SERVES 4
Rich, silky cremas—literally “creams”—are a staple on the Spanish table, served as a first course or sometimes for a light dinner. Look for artichokes heavy for their size, with tightly packed leaves (opened leaves are a sign of being overripe), but not excessively hard. To check freshness, hold one to your ear and squeeze it—if you hear a slight crunch, then the artichoke is fresh. The soup is best with a textured creaminess—though without fibers. Purée it extremely well until it has a fine smoothness.
1. Fill a large bowl with cool water. Cut the lemon into wedges, squeeze into the water, and then drop them into the bowl. Trim the artichokes following the directions on page 339, making sure the tough outer leaves have been stripped away. Leave the trimmed artichokes in the lemon water to keep from darkening until ready to use.
2. In a heavy soup pot, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the leeks and cook until they are soft and translucent but not browned, about 10 minutes.
3. Drain the artichokes, pat dry with paper towels, and add them to the pot. Cover the pot and cook, stirring frequently, until they are tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Pour in the stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, for 15 to 20 minutes or until the artichokes are extremely tender.
4. Remove the pot from the heat and let cool for 5 minutes, stirring from time to time. Check that the leaves are not still tough or fibrous; if so, either trim and discard the fibrous bits or cover the pot and cook for another 5 minutes or so.
5. Working in batches as needed, purée the pot contents in a food processor or blender until creamy smooth. Or, purée in the pot itself, using an immersion hand blender.
6. Return the puréed soup to the pot, stir in the milk and nutmeg, and season with salt. Over low heat and stirring frequently, slowly heat thoroughly without letting it reach a boil, about 10 minutes.
7. Ladle the soup into bowls, generously grind black pepper over the top, and serve hot.