Writing and colouring in stimulates the joy of learning in children from an early age and access to a good desk cultivates a love of learning. The desk needs to be low enough for the child’s age but large enough for the paper and writing materials they will accumulate. I built a desk for each of our first twins, painted them pink and blue and faced them to each other in our family room. Initially, when they were younger, they knelt on the seat, but later on they sat normally and used the footrest. Facing the desks against each other is perfect for shared activities or games. The younger twins also loved the desks, pulling themselves up and clambering around the inside, which is quite solid and safe for them to do. Our older twins’ first game of chess together, with Dad adjudicating, was played on these desks.
This traditional desk is a classic schoolhouse design with a footrest and a storage shelf underneath the work surface. It features runners along the base, which connect the seat with the work surface and sides. There are also aesthetic runners underneath either side of the desktop, which feature a 45-degree tapering that matches the base runners. The desk and bench legs also feature quarter-circle cutouts at the top and bottom, which ensures the design balances form with function – it is a very solid construction without looking too bulky. All material is 20mm thick pine and ergonomically the desk is suitable for children aged 3 to 10 years. Cutting, gluing and colouring in also means the surface will take wear and tear so it needs to be practical enough to be repainted when needed. Wood screws were used as fasteners, ensuring the length of the screws were selected according to the overall thickness of pieces being joined. Only the screws fastening the top work surface need to be countersunk so that when it is sanded and finished, the screw heads are not visible.
This classic desk is perfect for playrooms and classrooms, and also looks great in a wood finish with two coats of varnish. The footrest and storage shelf are practical, child-friendly features.
WHAT I WOULD DO DIFFERENTLY NEXT TIME
The shelf underneath the desktop proved very useful for storing books, pens and paper. You could add a second shelf for extra storage, although it may interfere with the ergonomics of the design by restricting movement of the child's knees. It would be preferable to make the desktop as a hinged flap, which the child can open from the front to get full access to the shelf underneath. If you decide to modify the design in this way, don't fasten the desktop surface down; simply mount a length of piano hinge at the back corner. Make sure you add a lid stay to prevent the hinged desktop from banging shut on little fingers.
PART | QUANTITY | THICKNESS | WIDTH | LENGTH | |
A | Desktop | 1 | 20mm | 508mm | 660mm |
B | Shelf back | 1 | 20mm | 76mm | 520mm |
C | Bench seat | 1 | 20mm | 229mm | 660mm |
D | Bench legs | 2 | 20mm | 178mm | 337mm |
E | Bench crosspiece | 1 | 20mm | 76mm | 520mm |
F | Desktop runner | 2 | 20mm | 51mm | 381mm |
G | Shelf | 1 | 20mm | 330mm | 520mm |
H | Desk legs | 2 | 20mm | 381mm | 641mm |
I | Main runners | 2 | 20mm | 76mm | 864mm |
J | Footrest | 1 | 20mm | 203mm | 520mm |
Project information
Overall dimensions | 864mm long x 660mm wide x 661mm high |
Number of parts | 14 |
Special equipment | Jigsaw, belt sander, countersink bit |
Techniques | Countersink (see page 22) |
Difficulty | Medium |
Duration | 8 hours |
Family fun factor
CUT OUT THE LEGS, DESKTOP RUNNERS AND MAIN RUNNERS
1 Use a carpenter’s pencil to mark out the desk legs (H x 2) and bench legs (D x 2), using the correct radius for the curves, as per the design. You can use a paint tin or round template of the correct size. Avoid drawing markings over knots in the wood, which may cause edge defects when painting.
2 Use a jigsaw and a thin blade with fine teeth to cut out along the markings for the desk and bench legs. You may want to practise cutting such a curve on a scrap piece of wood before attempting the four such cuts required for this project. A halfround file can be used to file off irregularities after making the cut.
3 Use a carpenter’s pencil and a steel ruler to mark off the desktop runners (F x 2) and main runners (I x 2), both of which require 45-degree taper cuts at both ends. Clamp the pieces to the work surface with quick grip clamps and use a jigsaw to cut the taper.
4 Ensure that all parts are correctly sized, ready for assembly, and mark off the positions of all joints by using the design drawings provided. Pieces of the same shape can be placed against each other to check for accuracy and then be sanded or filed down until the two parts match exactly.
5Assemble the seat by clamping the parts with quick grip clamps, as shown: bench seat (C), bench legs (D x 2) which were cut out earlier, and the bench crosspiece (E). Use wood screws to fasten in place by drilling pilot holes and using a power drill with an insert bit to tighten.
TIP: Use the one-step clamp and assemble method for this step where all parts are clamped and fastened at once rather than each join one at a time. This also requires placement of the clamp heads away from the intended positions of the screws. Such a technique does require more clamps than usual, but this is a worthwhile investment.
6Assemble and clamp the desk components in the same way, as shown in the photograph: footrest (J), desk legs (H x 2), shelf (G) and shelf back (B). In this step and the previous, a rubber mallet is useful to tap components into place before final tightening of the three long, quick grip clamps.
7Mark the positions of the cut screws by spacing them evenly along the outside of the butt joints, as shown in the photograph. Drill pilot holes, countersink and drive in cut screws to fasten all joints.
TIP: Wood filler can be used prior to painting to hide gaps, knots on surfaces and edges, or imperfections in the construction process.
8 Mark out the assembly lines on the top and underside of the desktop (A) with a steel ruler and carpenter’s pencil. The reason for marking the joining position underneath is to enable you to attach the desktop (A) to the desk legs (H) accurately and ensure precise positioning of the cut screws.
9 Clamp the desktop (A) to the desk legs (H x 2) with quick grip clamps, as shown in the photograph. Fasten with cut screws between the lines drawn on the desktop (A). Use countersinks for all screws in the top surface so that you can fill with wood filler and sand down for a flat surface.
Back view of desk
10 The seat and desk assemblies are now complete and ready to be joined at their base with the runners (I x 2). Please note that the bench and desk components, as shown separately in the photograph, are not stable enough to be used individually without being fixed together. Check for right angles with a try square and accuracy of assembly with a steel ruler before proceeding to the next step.
INSTALL THE RUNNERS AND DESKTOP RUNNERS
11 Use quick grip clamps to clamp the runners (I x 2) to the seat and desk assemblies on both sides, ensuring the spacing between the ends, bench and desk assembly along the length of each runner (I) is accurate. Use a power drill, insert bit and cut screws to fasten the runners (I x 2) to the seat and desk assemblies along each of their lengths (see the photograph in step 13 for the positions of these screws).
Side view of desk
12 Follow the same procedure given in step 11 to attach the desktop runners (F x 2) on both sides of the desktop (A). These runners are for aesthetic purposes and balance the overall look and feel with the runners (I x 2) at the base. In the photograph you can also see the markings and positions of the cut screws used to fasten the shelf (G) to the right-hand desk leg (H).
13 Fill any gaps or knots with wood filler, including above the cut screw heads on the desktop, and sand the final assembly as required. Prime and paint with a colour of your choice.
Photographer extraordinaire Doug Place working his magic on the other side of the camera, ensuring the finished item is well showcased, as on the front cover.