PUMPKIN

IN OCTOBER THERE ARE so many pumpkins for sale for carving and decoration. (In fact, every year Americans buy about 1.1 billion pounds of pumpkins, according to the National Agricultural Statistics Service.) Seeing all this American plenty got me energized to cook them. Whole pumpkins come in so many different shapes, sizes, and colors, so rather than developing a one-size-fits-all recipe, I came up with two different cooking methods, based on size. We are not going to mislead you into thinking there is a secret equation that x pounds of pumpkin equals x cups of puree. Larger pumpkins can have less puree if they are hollow. Some small pumpkin varieties have more flesh.

ROASTED SMALL OR MEDIUM PUMPKIN

MAKES 1–4 CUPS PUREE / ACTIVE TIME: 15 MIN / INACTIVE TIME: 1½ TO 2 HRS

1 small to medium pumpkin—anything under 7 pounds and less than a foot across (vertically or horizontally)

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Cut slits in the top of the pumpkin for ventilation. Place on a baking sheet and roast for 1½ to 2 hours, until the top sags down. Don’t worry about overcooking a bit. Let cool.

Scoop out the seeds and pulp and set aside. When scooping, reserve the skin as well as the thin layer of flesh next to the skin for Pumpkin Skin Powder (here).

When thoroughly cooked, puree in a food processor until coarsely smooth. Refrigerate in a closed container for a few days or freeze for up to six months.