The traditional function of conservas (preserves) is to prolong the life of seasonal ingredients, from the abundance of summer fruits and tomatoes to pork from pigs slaughtered during the cold weather. In Spain, this has been done with salt, smoke, alcohol, vinegar, and olive oil. Seafood and vegetables, especially, benefitted greatly from mid–nineteenth century advances in canning. Over the years, the practicalities of these ancient traditions graduated into what can only be called art forms in latas (tins).
Numerous companies continue to follow traditional methods. It begins with buying the finest raw materials available in the markets. As Nely Concheiro, the proprietor of one such company—the exquisite Conservas Ramón Peña in Cambados, Galicia—bluntly put it to me: “The best goes in the tin.” She was referring to the goods in the numerous lonjas (wholesale seafood auction markets) that dot the Galician coastline, but could have been referring to the entire philosophy of the vast industry of conservas processed by artisanal methods.
Conservas like those from her company are the blue chip products of the Spanish seas and fields. Work is detailed and meticulous, with shortcuts never taken, especially when it comes to flavors. Whereas inexpensive versions might use a chemical essence for flavor, at places like this, Nely emphasized, “everything is natural.” The day I visited Conservas Ramón Peña (it is more workshop than factory), a woman was peeling and adding garlic cloves to an escabeche marinade for mussels. “Como hago yo en casa,” Nely said. (Just as I do at home.) Another dozen women sat along a high bench patiently trimming the last strands of beard from shucked mussels with tiny scissors. Once the women hand-packed the mussels into tins, a bay leaf would be delicately laid into each one before being sealed.
There are many fine producers that pay such attention to details. Here is a list of the most common types of latas, with a few highly recommended brands. Prices can be astronomical. But the splurge is usually worth it. Just open the tin (or jar) and enjoy the best of Spain’s countryside and coastline.
Anchovy fillets from the Cantabrian Sea (anchoas de Mar Cantábrico): Lolín, Angelachu, La Brújula, Don Bocarte
Anchovy fillets from the Mediterranean (anchoas de l’Escala): Anxoves de l’Escala
Artichoke hearts (corazones de alcachofa): Rosara, Leyenda, La Catederal de Navarra
“Baby” fava or broad beans in extra-virgin olive oil (habitas baby en aceite de oliva virgen extra): Viuda de Cayo, Ferret, La Catederal de Navarra
Bonito del norte tuna (bonito del norte): Acromar, Angelachu, Ortiz, Consorcio
Chestnuts in syrup (castañas en almíbar): Moncloa de San Lázaro, Prada a Tope
Clams in natural brine (almejas al natural): Los Peperetes, Dardo, Paco LaFuente
Cockles in natural brine (berberechos al natural): Paco Lafuente, Pay-Pay, Dardo, Ramón Peña
Garbanzo beans (garbanzos): Rosara, Vitra, El Navarrico
Mussels in escabeche marinade (mejillones en escabeche): Dardo, Ramón Peña, Consorcio
Partridge in escabeche marinade (perdiz en escabeche): La Ponderosa de Cuenca, Lahoz
Razor clams in natural brine (navajas al natural): La Brújula, Los Peperetes
Roasted piquillo peppers (pimientos del piquillo): El Navarrico, La Catederal de Navarra
Small sardines in escabeche marinade (sardinillas en escabeche): El Porrón
Small sardines in extra-virgin olive oil (sardinillas en aceite de oliva virgen extra): Real Conservera Española, Ramón Franco
Small squid in their own ink (chipirones en su tinta): La Brújula, Los Peperetes
White asparagus in natural brine (espárragos blancos): El Navarrico, La Catederal de Navarra
