12 PUNK’S NOT DEAD: Felted Earflap Hat with I-Cords and Mohawk Fringe
17 LUCKY 13: Felted Earflap Hat
25 GOD SAVE THE QUEEN: Felted Earflap Hat with I-Cords and Mohawk Fringe
punk’sthis is the signature hat of our company, knit-head. it was inspired in part by one of our favorite designers, the irreverent john galliano, as well as by the quintessential punk-rock hairstyle, the mohawk. after we presented depeche mode with these hats, the band added them to their onstage ensemble. this hat, most of all, captures our love of punk attitude and style.
MATERIALS
» Size 10½ needles for small hat (size 11 for medium hat, size 13 for large hat), or size required to get correct gauge
» 2 stitch ring markers
» Row counter, optional
» Size 11 double-pointed needles
» Size 1 crochet hook
» Darning needle
» 2 skeins black bulky-weight wool yarn (Brown Sheep Co., Lamb’s Pride Bulky, 85% wool, 15% mohair, Onyx, M05)
» 1 skein hot pink bulky-weight wool yarn (Brown Sheep Co., Lamb’s Pride Bulky, 85% wool, 15% mohair, Lotus Pink, M38)
GAUGE (IN STOCKINETTE STITCH)
» 13 stitches and 17 rows make a 4-inch square on size 10½ needles, before felting
» 12 stitches and 16 rows make a 4-inch square on size 11 needles, before felting
» 11 stitches and 15 rows make a 4-inch square on size 13 needles, before felting
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
» Size small fits 18- to 20-inch head circumference
» Size medium fits 20- to 22-inch head circumference
» Size large fits 22-inch and larger head circumference
SKILLS & METHODS
» Crochet (single)
» Felting
» Fringe
» I-cord
» Stockinette stitch
This hat is assembled out of 4 pieces. First, you will knit the 2 side pieces. Next, you will pick up stitches at the bottom edge of each piece and knit the earflaps directly on, finishing with an I-cord on both. Then you will attach the 2 sides by sewing them together along the center seam. Finally, you will attach a fringe to the end of each I-cord and 2 rows of staggered fringe on either side of the hat’s center seam for the Mohawk.
To begin, cast on 30 stitches in black yarn on regular needles. Work in stockinette stitch for 21 rows. On the 22nd row (wrong side), place a stitch ring marker after the 14th stitch and after the 16th stitch. To create the rounded dome of the hat, there are 2 steps you will do simultaneously—decreases in the center as well as decreases on the side edges as follows:
row 23: Knit 2 together before first stitch marker and after second stitch marker; 28 stitches remain.
row 24: Purl without any decreasing; 28 stitches remain.
row 25: Knit 2 together at beginning and end of the row as well as before the first stitch marker and after the second stitch marker; 24 stitches remain.
row 26: Purl without any decreasing; 24 stitches remain.
row 27: Knit 2 together before the first stitch marker and after the second stitch marker; 22 stitches remain.
row 28: Purl 2 together at the beginning and end of the row; 20 stitches remain.
row 29: Knit 2 together before the first stitch marker and after the second stitch marker; 18 stitches remain.
row 30: Purl 2 together at the beginning and end of the row; 16 stitches remain.
row 31: Knit 2 together before the first stitch marker and after the second stitch marker; 14 stitches remain.
row 32: Purl 2 together at the beginning and end of the row; 12 stitches remain.
row 33: On this row, remove the stitch markers as you make your decreases. Knit 2 together twice at the beginning and end of the row; 8 stitches remain.
row 34: Purl 2 together at the beginning and end of the row; 6 stitches remain.
row 35: Bind off 6 stitches on this knit row.
To make the earflaps, use regular needles to pick up 17 stitches on the bottom edge of each piece, starting at the fourth stitch for the right side of the hat and the 9th stitch for the left side of the hat. Work 3 rows in stockinette stitch. For the side decreases, knit or purl 2 together at the beginning and end of rows 4, 7, 10, 12, 14, 15, and 16; 3 stitches remain. Transfer your knitting to size 11 double-pointed needles to make the I-cord. Take the needle with the knitting in your left hand, and slide all the stitches to the right end of the needle. Pull the yarn from the left side of the work across the back, and knit the first right-hand stitch. Knit to the end. Slide your work to the right end of the needle again, and repeat until the I-cord is approximately 12 inches long. Bind off.
