they grow upwards. For more groundcovering plants, consult the groundcover chapter. Here are a few of the shrub types that will fit that category.
Prostrate glossy abelia (Abelia grandiflora ‘Prostrata’) |
C, LV, DV |
Gold Ring red barberry (Berberis thunbergii, var. atro ‘Golden Ring’) |
All PNW |
Kobold Japanese barberry (Berberis thunbergii ‘Kobold’) |
All PNW |
Point Reyes ceanothus (Ceanothus gloriosus) |
C, LV, LM |
Rockrose (Cistus spp.) |
LM, DV |
Eichholz cotoneaster (Cotoneaster dammeri ‘Eichholz’) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Bearberry cotoneaster (Cotoneaster dammeri ‘Lowfast’) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Ground cotoneaster (Cotoneaster horizontalis perpusillus) |
All PNW |
Garland daphne (Daphne cneorum ‘Ruby Glow’) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Heather (Erica), all species |
C, LV, LM |
Euonymus (Euonymus fortunei vars.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Salal (Gautheria shallon) |
C, LV, LM |
Broom (Genista pilosa) |
C, LV, LM |
Dwarf yaupon holly (Ilex vomitoria ‘Nana’) |
C, LV, LM |
Juniper (Juniperus spp.) |
All PNW |
Coast leucothoe (Leucothoe axillaris) |
C, LV, LM |
Pheasant berry (Leycesteria formosa) |
C, LV, LM |
Compact Oregon grapeholly (Mahonia aquifolium ‘Compacta’) |
C, LV, LM |
Creeping mahonia (Mahonia repens) |
All PNW |
Dwarf Little Gem spruce (Picea abies ‘Little Gem’) |
All PNW |
Prostrate Colorado spruce (Picea pungens ‘Prostata’) |
All PNW |
Lowboy scarlet firethorn (Pyracantha coccinea ‘Lowboy’) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Spirea (Spiraea × bumalda vars.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Alpine Japanese spirea (Spiraea japonica ‘Alpina’) |
All PNW |
Little Princess Japanese spirea (Spiraea japonica ‘Little Princess’) |
All PNW |
Repandens English yew (Taxus baccata ‘Repandens’) |
C, LV, LM |
Cole’s Prostrate Canadian hemlock (Tsuga can. ‘Cole’s Prostrate’) |
All PNW |
Creeping blueberry (Vaccinium crassifolium) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
David viburnum (Viburnum davidii) |
C, LV, LM |
“Ecologically, salal is an important shrub. Common in a variety of habitats, from bogs to dry, well-drained slopes. Most abundant in evergreen forests. Makes an excellent groundcover. Fruit edible. Low-growing in dry, sunny conditions, much taller in moist, shady conditions.”—Linda Robinson, Naturescaping for Clean Rivers
This is a good list to have at hand as the landscape matures from a new planting to one that has large shrubs and trees that have blocked out part, if not all of the light. Some shrubs are not particularly choosey about their exposure to sunlight or their livability in shade. This characteristic allows you to repeat textures or plants throughout a landscape design, and gives the landscape a longevity that is often shortened when you use shrubs only adapted to sunlight. Here are a few to try.
