PAN-FRIED TROUT WITH THYME AND WALNUTS

TRUCHAS CON TOMILLO Y NUECES

SERVES 4

In Spain, rivers have both rainbow trout, called trucha arcoíris, and brown trout, which is the native variety and known as trucha común (common trout). These are golden-hued with black and red spots that the Spanish call lunares (freckles), though in a rather poetic sense. (The word derives from luna, “moon.”) Navarra, Guadalajara, and the Sierra Nevada in Andalucía each have well-known streams to fish for trout. I have adapted this recipe from Antonio Díaz Lafuente’s Fogones granadinos (Granada Stoves).

     While I call for butterfly-filleting the trout, you can prepare the recipe using pan-fried whole fish (fry for about 4 minutes on each side). For larger trout, use fillets.

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1. Butterfly fillet the trout. Wash the insides of the cavities. Remove the heads, cutting at an angle through the backbone. Working from the inside of each cavity, run the tip of a sharp knife along both sides of the backbone, cutting through the ribs (but not the skin); gently pull out the backbone, leaving the two fillets attached. Using the tip of the knife and your fingers, remove the rib bones. Wash and pat dry with paper towels. Lightly season with salt.

2. In a large skillet or griddle pan that can comfortably hold the fish (if you don’t have anything large enough, divide the ingredients and prepare in two batches), heat the olive oil over medium-high heat and lay the trout opened flat, skin-side down. Sprinkle over the walnuts, garlic, thyme, and parsley. Cook for 4 minutes and then carefully turn them over with a wide spatula and a wooden spoon without breaking the fillets. Cook for 2 minutes more, or until opaque throughout.

3. Transfer to plates, skin-side down, lightly dash with vinegar, and serve immediately with the remaining warm walnuts from the pan scattered over top.