Place the 2 pieces together, right sides facing each other, and stitch with a darning needle and about 20 inches of black yarn. This seam joins the 2 halves of the hat. Weave all of the loose strands into the back of the knitting. Turn right-side out.
Now for the fun part! Fringe-mania!
You will cut individual strands of yarn to form fringes. Each strand should measure 8 inches. For the I-cords and Mohawk, you will need a total of 34 sets of fringe—1 set for each I-cord and 32 sets for the Mohawk. Each set consists of 4 pink strands and 6 black strands of yarn. To do this quickly and precisely, all you need is a 4-inch-by-4-inch piece of cardboard and a pair of scissors. Take the black yarn, hold its end at the bottom edge of the cardboard, and wrap the yarn around the cardboard 6 times. Snip it horizontally across the bottom. Next, take the pink yarn, and wrap it around the cardboard 4 times. Snip it horizontally across the bottom. Add these 4 strands of pink yarn to the 6 strands of black yarn, and you have your first set. Repeat 34 times.
For the I-cord, insert your crochet hook through 2 loops at the end of the I-cord. Fold 1 set of pink and black yarn in half. Hook the folded loop with your crochet hook, pull the loop through, and then pull all fringe ends through the loop to secure. Repeat this step to attach fringe to the end of the second I-cord.
And now for the pièce de résistance, the Mohawk. To begin your staggered fringes, begin on 1 side by inserting your crochet hook through the first stitch next to the seam in the fourth row. Hook, pull through toward you, and knot 1 set of fringe. The fringe knot should face the right side of the fabric. Following along the center seam, attach 1 fringe set every 4 rows. You will end up with 16 fringe sets on this side. Flip the hat over, and repeat as for the first side. Attach your second set of fringes on the opposite side of the center seam, in between the spaces created by the first set of 16 fringes. You will again end up with 16 fringe sets.
The last step is to felt the completed hat. We’re not experts at felting, and we don’t really do it for the felted effect. Rather, we discovered that taking a chance and throwing a knitted piece into the washing machine sometimes improves the overall texture and feel of the fabric. This is especially true when there is an intarsia design; the slight bit of felting smoothes out some of the edges of color changes. It also creates a sturdier-feeling fabric, which is great for bags and hats. For this hat in particular, it creates a fantastic texture in the Mohawk “hair.” Please note that we encourage you to use your own favorite yarns to create these projects at home. However, you should be aware that synthetic fibers and superwash wools do not felt. If you’d like to create this look in acrylic yarn, we suggest using the wool/mohair blend yarn for the Mohawk and fringes only to achieve the same punk feel to the “hair.”
To felt this project, throw it into a washing machine, and wash on a hot cycle with no detergent. Remove the hat from the washing machine, and get ready to get out some aggression. You will find each fringe set has gotten quite clumpy. Do not despair! Take your time separating each strand by grabbing the strands and tearing them apart, down to the knot. You are left with one charged Mohawk, and you didn’t even have to shave your head! 
don’t let the bitter cold put a damper on your devilish demeanor. this hat helps you stay warm while you’re tempting fate!
MATERIALS
» Size 10½ knitting needles (size 11 for medium hat, size 13 for large hat), or size required to get correct gauge
» Yarn bobbins, optional
» 2 stitch ring markers
» Row counter, optional
» Darning needle
» Size H crochet hook
» 1 skein dark red bulky-weight wool yarn (Brown Sheep Co., Lamb’s Pride Bulky, 85% wool, 15% mohair, Spice, M145)
» 1 skein black bulky-weight wool yarn (Brown Sheep Co., Lamb’s Pride Bulky, 85% wool, 15% mohair, Onyx, M05)
GAUGE (IN STOCKINETTE STITCH)
» 13 stitches and 17 rows make a 4-inch square on size 10½ needles, before felting
» 12 stitches and 16 rows make a 4-inch square on size 11 needles, before felting
» 11 stitches and 15 rows make a 4-inch square on size 13 needles, before felting
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
» Size small fits 18- to 20-inch head circumference
» Size medium fits 20- to 22-inch head circumference
» Size large fits 22-inch and larger head circumference
SKILLS & METHODS
» Crochet (single)
» Duplicate stitch
» Felting
» Intarsia
» Stockinette stitch
This hat is assembled out of 5 pieces. First, you knit the 2 red sides of the hat. The earflaps are then knit directly on, and everything is stitched onto the black racing stripe running down the center. Finally, a black border is crocheted on, and the number 13 is stitched onto the spades with a darning needle.
