SERVES 4
Berberechos are fat, almost heart-shaped clams about 1 or 1½> inches/3 or 4 cm across with some two dozen distinct, deeply marked ridges in the shell. The best come from the rías (inlets) of Galicia, specifically around Muros and Noia. Their season begins in autumn and winds down in March or so, as the weather warms. They are gathered by women known as mariscadoras who scour the beaches with rakes. Although most commonly preserved in tins in natural brine, they are at their plumpest and sweetest when steamed and eaten with a few drops of lemon. That is all they need—and all they ever get.
1. If needed, purge the cockles of any sand by soaking in salty water following the directions on page 341. Discard any cockles with broken shells.
2. In a large pot, add 3 tablespoons water, the cockles, bay leaf, and a pinch of salt and snugly cover the pot with a lid. Over high heat, bring the water to a boil and steam the cockles, shaking the pot from time to time, until they have opened, 2 to 3 minutes. Discard any cockles that did not open.
3. Transfer to a serving bowl with a slotted spoon. Serve immediately with the lemon wedges to squeeze over the tops.