Ingredients

Beancurd (Tofu)

You will need the solid form of beancurd for stir-frying. Beancurd ‘cakes’ are white in colour and are sold in supermarkets, Chinese grocer’s and healthfood shops. They are packed in water in plastic containers and may be kept in this state in the refrigerator for up to 5 days, provided the water is changed daily. To use solid beancurd, cut it into cubes or shreds with a sharp knife. Do this with care, as it is delicate. It also needs to be cooked carefully, as too much stirring can cause it to crumble.

Black beans

These small, black soya beans are preserved by being fermented with salt and spices, giving them a distinctive, slightly salty taste and a pleasant, rich smell. They make a tasty seasoning, especially when used in conjunction with garlic or fresh ginger. They are inexpensive and can be obtained from Chinese grocers, usually in cans labelled ‘black beans in salted sauce’. Rinse them before use; I prefer to chop them slightly, too, as it helps to release their pungent flavour. If you transfer any unused beans and liquid to a sealed jar, they will keep indefinitely in the refrigerator.

Chilli bean sauce

This thick, dark sauce or paste is made from soya beans, chilli peppers and other seasonings, and is very hot and spicy. Be sure to seal the jar tightly after use and store in the larder or refrigerator. Do not confuse it with chilli sauce, which is a hotter, redder, thinner condiment made without beans.

Chilli peppers

Fresh chilli peppers

To prepare fresh chilli peppers, rinse them in cold water, then slit them lengthways with a small, sharp knife. Remove and discard the seeds. Rinse the chilli peppers again under cold running water and then prepare them according to the recipe. Wash your hands, knife and chopping board before preparing other foods, and be careful not to touch your eyes until you have washed your hands thoroughly.

Dried red chilli peppers

The dried red chilli peppers used in China are usually small, thin and about 1 cm (½ inch) long. They are normally left whole or cut in half lengthways with the seeds left in and used to season oil. They can be found in oriental shops and most supermarkets and will keep indefinitely in a sealed jar.

Chilli powder

Chilli powder is made from dried red chilli peppers and is used in many spicy dishes. As with chilli peppers in general, add it according to taste.

Chinese dried mushrooms

There are many varieties of these, either black or brown, but the very large, pale ones with a cracked surface are the best. They are available in boxes or plastic bags from Chinese grocers. Store in an airtight jar.

To use dried mushrooms, soak them in a bowl of warm water for about 20 minutes, until they are soft and pliable. Squeeze out the excess water, then cut off and discard the woody stems. Only the caps should be used. The soaking water can be strained and saved for use in soups and cooking rice.

Citrus peel

Dried citrus peel, made from tangerines or oranges, is used extensively in Chinese cookery to flavour braised and smoked dishes. The peel also adds an intense aroma and taste to stir-fried dishes. Drying the peel concentrates the flavour, but you can use the same quantity of fresh peel if necessary.

Chinese dried citrus peel can be found in Chinese grocer’s shops; however, it is simple to make your own. Peel the skin off a tangerine or orange, scraping away as much of the white parts as possible, or coarsely grate the skin. Lay the peel on kitchen paper and dry it in the sun, in an airing cupboard or in a warm but unlit oven, until it is dry and hard. Store in a tightly sealed container in a cool, dry place.

To use dried citrus peel, soak it in warm water until it softens, then chop or slice it according to the recipe. Add grated peel without soaking it first.

Cloud ears

These tiny, black, dried leaves are also known as Chinese tree fungus. They are valued for their crunchy texture and slightly smoky flavour. You should be able to find them at Chinese markets, usually wrapped in plastic bags. They keep indefinitely in a jar stored in a cool, dry place. Before use, soak them in hot water for 20–30 minutes until soft, then rinse well, cutting away any hard bits.

Fish sauce

Fish sauce, or nam pla, is also known as fish gravy. It is a thin, brown liquid made from fermented salted fish, usually anchovies, and has a noticeably fishy odour and salty taste. The Thai brands are especially good, with a less salty taste. Fish sauce is an inexpensive ingredient, so buy the best on offer.

Garlic

Select bulbs of garlic that are firm and preferably pinkish in colour. Store garlic in a cool, dry place but not in the refrigerator, where it can easily become mildewed or start sprouting.

Ginger

Select firm, unshrivelled pieces and peel off the skin before use. It will keep for about 2 weeks if well wrapped in cling film (plastic wrap) in the refrigerator. Most of the recipes in this book that require ginger specify that it should be finely shredded or chopped. For shredded ginger, thinly slice a piece lengthways, then stack and cut lengthways again into fine strips. To chop finely, turn the shredded ginger round and chop it horizontally.

Hoisin sauce

This thick, dark, brownish-red sauce, made from soya beans, vinegar, sugar, spices and other flavourings, is sweet and spicy. It is sold in cans and jars (sometimes labelled as barbecue sauce) and is available in Chinese shops and many supermarkets. If refrigerated, it should keep indefinitely.

Noodles

Bean thread (transparent noodles)

Also called cellophane noodles, these very fine, white noodles are made from ground mung beans. They are available dried, packed in neat, plastic-wrapped bundles, from Chinese shops.

Rice noodles

These dried noodles are opaque white and come in a variety of shapes and thicknesses. Rice noodles are easy to prepare: simply soak them in warm water for 20 minutes until they are soft, then drain in a colander or sieve. They are now ready to be used in stir-fries or soups.

Wheat noodles and egg noodles

Available dried or fresh, these are made from hard or soft wheat flour, water, and sometimes egg, in which case they are labelled egg noodles. Rounded ones are best for frying. If you are cooking noodles ahead of time or before stir-frying them, toss the cooked, drained noodles in 2 teaspoons of sesame oil and put them into a bowl. Cover with cling film (plastic wrap) and refrigerate for up to 2 hours.