Before beginning your knitting, divide your yarn so that you have 2 equal-sized red balls of yarn. For the left side of the hat, begin by casting on 28 stitches in the red yarn on regular needles. Work intarsia in stockinette stitch for 23 rows as shown on the left-side spade intarsia graph. If you prefer, you can wind a few yards of the black yarn onto a yarn bobbin, but this intarsia is so simple, it’s not too difficult to work with 3 balls of yarn. When the 23rd row is complete, cut the black yarn and 1 ball of red yarn. At this point you will need to begin a somewhat complicated set of decreases along the middle and ends of the work, so keep a piece of scrap paper handy. Place 2 stitch markers after the 13th stitch and after the 15th stitch on your needle in order to highlight the center seam along which your decreases will take place. You are essentially decreasing along a center seam every other row while simultaneously decreasing along the edges every third row 3 times, every other row 2 times, and then once again to end. One final note on the method of decreases: for the decreases along the ends of the work, we prefer to knit together the second and third stitch at the beginning of a row and the second- and third-to-last stitch at the end of a row in order to make a cleaner edge. Row-by-row instructions, rows 24 through 38:
row 24: Purl 2 together at the beginning and end of the row; 26 stitches remain.
row 25: Knit 2 together before the first stitch marker and after the second stitch marker; 24 stitches remain.
row 26: Purl without any decreasing; 24 stitches remain.
LEFT
RIGHT
DARNING
row 27: Knit 2 together at the beginning and end of the row as well as before the first stitch marker and after the second stitch marker; 20 stitches remain.
row 28: Purl without any decreasing; 20 stitches remain.
row 29: Knit 2 together before the first stitch marker and after the second stitch marker; 18 stitches remain.
row 30: Purl 2 together at the beginning and end of the row; 16 stitches remain.
row 31: Knit 2 together before the first stitch marker and after the second stitch marker; 14 stitches remain.
row 32: Purl without any decreasing; 14 stitches remain.
row 33: Knit 2 together at the beginning and end of the row as well as before the first stitch marker and after the second stitch marker; 10 stitches remain.
row 34: Purl without any decreasing; 10 stitches remain.
row 35: On this row, remove the stitch markers as you make your decreases. Knit 2 together at the beginning and end of the row as well as before the first stitch marker and after the second stitch marker; 6 stitches remain.
row 36: Purl without any decreasing; 6 stitches remain.
row 37: Knit 2 together at the beginning and end of the row; 4 stitches remain.
row 38: Bind off 4 stitches on this purl row.
For the right side, repeat as for the left, except follow the right-side intarsia graph. The picture is placed so that it is centered on the earflap and just off-center of the side of the hat.
For left earflap, take the left half of the hat, with the right side of the work facing you, and turn it upside down. Pick up 17 stitches along the edge of the hat with the red yarn, beginning at the fourth stitch. This counts as your first row of the earflap. Note that there is a slight break in the intarsia pattern of the bottom of the spade at this point. Do not worry—you will go back and correct this with a darning needle at the end. Beginning with the second row (wrong side), introduce the black yarn again and the second ball of red yarn, and follow the left intarsia graph while making decreases at the beginning and end of this row. Continue to work stockinette stitch, and decrease every third row until you have 5 stitches left. Bind off.
For the right earflap, follow the left-flap directions, with the exception of the location of the 17 picked-up stitches. For the right flap, begin picking up stitches at the ninth stitch from the left edge of the hat (see right intarsia graph).
To create the black racing stripe that acts as the center seam of your hat, cast on 4 stitches with the black yarn, and work in stockinette stitch for 76 rows. Bind off.
Using a darning needle and some black yarn, join all the pieces with black yarn using whatever sewing technique you prefer. Keep all pieces inside out as you assemble, so you have a neat finish when you turn the hat right-side out. After the joining, single crochet a row of black along the entire hat edge, earflaps included, with a crochet hook.