Skimmia
Glossy abelia (Abelia grandiflora ‘Edward Goucher’) |
C, LV, DV |
Japanese maple (Acer palmatum ‘Butterfly’) |
All PNW |
Japanese aucuba (Acuba japonica) |
C, LV, LM |
Barberry (Berberis thunbergii vars.) |
All PNW |
Wintergreen barberry (Berberis julianae) |
All PNW |
Butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii) |
All PNW |
Boxwood (Buxus sempervirens) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Beautyberry (Callicarpa bodinieri ‘Profusion’) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Sasanqua camellia (Camellia sasanqua vars.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Winter hazel (Corylopsis spp.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Irish heath (Daboecia cantabrica vars.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Winter daphne (Daphne odora) |
C, LV, LM |
Slender deutzia (Deutzia gracilis) |
All PNW |
Red-veined enkianthus (Enkianthus campanulatus) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Escallonia (Escallonia spp.) |
C, LV, LM |
Dwarf fothergilla (Fothergilla gardenii) |
C, LV, LM |
Coast silktassel (Garrya eliptica) |
C, LV |
Salal (Gaultheria shallon) |
C, LV, LM |
Hydrangea (Hydrangea spp.) |
All PNW |
Mountain laurel (Kalmia latifolia vars.) |
All PNW |
Japanese rose (Kerria japonica) |
All PNW |
Beautybush (Kolkwitzia amabilis) |
All PNW |
Leucothoe (Leucothoe spp.) |
C, LV, LM |
Mahonia (Mahonia spp.) |
Varies |
Nandina (Nandina domestica vars.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Osmanthus (Osmanthus spp.) |
C, LV, LM |
Sweet mock orange (Philadelphus coronarius) |
All PNW |
Japanese pieris (Pieris spp. and vars.) |
All PNW |
Indian hawthorn (Raphiolepis indica vars.) |
C, LV, LM |
Sarcococca (Sarcococca spp.) |
C, LV, LM |
Skimmia (Skimmia japonica) |
C, LV, LM |
Spirea (Spiraea spp.) |
All PNW |
Vaccinium (Vaccinium spp.) |
C, LV, LM |
Background plants are indispensable in the landscape to help set off or emphasize the beauty, color, interest or form of others. To be effective, the background planting should be tall enough to contrast with the plants you are using in the foreground. Often these plants become a screen that either blocks an undesirable view or somehow changes the microclimate for a part of the garden. Background plants also can provide interest through flowers, fruits, fall color, new color, and so forth. Background screens can also be used to divide garden rooms.
English Holly
Barberry (Berberis spp.) |
All PNW |
Camellia (Camellia japonica vars.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Slender hinoki false cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Gracilis’) |
All PNW |
English holly (Ilex aquifolium) |
C, LV, LM |
Hetzi columnar juniper (Juniperus chinensis ‘Hetzii columnaris’) |
All PNW |
Spartan juniper (J. chinensis ‘Spartan’) |
All PNW |
Spearmint juniper (J. chinensis ‘Spearmint’) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Wintergreen juniper (J. chinensis ‘Wintergreen’) |
All PNW |
Gray Gleam juniper (J. scopulorum ‘Gray Gleam’) |
All PNW |
Wichita Blue juniper (J. scopulorum ‘Wichita Blue’) |
All PNW |
Skyrocket red cedar (J. virginiana ‘Skyrocket’) |
All PNW |
Japanese privet (Ligustrum japonicum) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Texan Japanese privet (Ligustrum japonicum ‘Texanum’) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Holly leaf osmanthus (Osmanthus heterophyllus vars.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Burkwood osmarea (Osmarea burkwoodi) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
English laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Portugal laurel (Prunus lusitanica) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Photinia (Photinia fraserii, P. glabra) |
C, LV, LM |
Yew (Taxus spp.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Irish yew (Taxus baccata ‘Stricta’) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Hatfield yew (Taxus media ‘Hatfieldii’) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
American arborvitae (Thuja spp. and vars.) |
All PNW |
Pyramidal arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis ‘Fastigiata’) |
All PNW |
Emerald arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis ‘Emerald’) |
All PNW |
Laurustinus (Viburnum tinus) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
American cranberry bush (Viburnum trilobum) |
All PNW |
Planting methods have changed during the past few years. For years we have added organic matter like peat moss, compost, or animal manure to the planting hole to enrich the soil and supposedly to improve plant growth. Research, however, shows no benefit from amending the backfill soil. In fact, organic matter added to individual planting holes in clay soil may hold excess moisture around plant roots after irrigation or rainfall. Even in well-drained soils, amendments to the planting hole may cause roots to grow within the hole rather than to the outside soil where it would properly anchor the plant. Now the proper method is to backfill with the same soil that came out of the planting hole.
Here is a list of shrubs that provide interest and beauty in their foliage, flowers, or a combination of both. If you like to create arrangements, you should have some of these in your landscape for your supply. As you become familiar with plants on this list, you will find that those with waxy, tough leaves, Oregon grape for example, will hold up for weeks, while new growth of photinia or flowers of red currant may only last several days. Spring bloomers can best be used in late winter and early spring, just before they open their flowers. Bring branches indoors and let the flowers open in a warm room, then keep the arrangement in fresh water and placed in a cool site for long life of the flowers. One further suggestion: Learn to cut foliage in such a way that the plant still looks good after you have taken an armful of branches. Cut just above a side shoot or healthy bud that will continue the growth after you have taken the your arrangement materials. Don’t shear the plants, as that only produces lots of small, stemmy shoots.
