85 BUM PATCH: Pocket Patch Featuring Route 66 Design
89 UNION JACK: A-Line Bum Flap with British Flag Design and Metal Fasteners
91 DETHRONED: Rectangular Bum Flap with Queen’s Crown Design and Metal Fasteners
95 READY STEADY GO: Miniskirt with Argyle Design and Flounce
bumnineteen-seventies punk rockers customized their denim and leather jackets by cutting off the sleeves and adding patches of their favorite bands and slogans. reminiscent of those “kutten,” our bum patch adds flair to your favorite jeans or pants. we chose the historic american roadway, but we hope that this project inspires you to design your own custom bum patches!
MATERIALS
» Size 5 needles, or size required to get correct gauge
» Row counter, optional
» Size 0 crochet hook
» Darning needle
» 1 skein white worsted-weight wool yarn (Cascade 220, 100% Peruvian Highland wool, White, #8505)
» 1 skein black worsted-weight wool yarn (Cascade 220, 100% Peruvian Highland wool, Black, #8555)
GAUGE (IN STOCKINETTE STITCH)
» 24 stitches and 32 rows make a 4-inch square
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
» Approximately 6 inches by 6 inches
SKILLS & METHODS
» Crochet (single)
» Fair Isle knitting
» Stockinette stitch
We measured the back pockets of several pairs of jeans to come up with the shape and measurements for this patch. It should fit most. Work this piece in stockinette stitch, following the Route 66 graph, as we did, because decreases tend to look neater than increases. After you have knit the piece, we suggest finishing it off with a single crochet trim all around the perimeter for a defining edge.
Cast on 35 stitches in white yarn. Begin following the Route 66 graph. On row 2, purl 17 stitches in white, add black and purl 1 stitch, carry the white yarn across the back of the knitting, and purl 17 stitches. Continue following the graph. Note: There will be 3 sets of decreases between rows 3 and 40. Purl together the second and third stitches as well the second- and third-to-last stitches on rows 10, 20, and 30; 29 stitches remain. Follow the graph to the end of row 40.
To create the triangular point of the patch, work rows 41 through 48 in stockinette stitch while binding off the first 5 stitches of rows 41, 42, and 43. On the next row, bind off the first 6 stitches. You should have 8 stitches remaining. Knit 2 together 4 times across the next row until 4 stitches remain. Purl the next row. Finally, knit 2 together twice and bind off.
For a defining border, single crochet black yarn into every other stitch around the perimeter of the piece. Crochet 3 times into each of the 4 corners and the bottom point to create sharp corners. Repeat if you would like to create another patch for the second back pocket of your jeans or pants.
To finish, use your darning needle to weave all loose ends into the back of the knitting. Agitate the piece in alternating baths of cold water and hot water, with conditioner, 3 times. Wring out excess water, and roll in a towel. Pin flat to dry overnight. Press with a hot iron. Finally, sew the patch(es) onto the back pocket(s) of your favorite pair of jeans or pants. Don’t worry if the patch doesn’t fit the pocket exactly. Simply line up the edges of the pocket with the edges of the patch and sew. Throw the jeans into the washing machine for one hot wash cycle, and the patch will felt, shrinking slightly to fit. 
all hail british fashion designer vivienne westwood. her ingenious designs, created for the sex pistols and the new york dolls, inspired our knit version of the bum flap, which she used often in her bondage suits. the bold monochromatic union-jack design pays homage to the origin of the style. decorate as you like, with hardware, safety pins, or grommets.