Your final detail is to embroider the number 13 on each side of the hat in red yarn using a darning needle and following the darning graph. The method we use is often referred to as a duplicate stitch. Simply insert the needle from the wrong side of the hat through the middle of the stitch located 1 below where the red duplicate stitch will end up. Pull yarn through, and insert from left to right along the 2 legs of the stitch 2 rows above the insertion point. Insert again back into the original point, and pull through. Repeat this as needed for coverage of each stitch where red should appear. Do this also with black yarn where the top of the spade stem should meet up with the bottom of the spade.
To felt, wash the hat by itself with no detergent in 1 cold water wash to shrink a bit and bring out the yarn’s fuzzy texture. 
redlet the trickster in you take flight in our stylized version of the classic aviator cap. this hat was inspired by snoopy’s red baron persona. as far as cartoon characters go, that dog has serious punk-rock attitude and style!
MATERIALS
» Size 10½ knitting needles (size 11 for medium hat, size 13 for large hat), or size required to get correct gauge
» 2 stitch ring markers
» Row counter, optional
» Size 0 crochet hook
» Darning needle
» 1 snap fastener
» 1 skein off-white bulky-weight wool yarn (Brown Sheep Co., Lamb’s Pride Bulky, 85% wool, 15% mohair, Oatmeal, M115)
» 1 skein red bulky-weight wool yarn (Brown Sheep Co., Lamb’s Pride Bulky, 85% wool, 15% mohair, Blue Blood Red, M80)
GAUGE (IN STOCKINETTE STITCH)
» 13 stitches and 17 rows make a 4-inch square on size 10½ needles
» 12 stitches and 16 rows make a 4-inch square on size 11 needles
» 11 stitches and 15 rows make a 4-inch square on size 13 needles
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
» Size small fits 18- to 20-inch head circumference
» Size medium fits 20- to 22-inch head circumference
» Size large fits 22-inch and larger head circumference
SKILLS & METHODS
» Crochet (single)
» Stockinette stitch
This hat is made up of 3 main pieces: 1 center and 2 sides. Earflaps are knit directly onto the bottom edge of each side piece. Each side piece is then joined to the center piece with a raised single crocheted seam. A single crochet trim is added around the edge of the hat, including the earflaps. Next, a 4-inch chinstrap is knit directly onto the bottom edge of the right earflap, and metal snap hardware is secured to the end of the chinstrap and the center bottom of the left earflap. Finally, 2 crocheted circles are attached over each earflap with a darning needle as an accent and for added warmth.
For the side pieces, cast on 24 stitches in off-white yarn. Work 22 rows in stockinette stitch. On the 22nd row (wrong side), place a stitch ring marker after the 14th stitch and after the 16th stitch. To create the rounded dome of the hat, there are 2 steps you will do simultaneously—decreases in the center as well as decreases on the side. Again, we suggest you knit 2 together on the second and third stitches for the beginning of the row or the second- and third-to-last stitches at the end of the row.
row 23: Knit 2 together before the first stitch marker and after the second stitch marker; 22 stitches remain.
row 24: Purl.
row 25: Knit 2 together at the beginning and end of the row, as well as before the first stitch marker and after the second stitch marker; 18 stitches remain.
row 26: Purl.
row 27: Knit 2 together before the first stitch marker and after the second stitch marker; 16 stitches remain.
row 28: Purl 2 together at the beginning and end of the row; 14 stitches remain.
row 29: Knit 2 together before the first stitch marker and after the second stitch marker; 12 stitches remain.
row 30: Purl 2 together at the beginning and end of the row; 10 stitches remain.
row 31: Knit 2 together before the first stitch marker and after the second stitch marker; 8 stitches remain.
row 32: Purl 2 together at the beginning and end of the row; 6 stitches remain.
row 33: Knit 2 together at the beginning and end of the row; 4 stitches remain.
Bind off. Repeat to create the second side piece.
For the center piece, cast on 8 stitches in the off-white yarn. Work 68 rows in stockinette stitch. Bind off.
For the earflaps, pick up the first 15 stitches for the right side and the last 15 stitches for the left side—these count as your first row of each earflap. Decrease by knitting 2 together at the beginning and end of every third row until you have 5 stitches left. Bind off.