Oils

Groundnut (Peanut) oil

This is also known as arachide oil. I prefer to use it for Asian cookery because it has a pleasant, unobtrusive taste. Although it has a higher saturated fat content than some oils, its ability to be heated to a high temperature without burning makes it perfect for stir-frying. If you cannot find it, use corn oil instead.

Sesame oil

This thick, rich, golden-brown oil made from sesame seeds has a distinctive, nutty flavour and aroma. It is widely used in Chinese cookery as a seasoning but is not normally used as a cooking oil because it burns easily. Think of it more as a flavouring. A small amount is often added at the last moment to finish a dish.

Oyster sauce

This thick, brown sauce is made from a concentrate of oysters cooked in soy sauce and brine. Despite its name, it does not taste fishy. It is usually sold in bottles and can be bought in supermarkets. I find it keeps best in the refrigerator. A vegetarian ‘oyster’ sauce made with mushrooms is now available.

Peanuts

The thin, red skins of raw peanuts should be removed before use. To do this, simply immerse the nuts in a pan of boiling water for about 2 minutes, then drain and leave to cool; the skins will come off easily.

Prawns (Shrimp)

For most of the recipes in this book you will need medium-to-large raw, unshelled prawns. These are sweeter and more succulent than ready-cooked ones. Before cooking, they should be shelled and, if large, de-veined. To remove the shell, twist off the head and discard, then, using your fingers, break open the shell along the belly and peel it off. Run a small, sharp knife along the back of the prawn and pull out the dark intestinal vein. The tail shell can be left on for presentation.

Shaoxing rice wine

Rice wine is used extensively for cooking and drinking throughout China, but I believe the finest of its many varieties is from Shaoxing, in Zhejiang Province in eastern China. It is made from glutinous rice, yeast and spring water. Now readily available in the West in Chinese markets and some liquor stores, it should be kept tightly corked and at room temperature. A good-quality, pale, dry sherry can be substituted but cannot match its rich, mellow taste.

Shrimp paste

This is made from pulverized salted shrimp that has been left to ferment. The mixture is dried in the sun and cut into cakes. Although shrimp paste smells very assertive, remember that the cooking process quickly tames its aroma and taste. It is available in both Thai and Chinese food shops but the best brands come from Thailand. Shrimp paste will last indefinitely if stored, wrapped, in the refrigerator.

Sichuan peppercorns

Sichuan peppercorns are reddish-brown in colour and have a pungent odour that distinguishes them from the hotter black peppercorns. They don’t actually come from peppers at all, but are the dried berries of a shrub that is a member of the citrus family. They are inexpensive and sold wrapped in cellophane or plastic bags in Chinese grocer’s shops. They will keep indefinitely if stored in a well-sealed container.

To roast Sichuan peppercorns, heat a wok or heavy frying pan to a medium heat. Add the peppercorns (you can roast about 150 g/5 oz ( cup) at a time) and stir-fry for about 5 minutes, until they brown slightly and start to smoke. Remove from the heat and let them cool. Grind the peppercorns in a pepper mill or with a mortar and pestle. Keep the mixture tightly sealed in a screw-top jar. Alternatively, keep the whole roasted peppercorns in a well-sealed container and grind them when required. Please note that Sichuan peppercorns are not available in America. Instead, you can substitute half the quantity with black peppercorns and the remaining half with aniseed.

Soy sauce

Soy sauce is made from a mixture of soya beans, flour and water, which is then fermented naturally and aged for some months. The liquid that is finally distilled is soy sauce.

There are two main types. Light soy sauce, as the name implies, is light in colour, but it is full of flavour and is the better one to use for cooking. It is saltier than dark soy sauce, and is known in Chinese grocer’s shops as Superior Soy. Dark soy sauce, confusingly, is known as Soy Superior Sauce. It is aged for much longer than light soy sauce, hence its darker, almost black colour, and is also slightly thicker and stronger.

Spring onions (Scallions)

The recipes in this book specify a variety of ways to prepare spring onions (scallions or green onions) for cooking and for garnish. First, peel off the outer layer if it is bruised or damaged. Trim the tops and bottoms and remove any damaged green tops. Rinse well to remove any dirt. To chop finely, split into quarters lengthways, then chop into small pieces horizontally. To shred, cut the onions in half horizontally, then split very finely lengthways.

Vinegar

Vinegars are widely used in Chinese cooking. Unlike Western vinegars, they are usually made from rice. There are many varieties, ranging in flavour from the spicy and slightly tart to the sweet and pungent. All these vinegars can be bought in Chinese grocers and will keep indefinitely. If you cannot get Chinese vinegars, I suggest you use cider vinegar. Malt vinegar can be used, but its taste is stronger and more acidic.

White rice vinegar

White rice vinegar is clear and mild in flavour. It has a faint taste of glutinous rice and is used for sweet-and-sour dishes.

Black rice vinegar

Black rice vinegar is very dark in colour and rich, though mild, in taste. It is used for braised dishes, sauces, and sometimes as a dipping sauce for crab.

Red rice vinegar

Red rice vinegar is sweet and spicy in taste and is often used as a dipping sauce for seafood.

Water chestnuts

Water chestnuts are white, sweet, crunchy bulbs about the size of a walnut. They are sold in cans in many supermarkets and have a good texture but little taste. Rinse them well in cold water before use and store any unused ones in a jar of water. They will keep for several weeks in the refrigerator if you change the water daily.