MATERIALS
» Size 10½ needles, or size required to get correct gauge
» Yarn bobbins, optional
» Row counter, optional
» 3 hook fasteners or safety pins
» 1 skein black bulky-weight wool yarn (Brown Sheep Co., Lamb’s Pride Bulky, 85% wool, 15% mohair, Onyx, M05)
» 1 skein charcoal bulky-weight wool yarn (Brown Sheep Co., Lamb’s Pride Bulky, 85% wool, 15% mohair, Charcoal Heather, M04)
» 1 skein light gray bulky-weight wool yarn (Brown Sheep Co., Lamb’s Pride Bulky, 85% wool, 15% mohair, Silver Sliver, M130)
GAUGE (IN STOCKINETTE STITCH)
» 12 stitches and 20 rows make a 4-inch square
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
» 11 inches across top, 16¼ inches across bottom, and 9½ inches vertically
SKILLS & METHODS
» Intarsia
» Stockinette stitch
This pattern is knit from the bottom of the flap up, mainly because decreasing stitches is easier and looks neater. Cast on 54 stitches in black yarn. Knit 1 row in black. This plus your cast on row counts as the first 2 rows as shown on the Union Jack intarsia graph. Continue the design in stockinette, introducing the various balls of yarn corresponding to the colors on the graph. Your 6 sets of decreases will be on rows 10, 17, 24, 31, 38, and 45. In other words, knit 2 together at the beginning and end of these decrease rows. We prefer to knit together the second and third stitches and the second- and third-to-last stitches in each decrease row. This creates a cleaner finish than knitting together the first and last 2 stitches. You will have 42 stitches remaining in row 48 if you decreased properly. Bind off in black.
Depending on how tightly you knit, your finished project may now look all curled up. This is perfectly normal. Simply wash the bum flap in cold water with conditioner. Lightly wring out the excess water, lay flat on a towel, and roll up in the towel to wring out as much water as possible. At this point you can block the item. We like to use a pillow covered with a towel, but of course you can use a blocking board. Simply place the damp item flat on the pillow, and use quilting pins or safety pins to hold it in place until it’s absolutely dry.
Once dried, attach 3 hook fasteners or safety pins to the top of your flap and then attach to the back of your jeans belt loops. We used metal hook and key rings with chains for ours. 
anglomania continues with this rectangular bum flap. a hallmark of punk style was to take and use conventional items and symbolism out of context. here we used a traditional navy blue military uniform color and combined it with a classic gold queen’s crown. the result is not only stylish but will also keep you warm on those long nights when you’re sitting out for concert tickets.
MATERIALS
» Size 7 needles, or size required to get correct gauge
» Row counter, optional
» Darning needle
» 3 metal key holders
» 1 skein navy blue worsted-weight wool yarn (Cascade 220, 100% Peruvian Highland wool, Navy, #8393)
» 2 skeins gold plied worsted-weight metallic yarn (Filatura Di Crosa’s New Smoking, 65% viscose, 35% polyester, #1)
GAUGE (IN STOCKINETTE STITCH)
» 20 stitches and 24 rows make a 4-inch square before wetting and blocking
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
» 16 inches by 9 inches before wetting and blocking
SKILLS & METHODS
» Crochet (single)
» Fair Isle knitting
» Stockinette stitch
This item is worked with 1 strand of the navy blue yarn and 2 strands of the metallic gold yarn. Cast on 79 stitches in navy blue yarn. Work 10 rows in stockinette stitch. Please note that the crown graph only shows the 31 center stitches of rows 10 through 35. The 24 stitches on either side of the graph are knit or purled in navy blue yarn. On row 11, begin following the graph by knitting 34 stitches in navy blue yarn, add 2 strands of metallic gold yarn and knit 11 stitches, and then carry the navy blue yarn across the back of the knitting and knit 34 stitches. Follow the graph to the end of row 35, remembering to either knit or purl 24 stitches in navy blue yarn on either side of the graph. Please note that the crosses on either side of the crown at rows 19 through 21 were worked with separate pieces of yarn to prevent puckering in the finished fabric. Work rows 35 to 55 with the navy blue yarn in stockinette stitch. Bind off. Weave the loose ends into the back of the knitting. To even out the stitches, agitate the piece in an alternating bath of hot and cold water, with conditioner, 3 times. Wring out and roll up in a towel to remove excess water. Pin flat to a pillow or blocking board, and let dry overnight. Remove the next day, and sew 1 metal key holder to the top right corner, 1 to the center, and 1 to the top left corner. A great resource for key holders is Toho Shoji N.Y. Be sure to look it up on our Materials page! 
a micro-mini with a twist! we feature a traditional preppy argyle on the front of this feminine creation. so versatile, you can wear it as a tube top too! don’t worry: you can still wear combat boots or creepers with your ensemble.
