SERVES 4 TO 6
In Spanish, the mighty swordfish is called by a variety of names. The most common is pez espada (pez means “fish” and espada “sword”), although emperador (emperor) is perhaps more fitting for this long, magnificent bluish-black fish with silver flanks that can measure up to 15 feet/4.5 m in length and top 550 pounds/250 kg. Like tuna, this winter favorite is often best when prepared simply—on the grill and slightly undercooked to keep the rather lean meat from drying out. (Do not cut the steaks too thin.)
A classic companion in the south to marinated and grilled swordfish is this salad of diced vegetables, whose name changes from place to place in Andalucía even more frequently than swordfish. In Cádiz they call it piriñaca, for instance, but elsewhere you find it (with subtle differences in the salads) referred to as pipirrana, picadillo, or almorraque.
1. Make the piriñaca: In a salad bowl, combine the diced vegetables and season with salt. Drizzle over the olive oil and vinegar and toss. Refrigerate to chill for about 1 hour and allow the flavors to meld.
2. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, blend the garlic, parsley, and olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Add the swordfish and turn to coat. Cover with plastic wrap, refrigerate, and marinate for about 1 hour, turning occasionally.
3. Preheat a grill pan, griddle pan, or large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat and lightly oil. Lay on the fish steaks and sear, turning once, 2 to 3 minutes on each side, leaving the centers still moist and just warm.
4. Divide the swordfish among plates. Toss the piriñaca and place a generous spoonful beside the fish before serving.