30 SKA SKARF: Horizontal Multistriped Garter-Stitch Scarf
35 VAMP: Long, Thin Garter-Stitch Scarf with Crocheted Scalloped Edge
39 RUDE GIRL: Checkerboard Choker with Red Button Detail
the brilliant colors of this scarf are a tribute to ska’s jamaican roots. reggae beats were prevalent in music by many punk bands, including some of our favorites of all time, the clash and the police. we did this scarf in a garter stitch so the finished project won’t curl up.
MATERIALS
» 32-inch size 8 circular needle, or size required to get correct gauge
» Row counter, optional
» Darning needle
» 1 skein orange cotton/silk blend worsted-weight yarn (Noro Lily, 70% cotton, 30% silk, #13)
» 1 skein lime green cotton/silk blend worsted-weight yarn (Noro Lily, 70% cotton, 30% silk, #7)
» 1 skein olive green cotton/silk blend worsted-weight yarn (Noro Lily, 70% cotton, 30% silk, #6)
» 1 skein yellow cotton/silk blend worsted-weight yarn (Noro Lily, 70% cotton, 30% silk, #8)
GAUGE (IN GARTER STITCH)
» 14 stitches and 40 rows make a 4-inch square
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
» Approximately 86 inches by 4 inches
SKILLS & METHODS
» Garter stitch
Cast on 300 stitches in orange. Knit 5 rows. Cut off orange yarn, leaving a 3-inch strand. (Do this at every color switch.) Switch to lime green yarn, and knit 3 rows. Switch to olive green yarn, and knit 5 rows. Switch to yellow yarn, and knit 9 rows. Switch to orange yarn, and knit 3 rows. Switch to olive green yarn, and knit 3 rows. Switch to lime green yarn, and knit 5 rows. Switch to olive green yarn, and knit 1 row. Switch to yellow yarn, and knit 3 rows. Finally, switch to orange, and knit 1 row. Bind off. Use a darning needle to weave in all loose ends. 
ac/dc’s angus young showed that school uniforms aren’t just for school. this red tie adds a spot of color and sophistication to any outfit. customize it with pins of your favorite punk band logos, kilt pins, or other dramatic hardware.
MATERIALS
» Size 5 needles, or size required to get correct gauge
» Row counter, optional
» Size 0 crochet hook
» Darning needle
» 1 skein dark red worsted-weight wool yarn (Cascade 220, 100% Peruvian Highland wool, Ruby, #9404)
GAUGE (IN STOCKINETTE STITCH)
» 24 stitches and 32 rows make a 4-inch square
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
» 37¾ inches by 2½ inches at the widest part, and 1¼ inches at the narrowest part before crocheted edge and blocking; 46 inches by 3¼ inches at the widest part, and 1½ inches at the narrowest part after crocheted edge and blocking
SKILLS & METHODS
» Crochet (single)
» Stockinette stitch
» Felting
For this project, you will begin at the widest section of the tie. You will work in stockinette stitch for 286 rows (approximately 36 inches), making 8 sets of decreases along the way. Then you will pick up stitches on your cast-on row and knit the bottom triangle. Finally, you will finish with a single crocheted edge all around the perimeter of the tie.
Cast on 16 stitches. Work in stockinette stitch for 23 rows. You will then repeat a pattern of decrease rows throughout this pattern, where you knit or purl together the second and third stitches on the row as well as the second- and third-to-last stitches. Work these decrease rows on rows 24, 48, 72, and 96, while continuing to work stockinette stitch on all other rows. You will have 8 stitches remaining. Work rows 97 through 280 in stockinette stitch. If you’re not interested in counting from here on, that is about 24 inches after your last decrease row. On row 281, or 24 inches after decrease rows, you will work a decrease row again in order to shape the triangular end of the tie. Work decrease rows every other row until 2 stitches remain. Knit or purl these last 2 stitches together. Cut the end of the yarn, and pull through the remaining stitch. Finally, you will make the triangular shaping for the widest part of your tie. Simply pick up 16 stitches along your cast-on row. Then work decrease rows every other row until 2 stitches remain. Knit together your final 2 stitches, cut the yarn, and pull the end through remaining stitch.
For the trim, single crochet into every other stitch along the entire perimeter of the tie, beginning at the tip of the narrow triangular end. Use your darning needle to weave the loose threads into the back of the knitting.
To even out the stitches and lightly felt, agitate and massage the piece in alternating baths of cold water and hot water with conditioner, 3 times. Wring out and roll in a towel to remove excess moisture. Pin flat and let dry overnight. Press with a hot iron. 
as huge fans of vampire films, we got the idea for this scarf when we found the perfect blood-red yarn. unfortunately, the store only had one skein. we figured it was enough for a dramatically long and skinny scarf, but it turned out that some stretching and pulling were necessary to get it just right. the crocheted lace scalloped edge really adds a gothic flair.
