SERVES 4
My wife’s earliest memories of her grandmother’s kitchen in Lleida, on the flat, fruit-rich plain of western Catalunya, are of the pantry behind it. Among the preserves, canned fruits, and olives that lined the tall shelves were jars of samfaina, a stewed mélange of onions, tomatoes, and eggplant. She garnished grilled meats with it, spooned it over pig’s feet, and added it to the pot as a sauce for braising chicken, rabbit, and, during Lent, salt cod. This recipe makes a generous amount of samfaina; enough, if you are lucky, for leftovers to eat at room temperature as a thick relish. We spread it over pieces of toasted bread, just as my wife remembers her grandmother doing.
1. Rinse and stem the eggplant, but do not peel. Cut it into ½>-inch/1.25-cm cubes. Place them in a colander, salt liberally, and let them sweat away some of their bitterness for 1 hour. Rinse well under running water and pat dry with paper towels. Gently squeeze some moisture from the eggplant and pat dry again.
2. In a cazuela, heavy casserole, large sauté pan, or deep skillet, heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until soft and translucent, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the bell peppers and cook about 8 minutes, stirring frequently, and then add the eggplant. Cook for 5 minutes and add the tomatoes. Cook until the vegetables are pasty and soft, about 15 minutes. Add a touch of water if needed to keep it from drying out.
3. Meanwhile, in a large skillet or sauté pan, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat. Season the chicken with salt and pepper and then lightly dredge in flour. Cook until golden, turning as needed, about 8 minutes.
4. When the samfaina is ready, transfer the chicken to the cazuela and turn to coat. Add 1 cup/240 ml water, partly cover, and cook over low heat for about 50 minutes, until the chicken is very tender but not falling off the bone.
5. To serve, divide the chicken among plates and generously cover with the samfaina.