To assemble, place the right side together with the center piece, wrong sides facing each other. With the red yarn, join the 2 pieces by single crocheting them together through every other stitch. This is an intentional raised seam. Repeat with the left side.
To tie the piece together, single crochet red trim into every other stitch around the perimeter of the hat.
For the chinstrap, pick up the 4 center stitches of the red trim at the base of the right earflap. Work 23 rows in stockinette stitch. Bind off.
To create the circle motifs, chain 2 with the red yarn. Single crochet 6 times into the first loop. Join the round with a slip stitch, and chain 1 to establish the next round. Single crochet twice into every stitch, making a 12-stitch round. Join the round with a slip stitch, and chain 1 to establish the next round. Work a single crochet stitch into the first stitch, then work 2 stitches into every other stitch to create an 18-stitch round. Join with a slip stitch, and chain 1 to establish the final round. Again, begin with a single crochet into the first stitch, then work 2 stitches into every other stitch to create a 27-stitch round. Join with a slip stitch, cut yarn leaving approximately 8 inches, and pull through to finish off. Repeat to create a second circle. Next, center each circle so that half is on the hat and half is on the earflap. Stitch the circles to the piece using your darning needle and the 8-inch strand of yarn. Turn the hat inside out, and weave all the loose ends into the back of the knitting.
To finish, we picked up an inexpensive snap kit at a local yarn shop and secured the top part of the snap to the end of the chinstrap and the base part to the bottom center of the left earflap. Feel free to do the same, or use a closure of your choice! 
god savea variation on our “punk’s not dead” hat, this is the ultimate tribute to punk-rock music and the country that spawned many of our favorite bands, including the sex pistols. guaranteed to garner you stares, smiles, and more attention than you can handle!
MATERIALS
» Size 10½ needles for small hat (size 11 for medium hat, size 13 for large hat), or size required to get correct gauge
» Yarn bobbins, optional
» Row counter, optional
» Size 11 double-pointed needles
» Darning needle
» Size I crochet hook
» 1 skein blue bulky-weight wool yarn (Brown Sheep Co., Lamb’s Pride Bulky, 85% wool, 15% mohair, Blue Boy, M79)
» 1 skein white bulky-weight wool yarn (Brown Sheep Co., Lamb’s Pride Bulky, 85% wool, 15% mohair, Creme, M10)
» 1 skein red bulky-weight wool yarn (Brown Sheep Co., Lamb’s Pride Bulky, 85% wool, 15% mohair, Ruby Red, M180)
GAUGE (IN STOCKINETTE STITCH)
» 13 stitches and 17 rows make a 4-inch square on size 10½ needles, before felting
» 12 stitches and 16 rows make a 4-inch square on size 11 needles, before felting
» 11 stitches and 15 rows make a 4-inch square on size 13 needles, before felting
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
» Size small fits 18- to 20-inch head circumference
» Size medium fits 20- to 22-inch head circumference
» Size large fits 22-inch and larger head circumference
SKILLS & METHODS
» Felting
» Fringe
» I-cord
» Intarsia
» Stockinette stitch
Like our “Punk’s Not Dead” hat, this is assembled out of 4 pieces. Although this version is intarsia-heavy and somewhat time-consuming, the finished piece makes it all worthwhile. First you will knit the 2 side pieces. Next you will pick up stitches at the bottom edge of each piece and knit the earflaps directly on, finishing with an I-cord on both. Then you will attach the 2 sides by sewing them together along the center seam. Finally, you will attach fringe to the end of each I-cord and 2 rows of fringe along the center seam, with colors corresponding to the flag design for the Mohawk.
To begin, prepare 4 balls of blue yarn, 6 balls of white yarn, and 3 balls of red yarn. Use yarn bobbins if you prefer, or just keep separate balls of yarn. Cast on 30 stitches in the following order: 3 blue, 2 white, 2 red, 1 white, 3 blue, 2 white, 5 red, 2 white, 3 blue, 1 white, 2 red, 1 white, and 3 blue on regular needles. This counts as the first row of the right intarsia graph. Work rows 2 to 24 in stockinette stitch, following the right intarsia graph. To create the rounded dome, you will only decrease along the side edges so as to retain the red cross in the center. When decreasing, we suggest knitting or purling the second and third stitches together as well as the second- and third-to-last stitches together to maintain a clean edge. Continue following the intarsia graph, decreasing at the beginning and end of rows 25, 27, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, and 38; 6 stitches will remain. Bind off. Repeat to create second piece.
