SERVES 4
These long, meaty clams, shaped like old-fashioned straight razors (navajas) are, for me, Spain’s preeminent shellfish. There are two closely related varieties found in the markets—the larger, meatier ones from the Atlantic coast (namely from Galicia) that measure about 6 inches/15 cm long, and the smaller, often sweeter-tasting ones from the Ebro Delta that are just 3 to 4 inches/7.5 to 10 cm long. Both are found buried in sand vertically, and both are superb tasting, with a fine texture. Keep them rubber-banded snugly together until ready to grill.
Grilling navajas is the most typical and by far the best way to prepare them. It’s simple. Put them on the hot pan, and when the shell opens, turn them meat-side down and grill until golden and tender. Prepared like this, they make a finger-licking dish. Or rather, shell-licking. Lick the shell, too, as that is where the real flavors concentrate.
1. Preheat a grill pan, griddle pan, or large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat, lightly oil, and scatter with salt flakes. Without crowding the pan, lay on the clams. Once the shells open, flip them over so that the meat is against the pan. Gently press down on the back of the shells. Cook until the meat is golden and still tender, 3 to 5 minutes, depending on the size of the razor clams.
2. Transfer to a platter, generously drizzle with oil, and scatter some parsley over the top. Garnish with lemon wedges and serve immediately.