SERVES 4 TO 6
Most Spanish clam preparations are pretty straightforward, and cooked so that the shellfish don’t lose their delicate flavors. Steaming them open in a pot with some white wine is common across Spain, with the differences mostly in the type of wine. In Galicia, cooks reach for their minerally, fruity Albariño (see page 204), while in the Basque Country they might tip in some young Txakoli. In Andalucía, they add a chorro (shot) of one of the various dry sherries produced around Jerez.
My favorite way to prepare clams is using an aged sherry like amontillado, with its rich hazelnut and, at times, tobacco notes, or else oloroso. Deep amber-toned and highly aromatic—the name means “scented”—oloroso carries hints of toasted nuts, dried fruits, even raisins. If you don’t have either of these, use a trick that I learned from one wine store owner who was loath to sell me such an elegant, unique wine for cooking: Use a dry white wine and some drops of brandy to give it some depth of color and flavor. Try to find large, meaty clams that will absorb the sherry’s perfume.
1. Purge the clams of any sand by soaking in salty water following the directions on page 341. Discard any clams with broken shells.
2. In a large pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat and add the garlic. Cook until fragrant and just golden, about 1 minute. Do not let it burn. Add the sherry, stir in the flour, and bring to a boil. Boil for 2 minutes to burn off the alcohol, and then add the clams. Cover and cook, stirring and shaking the pan, until the clams have opened, about 5 minutes. Discard any clams that did not open.
3. Transfer the clams and sauce to a deep serving platter, sprinkle with the parsley, and serve immediately.