APPLES

ALTHOUGH YOU CAN STILL FIND the wild species of some crabapples, the familiar large fleshy apple has been cultivated around the world for centuries. In 2016 more than 6.5 million tons of apples are expected to be produced worldwide, with 4.5 million tons in the United States alone. The cores and skins of the apple are often discarded but are completely edible. In fact, botanically speaking, the apple has no hard core; the inner area is known as the pericarp. The seeds do contain trace amounts of cyanide (700 mg per kilo) and if consumed in large amounts (100 grams) are toxic. Thus, this is the only element of the apple to be avoided.

Apples store well. When individually wrapped in newspaper and kept in cold storage (35° to 40°F), they can last the winter. But one bruised apple in a bin can spread rot to other apples and should be removed.

FALLEN FRUIT DESSERT

SERVES 4 / ACTIVE TIME: 30 MIN / TOTAL TIME: 12 HRS

Every autumn in Denmark I would walk around the apple orchards where fruit was scattered all over the ground. It made me hungry, and I couldn’t help picking some up to bite into them. I wanted to capture this feeling for other people, so I made a dessert I call Fallen Fruit.

It’s simple: Apple wedges, dried until they turn chocolate brown, develop intense flavor. Set them on a cool green ice granita, and they look like fruit that has just fallen to the ground.

Drying apples intensifies the apple flavor. Use a dehydrator at 135°F, or preheat the oven at the lowest setting.

Bring the cider to a boil in a large saucepan. Add the apple wedges, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 8 minutes, until just tender, not falling apart.

Spread the mixture on a sheet pan and dehydrate at 135°F (or in the oven) for 12 hours, until soft. Keep refrigerated until ready to use (no more than 2 days).

Make a quince paste, if you like: Bring the water and sugar to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the quince, reduce the heat, and simmer for 30 minutes, or until very soft. Transfer to a blender and puree.

To serve: Spoon the granita into individual bowls, add the dried fruit with a spoon of the quince puree, and scatter the spruce needles over top.