DISTANCE: 37km (23 miles)
TIME: 1 day
START: Bunyola
END: Lloseta
POINTS TO NOTE: The villages are linked by the Ma-2110, which makes the route easy to follow, but the road is full of hairpin bends, so it’s slow going. If you don’t have time for the whole route, or don’t want to rent a car, take the Sóller train from Palma to Bunyola (www.trendesoller.com), which links to route 7.
The pretty villages of Bunyola, Orient, Alaró and Lloseta can all be used as jumping-off points for a variety of well-marked hiking trails. If you want to spend a couple of days exploring the area, Orient, with good restaurants and hotels, is the best base.
Bunyola’s distinctive green shutters
Greg Gladman/Apa Publications
Bunyola
Driving into Bunyola 1 [map] on the Ma-11 from Palma, the first thing you notice is the striking yellow-tiled spire and bright green shutters of the Modernista Villa Francisca, which gives a sense of the bourgeois nature of these mountain villages. In the 19th century it was known for its wine (the name is from the Arabic word for vineyard) and was quickly adopted by the upper classes as an escape from the city during the Belle Epoque.
Associations with an exclusive clientele continue – in 2015 Sir Richard Branson added a beautiful Mallorcan retreat, Son Bunyola, to his portfolio. Yet while the village is still popular with second-home owners, it has largely escaped the ravages of tourism. Bunyola is a sweet place for a cup of coffee, especially on Saturday mornings when the market takes over the main plaza. For walkers, the wooded glades that surround the town make for some good rambling. Paths are signposted from the train station, but if it’s serious hiking you’re after, continue on to Orient.
Orient
Leave Bunyola on the Ma-2100 with the majestic Serra d’Alfàbia rising up to your left. Once over the pass, the descent into the lush green fields of the Vall d’Orient is breathtaking, and the small village of Orient 2 [map], is no less lovely.
The highlight is the mysterious trail to the Salt del Freu 3 [map] – a 25m (82ft) high waterfall and misty river that runs through a forest of ancient oaks.
Castell d’Alaró
Alamy
Alaró
Continuing towards Alaró 4 [map], the road runs between two tabletop mountains: S’Alcadena to the left and the Puig d’Alaró to the right, with the ruins of the Castell d’Alaró 5 [map] (www.castellalaro.cat) perched on top, offering dormitory accommodation and a restaurant with pa amb oli (bread and oil) and homemade cakes. One of three such structures on the island, the castle is famous for resisting for four years the Aragonese invasion of 1285, and for the grisly fate of the two commanders in charge after they capitulated.
The walk from the town of Alaró (3 hours each way) to the castle is one of the most popular on the island and well signposted. You can’t drive all the way to it, but if you’re looking for an easier hike, turn off at Km 18 and park at the Es Verger restaurant. It takes about an hour each way from there.
Lloseta
Lloseta 6 [map] is a pleasant spot to end your trip, with just enough interest to warrant a stroll and a look around the shops. Don’t miss lunch at Santi Taura, see 1, one of the most exciting little restaurants on the island.
Food and Drink
1 Santi Taura
Carrer Joan Carles 1, Lloseta [map]; tel: 656 738 214; www.restaurantsantitaura.com; L and D, closed Tue, Sun D and Mon L; €€€
One of the stars of new Mallorcan cuisine, Santi Taura is an elegant little place that serves just one tasting menu, an excellent-value (37€), six-course extravaganza based on locally sourced, seasonal products. The menu changes every Wednesday. Booking is essential.