SERVES 4
Queso Picón Bejes-Tresviso from Cantabria is a compact, ivory-fleshed, blue-veined cheese. While its persistent and bold flavors are highly appreciated on their own, the cheese makes an excellent base for creamy sauces. Around northern Spain, you find different local blue cheeses used the same way to the same stunning effect—in Galicia along the central Río Miño with queixo do Cebreiro, for instance, or in Asturias with queso de Cabrales or queso de Valdeón in León. These same regions also produce excellent beef. An older animal, with a brilliant-to-slightly dark-red tone and deeper flavors, is perfect to use with this bold sauce.
1. In a saucepan, warm the cheese and brandy together over low heat, stirring until melted and creamy, about 3 minutes. Add the cream and season with pepper. Stir for a few seconds over low heat until combined. Remove the pan from the heat. It will thicken as it begins to cool.
2. Preheat a grill pan, griddle pan, or large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat and lightly oil. Generously season the steaks with salt flakes and lay them in the pan, grilling as desired, turning only as needed with tongs.
3. Transfer the steaks to a platter. Rewhisk the sauce and spoon about half over the steaks. Serve them immediately with the remaining sauce in a bowl to add as desired.