TOMATOES

THE TOMATO IS THE berry-like fruit of the tomato vine or bush. Tomatoes must be stored at room temperature (not in the refrigerator) in order to retain their flavor. Unpackaged tomatoes become overripe and mushy in a matter of days, making them no longer prime for slicing raw. But this juiciness and flavor can be preserved for wonderful effect.

Parts of the tomato fruit, other than the flesh, are not only perfectly fine to eat, but highly nutritious. The skins have significantly higher levels of phenolics, flavonoids, ascorbic acid, and antioxidants compared to the pulp. Some studies have found that as much as 30 percent of the weight of the tomato is wasted when the skin, core, and seeds are removed for processing tomatoes into paste.

TOMATO BROTH (DASHI)

MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS / ACTIVE TIME: 10 MIN / INACTIVE TIME: 2½ HRS

This light dashi extracts the flavor of tomatoes and provides a wonderful base to any number of soups. I use it with the Fish Head & Tail Soup (here). The flavor can also be concentrated by reducing the broth, then adding vinegar to make a vinaigrette.

2 quarts water

1 (4-ounce) package dried konbu

10 unwanted (i.e., green, ugly, overripe, mushy) tomatoes, moldy parts cut away

½ teaspoon kosher salt

In a large pot, simmer the water and konbu over low heat for 30 minutes, making sure it does not boil. Remove from heat and discard the konbu. Add the tomatoes and simmer over low heat for 2 hours. Strain (save the pulp for Fish Head & Tail Soup, here). Season with salt to taste. Refrigerate in a plastic lidded container for up to a month.