HISTORICALLY, EXOTIC SPICES were luxuries reserved for the rich, whereas native aromatic local plants—i.e., herbs—were for the peasants, particularly as a way of softening and masking less-fresh cuts of meat. Thyme, rosemary, and fennel originated as wild plants on the rocky Mediterranean hillsides. Their highly aromatic fragrances and flavors made simple food delicious, without any further embellishment needed. Herbs also aided in digestion and had therapeutic properties, being high in mineral salts and trace nutrients. Herbs whet the appetite for almost any dish, no matter how frugal.
The woodier herbs, such as thyme, rosemary, and sage, seem more aromatic. Botanically, their leaves are attached to true stems, whereas in the case of more leafy tender green herbs, such as parsley, coriander, dill, and fennel, the leaves are attached to leaf stalks. The more tender green “leaf stalks” are easy to use by chopping more finely. Herbs with woodier true stems are better for using in stocks and stuffings, with roasts, and hanging in bunches to dry because of their woody structure.
I must always have Herbs (pronounced with the H). By a Herb, I mean almost any small green that is not a vegetable. Not just parsley, thyme, and rosemary, but also nasturtium leaves, upland cress, dandelion greens, and chickweed (see Wild Herbs Glossary, here). Some people don’t understand why I’m crazy about Herbs because they think they are only good as some kind of “garnish.” Garnishes are often not used well; think of an orange slice or some curly parsley sprig that looks like it’s been used over and over. But a true garnish is the finishing to the flavors of a chunk of vegetable or protein. Without the Herb, it is like writing a letter and forgetting to sign it.
Dishes loaded with salt, pepper, and sugar alone are seasoned, but don’t always have real flavor. Start using more Herbs for flavor and don’t stick to only one kind of Herb. If it is not written in the recipe, you can still try another. If the recipe says use dill with salmon, that’s fine. But why not use other ones if that’s what you have? Maybe thyme, lambsquarters, fennel, and lemon balm (as in Scraped Salmon Tartare on the Bone, here). Or use dill with Brussels sprouts (in Brussels Sprout Stems & Leaves with Whey & Dill, here).
Try just a little at first, and if you don’t like the taste, you can always just spit it out. It’s not going to ruin your meal if you have extra thyme or less rosemary or put in some chopped parsley or fennel tops.
Herbs don’t have to be piled up high on a plate as a “salad.” They are part of the dressing that must be on every dish; otherwise the dish would feel naked. Herbs can give energy and balance to fatty meat or fish to make the dish refreshing. Adding fresh Herbs is better than grinding pepper all the time, and they can have a similar effect of adding a bit of heat.
I divide Herbs into two different types: The first are the strong Herbs that are often cooked and that you can put on the grill, like thyme and rosemary. The other type includes leafy, green, and tender Herbs that add refreshment and lightness, like young sprouts and shoots of vegetables, chickweed, purslane, lambsquarters, and spruce tips. Because these are fresh I want them to be local and seasonal (some Herbs’ lives are very fleeting), changing the mix when nature changes.
There is such a variety among land Herbs: I like dill flowers, nasturtium, rosemary, parsley, chervil, lovage, upland cress, purslane, flowering mint, sorrels of all kinds, mustard greens, dandelion greens, cattail, amaranth, onion shoots, young yarrow. I always, always have to have fresh and dried Herbs in the pantry. They are more important to me than spices.
So instead of throwing Herbs into the bottom of the refrigerator to turn moldy and slimy, use what you need fresh and then hang the rest up to dry. You can use the dried parts in a nice tea (see Tea from Scraps, here). Having a couple pots of Herbs indoors also saves a lot of waste since you need only pick what you need that day.
MAKES 1 CUP / ACTIVE TIME: 5 MIN / TOTAL TIME: OVERNIGHT
Herb oils add both depth and nuance to dishes, and they are so simple to make. Use leftover packets and odd bits of herbs. Thyme oil is essential to the Wilted Romaine Cream Sauce recipe (here), and complements many other proteins: fish and meat as well as vegetable dishes.
1 bunch (¼ cup) thyme leaves and parts
1 cup neutral oil, such as grapeseed or safflower
In a blender, combine the thyme and oil at high speed for a few seconds, until just turning green. Strain into a small bowl through a fine mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth. Keep the strainer in the bowl and refrigerate overnight to let the thyme slowly infuse into the oil. The oil should become a brilliant green. Store in a dark container in the refrigerator for up to a month.
MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS / TIME: 5 MIN
Dill is not as strongly flavored as thyme, although still nicely aromatic. So you can use a greater proportion of dill scraps, wilt, and stems here without requiring as long an infusion. This oil is a very important element of the Whey and Dill Oil dressing used in the Brussels sprout recipe here; it works as well with fish, in a rice salad, or with eggs.
½ cup neutral oil
1 cup fresh dill scraps, (stems, wilted fronds) plus a fresh frond for garnish
1 teaspoon vinegar
Pinch of sugar
Combine all of the ingredients in a blender and puree until thoroughly mixed. Store in the refrigerator for up to a week.
MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS / TIME: 15 MIN
High-quality butter is very important in Denmark and is commonly flavored with herbs and grasses, then smeared over thick bread.
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened at room temperature
¼ cup wilted chopped parsley leaves and stems
½ to 1 cup finely chopped kale or beet stems
¼ cup or more chopped thyme stems and leaves (no need to measure exactly, but the more herbs, the stronger the flavor; you can also substitute rosemary or sage)
2 teaspoons grated lemon zest
2 cloves garlic, chopped
½ teaspoon kosher salt
In a medium bowl, combine all the ingredients and beat with a fork. Let stand at least 2 hours in the refrigerator to let the flavors infuse. Spread over warm charred or toasted bread. Refrigerate leftovers for up to 5 days.
TESTER’S NOTE:
I tried some store-bought herb butter to compare—this “make it yourself from scraps” version had so much more flavor. There was no comparison.