MATERIALS
» 24-inch size 7 circular needle, or size required to get correct gauge
» Size 7 straight needles
» Row counter, optional
» Stitch holders
» Darning needle
» 2 (3, 3) skeins red worsted-weight yarn (Rowan Cashsoft Aran, 57% extrafine merino, 33% microfiber, 10% cashmere, Poppy, #512)
» 1 skein gray worsted-weight yarn (Rowan Cashsoft Aran, 57% extrafine merino, 33% microfiber, 10% cashmere, Thunder, #518)
» 1 skein black worsted-weight yarn (Rowan Cashsoft Aran, 57% extrafine merino, 33% microfiber, 10% cashmere, Black, #519)
» 1 yard white worsted-weight yarn (Rowan Cashsoft Aran, 57% extrafine merino, 33% microfiber, 10% cashmere, Cream, #500)
» 1 yard of ½-inch-wide elastic for band
GAUGE (IN STOCKINETTE STITCH)
» 17 stitches and 23 rows make a 4-inch square
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS (SIZES MEDIUM AND LARGE ARE GIVEN IN PARENTHESES)
» 25 (29, 33½) inches in circumference by 11 (12, 13) inches long
SKILLS & METHODS
» Intarsia
» Stockinette stitch
This skirt is knit mostly in the round on circular needles, except for the intarsia panel shown on the diamond graph. You will knit from the waist down, paying close attention to the first several rounds, which are important for creating the waistband. Begin by casting on 106 (124, 142) stitches of red on the circular needle using the double cast-on method. Note that using other cast-on methods may result in a narrow casing for the waistband. Place a marker, and join the beginning and end of the round, making sure that the cast-on stitches are not twisted. Knit 3 rounds, then purl 1 round. The ridge created by the purl round on the right side will allow you to fold the waistband over so that you can sew in the elastic band later.
Continue knitting the skirt in the round for another 12 (15, 18) rounds, and then prepare to work the argyle panel in flat knitting by transferring the first 43 stitches onto a straight needle and dividing the gray yarn into 2 separate balls. Work the intarsia graph panel in the front center of the skirt on these 43 stitches. Keep the remaining 63 (81, 99) stitches on the circular needles, or if you are not comfortable working that way, transfer them onto a large stitch holder. When you are finished with the argyles as graphed, place the argyle panel on stitch holders. Work the other 63 (81, 99) stitches flat in stockinette stitch until this section measures the same length as the front panel, then place all of the stitches on the circular needle and begin working in the round again. Knit every round (stockinette stitch) for another 12 (15, 18) rows, until the piece measures 9 (10, 11) inches from the purled ridge.
At this point, you will create the flounce of the skirt. This is done by working in the round in the following manner. Knit 1, yarn over all around, 212 (248, 284) stitches. On the next round, purl as follows: purl into each stitch, and purl twice into each yarn over, by purling into the front and back of the loop. At the end of this round you will have 318 (372, 426) stitches. Knit the next 12 rounds (stockinette stitch), and bind off.
With a darning needle and red yarn, use mattress stitch to seam up the 2 slits at either side of the argyle pattern. Then, using the white yarn and the darning needle, stitch 2 diamond outlines between the 3 intarsia argyles. Finally, cut the elastic to 26 (30, 32½) inches or to 1 inch more than the desired length, and join the ends with a 1-inch overlap, being careful not to twist. Place it on the wrong side of the skirt fabric, and fold the waistband over it to the inside, so that the purl round is now the top edge of the skirt. Sew the waistband down with red yarn all around the elastic band, and your skirt is finished! If the flounce of the skirt curls up, wet the knitted fabric, gently wring it out, and lay it flat on a towel to dry. 
