THE CELERY PLANT GROWS upright with a root ball at the bottom. (Don’t confuse the actual root of a celery plant with celeriac, or celery root, which is a different variety that has been bred to grow a large bulbous root without the large “ribs.”) The bagged celery that you find in stores usually includes only the elongated ribs (or stalks). Botanically, the celery ribs are stalks from which the plant’s leaves grow. These leaves are wonderful for flavoring soups and salads and can also serve as an herb.
And the whitish core bottoms (not to be overlooked, either) are the stems.
SERVES 2 / TIME: 20 MIN
Sautéing the celery bottoms using clarified butter allows you to cook at a higher temperature without burning the butter. I serve the softened buttery vegetable bottoms along with fish roe and lots of fresh wild herbs, scattering chive sprouts over the top.
½ cup (1 stick) good-quality unsalted butter
1 shallot, chopped
5 celery bottoms (or other vegetable bottoms such as napa cabbage), 4 to 5 inches long
2 teaspoons lemon juice
2 teaspoons orange juice
1 tablespoon strong-flavored stock or dashi (available from Asian grocery stores or online)
1 teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon cracked black pepper
3 tablespoons celery leaves, minced chives, and other green herbs (I also used the long shoots of chives because I had them)
3 tablespoons fish roe (optional)
To clarify the butter: In a small pan, melt the butter over low heat, watching as it begins to foam and a clear golden layer of liquid separates, about 12 minutes (see Note). Skim off the top foam and pour the butterfat into a glass container. It may make as much as about ⅓ cup, which is more than enough for the ¼ cup needed for the celery bottoms. Store any extra, including the foam and/or the bottom layer (which can be used as butter for soups, pancakes, and sauces) in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.
To make the celery bottoms: In a small pan, heat ¼ cup clarified butter over medium-low heat. Add the shallot and sauté until softened. Add the celery bottoms and cook, spooning the butter over the ends, for 5 to 7 minutes, until softened. Stir in lemon juice, orange juice, and stock and continue spooning for another minute. Mix in salt, pepper, and herbs and remove from heat. Top with roe for a more substantial dish.
NOTE:
Watch the butter carefully to make sure it doesn’t begin to brown. If it does, however, not to worry. You can use it as a deliciously nutty tasting brown butter sauce instead, to be spooned over vegetables, pasta, or fish with a little salt and lemon.