Hairy manzanita (Arctostaphylos columbiana) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Common manzanita (A. manzanita) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Camellia (Camellia japonica vars.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Sasanqua camellia (C. sasanqua vars.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Japanese flowering quince (Chaenomeles japonica vars.) |
All PNW |
Wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) |
C, LV |
Winter hazel (Corylopsis spp.) |
All PNW |
Winter daphne (Daphne odora ‘Aureo-marginata’) |
C, LV, LM |
Gilt Edge silverberry (Elaeagnus ebbingei ‘Gilt Edge’) |
C, LV, LM |
Winged euonymus (Euonymus alata) |
All PNW |
Forsythia (Forsythia intermedia) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Chinese witch hazel (Hamamelis mollis) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Double Japanese kerria (Kerria japonica ‘Pleniflora’) |
All PNW |
Oregon grape (Mahonia aquifolium) |
All PNW |
Heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Fraser photinia (Photinia fraseri) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Lily-of-the-valley shrub [Andromeda] (Pieris japonica ‘Crispa’) |
All PNW |
Variegated pittosporum (Pittosporum tobira ‘Variegata’) |
C, LV, LM |
Firethorn (Pyracantha spp.) |
All PNW |
Indian hawthorn (Raphiolepis indica vars.) |
C, LV, LM |
Red-flowering currant (Ribes sanguineum) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Double bridal wreath spirea (Spiraea reevesiana) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Lilac (Syringa vulgaris) |
All PNW |
Korean spice viburnum (Viburnum carlesii) |
All PNW |
European cranberry bush viburnum (Viburnum opulus) |
All PNW |
Spring bouquet laurustinus (Viburnum tinus ‘Spring Bouquet’) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Weigela (Weigela florida vars.) |
All PNW |
Every year new and different plant materials are introduced to the landscape trade and then to the gardening public. Many of the newer types are hybrids that incorporate some of the best qualities of their parents, and in many cases may have qualities of disease resistance, tolerance to particular growing conditions, unique growth habits, fall or spring foliage color, or surprises in the color of new growth. Here are some that we feel you should look into as you relandscape or develop your new landscape. Some are old standbys that have been forgotten. Others are new.
Blue mist (Caryopteris clandonensis ‘Dark Knight’) |
All PNW |
Japanese flowering quince (Chaenomeles japonica vars.) |
All PNW |
Redvein enkianthus (Enkianthus campanulatus) |
C, LV, LM |
Escallonia (Escallonia spp.) |
C, LV, LM |
Lace cap hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Mariesii’) |
C, LV, LM |
English holly (Ilex aquifolium dwarf vars.) |
C, LV, LM |
Mountain laurel (Kalmia latifolia vars.) |
All PNW |
Rainbow drooping leucothoe (Leucothoe fontanesiana ‘Rainbow’) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Pheasant berry (Leycesteria formosa) |
C, LV, LM |
Gold and silver flower (Lonicera japonica ‘Aureo-reticula’) |
C, LV, LM |
Galaxy lily magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora ‘Galaxy’) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Burmese mahonia (Mahonia lomariifolia) |
C, LV, LM |
Holly-leaf osmanthus (Osmanthus heterophyllus vars.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Dwarf mucronata spruce (Picea abies ‘Mucronata’) |
All PNW |
Forest Flame Japanese pieris (Pieris hybrid ‘Forest Flame’) |
All PNW |
Mountain Fire Japanese pieris (Pieris japonica ‘Mountain Fire’) |
All PNW |
Valley Rose Japanese pieris (Pieris japonica ‘Valley Rose’) |
All PNW |
Valley Valentine Japanese pieris (Pieris japonica ‘Valley Valentine’) |
All PNW |
Dwarf white pine (Pinus strobus ‘Nana’) |
All PNW |
Fragrant sarcococca (Sarcococca ruscifolia) |
C, LV, LM |
Goldflame spirea (Spiraea bumalda ‘Goldflame’) |
All PNW |
Viburnum (Viburnum spp.) |
All PNW |
Weigela (Weigela florida vars.) |
All PNW |
A plant that grows ornamental fruits, usually in the form of berries, and that hangs onto them through the summer and fall, gives added interest to the landscape. Especially valued are those that are held through the entire winter. Many of these are also attractive to birds, for an obvious reason, and in fact may be picked free of fruit as our hungry feathered friends spot your berry supply. Some of the fruiting types require a pollinator nearby to assure a berry set; Viburnum davidii and Skimmia are two that need pollinators somewhere near. The fall is a good time to shop for fruiting types of shrubs because you can see the actual thing.
