What’s more horrifying than being called “crater face” when you’re a teenager? Being called “crater face” by your teenager. It’s a particularly modern dilemma. “The majority of people used to outgrow adolescent acne,” says Richard G. Fried, M.D., Ph.D., a dermatologist and clinical psychologist. After all, it’s usually sparked by an increase in testosterone during puberty. Oil and dead skin block the follicles, the tiny sacs that produce hair. Enter zits. “Now about half of adults have acne in some form, and many who never had significant acne develop it for the first time.”
Why are so many of us having Oxy moments? Pollution, new medications and hormone-pumped meats are among the potential culprits, experts say. “However, the one common denominator we see among adult acne patients is stress,” says Linda K. Franks, M.D., medical director of Gramercy Park Dermatology in New York City. “People are juggling work and family, and generally have busier lives than ever before.”
Women are more often affected than men, due to age-related hormonal changes (exacerbated by stress) and increased oil production in the skin (courtesy of the sebaceous glands, which are tweaked by…stress), not to mention certain birth control options, pregnancy, perimenopause and menopause. And ironically, your skin may be drier and less resilient due to the treatments you relied on during adolescence, such as benzoyl peroxide or Retin-A.
Stressed yet?
You’re not alone. Forty-five percent of women between ages 21 and 30 had clinical acne, in a 2011 study by Massachusetts General Hospital, as did a quarter of those between 31 and 40. That’s on par with a University of Alabama study from a few years previous. Fortunately, a variety of do-it-yourself natural approaches can gently but effectively target acne.
It’s important to treat delicate, acne-prone skin gently. Wash your face twice a day, not more, and no harsh scrubbing; choose oil-free noncomedogenic moisturizers and makeup; and try the following:
HOW IT WORKS: Opens pores to release blockages, including oil and dead skin cells, that can lead to pustules.
HOW TO USE IT: Pour boiling water over a handful of strawberry leaves, eucalyptus, thyme and wintergreen. Place a towel over your head to trap the steam and lean over the bowl for 10 to 15 minutes.
HOW IT WORKS: Also opens pores.
HOW TO USE IT: Combine a tablespoon of kaolin clay or Fuller’s Earth with rose water to form a paste; spread it over your face, leave on for 10 minutes and rinse with tepid water.
HOW IT WORKS: Antimicrobial action fights the bugs that can contribute to breakouts.
HOW TO USE IT: Apply a 15% solution to blemishes (unbroken skin only) twice a day.
HOW IT WORKS: Acts as an antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory; helps heal damaged skin.
HOW TO USE IT: Apply an herbal ointment or a tea directly to the blemishes.
HOW IT WORKS: Contains antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and astringent (pore-shrinking) properties.
HOW TO USE IT: Apply to skin after washing.
For years, the common belief was that diet had no effect on acne. That may be wrong, according to recent research.
HOW THEY WORK: Carbohydrates with a high glycemic index (GI) are digested rapidly, causing blood sugar (glucose) and insulin levels to spike. This may influence the development and severity of acne, an Australian study found. Conversely, a diet high in protein and low-GI carbohydrates (complex carbs) seemed to decrease the frequency and intensity of breakouts.
HOW TO GET THEM: Minimize your intake of sugars (sucrose, fructose, corn syrup); processed and refined foods; white rice and bread; and pasta and baked goods made with white flour. Instead, eat plenty of whole-grain products, including breads, cereals and brown rice; beans, lentils and split peas; and fruits and vegetables.
HOW THEY WORK: A report published in the journal Lipids in Health and Disease suggests that by suppressing inflammation throughout the body, omega-3 fatty acids may help control inflammatory acne, a severe form of the condition.
HOW TO GET THEM: Cold-water oily fish, such as salmon and sardines; flaxseeds; and omega-3 supplements.