To create the earflaps, pick up 17 stitches on the bottom edge of the piece, starting at the sixth stitch for the right side of the hat. Following the right intarsia graph, the yarn color order will be 1 red, 2 white, 3 blue, 2 white, 5 red, 2 white, and 2 blue. For the left side of the hat, pick up 17 stitches across the bottom, starting at the 10th stitch. The yarn color order will be 2 blue, 2 white, 5 red, 2 white, 3 blue, 2 white, and 1 red. The following instructions apply to both earflaps: Following the intarsia graph, work 4 rows in stockinette stitch. Begin side edge decreases at the beginning and end of rows 5, 8, 11, 14, and 17. On row 20, the last row of your earflap, use the red yarn only. Knit the first 3 stitches together, knit the fourth stitch, and then knit the last 3 stitches together. You are left with 3 red stitches. Transfer your knitting to double-pointed needles to make the I-cord. Take the needle with the knitting in your left hand, and slide all the stitches to the right end of the needle. Pull the yarn from the left side of the work across the back, and knit the first right-hand stitch. Knit to the end. Slide your work to the right end of the needle, and repeat until the I-cord is approximately 12 inches long. Bind off.
Lay the 2 pieces together, right sides facing each other, and stitch together along the outer seam with your darning needle and a length of yarn, making sure the edges of the flag design line up. Weave all of the loose strands into the back of the knitting. Turn right-side out.
For the fringe, cut 6-inch strands of yarn according to the following instructions. Since the I-cords are solid red, we did the I-cord fringe in blue and white. You will need 2 sets of fringe, each comprising 3 strands of white yarn and 3 strands of blue yarn. See the glossary for tips on cutting and knotting fringe. Insert your crochet hook through 2 strands at the end of the I-cord. Hook, pull through, and knot 1 set of white and blue yarn. Repeat this step to attach fringe to the end of the second I-cord.
The difference between the Mohawk on this hat and our “Punk’s Not Dead” is that it is a wee bit shorter and each fringe set varies in color and amount, corresponding to the overall flag design. Cut and lay out in order the following sets of 6-inch strands of yarn. You will need 2 sets of the following for the complete Mohawk (a total of 46 fringe sets, 23 on each side of the hat). To do this quickly and precisely, all you need is a 3-inch-by-3-inch piece of cardboard and a pair of scissors. Hold the yarn by its end at the bottom edge of the cardboard, and wrap it around the cardboard as many times as the number of strands outlined below. Snip horizontally across the bottom.
set 1: 10 blue strands
set 2: 10 blue strands
set 3: 6 white strands
set 4: 10 red strands
set 5: 6 white strands
set 6: 10 blue strands
set 7: 4 white strands
set 8: 5 red strands
set 9: 4 white strands
set 10: 10 blue strands
set 11: 6 white strands
set 12: 10 red strands
set 13: 6 white strands
set 14: 10 blue strands
set 15: 4 white strands
set 16: 5 red strands
set 17: 4 white strands
set 18: 10 blue strands
set 19: 6 white strands
set 20: 10 red strands
set 21: 6 white strands
set 22: 10 blue strands
set 23: 10 blue strands
Basically, you will attach 2 rows of fringe back-to-back on either side of the center seam in the order outlined above, corresponding to the flag pattern. For 1 side, insert your crochet hook through the first stitch next to the seam in the third row. Hook, pull through, and knot the first set. The fringe knot should face the right side of the fabric. Following along the center seam, attach each fringe set through the stitch next to the seam corresponding to the color of the flag design. You will end up with 23 fringe sets on this side. Flip the hat over, and repeat on the second side.
To felt, throw the finished hat into a washing machine wash on 1 hot cycle, without any detergent or conditioner. Remove the hat from the washing machine, and separate each I-cord fringe strand and each Mohawk fringe strand by grabbing 1 strand in each hand and tearing them apart, down to the knot. This will enhance the overall look of the Mohawk. 
LEFT
RIGHT