A better-looking clipped hedge will be the result of carefully selecting the right type of evergreen. Large-leafed plants usually end up with some leaves cut in half, or with a part of the leaf remaining that soon turns brown on the cut edge. One of the main large-leafed types is English laurel (Prunus laurocerasus), and it commonly shows cut edges where it is pruned to hedge form. Select smaller-leafed forms for a more “perfect” hedge (and you will find that small-leafed forms do not grow back as quickly as the more robust large-leafed types). When pruning hedges, always prune so the top is narrower than the base. This is to insure that all leaves receive sunlight, and therefore remain healthy and alive. Otherwise, the bottom becomes leggy and bare.
Some shrubs have the ability to reach fifteen or twenty feet in height, and often with a similar spread. And if they have been badly selected or sited, they become a constant pruning problem as you attempt to subdue them. Why not train them into small trees? The shrubs in this list are those we suggest selecting for use in the landscape where a small tree would work. Also, check the small tree list in the tree chapter for more ideas.
Strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Camellia (Camellia spp.) |
C, LV, LM |
Franchet cotoneaster (Cotoneaster franchetii) |
All PNW |
Red escallonia (Escallonia rubra) |
C, LV |
Coast silktassel (Garrya elliptica) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
English holly (Ilex aquifolium) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Blue Prince hybrid holly (Ilex meserveae ‘Blue Prince’) |
All PNW |
Blue Princess hybrid holly (I. meserveae ‘Blue Princess’) |
All PNW |
Nellie Stevens holly (I. ‘Nellie R. Stevens’) |
C, LV |
Sweet bay (Laurus nobilis) |
C, LV |
Wax leaf privet (Ligustrum japonicum) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Dark pink hybrid magnolia (Magnolia stellata ‘Dark Pink’) |
All PNW |
Sweet olive (Osmanthus fragrans) |
C, LV |
Photinia (Photinia spp.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
English laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Portugal laurel (Prunus lusitanica) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Majestic Beauty Indian hawthorn (Raphiolepis ‘Majestic Beauty’) |
C, LV, LM |
Staghorn sumac (Rhus typhina) |
All PNW |
Cutleaf staghorn sumac (Rhus typhina ‘Laciniata’) |
All PNW |
Common snowball (Viburnum opulus ‘Sterile’) |
All PNW |
“Often, when a landscape is nearing maturity, a major problem involves deciding how to handle overgrown and crowded shrubbery, Sometimes it is best to take a chain saw and remove the mass of trunks, twigs, and branches. However, with a little patience and planning, many can be rejuvenated. Spring or early summer are the best times for rejuvenation. Start by removing dead branches, thin those remaining, head back long limbs to force dormant buds to grow. As growth develops during the summer and the following year, train the new growth into the form desired.”—Jorge Garcia, Latin Landscapes, Portland
The art of espalier is one of pruning and training to create a particular effect with plant material. For this to work, you must have a picture in mind of what you want to create and the right plant material. Common examples are apple trees on dwarf rootstocks which can give you fruit production along a fence, or firethorn espaliered against a garage wall to give you cordons of beautiful red berries along the horizontal limbs. Many different sorts of woody plants can be espaliered; all it takes is a little extra effort.
Basically, espaliers are formed by pruning and training the trunks and limbs and fastening them to a support. Nails, wire, hooks, and fishing line are often the holders of plant materials, so use whatever you need to get the form you want. Espaliers can be formal, say to look like a candelabra, or informal, where the natural form of the plant is used to define the shape and twigs and limbs are removed as needed to maintain that form. If you are planning to include espalier as a part of your landscape, we suggest you find a book that outlines the procedures and gives instructions. Some of the plants listed include trees, such as cedars, but as espaliers they can be kept low and become more shrublike in their growth.