MATERIALS
» Size 15 needles, or size required to get correct gauge
» Size J crochet hook
» Row counter, optional
» Darning needle
» 1 skein red alpaca bulky-weight yarn (Baby Alpaca Grande, 100% baby alpaca, Red, #2050)
» 1 skein black mohair worsted-weight yarn (Joseph Galler Yarns, Flore II, 75% kid mohair, 20% wool, 5% nylon, #015)
GAUGE (IN GARTER STITCH)
» 8 stitches and 8 rows make a 4-inch square (before stretching)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
» 79 inches by 3½ inches after stretching
SKILLS & METHODS
» Crochet (single, double, triple)
» Garter stitch
Cast on 10 stitches. Slip the first stitch of each row. This creates a neater edge along the sides and will be important when you crochet the lace edging. Knit 75 rows in garter stitch (or until you run out of yarn). You will have a short and boring scarf. Do not despair . . .
For this scarf, rinse in a cold water and conditioner bath, and wring out. You don’t have to be too careful since you will now stretch it out. Pull the scarf lengthwise with some force. You are essentially taking the garter stitches apart, without unraveling. Your scarf should now be almost twice as long and narrow. Place flat on a towel (no need to block), and let it dry completely.
Work edging using a crochet hook and the black mohair. Single crochet the black mohair once in each slipped edge stitch, once in each cast-on stitch, and once in each bind-off stitch all around the perimeter of the scarf. Chain through the first stitch to join the round. On the next round you will create the scallop as follows: single crochet into the first single crochet, double crochet into the next single crochet, triple crochet into the third single crochet, chain 3, slip stitch into the triple crochet just created, double crochet into the fourth single crochet, single crochet into the fifth single crochet, slip stitch into the next 2 single crochets (numbers 6 and 7), and begin this 7-stitch pattern all over again. Join with a final slip stitch to the first single crochet of the pattern. 
we designed this bold checkerboard scarf as a nod to our favorite ska bands of the 2-tone era. growing up in the ’80s, spending endless hours watching music videos, we were drawn to the distinct and sharp style of the specials, the english beat, and madness.
MATERIALS
» Size 7 knitting needles, or size required to get correct gauge
» Yarn bobbins, optional
» Row counter, optional
» Darning needle
» 2 red buttons (approximately ⅞-inch in diameter)
» 1 skein black DK/light worsted-weight yarn (Rowan Cashsoft DK, 57% extrafine merino, 33% micro-fiber, 10% cashmere, Black, #519)
» 1 skein white DK/light worsted-weight yarn (Rowan Cashsoft DK, 57% extrafine merino, 33% microfiber, 10% cashmere, Baby Snowman, #800)
GAUGE (IN STOCKINETTE STITCH)
» 20 stitches and 30 rows make a 4-inch square
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
» 14 inches by 2¼ inches
SKILLS & METHODS
» Intarsia
» Stockinette stitch
This is a quick knit, but taking some extra time for prepping and finishing is well worth the effort. The choker is knit horizontally, even though this may seem counterintuitive. Having tried to do it both ways, we found this method to be a much cleaner and neater knit than vertically.
Begin by preparing 6 balls or yarn bobbins of black yarn with approximately 6 yards of yarn on each. (This is approximately 5 generous arm’s lengths of yarn for each ball, if you’re not interested in measuring.) Do the same with the white yarn.
Begin your cast-on row as follows: using the double cast-on method (also known as the continental or long-tail method), cast on 8 stitches in white, then 8 stitches in black, and continue in that alternating pattern, using a separate ball of yarn for each set, until you have 9 sets of 8 stitches in alternating black and white. Work in stockinette stitch, interlocking the black and white yarns wherever they meet, as you would for any intarsia knitting. On the fourth row, in the first checkerboard square, which should be white, you will begin to create a buttonhole. This is very simple to do. After knitting 4 of the 8 stitches of this white square, take a new ball of white yarn, and knit the last 4 stitches using the newest white yarn without interlocking the yarns as you normally would with intarsia. Do this for the next 2 rows as well. Then, on row 7, close off the buttonhole by using only 1 white ball for that square again. Continue until 11 rows have been worked. You will just have finished purling that row.
At this point, transfer all 72 stitches from 1 needle to another, so that you can purl a row again without getting out of the stockinette stitch pattern. The checkerboard effect of the design now comes to play. Wherever there was a white square, you will begin a black one and vice versa. The simplest way to achieve this without too much fuss is to take a new black ball of yarn and begin purling. When you reach the second square, which is now to be white, you will conveniently have the white yarn from the previous purled row ready to use via the intarsia method.
This time around, you will begin to make your second buttonhole on the fifth row of the first checkerboard square, which should be black this time. The reason you do this on the fifth row of knitting instead of the fourth is that the original cast-on row needs to be taken into consideration. The buttonhole is done the same way as last time; simply use a new ball of black yarn, and then on the eighth row, close off the buttonhole by using 1 ball of black again.
The last complicated bit comes during the bind-off. After 10 rows are worked, you will bind off on the purl row. Begin binding off in purling as you usually would, but remember to change to the next color of yarn 1 stitch before the end of the block. That way, when you bind off the first stitch of a new color block, you will have the correct yarn color on the needle.
After binding off all stitches, take all the necessary time needed to weave in all loose yarn using a darning needle. Be especially careful around the buttonholes, where you will have several dangling threads of yarn.
Finally, rinse the finished choker in a cold water and conditioner bath. Dry the choker carefully by rolling it in a towel, and block the piece to dry perfectly straight. After it is dry, sew on your red buttons. 
