CHAPTER 7

DAIRY: THE MANY FACES OF MILK

For centuries most cultures considered milk a precious drink, and so each one (with the exception of East Asian cuisines) developed ways to conserve, ferment, and use all of its parts.

 

FRESH MILK GENERALLY COMES from cows, goats, sheep, or yaks. Before modern commercial pasteurization and homogenization, raw milk would have a thick layer of cream on top, which was skimmed off to make butter and buttermilk. The remaining skimmed milk was used as the basis for making hard cheese—through a process of salting, drying, and aging—which would last the winter.

As milk ages, the proteins that keep it smooth and creamy start to bind and clump, or curdle, and it begins to separate into curds and whey. Don’t automatically throw it out if this happens. The curds are the lumps, and the whey is the thin liquid. (The same curdling effect can be created by adding lemon juice and vinegar to milk to make a rustic home version of ricotta cheese or paneer.) Curds and whey may look unappetizing, but that does not necessarily mean the milk is spoiled. Curds are the basis for making fresh cottage cheese. The liquidy whey is used in a variety of dishes and is a staple of Nordic cuisine.

After the separation into curds and whey has occurred, milk may begin to turn “sour,” i.e., it tastes a little off, but it can still be used in baking. Milk need not be thrown away until it is spoiled: It will smell bad or start to collect mold. Milk is also fermented (not curdled) into yogurt, which coagulates based on the action of two lactobacilli (good bacteria). Whey can also be fermented into kefir, a yogurt-y drink found mainly in Eastern Europe.

 

YOGURT

THERE ARE SO MANY WAYS to enjoy yogurt other than in a cup with jam. Part of the reason yogurt is so wonderful to work with is that it doesn’t spoil easily. It can last 2 to 3 weeks unopened in the fridge. Just check to make sure it has not gone moldy. Yogurt can also be frozen and used in baking.

SALTED YOGURT

MAKES 2 CUPS / TIME: 5 MIN

Yogurt is not just a sweet breakfast food, with berries or jam stirred up from the bottom of a prepackaged container. Add some salt to yogurt and it has a tang that is a great marinade for meats, or as a savory dip topped with some fresh herbs such as mint or dill.

2 cups yogurt (past expiration date is OK)

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon Maldon salt

Freshly cracked black pepper

Mix the yogurt, oil, and salt together in a small bowl. Garnish with pepper and serve.

WHIPPED YOGURT

MAKES 4 1-CUP SERVINGS / TIME: 1 HR

This chilled yogurt is like a fluffy cloud; it works well in the Carrot Top Granita (here) as well as other light desserts.

1 cup heavy cream

2 egg yolks

2 tablespoons sugar

1 gelatin sheet (I recommend leaf gelatin sheets with 200 bloom for the most consistent firmness), softened in cold water for a few minutes

2 cups plain yogurt

In a medium saucepan, heat the cream over medium heat for 5 minutes, until hot to the touch. In a large bowl, mix the egg yolks and sugar, then whisk in the heated cream. Once incorporated, pour the contents of the bowl back into the pot. Cook over medium heat, stirring continuously, for 3 minutes, until the mixture is slightly thickened and coats the back of a wooden spoon.

Squeeze out any excess water from the gelatin and whisk into the warm custard. Pour the custard into a bowl and fold in the yogurt. Chill in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes.

Right before serving, whip the yogurt mixture with a mixer for 1 to 2 minutes, until light and fluffy.