Sasanqua camellia (Camellia sasanqua) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Weeping blue atlas cedar (Cedrus atlantica ‘Glauca Pendula’) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Weeping deodar cedar (Cedrus deodara ‘Pendula’) |
C, LV, LM |
Flowering quince (Chaenomeles vars.) |
All PNW |
Peking cotoneaster (Cotoneaster acutifolius) |
All PNW |
Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster lacteus, C. parneyi) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Escallonia (Escallonia spp. and vars.) |
C, LV, LM |
Burning bush euonymus (Euonymus alata) |
All PNW |
Euonymus (Euonymus fortunei vars.) |
All PNW |
Pineapple guava (Feijoa sellowiana) |
C, LV |
Forsythia (Forsythia intermedia) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Privet honeysuckle (Lonicera pileata) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
African fern pine (Podocarpus gracilior) |
C, LV, LM |
Southern yew pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus) |
C, LV, LM |
Flowering pomegranate (Punica granatum ‘Double Red’) |
All PNW |
Firethorn (Pyracantha coccinea, P. fortuneana) |
All PNW |
Narrow-leaf firethorn (Pyracantha angustifolia) |
All PNW |
Sarcococca (Sarcococca ruscifolia) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Doublefile viburnum (Viburnum plicatum tomentosum) |
All PNW |
Container gardening is a very popular method for creating portable landscapes. There is no reason that the small-space gardener should miss out on the special features that some shrubs can offer. Larger garden areas can use groups of containerized shrubs to create backdrops for annuals and perennials or develop the illusion of small garden rooms. The following shrubs can be used as specimens, accents for texture, or basic garden room dividers. Most could be planted alone in a large whiskey-barrel-size container. Groundcovers can be added at the base of many for contrast. Containers require extra care and watering during warm summer months and may need winter protection, depending on your climate zone.
Glossy abelia (Abelia grandiflora) |
C, LV, DV |
Edward Goucher abelia (Abelia grandiflora ‘Edward Goucher’) |
C, LV, DV |
Japanese aucuba (Aucuba japonica vars.) |
C, LV, LM |
Azaleas (Azaleas var.) |
C, LV, LM |
Japanese barberry (Berberis thunbergii) |
All PNW |
Common boxwood (Buxus sempervirens) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Flowering quince (Chaenomeles spp.) |
All PNW |
Parney cotoneaster (Cotoneaster lacteus) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Silverberry (Elaeagnus pungens) |
C, LV, LM |
Hardy fuchsia (Fuchsia magellanica) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus var.) |
All PNW |
Big-leaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) |
C, LV LM, DV |
Dwarf English holly (Ilex spp.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Junipers (Juniperus spp.) |
All PNW |
Oregon grape (Mahonia spp.) |
All PNW |
Dwarf mugo pine (Pinus mugo mugo) |
All PNW |
Potentilla (Potentilla fruiticosa var.) |
All PNW |
Dwarf rhododendrons (Rhododendrons var.) |
All PNW |
Spireas (Spiraea spp.) |
All PNW |
Spring Bouquet viburnum (Viburnum tinus ‘Spring Bouquet’) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Smaller shrubs, particularly the evergreen sorts, have a special place in container gardens. In large planters or in groupings of containers, woody plants can impart a feeling of permanence and solidarity that is not achievable with herbaceous and/or annual plants. The often dramatic effects that they can provide make them well worth the extra care needed to give winter protection to roots and tops.
The problem with old landscapes is that often you can no longer see the house, usually because some poor selections were made when the landscape was first planted. A popular educational program that Master Gardeners in Oregon deliver is called “Landscaping for Home Security.” A major emphasis of this program is that of selecting the right plants, or finding a way to trim the plant so you can see windows and doors without sacrificing the beauty or utility of the plant. This list will be useful to you as you are either beginning your landscape, or rebuilding it when you yank out those overgrown plants that keep you from seeing out. This list was built on the premise that the picture window is the most likely to be overgrown, thus the plants in this list mature at eighteen to thirty-six inches. Also, we have listed only selected plants from many that are available and effective, so be prepared to search out the types listed and see what their cousins look like. You might like them better than we did.
