SERVES 2 TO 4
Sitting protectively encircled on three sides by the Río Tajo (Tagus River), Toledo—one-time capital of the country, immortalized by El Greco, its tastes shaped by a strong Moorish, Jewish, and Christian heritage—is probably best known to the epicure for its fabulous marzipan. But Toledo is also surrounded by the finest partridge hunting (and eating) in Europe.
The emblematic way to prepare Spain’s most sought-after game bird is Toledo style, that is, slowly stewed in white wine, olive oil, vinegar, herbs, and plenty of onions. The partridge should take about an hour, but I have cooked ones fresh from the finca (first laboriously plucking and then picking out buckshot with the tip of a knife) for twice that long.
1. Wash and dry the birds. Singe off any remaining hairs or feathers over an open flame. Wipe clean with a damp cloth. Clean the cavities while leaving the birds whole. Truss the legs with cotton kitchen string to help them keep their shape and cook evenly. Generously season with salt and pepper.
2. In a large, deep skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the partridge and brown, turning as needed, about 5 minutes. Add the onions and cook until they begin to soften and turn pale, about 5 minutes. Pour in the wine, vinegar, and 2 cups/480 ml water. Tie the parsley, thyme, rosemary, and bay leaves together with cotton kitchen string and add. Partly cover the pan and simmer, swirling the pan from time to time, for 45 minutes to 1 hour. The partridge are done when the meat begins to come away from the bone and a leg jiggles in the socket. Discard the herb wrap.
3. Transfer the partridge to a cutting board. Using kitchen shears, cut the birds in half lengthwise through the breast and the backbone. Lay cut-side down on a plate and cover with the onions and sauce. Serve hot.