Deutzia
Scotch heather (Calluna vulgaris selected vars.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Compact bronze hinoki cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Pygmaea Aurescens’) |
All PNW |
Rockrose (Cistus corbariensis) |
LM, DV |
Coral beauty cotoneaster (Cotoneaster dammeri ‘Coral Beauty’) |
All PNW |
Garland daphne (Daphne cneorum) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Slender deutzia (Deutzia gracilis) |
All PNW |
Heather (Erica selected spp. and vars.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Ivory Jade euonymus (Euonymus fortunei ‘Ivory Jade’) |
All PNW |
Woadwaxen (Genista spp.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Pink Elf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Pink Elf’) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Japanese holly (Ilex crenata vars.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Blue Pacific shore juniper (Juniperus conferta ‘Blue Pacific’) |
All PNW |
Junipers (selected Juniperus sabina vars.) |
All PNW |
Blue Star juniper (Juniperus squamata ‘Blue Star’) |
All PNW |
Drooping leucothoe (Leucothoe fontanesiana ‘Rainbow’) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Longleaf mahonia (Mahonia nervosa) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Dwarf heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica, dwarf vars.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Pernettya (Pernettya mucronata) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Little Gem spruce (Picea abies ‘Little Gem’) |
All PNW |
Nest spruce (Picea abies ‘Nidiformis’) |
All PNW |
Blue nest spruce (Picea mariana ‘Nana’) |
All PNW |
Dwarf globe blue spruce (Picea pungens ‘Globosa’) |
All PNW |
Cinquefoil (Potentilla fruticosa ‘Klondike’) |
All PNW |
Red ace cinquefoil (P. fruticosa ‘Red Ace’) |
All PNW |
Sutter’s gold cinquefoil (P. fruticosa ‘Sutter’s Gold’) |
All PNW |
Sweet box (Sarcococca hookerana humilis) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Spirea (Spiraea bumalda, selected vars.) |
All PNW |
Davids viburnum (Viburnum davidii) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Dwarf European cranberry bush (Viburnum opulus ‘Nanum’) |
All PNW |
Evergreen shrubs are the mainstays of most yards, but they do not generally give much seasonal color, other than varying shades of green. Some deciduous shrubs become the beacons of the plant world when the autumn season approaches. Fall coloration will vary with the climatic factors that you experience in your particular location. Some of the best colors come when we have dry summers with little rain. Here are a few of the more reliable deciduous shrubs for fall color.
Staghorn Sumac
|
|
Red chokecherry (Aronia arbutifolia) |
LV, LM, DV, HD |
Disanthus (Disanthus cercidifolius) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Winged euonymus (Euonymus alata) |
All PNW |
Doublefile viburnum (Viburnum plicatum tomentosum) |
C, LV, LM |
Zenobia (Zenobia pulverulenta) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Red to Orange |
|
Serviceberry (Amelanchier × grandiflora) |
LV, LM, DV, HD |
Red vein enkianthus (Enkianthus campanulatus) |
C, LV, LM |
Fothergilla (Fothergilla gardenii, F. major) |
C, LV, LM |
Witch hazel (Hamamelis spp.) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
Fragrant sumac (Rhus aromatica) |
All PNW |
Flameleaf sumac (Rhus copallina) |
All PNW |
Smooth sumac (Rhus glabra) |
All PNW |
Staghorn sumac (Rhus typhina) |
All PNW |
Linden viburnum (Viburnum dilatatum) |
C, LV, LM, DV |
European cranberry bush (Viburnum opulus ‘Nanum’) |
All PNW |
Common snowball (Viburnum opulus ‘Roseum’) |
All PNW |
Yellow |
|
Rosa rugosa |
LV, LM, DV, HD |
Virginia rose (Rosa virginiana) |
LV, LM, DV, HD |
Blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum) |
C, LV, LM |
“The witch hazel ‘Sandra,’ has tiny flowers, but excellent orange blossom fragrance, and a fall color more red than other witch hazels.”—Steve Carruthers, landscape designer, Portland, Oregon
Seasonal considerations are critical to making your landscape interesting. The following list of shrubs are grouped by season. Some plants have showy flowers, some have beautiful fall color or berries that persist into winter, some offer surprises of interesting silhouettes or bark color. Your landscape design should reflect the best that each season has to offer. A helpful hint for fall and winter interest is to go inside and look out. Place plants so that you can see them from inside when the weather is cold or rainy and place fragrant plants where you will be near enough to enjoy them.
